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Showing results for tags '12v'.
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12v Half Straights (with geometry possibilities)
Unfinished_Projects posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Lego 12v Half Straights With my current addiction to old 12v trains I found myself looking to create more complex layouts. One piece I hadn't used yet was the (1) crossover piece in my collection. Using Bluebrick it became apparent that using only one crossing sometimes results in a half track offset, so I decided to cut 3 of my worst straight tracks in half. Note that I am not the first person to do this, but I have not found any documentation of it being done with blue era track, or many examples of geometry possibilities. To cut the conductors I used a handheld rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to get through the metal rails, and a thin hacksaw to go through the plastic. As you can see, I severely cracked one of my half straights by clamping it too hard in the vise. Oops! Cutting the rails is much easier, I simply marked the center and used the hacksaw to make the cut. As you might know, blue era conductive rails are slightly different than grey era rails. One of the changes between blue and grey era was the addition of mid rail sleepers in the grey era. While it seems like you can simply attach a 2x8 plate to the center of a blue era rail, there is actually a couple plastic supports (seen below in rendering) blocking where the studs would go. When creating a half straight out of blue era conductors, these supports much be removed. I used a handheld rotary tool with a sanding bit to carefully carve them away. I recreated the electrical connection tabs using rolled up aluminum foil. I'm sure I'll have to replace these whenever I change my layout, but its really not too difficult and requires very little aluminum foil. This is the finished product! Works perfectly! Here are some interesting geometry possibilities that are opened up with half straights on hand: *Bluebrick does not have a 12v half straight, so I used a 9v one in its place* Thanks for looking! If anyone else uses custom cut half straights (of any track type), feel free to post pictures of interesting layout possibilities! Unfinished_Projects -
Last night I completed a refurbishment of a rather poorly 12v train motor. The contacts had worn giving intermittent working and the bushes were squealing like a pig so it was time to open up the case... First off made a jig to hold everything secure... I used my scalpel to cut into the case as shown on the red lines here... Then flipped the jig over and pushed down on the axles which released the two halves of the case leaving this in the jig... And the motor part in all its grotty glory.... Took the metal blocks out and started stripping down the axles and motor - +30 years of grime.... Also noticed that a wiring disc had become unsoldered - another cause of the rough running... The contacts were removed - you can see how uneven the wear has been... Got two bb53's from Bricklink specifically for their pickups... And split them open... The bb53 contacts have "nipples" on them which the motor contacts do not so these were filed flat... After that everything was cleaned with methylated spirits , the wiring plate resoldered, greased and reassembled.... Then glued and clamped.. And then after an hour taken for a test run.... https://i.imgur.com/CCPQZyD.mp4 I think the patient will live !!! Joff
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So last week I needed to open up a 12v 80's era signal unit as the green LED was starting to fail and I wanted to see if I could repair the unit, as second hand ones are close to £20 delivered to me. First job, break out the scalpel and unseal the unit... This gives us the components - front , back and circuit board... The red LED was working fine... The green one not so... It's a simple circuit design with 2 LED's and one resistor to drop the voltage to 2.2v Sourced some replacement LED's from eBay which will work around the 2.2v area... And then proceeded to unsolder the old green LED and replace with the new one.. Then time for a test.... All was good so the unit was resealed and ready for further duty. I've never seen the insides of one of these units or even any pictures on the web, so here you go.. Jonathan
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Resurrection of some old 12v tracks (powering new trains)
