Ashi Valkoinen

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Ashi Valkoinen

  • Birthday 05/08/1988

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    LEGO trains, what else? Hm, LARP, too.


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  1. Ashi Valkoinen

    Is using SBrick cheating?

    It is not cheating, but a really good offer for our train hobby. Multiple motors served from same port (and SBrick actually allows 3A per output!), synchronising outputs or different SBricks for multiple locomotive or EMU/DMU traction. I use currently 6 of them, but plan for more.
  2. Really nice design and it totally fits the 12V era. I always wondered how people can make wonderful MOC trains with simple building techniques and such good match with the chosen train era, however I build and design a lot, I could never replicate they style of original LEGO sets.
  3. Ashi Valkoinen

    Okay, help me with PF train motors

    I don't think so, I have some motors of the newer series running under different trains of mine for months by now, but they didn't get any faster at this time. Something had changed, and I had no chance this week to do the comparison by opening them up. :(
  4. Ashi Valkoinen

    [MOC] Dual-voltage (9V-12V) GySEV Vectron locomotive

    So, finally, got my 12V straights, built into the layout at a small section, had time to take some videos, so here it is (first time I have to hear my voice and I don't like it :D)
  5. Ashi Valkoinen

    Life sized "LEGO" locomotive in Hungary

    Haha, Hungary, they made an advertisement if you bring your own LEGO MOC train you can have a free ride. "Gyermekvasút" means "kids' railway", it is a narrow gauge line EW from capital of Hungary, Budapest. In the communist era the kids with good school grades could get there to learn, how a railway system works and actually work there, this tradition is still kept. The only job kids can't do is driving the trains, but they could work at holidays in different positions - selling and checking tickets, handling points and signal and managing the traffic. It is quite hard to get there to work as a kid, and a good start for those who are dedicated enough to spend their lives as adults by different railway companies.
  6. Ashi Valkoinen

    Okay, help me with PF train motors

    On Monday I will open up two of them, document it and also send my (and it seems your) rightful questions to TLC.
  7. Ashi Valkoinen

    Okay, help me with PF train motors

    Good point, but I bought motors only, without wheels, I replaced the wheels from old setup. However the problem now seems solved, the motors with mark XX J0, XX J1, XX J2 seems to be faster while other ones (J3, J4, J5, J6, J7) are slower. I found some older motors and put under the green-yellow FLIRT (with same wheels), now it runs the same speed as the red and blue-white one. Next week I will open up a new and older one to see what's the difference inside.
  8. Ashi Valkoinen

    Okay, help me with PF train motors

    So I ran into a problem I couldn't solve on my own but reduced the possible error to the PF train motor. I have three, differently colored, but in dimensions and structure identical Stadler FLIRT electric motor units built from LEGO bricks. All three of them are powered with SBrick, using three PF train motors under each train. Here they are: I noticed that the yellow-green one runs slower than the other two, the speed difference on the same level of SBrick slider is very noticable, and there is a speed level when the yellow stops, but the other two runs on multiple curves and points with no problems. For first I thought that it could be the failure of the oldest SBrick in my yellow train, but when I replaced it with a new one, nothing happened. I measured output voltage on the output reserved for train motors, but it was just fine, only 0,02V less than the actualy batteries had. Than I replaced train motors, all three to brand new ones and the train became even slower. Than I replaced all PF extension wires between battery box and train motors, still runs slower. I measured the weight of the train, but they are 3882 and 3814 grams, the difference is only 68 grams (the yellow-green is heavier)., this is no explanation for the speed difference. Than I put the new train motors under the red one and it became slow as well. It is also noticable that a train with new motors is harder to push by hand than the train with older ones. So, my question is, did TLC change something in the internal gearing and other properties of the LEGO train motor? Neither Bricklink, not Brickset knows about the difference (if there is any), and the PF train motors has no production year printed on them, just "(C) 2005 The LEGO Group" on the bottom and a four digit code at one end, like XX JX, where XX is a two digit number, J seems constant (I checked 10 train motors), and the X after "J" seems increasing with time (my oldest motors have J0, J1 or J2, while newer ones have J4, J5, J6 underneath). The XX digit seems totally random. So does anyone know about any change in the inside parts of the PF train motor and could you advise me a method to select the faster ones?
  9. Ashi Valkoinen

