Ashi Valkoinen

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Ashi Valkoinen

  • Birthday 05/08/1988

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    <p> Trains and I'm not buying sets, just parts. </p>

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  • Website URL
    http://mlvk.blog.hu/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tatabánya
  • Interests
    LEGO trains, what else? Hm, LARP, too.

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  • Country
    Hungary

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  1. Ashi Valkoinen

    LDD-MOC: HŽ-6112 EMU manufactured by Končar

    Maybe there is a way to do it better, but I designed this in 2014 and 2015. Some really nice new parts appeared since those years, I'm pretty sure that the curves slop 1×2×2/3 would be useful in this case. Looking at Michael's train with real bricks however I'm fine with that design back from 2015. :)
  2. Ashi Valkoinen

    LDD-MOC: HŽ-6112 EMU manufactured by Končar

    I'm sorry moderators and admins for raising this topic from 2015, but I recently got some photos from a Danish builder which makes actuality to this topic. Since these Koncar EMUs are really out of my fleet (Hungary-related rolling stock and actually they will NEVER run in Hungary) I decided not to build any - the only reason I designed them in LDD was that they looked really hard to be modelled by LEGO and at those times I had a Croatian girlfriend. Girlfriend is gone by now for years by now and I extended my fleet with other trains, but I uploaded my LDD-plans to my LDD Brickshelf folder to share (for free!) the building techniques I used in this MOC. And recently I got an e-mail with bunch of photos from Denmark - an AFOL living there built the train with REAL BRICKS following my LDD-file. So, here are some photos, shared with the permission of their owner, Michael Rehorst:
  3. Ahh, fines, it will help by now. The Hungrian word "tömítés" means a water resist thingy you put by the joints of the water pipes, but I never thought that "O-ring" will be this. :D I'll look up in local stores to buy some and try it with the tram, really thanks for the advice!
  4. Ashi Valkoinen

    BR51-761-5 (Octrainber 2018)

    Well built and played the BMR contest. :D My hopes are gone. :D It is nice that such a monster deals with r40 geometry smoothly but those dark green cars are screaming for to be built in 7W or 8W, the short video footage shows how narrow they are compared to the loco and LEGO track!
  5. Ashi Valkoinen

    [WIP] Hungarian Railways Lencse-005

    I'm really happy that someone entered the OcTRAINber competition with a Hungarian MOC. The Lencse unit is a really modern and nice track maintance vehicle produced in our country - back under the socialist era our country produced thousand of trains for the "friend" countries and now only ruins of this industry remained with some remarkable products like the train you modelled. And you made a fantastic work and created a solid design. My favourite is hiding the IR receiver in an aesthetic way and the window cleaners on the front. The wedge plates 2×2 and 2×4 also worked nicely together for the sloping front design.
  6. Ashi Valkoinen