Unfinished_Projects posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hello, I'm creating this write-up to share my experience buying and operating a set of old 12v track in the US. I had been wanting some 12v track and motors since I was in middle school (and I'm in college right now, so yes my tastes in Lego have always been old and expensive haha) but hadn't found the right lot until about a week ago. I managed to score the following lot on ebay for a good price: It is a decent amount of stuff, but some key things are missing: motor (the blue one in picture is 4.5v and doesn't work), transformer, and the piece for connecting to the track. My goal was to have an operating train for as cheaply as possible. Hopefully these ideas can help someone else out who wants to make use of older track without spending a fortune. FOR PURISTS: I handled all of these missing components in an unorthodox way that includes modification of vintage parts, so consider yourself warned Motor: Instead of buying original 12v motors, which are only available for crazy amounts of money on bricklink, I chose to use @bricks n bolts method of picking up track power and using it to drive PF motors (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/63535-mod-7745-to-use-the-pf-motor-still-on-12v-track/ I know it was a little while ago, but thank you @bricks n bolts for sharing! ) The process of cutting down the pins was pretty straightforward. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to make the initial cut and a sanding wheel to finish things up. If anyone attempts to do this, try to keep the pin cool, as I melted the plastic a bit on one of my pick-ups. I also ended up cutting off the curved section of one pick-up, to accommodate for the magnet assembly. Connecting to track: To connect to the track, I simply soldered some wire to the little tabs on the bottom of the rail. The correct part for connecting to these blue rails isn't that expensive on bricklink...if you don't factor in overseas shipping. Transformer: Since I live in the US, using an original transformer would require a converter (I had no luck finding the 110v version on bricklink or ebay). I originally thought of using a model train transformer of some kind, but wasn't sure so I asked here on the train tech. @dr_spock suggested a cheap DC motor controller and a generic 12v DC wall adapter (Thanks! ). This ended up working perfectly, and was quite cheap. Only downside is no reverse, but I'm ok with that for how much I spent. Final Result: With everything together I swapped out one of the motors on my Powered Boxcar (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/169681-moc-powered-boxcar-power-functions/) with the completed pick-up bogie and turned on the speed controller. It worked perfectly! I now have a functioning 12v loop that powers my newer trains! I do however have to watch out that I don't over-power the PF stuff. I suppose I could have used a 9v power adapter, but I'm leaving room for a 7740 that I hope will join my collection if I find a good deal ^These last 2 are videos, you just have to click on them There's a few more pictures of this project here if interested: https://flic.kr/s/aHskR5KZX3 Thanks for looking! Unfinished_Projects -
12v blue era remote points voltage and disassembly?
Unfinished_Projects posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hello, I bought some blue era remote points in rough shape, that need to be opened and repaired. Has anyone attempted this before? Is there any tips or tricks I should know about? Also, I do not own an original transformer, so I will be using a generic power supply for these. Will 12v DC work, or do I need higher voltage? Thanks, Unfinished_Projects -
Hello, I have 4.5v train motor (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb07pb01&name=Electric, Motor 4.5V Type A 12 x 4 x 4 with 4.5V stamped on front&category=[Electric, Motor]#T=C) that needs wheels. I have access to a 3D printer and 3D modeling software/knowledge. My question is, does anyone have dimensions for "wheel2a" ?(https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=wheel2a&name=Train Wheel Spoked for Motor&category=[Wheel]#T=C) I would like to try to make something that goes into this motor and gives it a technic axle, or just recreate the wheel (either all plastic, or using purchased metal rod). Unfinished_Projects
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Hi everyone, I've been mainly lurking and commenting occasionally these last couple of years because I've been busy building my latest layout, and rather than post WIP pictures as it went along I've been taking stills to put together into a time lapse video of the whole build. Here's a photo of the layout as it stands. Whole Layout (DSC09786) by andyglascott, on Flickr The video is on Youtube. Building started in December 2016 and for the first 8 months or so was fairly quick, then I got to the point of relying on monthly Bricklink orders. There is still a bit of work to do, particularly on the station, which as you can see is in a corner.... WIP Station (DSC09747) by andyglascott, on Flickr As well as waiting for monthly Bricklink orders, progress has also slowed as the birth of our first approaches next month, so I figured even though things aren't finished, if I don't post this now it might take a while to get to a "finished" stage! The top level of the layout is 9v, with just 2 trains on it, the bottom is 12v with 7 trains, 3 of which can run at any time (there are three 12v loops on the bottom). Enjoy. Andy
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Hey guys, Long time no see! :-) I came back to Eurobrick with a new quiz: What train set from 80s misses (train) wheel(s) in its inventory? (can be as regular or alternate) Let''s restrict answer to 7710, 7715,....7760, 7810, 7813, ...,7821 The missing wheel already exists in the catalog of bricklink but it is not added to one particular set yet. You can check bricklink for the inventory of these sets, but other sources are ok too.
