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Found 23 results

  1. Today I present my LEGO version of the famous German VT 11.5 Trans Europ Express – or just TEE. If you want to know a bit more about the real train, wikipedia helps: (Picture used with kind permission of Ulrich Budde © It took me a while to finalize this model but I was busy on my building desk the last couple of weeks. From the specifications: 6 units in total (2 engine units and 4 waggons) 3 Power Functions train motors (2 in the front engine unit, on in the back) LEGO LED lights for the train front and end lights 7-wide (my favourite width for LEGO MOC trains) total length ca. 2.5 meters runs through standard LEGO track geometry (even if it looks silly), I prefer BrickTracks curves and TrixBrix/4DBrix switches custom LEGO parts: none modified LEGO parts: 2x 2x4 tile with the TEE logo by yellow sticker on the coupling cover from an old LEGO sticker sheet Non-LEGO items – a piece of red tape to cover the center LED on the nose – interior lights using mini battery powered LEDs (source: ebay, search for "LED mini fairy string light") – Trans Europ Express decal by in scale 1:45 It started all with the idea to use two Brick, Round Corner 3 x 3 x 2 Dome Top for the characteristic nose of the engine units. A much bigger challenge were the grey-silver stripe which swings from the lower front lights up to the driver's cabin. For a long time I favoured a solution using rigid hoses, but it didn't work out and the hose did not "swing". So I ended with the plate variant, at least I did not build any steps. I also realised the round bull's-eye windows. The first one has to be located as close as possible to the end of the tan section. So the arched brick helped here. We still miss an element which fits between the 1 x 3 x 2 arch and the larger 1 x 6 x 3 arch. But I found a solution using curved solpes covering most of that gap. I am still stuggling with the right colour of the roof section behind the driver's cabin. Originally it should be light bluish grey (same colour as the stripe). But in real live all the grime from the exhausts makes this roof look more dark/dirty. So I also build a dark bluish grey variant. Both can be swaped easily and this feature allows easy access to the rechargeable battery box. Which colour do you prefer for this roof section? The rest of the roof also was a nice building experience using some SNOT. I wanted to use dopple-cheese pieces and curves slopes. And the roof should become 7 studs wide. That did not equal out fine so I had to use vertical tile on both sides of the middle brick column. The picture explains the rest of that SNOT nightmare … But now enjoy some pictures: More pictures in various sizes on Flickr! Best regards, Holger
  2. Models in this thread: #1: Wrecker (60056 MOD) #2: Container Truck (60027 MOD) #3: Ice Cream Truck (70804 MOD) Hi all, while everybody seems to be freaking out about "alternate models a 7-10 year old could build" I have a different suggestion to make: alternate models for grown-ups - we're AFOLs after all, aren't we? Of course what I'm thinking of are no real alternates - you will have to add quite a few parts. But what you - hopefully - get are more elaborate City vehicles that are supposed to go well with the modulars. As we all know Town vehicles are primarily designed for Children, they lack the complexity of the CC buildings. On the other hand they often have attractive colour designs plus great functional elements that are worth preserving. Thus what I'll try to do is to modify some vehicles according to the following rules: using the typical design elements of Town vehicles (windscreens, mudguards etc.) omitting most of the studs fixing holes where possible keeping all that’s nice and replacing all that’s too simple using not too fancy building techniques, models must be easy to reproduce use of stickers from the set allowed keeping or even enhancing the playability functions must be functions, devices shouldn’t be movable just by hand seating at least one fig - but under no circumstances in the center of the cockpit ;-) 100% Lego, no third party stuff allowed By saying no fancy techniques there is one - very important - exception: the wheels (but more on that subject later). This is the actual range of widths I'm building all my vehicles in: #1: 60056 Custom Wrecker The original model of this wrecker (see is one of my favourite town sets of the actual range. I really love its nice colour scheme plus there are some great design elements which I've tried to preserve as you may see. As said, wheels are very important in my opinion, that's why I try to avoid the usual City wheel/mudguard combination which leads to a certain monotony in town layouts, especially due to the fact that the same combination is being used on passenger cars and on trucks which makes no sense to me. Thus I try to use as many combinations as possible. Another advantage of this is that you get different types of wheels with many different diameters suitable for quite a few purposes. Another important aspect of this model is functionality - a tow truck should be usable for towing purposes. The original set is already quite functional, however, I wanted to have separate functions for the boom and for the lifting cradle. Plus both should be functions in the above mentioned sense, that means, not just movable by hand. That's why some technical stuff is built in - which is much easier with a 7w than a 6w form factor, as you may recognize. That's the way it works: Thanks for looking, some more pics on my Flickr. More vehicles to come.
