Ashi Valkoinen

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About Ashi Valkoinen

  • Birthday 05/08/1988

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    <p> Trains and I'm not buying sets, just parts. </p>

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    LEGO trains, what else? Hm, LARP, too.


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  1. Ashi Valkoinen

    LEGO VT 11.5 Trans Europ Express (TEE)

    With experimenting with different, long, any heavy train I found that on longer term or running the train on strict R40 based station geometry it generates issues that the train drives assymetrical - direction A pushed, direction B pulled. Of course we know tons of MOC-s with loco-car-car-drivercar setup, where the full trainset is pushed in one direction, but the forces awakening at the coupling magnets and the magnets' suspension to the bogies are really different in pulled and pushed mode. I think a second V2 IR and two motors under rear engine (or the same with 2 SBricks) will give better and smoother run. IF you send me a PM with your address, I could send you one SBrick, I have 2 laying around for months by now. Just keepthe forum occupied with your good builds :)
  2. Ashi Valkoinen

    LEGO VT 11.5 Trans Europ Express (TEE)

    Very nice build with lots of good and unique building techniques. How do you drive the 3 PF train motors to be synchronised? All of them ar plugged on the same IR receiver or you have more receiver and battery packs? If it is 2,5 metres long, one IR receiver with 3 train motors can't make it move due to current limitation, so maybe two IR with 2-2 motors gives better traction, OR non-LEGO SBrick.
  3. Hi all, most of those people who know my LEGO Train works (following my topic at this forum or my Facebook page) know that I am building LEGO-replicas of real rolling stock running in Hungary and some neighbouring countries. Through the years I have built four different Stadler FLIRT units, a Bombardier Talent unit, Siemens Taurus and V63 locomotive pulling InterCity cars and a full set of Railjet train (Taurus locomotive + 7 cars). I also own some rare Hungarian trainset like BVmot and a real dual-voltage GySEV Vectron and also some trams. For this work the aim was always the same: give back as many details of the real thing as I can, and I never tried to build my own MOC. Last week I designed a crossover of the new Powered UP train and Stadler FLIRT3 EMU - putting the wonderful color pattern of the new train set to one of my existing MOC trains. Three days ago I made a step forward finally and designed my own electric motor unit with unique color pattern and design. For first I thought that it is really unique and the freedom of building whatever I want was really nice - later my friends in our LUG reminded me, that whatever I build finally it will look that Stadler have built it. So maybe I wasn't good enough to create something really unique, but at least this is my first MOC, with - as I have to acknowledge - a big influence of the Stadler railway vehicle manufacturer company. --- Since I enjoyed the planning of this three-car electric motor unit I decided to launch a train series built by the fictional company "AshiRAIL" (using the first part of my nickname which I use for 13 years by now). The first member of this series has the name VELO - a perfect solution for suburban and regional transport in LEGO City. 1. Overall look: The color pattern is based on different greens - lime, green and dark green, separated by white lines. White lines go up to cross each other at every articulation, but to make it more fun pattern is not the same at all car endings - the short, 4th car containing all the Power Function elements have a different pattern, which influences the neighbouring cars as well. 2. Front design with a big bulky part - but no gaps in the curved and sloped part! Maybe Hod Carrier's (EB-member) Desiro ML's curved front inspired me for this front - but I really wanted the big 6×6 curved slope to be built into my model. Also please note the hinge tool an the driver inside the cabin - the mirrors can be opened but when they are closed they line up with the side wall of the train making her aerodynamics better. Horns and GPS-antenna is also placed on the top, just right above the top-light, which could be enlighten by Power Function led lights. 3. Front view: The big bulky curved slope caused a lot of problems and many hours to find a good design for the glass - take a look at the next picture to see why: Basically the train - as my other builds is 8W. 8 studs can be easily built with 20 plates in SNOT (1 stud = 2,5 plate), and since the curved slopes are in SNOT, they consume 1-1 bricks (3-3 plates) from the total width. So I was left with 14 plates remaining in the middle - 15 plates are equal to 6 studs which would mean a really easy build for the windscreen. Suspension of windscreen is indicated on the top left of this image. Other problem was to little black and lime cheese slopes next to the front light containing transparent cheese slopes - since the curved slope is 0,5 plate bigger, making a stud connection to those cheese slopes is very hard. As a previous version I used 1×2×2/3 grilled slopes and led light should have given light through the grilles - than I rememberd the part indicated at the bottom of the above image - it simply can hold both the big curved slope and the cheeses. I'm glad LEGO introduced this SNOTting part one or two years ago. 4. Front view 2. The thing I don't like that much in my previous MOC builds that the Stadler trains have completely flat sidewall. So I decided use the 2×4×2/3, 1×2×2/3 and 2×2×2/3 curved slopes to make it more elegant. The front's big curved slope almost passed for this, where the side pattern needed, 1×2×2/3 curved slopes were repleced with cheese 1×1×2/3 and tile 1×1 part. 5. Interior This is a low entry train with step-free interior - we can see here the middle car with a standard toliet inside. 6. Power Module I learned in my Stadler FLIRT units that a big AA battery box (AAA emptied too quickly), an SBrick and the cables for 4 functions (interior lights, front A lights, front B lights, driving) needs a lot of space even in a 6 wide space. So to avoid consuming too much from the place designed for passangers I inserted a power module with Jacobs-bogies, which was introduced for real by estonian Stadler FLIRT diesel units. This is a good way to keep axle-load low, and I can spare every stud at the interior for the minifigs. With all the small details and SNOT-techniques part count went up to 5129 bricks - the four-car long Stadler FLIRTs have around 3500. So it would be fun to build and especially to motorise it, but I think SBrick and 2 or 3 Power Function train motors can do the job. Please tell my what do you think, best regards, AshiV
  4. Ashi Valkoinen