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[MOC] Dual-voltage (9V-12V) GySEV Vectron locomotive
Ashi Valkoinen posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hello all, I'd like to introduce my latest MOC, the Siemens Vectron locomotive of GySEV/ROeEE railway company. These locomotive appeared only months ago on Hungarian rails, the Austrian-Hungarian railway company, GySEV/ROeEE bought 9 of these with different equipment. Some of them are dual-voltage and run under 25kV, 50Hz (Hungary) and 15kV, 16.7Hz (Austria), some of them are capable to work with DC supply as well, and 2 of them with the two different AC-supply will get diesel units inside to ensure the locos can move on industrial tracks not electrified at all. When these locomotives started to appear I designed it in LDD, there was a little competition between Hungarian LEGO train fans with the design. I was the first who finished the virtual build and I loved it, so I decided to build it as soon as possible. This was the first versions, but only AC-DC locomotives have 4 pantographs, the AC-only types have only two of them. I'm quite proud of the angular green tile in the side pattern and also the angled front needed a little thinking around. I started to love the old hing plates with two and three teeth - these teeth do NOT brake the line of the hinge plate and the whole LEGO part fit into less space and easier to build other things on the top of these bricks. The slots for lights are also capable of to be lit by LEGO LED lights - another good invention introduced first in my Stadler FLIRTs to use the flexible exoforce tubes which are capable of bringing the light of PF LEDs where I need that light. You may ask why is that M-motor hanging around - it has a great importance in this model! As the real thing with two different AC-supply, my Vectron works under two different LEGO-voltages - it is compatible with 9V track and 12V track as well! The M-motor switches a polarity switch brick, which cuts off 12V pickups from 9V train motor's contacts - when the locomotive runs in 9V mode, the pickups for 12V track could touch the same rail when going through 9V points, and the loco could short circuit herself! When the loco runs in 12V mode, the polarity switch is ON, and the 9V train motors are supplied from 12V track. At the other end of the locomotive there is an another M-motor - it cuts off the 9V train motor from the output of the controlling SBrick - it won't be a wise idea to power that SBrick both from battery box and both from the 9V track, through its output... Look at the next image, how it works: So if the locomotive reaches the end of electrified track (12V or 9V), it still can carry her train forward - it can run on internal battery box as well. And finally, yes, these stuff did fit into the model: (Since the lower light on each side serves as red and white light on the real thing and upper slot serves for long distance lights at night I put white lights on the upper, red lights on the lower slots.) Also some other images and further details can be found in Hispabrick Magazine #29: http://www.hispabrickmagazine.com/sites/default/files/Descargas/HBM029_ENG.pdf Comments and critics welcome! Some other photos: -
MOD - 12 volt wheels with axle hole for Power Functions motor
Paperinik77pk posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hi all, since 7777 book came out, I've always wanted to integrate Trains and Technic worlds. Back in the 80's the problem was the complete lack of train wheels with a Technic axle hole. It was solved with RC trains a lot of years later. Therefore, I can convert a 9v train to PF without too many problems (aesthetically speaking). But for 12V trains it is different. Wheels are made in a specific way, they have the hole for connecting rods, they're more "fat" than RC/PF wheels. Frankly, I do not like 12V trains converted to 9V/PF standard bogies. But I like the PF motor, its speed, the possibility to increase speed gradually...and the fact it keeps the central hole for third wheel. So, in these years I repaired a lot of 12V motors...and some were really in bad shape. Look at the right wheel, it is completely destroyed inside. So I decided to try to implement my solution to connect standard, intact 12V wheels to technic axleholes (which I do not list here, since it was not satisfying). First, I got a standard Technic bush, and cut it a bit. Then I put it inside the damaged wheel hole. It fits fine, but needs to be glued. Once glued, it is time for some testing. The 6-long axle goes right in - but the red ring coming out from the wheel is too thick. So I prepared another wheel (gray bush). This time I cut the bush a bit shorter and fits right. The 5.5 axle is perfect , so I'll need to cut two 6-long axles to the right lenght. And this is the result - this is my 7740 no°3, totally converted to PF. It works fine, but as you all can imagine, it is all made by hand and bushes are not machinery-centered. Therefore the locomotive is not stable as I would like. For the moment, better than nothing! -