    BrickTracks: different curves, PF/9V compatible

    Received my R104 Test Track recently. As far as I'm a 9V guy I need no RC-only tracks, but I consider to buy a full loop of R120 to carry out hight speed test for my trains. As others in this topic and in LEGO Train Fan Club Facebook-group, I'm totally satisfied with this single item. I showed it to my LUG members and they also find it really similar to LEGO-product tracks, the color match is really nice (don't you sacrifice cheap DBG bricks to get material? :D ), and the clutch power is just as good as LEGO's. There is no noticeable difference in the clutch power when connecting tracks to each other compared to LEGO-only, but the top studs have a little weaker clutch power. Bottom part is just as fine as LEGO's. Despite I'm a 9V guy (however with the exception of two locomotives all my trains are PF/SBrick, I want to keep backward compatibility with my tracks) I consider to buy a full loop of R120 to carry out high speed test for my trains. Hope it will help the buisness and 9V long radius curves will appear. I'm a patient guy, I'm waiting for such a product since 2012. :)
  10. Ashi Valkoinen

    [MOC] Dual-voltage (9V-12V) GySEV Vectron locomotive

    Thanks for your kind words. It is special for me, because the book you had written has your Vectron locomotive on its front. :) Some straight 12V tracks arrived finally (this is my first order of such and old system excluding some 12V parts ordered before for the locomotive), and of course it haven't worked first as I hoped. It worked quite slow on 12V sections (they were powered from a 9V speed regulator, because I don't have any 12V :D), so I decided to measure voltage on the track, on the 12V pickups and on the light gray plug of PF-cable, which leads to the train motor. There was 9V in the track (I cleaned them and all connections before) and 5V at the PF-cable, and it came quite clear in minutes that there is a 2,5-3 Ohm resistance between the 12V pickup and the 9V motor. Since the current flows this through twice (+ and -), it results in 5-6 Ohm resistance, while the internal resistance of the 9V train motor is 10 Ohm. So, that's why the loco runs slow on the 12V section, I'm pulling electrics apart and cleaning every connection I have - the old 12V parts seem to be little corroded, while the PF-part is fine - when running on internal battery box, the 7,2V of my rechargeable batteries appear on the PF-plug as well.
  11. Ashi Valkoinen