    [OcTRAINber MOC - WIP] Dodge Ferrobus

    Really nice progress, fits very well to the competition, both the model and the WIP photos, descriptions. My favourite part is above the roof - I like the paralel bars which are so close to each other, this technique could be very useful in many other non-trains MOCs as well. Looking at the interior may I suggest the old 9V battery box and a short Power Functions extension cable? It could make all your driving systems based on unmodified LEGO parts at a little cost of interior space. Also maybe the motor PF M could be suspended under the carriage to win some more space inside. Just ideas. :) Your bus reminded me to a prototype they tried in Hungary for marginal lines - converting Ikarus 260 buses to trains. Tests were unsuccesful, but we had a yellow bus on train tracks for a while. I'm wondering in how many countries they made a try with such a combination to cut costs... https://hu.wikipedia.org/wiki/MÁV_Ikarus_260#/media/File:Ikarusz260sinautobusz.jpg
  7. I'd like to say a big thanks for your kind words. I worked quite lot on this tram in a short period of time (and I had a full-time job and one of the biggest LEGO-events this month) so I sacrificed many sleep hours to complete this MOC. But it was worth. I try to use as less non-LEGO parts as I can, but I'll consider your trick, maybe it will give the little more I need to make it run better. However I had seen many people talking about this "O-rings", what the hell they are for real? I don't know the good hungarian word for it to google, and can't be transleted nicely, so where can I buy these, what material they are consist of and what size do I need for a LEGO train wheel? :)
  8. And finally it works and this morning (3 a.m. in Hungary) I posted my entry to the BMR's dedicated Flickr-group. I'd like to also share images and story of the tram here. When I noticed BMR's contest I thought I might participate with my fresh Stadler Citylink design but BMR's contest stated that it should be some foreign build - and Citiylinks will be running in Hungary from 2020. So I looked around on the market of possibli low floor and modern passanger trains/trams (I prefer these instead of diesel and steam engines) and than I remembered that read an article in Hungarian about the ultra low floor, ULF tram of Wiener Linien. I have also seen the prototype in Oradea (Romania) when I travelled through the city to a Romanian LUG's event in Cluj. So, what do we know about this tram RL? Ultra low floor entry: 18 cm top of the rail. Shorter trams (there are three sectioned and five sectioned) consist of three cars (two ends, one middle), and these cars are suspended on 4 pair of wheels - but there is no axle between the wheels to grant 18 cm floor all over the tram. This first image is the comparison of the LEGO MOC and the official technical draw published on Siemens Mobility. At my MOC the first and last "articulation" is rigid and there is no turning around neither forthe wheels nor the suspension point, but the two middle ones work as ridicolous 1 "axle' Jacobs-bogies, while the neighbouring cars are suspended by the top. Only the first pair of wheels are driven which caused... problems when powering the tram itself. The real thing is 2400 mm wide and since I built it in 8W it results in scale 1:37,5 (1 stud = 800 mm). This image shows the moving articulation with the axleless wheels and shows how the tram is accessible between the two wheels. The floor level of the tram is 2 and half plates, which goes down to 1,5 plates at the doors - the real thing has entry level of 180 mm and 1,5 plates (4,8 mm) upscale is exactly 180 mm. Unfortunately something has to hold the bottom plate level together, so after the doors I used 2,5 plates floor level height. Tram on curved track - note how the middle and side articulations work. I am quite lucky with this build - I couldn't put turn signal on the articulation's side or even complete the articulation without the quite new tile parts: -2×3 tile -2×2 tile with two studs on one side. All tram doors could be open by hand, this method is not too complicated to do, but caused some brainstorming when it came to the first and last module - the 1 stud wide tower of bricks and plates between the first (last) articulation and the doors should have a gap for the droid arm to make the door opened - but what is holding it together? Of course, the light bluish gray bar inside (the other end of droid arm), which connects the bricks with 1×1 plates with horizontal clips. All doors opened. Note the battery box in the first compartment - it was the only place to hide it in some aesthetic way and it gives enough weight for the first (powered) wheels. The tram driver's back is connected to the studs of battery box so there remained a small room for him! We do care for the disabled passangers in our LEGO City and the small platform I built aslo shows how low floor is the tram, the height of the top of the tiles is 4,5 plates (1 plate + 0,5 plate + 2 plate + top tile), and this 4,5 plates should be decreased with the value of 3 plates which is the height of train track. And finally, powering. It was a really strict condition for me that I build this tram with no axle connecting the wheels. This was easy with running ones, but quite hard with powered ones. First attempt was this (designed in LDD and build for real): It was a nice idea for first and I used mostly system bricks for the powered articulation, but the two perpendicular gear connections meant a lot of energy loss and neither PF M, PF L and PF train motors couldn't do anyrhing with it under load. So it came to buy a PF XL quickly, but with its torque I was pretty sure this thing will blow up. It did. So I redesigned the gearing, replacing bricks with 11 long beam which holds the gears: This design holds better, but some gears I should have doubled to avoid some undesired forces turning out some gears from the desired direction. This part was the most barinstorming part because I'm really unfamiliarwith technic, I hate it, everything I tried blowed up or didn't work - but after some tests this started to be good... ...until I connected all cars and it didn't move again, but the driven wheels were slipping. I figured out this first wheels need some weight so I moved the battery box (AAA one) from the roof to the place of tram driver to give more weight. It worked a little better and moved very, very slowly, but wheels were still slipping. And finally I remembered that I am using PF train wheels as running wheels so I took them our from the tram and removed the traction rubber from their surface. Magically after this it started to work, still slowly due to the characteristics of XL motor (and I did really have no time to gear it up keeping enough torque), so it shall run on a LEGO city sightseeing line. I posted a video to my FLICKr album linked below. Two more images: Overall look. Disassembly for turning on or changing batteries. Driver minifigure is mounted on the batter box! Check my FLICKR-album for better resolution images and a video showing the tram running: https://www.flickr.com/photos/150200265@N08/sets/72157700704620731/
  9. Ashi Valkoinen

    OcTRAINber 2018: The Foreign Challenge is go!