So far, only ONE AFOL has given me the right answer :-) Hi everybody, This one is a real challenge! After the quiz N2 that we had as warm-up, here we are with a harder quiz. I am really curious to know if anybody knows or can find the answer of this one. I would consider a prize for the winner(s). If you are sure you know the answer, please "DO NOT SPOIL", but only pm me. But if you have any guess together with some reasons for your guess, you are very welcome to comment under this post so that we can discuss about it and who knows, maybe we get multiple responses. Here is the question: WHICH INSTRUCTIONS have MORE THAN ONE VERSION? The sets in question are 7710, 7715, 7720, 7722, 7725, 7727, 7730, 7735, 7740, 7745, 7750, 7755, 7760. I believe you cannot find the answer by googling (I couldn't). Good luck :-)
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I have seen two variations of instructions 7860: 1) For the second release 1982-87, the code of instruction is 113483 ©1981. In the instructions, we can see this variation of "Straight Conducting Rail with Rail Interruption" 3242apb01: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3242apb01&idColor=9#T=S&C=9&O={"color":9,"iconly":0} 2) For the third release 1988-94, it is 120622 ©1981 in which we can see this variation of "Straight Conducting Rail with Rail Interruption" 3242bpb01: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3242bpb01#T=S&C=9&O={"color":9,"iconly":0} 3) What about the first release 1980-81? Is there any instructions for it (do you have it?) in which we can see "Straight Conducting Rail with Rail Interruption" 3242a: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3242a&idColor=9
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Request for technical advice: 4.5V battery box, 12V conducting rail
DameVeraLynn posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Having spent the last few days restoring some of my childhood Lego trains, I've run into a couple of problems which I hope the experts on here may be able to help me with! 1. 4.5V battery box (BL Item No: x488c02) This particular box comes from 7722 and was originally used to power a 4.5V train motor. The motor still works (I have tested it by connecting it to the 12V transformer with the control knob inverted) but it fails to run when connected to the battery box (filled with three brand-new rechargeable C batteries). Does anyone have any troubleshooting advice for these battery boxes? Can you suggest what steps I could take to try and get it working again? Any thoughts on the best substance to use to clean the contacts? 2. 12V conducting rail (looks like BL Item No: 2731b) This rail should transfer power to the track when connected to the 12V transformer, but fails to do so. I've tried unscrewing the plug and replacing it with another, but that doesn't help. Rather strangely, it also cuts the circuit when added to a loop! My suspicion is that there's an internal fault, possibly caused by corrosion (it looks nice and clean, but I spent some time rubbing it with a model railway cleaner before testing it!) Has anyone come across a problem like this before? Many thanks in advance for any help you are able to provide! -
Hi there, as most collectors know, the grey era boxes were redesigned in 1989. But I don't know if all sets from the 1989-1990 lineup were affected, therefore I need your help. So far, I found 1989 versions of the following sets: 7813 Shell Tanker waggon (sorry, no picture yet) 7817 Crane Waggon all sets from 7850 to 7861 7865 Motor 7867 Light posts The 1989 version can be recognized by looking at the copyright date, which contains two years: the first one states the initial release (e.g. 1980, 1983 or 1985). The second year is always "1989". [7864 power supply is a special case, it exists in three different box versions: 1980 and 1982 without copyright, and the final one with 1990 copyright] So, the question is: do the following sets also exist in a 1989 version? 7823 Container crane depot 7835 manual road crossing 7839 car transport depot 7866 remote controlled road crossing If any of you has one of these sets with a 1989 copyright, a picture would be great. kind regards, Christian
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Hello everybody, On Page 5 of this brochure from 1991, it is mentioned: http://worldbricks.com/en/catalog-year/1990/catalogs-1991/1991-lego-catalog-2-en-fr-nl.html For owners of 12V Lego trains, a special 12V train brochure is available. Please contact Lego Spares service. Aux utilisateurs de trains Lego 12V: Réclamez la brochure special "trains 12V" a Lego S. A. ... Please let me know if I can find in internet and download the special 12v train brochures from 1991, 1992, 1993 (or even from 1990, 1989, 1988). Otherwise, iIf you have them, I really appreciate if you can scan them or just let me know, so that I can find a way to borrow them from me, or even buy them. This is for a longterm project for improving the current inventory of 12v and 4.5V trains on bricklink. One concern is the service bag 5086, which is declared on bricklink from 1993, but I am not sure. I cannot find it in any brochure available online! Cheers
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Message to all "hardcore" collectors of the grey 12v train era 1980-1990