    [LDD-MOC] Powered Up passanger train and FLIRT3 crossover

    It is really funny, because I know lot of FLIRT-designs across in Europe (I really love these trains and also the representatives of them in Hungary gave me a lot of help when it comes to build, display my LEGO FLIRTs), but this one in Germany I missed and have seen for first time after reading your comment. Seems a classic FLIRT-design for regional lines (only three doors / side), with a little less orange compared to my design. For me it seems it is a new trends in modern electric motor unit's color pattern that there is a dark color (or black) line between the windows - this horizontal pattern starts at frist window and breaks by doors and carrieage ends - and it seems even TLC applied this to their train (dark blue in the line of windows).
  5. Ashi Valkoinen

    [MOC] Laura's Narrow-Gauge Rolling Stock Roster

    Very nice cars. Do you use any lubrication material on those small wheels? I had once a RoLA truck transporter car with 8 axles of these small wheels but it was extra hard to pull by locomotive...
  6. Ashi Valkoinen

    [MOC] My train stuff

    Nicely done, I hope you will motorise it. :)
  7. Recently our LUG got the new Powered Up passanger train which was a great fun for the kids at the holiday LEGO camp to assembly. However it seems that TLC will keep the big, one-part train fronts for all upcoming passanger trains, in other details the new City set seems a really good deal even for my AFOL-eyes. The color scheme, the easily removeable battery compartment solution is really nice, and the improved remote handles the speeds better (train not stopping at curves with speed 1). It is a real drawback, that only two outputs can be handled by a single battery box and connectors can't be stacked, but I hope there will be an official solution from TLC to put more motors on the same port (and maybe AA battery box). But back to colors... this bright orange, dark blue and light bluish gray combination is just perfect, I think it looks better than the 75% of real train colors. So I decided to make a try in LDD how this color scheme would look like on my Stadler FLIRT3 EMU (which was build for real recently). I had to change bright orange to simple orange - bright orange parts are still very limited. So, here are some screenshots from LDD: 1. The overall look: 2. Front pattern (light bluish gray cheese slopes missing but could be fit for real): 3. Overall look focusing on front: 4. Next to my GySEV FLIRT3: Basically only small details have been altered - the hinge connection by the front needed to be changed since the 1×2 plate with bar (closed ends) doesn't exist in orange. Also the side detail next to driver's cab and front window have been changed a little. However FLIRT trains have two different levels (upper one next to driver's cab and articulation, lower one anywhere else) I kept all color patterns horizontal through the train. Some lines with 1 plate height in Powered Up set have been increased to two plates (white on side and darb blue on the top), and made the full-orange front to have a line back at the bottom just like Railjet locomotives are painted with the red pattern curving back to the bottom. The doors became orange, sincs new TSI standards require to make doors with outstanding pattern to be easily identifyable to people with damaged vision. For this train I decided to make the plan with 3 cars - most LEGO passanger trains are given with 3 cars. Battery compartment could be hidden at toilet section. Tell me your opinion. :)
  8. Ashi Valkoinen

    PF tracks/switch not lining up?