    I'm getting out of time... BL orders were delayed during the time period of early and mid-October, now I have the parts but no time to build. Long days I'm looking forward. :)
  10. I'm also, because only 4 days left and I'm still swearing at the powering of the tram. It is incredibly hard to bring down the motor's power from the roof to the wheels (the articulation between powered wheels will be accessible!), train motor in the top or M, L motors doesn't have to torque, XL has the torque to pop all the tram to parts. For me Technic is a totally unknown and hated field of LEGO, I think it maximizes the "out of comfort" factor for the competition!
  11. Yes, the plan is to equip the tram with working doors. They won't work on any technic mechanism, just able to be opened by hand and that way I can reach every seat inside and place figures into the tram. The (now tested) door will look like this: I used droid arm to connect the 1×2 plate with bar part, and inside the tram there is a 4L light bluish gray bar holding it. Thank you for both of you. Opening doors, red flags, but the articulations' suspension and motorising still a secret. :) Soon I'll move one with these details as well and hopefully she will run before the 31st day of October!
  12. RED FLAG for my project!I spent a little more on Bricklink orders than I thought for first I will, but now I grabbed almost all the needed parts and my entry is only matter of time which I don't have too much. Fortunately red flags are not involved in a financial term and abandoning the project, but I used 2×2 square flag LEGO parts to get the right detail of my entry. This is the base of my tram's suspended cars, and the edges should be built with SNOT tiles to leave space for the wheels (see my images above) on the articulation pieces when the tram enters a curve. The horizontal black and red pattern (5 plates height and 3 plates height) should be continuous. It is easy to build 5 plates in SNOT 2 studs, but 1 brick (3 plates) height is 1 stud + half plate, which is not that trivial to build. 1 stud is given by red tile, and half plate with the edge of red flag part - fortunately it is placed high enough that it wouldn't conflict with the tram wheel. Tram module - make a guess, why are there those one plate high gaps in the red pattern:
  13. Thank you very much. I did yesterday and today a great progress in LDD, however I'm not satisfied with the result yet. At least the proportions in 1:38 fit the prototype, but the inner stuff just as the aticulations, seating and floor level needs tons of more work. Fortunately I have a solution for the articulation by now, after the second row of bricks it will be wider and will have similar look to the prototype. I'll shoot some photos today after work. The "articulation" with the driven wheels will be narrower, with the gears inside I have really little space to deal with. Thank you! Keep an eye on the topic, I'll post photos of the progress every two or three days. :)
  14. Today I almost finished with the two rotating articulation of my tram, which is my entry to OcTRAINber contest!This is an axleless articulation, which allows a low floor through the tram at the level of t.o.r.* + 3,5 plates. If I can make to upper (roof) suspension strong enough I can leave the bottom 2×2 turntables and make the floor at level of t.o.r. + 2,5 plates (in this case t.o.r. + 1,5 plates is also possible, but 2 plates height is needed to make the plates connected to each other...) The design of inner wall will be surely altered to make it less narrow, but I also have to consider that the articulation should look as closed as I can do and it would be unhappy if any of the minifigs could fall out or touch the rotating wheel underneath!*t.o.r. = top of rail
  15. Ashi Valkoinen

    A PUP (Power UP) question

    Steam engines have bigger wheels and most builder who drives these big wheels used Power Function M,L or XL motors and powered the wheels through gears (instead of using a single train motor we are get used to put under electric and diesel engines with usual wheel diameter). The problem is that the 5th and 6th wires in the Powered UP cable (remember: Power Function had 4 wires) serve as identification, so the hub (battery box with integrated bluetooth receiver) knows, what you have plugged in, and the physical remote buttons (+ and -) act differently with different motors connected. If you connect train motor, it acts like the old Power Function train (speed) remote control. If you connect technic motors, it acts like the old Power Function technic remote control (which allowed no speed, just full throttle until the remote is pressed). So according these you can't speed remote control a steam loco powered with NOT train motor in the new system, since the physical bluetooth remote will act as a technic remote, allowing only full throttle. --- And my bug is that my hub's left port identifies the train motor as technic motor, and allows only full throttle which is totally useless for the passanger train.