Carrera124 posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hello, when I started collecting the sets from the grey 12v era 1980-1990, I bought many used sets and incomplete lots. Bricklink was (and is) a great help to check them for completeness, and to complete the missing parts. But later on, I faced some problems, e.g.: 1. I found part variants, that Bricklink doesn't know . 2. Some invetories are obviously wrong. For example, it is hard to believe that the power rail 2731a shall be contained in set 7725, but not in 7727. In reality, it looks as if this part wasn't used at all before 1986. 3. Alternative parts are not consistent among various sets. For example, the second version of the black steam cylinder x461 is listed as alternate part for 7730 and 7750, but not for 7865. I got into conctact with other collectors (e.g. Reza) and we exchanged lots of pictures and information. The result is a huge table that can be downloaded here: Table It is a write-proteced Excel file. To use the file, you need a monitor with huge resolution (at least Full-HD) and not too big scaled font size (for Windows, 100% is fine). The table shall be a basis for discussion, not a final document. In many cases, there are only hints and conclusions, but no hard evidence. Any feedback is appreciated. A short guide to the table columns: A "Part" Basic part description B "Variant Type" The different known variants of the part. C "Number" Bricklink part numer. Parts that Bricklink doesn't know, use a "+" at the end of the name, or ar marked "?". D-N "Years" Assignment of the part variants to the years of production / selling. O-P etc. "Sets" Each set consists of two columns. The first one indicates, if the set does containt the part at all. The second columnt indicates, how many parts are contained, and if it is a "regular" or "alternate" part. P.S. I already had contact to the Bricklink inventory admins. They are interested in improving and consolidating the set inventories. But for me, the process is extremely complicated and time-consuming. Every single change for every single set should be handled as separate "inventory change request", and every request takes weeks/months until a decision is made. Imho, this is very ineffective, so I decided to write this text and to provide the table for download. -
Hello again, I am looking for instructions of 753, 754 and 755. Didn't find them online. Do you know from where I can download them or do you have them?
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What trains could be rereleased if Lego goes the Legends route?
Doom2099 posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
I am so excited with Lego's news about their reselling the Taj Mahal, because there's always the possibility that this is just the start of something big, and we could be getting an affordable chance to buy classic sets that we missed out on, or don't want to pay the current online prices. I remember with the arrival of the internet how cool it was to go to places like Lugnet, and then to Ebay, and being shocked at how much trains had gone up in price, even just from 1980 to 2000. Then after everyone complained online about how they missed out on the Metroliner, it suddenly reappeared like a legendary phoenix. With the Club Car in tow! At the time, it made perfect sense bringing back the first 9v train while 9v was still going strong. 10 years seems to be the magic number for rereleases with Lego, as seen with the Legends line, and now Taj Mahal. So I was wondering, what if any trains do you think Lego could/should rerelease? Could they take old 12v and 9v sets and swap in Power Functions? What about the Train Shed, or Santa Fe Super Chief? Emerald Night? Are there any regular retail trains sold after 9v that people are clamoring for a return of, as we saw with the Metroliner almost 20 years ago? Is a train related rerelease even feasible with Lego today? I would love to hear what others think is possible / desired. Personally I wish I could buy more Santa Fe cars for regular retail price! -
Hi everybody, I have been carefully watching all trains 7730 on sale in different countries since summer 2017. At the beginning, I realized that the 3 * yellow cones listed in the inventory in bricklink had axle hole: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=7730-1 The yellow cones 3943a: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3943a&idColor=3#T=C&C=3 This yellow cone 3943a appears in two sets. 3 used for the train 7730 and 2 used in 599-1. But many trains had the other version 3943b with axle hole: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=3943b&in=S This version is used in two sets. One used in 4982-1 and 2 used in 6954-1. Lego produced both versions since 1979. But there are some doubts on this. Sets in which 3943a appear are produced in 1979, 1980 and 1981 (msotly). This suggests that sometime about 1981-82, Lego replaces 3943a with 3943b. The train 7730 was produced from 1979-82. Then probably, some sets made in 1982 came with 3943b. About one third of the trains i have seen have the version 3943b. As the two versions are as rare as the other, I simply conclude that Lego released some of them with 3943b. It is not likely that so many private sellers lost all the three yellow cones 3943a and then bought or found the other version 3943b and replaced with them. Thus, if you bought this train in your childhood and still have it, could you please comment which version are your yellow cones? If you still have the box, could you check if it is D/F/NL or UK/F/I version? It its also helpful if you