    Same issue with newer PF-track: Simply stressed and not lining up properly. This works however fine with 9V tracks and older PF tracks.
  9. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    Thanks for you comments so far. She is alive, here are some test loops at our permanent exhibition:
  10. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    ...aaand here I am with the next interpretation of the next generation - the FLIRT3 train of GySEV railway company got finally real in bricks and was publicly displayed for first time next to the real train on her first run with passangers onboard! This variation of my Stadler FLIRT design also needed some fundamental changes - the middle cars are longer by 5 studs (on more window between the two doors) which needed some changes at rotation points of shared bogies to make the train run on R40-based geometry as well. Other important and more noticable change is the front design - thanks to the more strict TSI standads related to collisions and energy absorbing the FLIRT trains of Stadler have been changed a lot, and it is really remarkable at the front design. The more roboust design was fortunately easier to do with bricks than the previous FLIRT-design. The only thing I had to think a lot was colouring - the bottom part under each car is a color which doesn't exist in LEGO - it should be "very dark bluish gray". I was thinking about using black instead of dark bluish gray (and my LDD-plans were published with black design), but finally the front made me to use dark bluish gray - if you check the windscreen, it has a narrow, black, angled pattern under the windscreen and an another strip of dark bluish gray. This gray is the same what colour the train has at the doors and the bottom part - using black to represent "very dark bluish gray" would mean to lose this detail. The new FLIRT3 is compatible with the older version both in real and in LEGO, their run can be synced through SBrick which delivers enough current from the battery box to the three PF train motors under the train. Similarly to my other three FLIRT train it has front/tail lights, which could be controlled independently and indoor lights. Fortunately Power Functions led lights have been improved during their production, and my leds bought for this project give much more light - they could be noticed in the train even when it runs in enlighten enviroment (they are still not visible by sunlight, just artifical lights). I'm fortunately after some testruns (synced run, durability-test, battery test), and it works quite good, however it can eat the 6×2100 mAh batteries fast, so I have to look up for something with more storage capacity. I'm also planning to develope more on bogie details - current design works fine without falling apart but the real thing has little more details around the wheels. Comments and critics, as always, welcome.
  11. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    If you have a topic for this train we can continue there, but I think the following lines are ontopic here in mine as well. So as far as I could notice your design is even longer than mine, since you have two studs between the center side windows on each car. These cars are still shorter than traditional 8W carrieges modelling a 23-26 metres long 2'2' passanger car, but these are connected with shared bogies which means total different behaviour on curves and points, especially if you put more of these next to each other. The perfomance of my trains is good with two motors on straight tracks or on one switch turnout, but it struggled on 180 degree turnbacks (R40) or more points placed fter each other. So I went up for three train motors, but even an infrared V2 receiver can't serve their needs and SBrick also allows synced run of more motor units. This synced run the other thing I really need to work - with two motors in coupled run the train reaching the curved slowed down too much and had been pushed out by the second unit by the coupler, so this was an another reason to go up for three motors. Also PF train motors are different and newer series are worse - the bottom part of the motor has a number XX JX, where X are digits between 0-9, the first XX seems to be random, but JX shows the "age" of the motor, J0-J1 as oldest and increasing X mean newer series motor. J0s and J1s are simply faster and stronger when top perfomance is needed - but this difference is not noticeable when you run LEGO-set sized train. I'm pretty sure you will run your loops with motorising this wonderful EMU - I worked on it for around 3 years to find a good solution and make my trains run almost flawlessly. :) EDIT: Also you can check my design here, as I upload every LDD's I managed to build for real bricks to help anyone else who wants to figure out how my builds work: I think for you car length the pivot point of shared bogies should be moved 1 more stud more under the carriages to make it run on R40 geometry.
  12. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    Ahhaha, thank you, I'm not totally satisfied with the photo since this photo was taken with a 12 years old Canon PowerShot, and the lights were not so good at that time because I couldn't reach the photo place where I wanted to take the photo first. And this old camera couldn't handle lower light level and 140 km/h at the same time. :) I found it easier to manage and show my MOC trains if I put all of them to the same topic - I have some others with trams but they are visible only to those who are browsing Eurobricks Train Tech at the time when I post the topic. And yes, almost 10 years, and almost ten years ago when Eurobricks Train Tech Contest was held. I hope I can introduce here something at the annivarsary. :) In what scale are you building it and what scale did you use on the previous version? What problems did you have with motorising? I went for SBrick and 3 Power function train motors - train motors give enough power to go through on everything (and SBrick can deliver enough current for this), I ended up with around 3700-3800 grams of each FLIRT units. :D I remember I had seen one digial SBB FLIRT years ago here: And I found a really nice 12V version on some german site, with the scale of official LEGO set trains, but now I can't find it anywhere. UPDATE: found it, there she is:
  13. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    Thanks to n3t3rb's request I put some work ours to my Stadler FLIRT design - after finishing the third motor unit with refreshing the front design and adding SBrick I didn't think that I will ever change something on them - until May of this year. The request was the SBB (Swiss Railway Company) FLIRT in LDD - and it has a long horizontal pattern on the angled part of the roof which makes my previous design to be unuseable in this case. The redesign of the angled part also made the redesign of the front necessary - at least a part of it. So, here is the entire train in LEGO: The difference between the new and old roof solution: The new design of the front's top part allow to run through multiple narrow color lines (the line of cheese slopes can be a different color next to the whie on side): Overall look:
  14. Ashi Valkoinen

    Is using SBrick cheating?

    It is not cheating, but a really good offer for our train hobby. Multiple motors served from same port (and SBrick actually allows 3A per output!), synchronising outputs or different SBricks for multiple locomotive or EMU/DMU traction. I use currently 6 of them, but plan for more.
  15. Really nice design and it totally fits the 12V era. I always wondered how people can make wonderful MOC trains with simple building techniques and such good match with the chosen train era, however I build and design a lot, I could never replicate they style of original LEGO sets.