    [MOC] Dual-voltage (9V-12V) GySEV Vectron locomotive

    Thanks for all the replies so far. I'm currently working on a video showing the locomotive running between differently powered sections, the only problem occured I don't have enough 12V straight tracks! I'm waiting for a bigger package of track to arrive, then I can continue with the video. :)
  12. Hello all, I'd like to introduce my latest MOC, the Siemens Vectron locomotive of GySEV/ROeEE railway company. These locomotive appeared only months ago on Hungarian rails, the Austrian-Hungarian railway company, GySEV/ROeEE bought 9 of these with different equipment. Some of them are dual-voltage and run under 25kV, 50Hz (Hungary) and 15kV, 16.7Hz (Austria), some of them are capable to work with DC supply as well, and 2 of them with the two different AC-supply will get diesel units inside to ensure the locos can move on industrial tracks not electrified at all. When these locomotives started to appear I designed it in LDD, there was a little competition between Hungarian LEGO train fans with the design. I was the first who finished the virtual build and I loved it, so I decided to build it as soon as possible. This was the first versions, but only AC-DC locomotives have 4 pantographs, the AC-only types have only two of them. I'm quite proud of the angular green tile in the side pattern and also the angled front needed a little thinking around. I started to love the old hing plates with two and three teeth - these teeth do NOT brake the line of the hinge plate and the whole LEGO part fit into less space and easier to build other things on the top of these bricks. The slots for lights are also capable of to be lit by LEGO LED lights - another good invention introduced first in my Stadler FLIRTs to use the flexible exoforce tubes which are capable of bringing the light of PF LEDs where I need that light. You may ask why is that M-motor hanging around - it has a great importance in this model! As the real thing with two different AC-supply, my Vectron works under two different LEGO-voltages - it is compatible with 9V track and 12V track as well! The M-motor switches a polarity switch brick, which cuts off 12V pickups from 9V train motor's contacts - when the locomotive runs in 9V mode, the pickups for 12V track could touch the same rail when going through 9V points, and the loco could short circuit herself! When the loco runs in 12V mode, the polarity switch is ON, and the 9V train motors are supplied from 12V track. At the other end of the locomotive there is an another M-motor - it cuts off the 9V train motor from the output of the controlling SBrick - it won't be a wise idea to power that SBrick both from battery box and both from the 9V track, through its output... Look at the next image, how it works: So if the locomotive reaches the end of electrified track (12V or 9V), it still can carry her train forward - it can run on internal battery box as well. And finally, yes, these stuff did fit into the model: (Since the lower light on each side serves as red and white light on the real thing and upper slot serves for long distance lights at night I put white lights on the upper, red lights on the lower slots.) Also some other images and further details can be found in Hispabrick Magazine #29: Comments and critics welcome! Some other photos:
  13. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    Thank you. It was worth redesigning it, but truly said I'm still thinking about how it could be improved. I will never finish this project. :D Each motor units has one big (Technic, AA) battery box (I prefer these because of the bigger capacity and the fact that they don't turn automatically OFF), an SBrick is plugged on the battery box. Three PF train motors (bogies 2,3,4) are under each train, the remaining three outputs of SBrick are reserved for front tail light ("A" and "B" end of train) and indoor lights.
  14. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    Yeah, the two above photo was taken when the real thing was moving in the background (freight trains rarely stop at tracks with platforms, and even when they stop, the locomotive surely won't be next to the platform, on the other hand I was going for open lines, not train stations :) ), and by the time both the V63 and Railjet arrived it get darker and my photo machine needed more than 1/500 sec to take the photo. Last weekend I shot couple of videos about my finished FLIRT trains - finally at last the yellow-green colored train got an SBrick, so now the three differently colored EMU can work nicely together. I tested them in different configurations by running, and I found that even a non-working motor unit can be pulled with a working one or with two working ones in "sandwich" configuration. Good to know, if the batteries die in one of them, they can still be pulled to the next station for changing the batteries inside.
  15. Ashi Valkoinen

    MOCs: Models of trains running in Hungary

    I took some photos during the last weeks, trying to capture my LEGO trains with their REAL sisters. To take this photo with Ganz V63 locomotive was quite easy, the only thing I had to do is wait next to a busy line until it appears with a freight train: Railjet train wasn't a hard task to find, but I had only one hour to go out for the photo and the first place where I planned to take the photo was unreachable, someone blocked with huge rocks the old road leading there. I had no plan "B" for this so I quickly decided to go to the nearest train stop, but railjets do not stop there and that stop was in shadows by the time I got there. And ÖBB sent this train with reversed locomotive, showing it's black end on the front and braking the nice red color pattern going through on the side of this train: The hardest photo was my new BVmot train, there were only three sets of them produced, BVmot 001 was stored at an engine shed, BVmot 002 was stored far away from me and BVmot 003 ran on daily routine, but not with her cars. Fortunately the guys at the engine shed were kind to let me in for a photo - BVmot 001, one of her middle cars (2nd class) and her driving car (Bmxtz 001) was present, so I could take this photo: I haven't stopped building train, I'm currently working on the Siemens Vectron locomotive of GySEV / ROeEE railway company, and the FLIRT3 train of the same company. FLIRT3 won't be the only Stadler vehicle under contruction, the 6-carriage MÁV Stadler KISS should be ready until the end of 2018!