tell from what country the train was bought. For learning about different versions of box, see: If you could attach a photo of your train, box(the language part on the right side of the front box) and cone, it would be great and helpful. Also, a photo of the bottom of the motor, if you are sure that the red motor is not switched with another one. Reading the number on the bottom of the motor, we can see in what year it is produced. Here is mine where you can read 38 0 which means week 38 year 1980: This will help me to come up with more evidence to submit a change of inventory request. Regards Here I put some the trains on sale, now or before coming with cones 3943b: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202086086008?clk_rvr_id=1385696026058&rmvSB=true http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Rare-boite-Lego-TRAIN-7730-briques-neuves-jamais-jou%C3%A9/172901510590?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.it/itm/152813017599?ul_noapp=true http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Lego-Eisenbahn-12V-12-Volt-Dampflok-G%C3%BCterzug-7730-mit-BA-OVP-komplett/263014487777?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 -
A few days ago, I made a decision. I've tried to build big houses, buildings and trains and have never been satisfied. I and new pieces and colors doesn't match and when I am collecting 12v trains and buildings and was a kid in the 80s it was actually a pretty easy decision: My mocs will look as they are taken from a LEGO catalogue from 1982-86. So, here is my first try. The brand new 7833 Shell terminal from 1984! It's still only build digitally, but I think I'm going to buy the pieces to build it in real, too! Any ideas and thoughts are welcome. Be mercyful :-) http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-2.jpg http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-3.jpg
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As the title says really. Has anyone created anything like this? Would love to see them if so. Same goes for the other way round too. I've seen a nice long base 7710 carriage before on here. Look forward to seeing anything you've created along these lines!
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Hi all, Does anyone have experience/ knowledge of using another type of cabling for 12v layouts and accessories other than the official Lego stuff? I'm looking for a cheaper alternative for long stretches of cabling. Thank you very much! ?
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[Train Layout] The WindMill Lego Train Layout Project (WMLTL)
LegoLow posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hello everyone, for those who do not know me, I'm a big fan of trains and especially Lego Train. I finally have a space to create a Layout finally worthy of the name. My approach comes a little more of the model in the sense that I like to see a train pass over another, to automate the network, make realistic through light signals, station stops, etc. ... I started this project in February 2016 in my basement where I made by myself, furniture and shelf for storing SET Lego but also to design the layout. I was already well advanced when an incident occurred: the flooding of the basement end in May 2016 .... Then in August, the discovery of a leak in the water supply of the house forced me to completely dismantle this first try of a Layout to access the water inlet pipe ..... I come back now in force therefore with a first experience, many tests on the possibility for our pretty trains to climb slopes (straight or curved) to optimize the best of my available space and create a nice layout ! ;-) Due to financial limits, this layout will be not made with 100% of Lego, I will use wood and homemade stickers, custom electronic to make it. Here are the first shots (or I should say the nth plan because with Bluebrick, we never stop to change those plans) to my future Layout (so different from the first that I had designed and unfinished) WMLTL - v5 - Level 0 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Corresponds to trainyard + walkway + a brief passage of the 12V track WMLTL - v5 - Level 1 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Ground level with his future main station WMLTL - v5 - Level 2 by LegoLow, sur Flickr First level of the "mountain" : secondary station and then, possibility to climb in the mountain or to go back to the main level WMLTL - v5 - Level 3 by LegoLow, sur Flickr WMLTL - v5 - Level 4 by LegoLow, sur Flickr WMLTL - v5 - Level 5 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Top of the mountain.... Finally a view (done quickly, I will improving later), global superimposed, giving the idea of what will be hidden, visible .... WMLTL Project - v5 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Following probably next week with the start of the implementation of Level 0. It's a big challenge for me because this project is made of mixing differents things : LEGO, electronics, electricity problematics, Priority management on a network, etc.... Hope you will find that interesting to ! -
Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo
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Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
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