  3. Greeting. Metropolitan Police, Public Order Van. Mercedes Sprinter. by PUCI2, 於 Flickr This is a model of public order van of the Territorial Support Group of the Metropolitan Police Service in UK, it is a Mercedes-Benz Sprtiner. I see most police forces used standard van (i.e. constant width), but this tailored made box caught my attention, as this type of design is usually used on ambulance, not police vehicle. I still see this van in service in August 2016 when I was visiting London briefly. The van is a 6-wide cab with a 7-wide box. It can carry up to 6 persons comfortably,and is fitted with a sliding door that is made purely on plate, tile and bricks, I did not use Technic parts for the sliding door as they tend to break easily. 20161119_164921 by PUCI2, 於 Flickr20161119_164150 by PUCI2, 於 Flickr 20161119_164222 by PUCI2, 於 Flickr 20161119_164645 by PUCI2, 於 Flickr British livery 2016-11-19_10-48-52 by PUCI2, 於 Flickr 20161119_165935 by PUCI2, 於 Flickr The white van is based on the Bath Police (Avon and Somerset Constabulary) which was posted on EB 2 years ago. It had gone several major changes. I have not used any sticker in most of my projects, as I am not good at designing or applying stickers. Recapturing the livery using lego bricks therefore makes it more challenging and fun. I am pleased with these 2 MOC. For more, please visit my flickr.
  4. Regional-Express with Bombardier doubledeck coaches and a Siemens Vectron engine Today I am presenting my new train set which is a typical German Regional-Express with doubledeck coaches and a modern electric loco. These trains can be found all over the place in Germany and some years ago I used one of the to comute to work. Since then I had the idea in mind to build a LEGO model of this train. The train consists of 3 Bombardier doubledeck coaches (one with the streamlined end cap) and a modern Siemens Vectron electric engine (you can find the original at The train is build in 7-wide and is powered by Power Functions and two train motors in the bogies of the engine. The Deutsche Bahn company does not use the Vectron engine to push or pull regional trains like this one but I felt that the "grill" structure on the head of the Vectron engine is a nice challenge to be captured in LEGO bricks. The most challenging part was in fact the end cap of one of the doubledeck coaches. Using various curved slopes I ended up in a result which is not perfect, but close to the original shape (see it at At least I've avoided the non-curved 75° slope bricks which would have been to square-edged for the latest version of the end cap. The design phase started with the windows of the upper deck. They have a very iconic bend in the lower half of the window. And I also wanted to have a complete brick-build red-colored frame around the window. The lower part of the window are transparent cheese-corners with the higher side facing outside. The bended part of the window is a SNOT transprent panel which is attached to a Technic hole somewhere inside the coach. The upper red window frame is build using the thin part of a 1x2 - 2x4 bracket element. Unfortunatelly the 1x2 plate of this bracket is facing right inside the interior so I had to modify the minifigs a little bit. The display on each side of the coaches between the lower and upper deck has an offset of 1/2 a plate height and again the thin part of a bracket was used to cover the small gap which is left over when a 1-stud-wide subgroup is build in SNOT wise. Videos I took two short, bad videos just to prove that this train is running. At the end of the "push"-video the power of the batteries died. Pictures You can find more pictures in my Flickr album Enjoy and happy new year to all of you in the Train forum! Holger
  5. Somewhere between talking to CommanderWolf about boxcabs, seeing his HH1000, and reading up on old diesel-electric locomotives on the internet, I somehow got the idea to build a model of the very first production diesel-electric locomotives in the United States. These locomotives were produced by a consortium of three companies: ALCo, General Electric, and Ingersoll-Rand. Diminutive as they were (this model represents a 60-ton, 300hp locomotive), they are the direct ancestors of the diesel-electric locomotives powering the US rail system today. As far as I can tell, only three locomotives were actually built with this specific layout: CNJ #1000, B&O #1, and Lehigh Valley 100. Later models featured doors at both ends in addition to the sides; in addition, larger 100-ton versions were built. They could run in either direction, although there are distinct ends and sides: the above image shows the "B" side and "2" end (which I consider the "rear" of the locomotive). I went into construction pretty set on equipping this locomotive with Power Functions while still building an accurate model (at the same scale as the rest of my locomotives). While there are examples of very small Power-Functions-equipped locomotives, I was pretty much dead-set against using the Power Functions train motor -- the locomotive would be too fast, and I wouldn't be able to accurately model the trucks. So, I had to fit motor(s), battery box, and receiver into the shell of the locomotive: As usual, the Power Functions receiver turned out to be the biggest bugbear in this whole adventure. Its shape is extremely inconvenient. While there is just barely enough room to fit Power Functions M motors vertically inside the locomotive above the trucks, placing them would imply that the battery box would have to go between them ... leaving no room for the receiver. I was not going to accept powering only one of the trucks (for a model this light, you need all the traction you can get). The locomotive is not long enough to orient the M motors any other way, so I turned to the trusty 9V gearmotor instead. However, I determined that, even using that motor, there wasn't enough room inside the model for both two motors and the receiver. It was around this point that I decided that 7-wide was the correct width for the model, to avoid it looking too big (it also resulted in better proportions for the windows at the end of the locomotive). At 7-wide, there are only 5 studs of width inside the locomotive, of which 4 studs are taken up by the battery box. The transmission would have to either be 1 stud wide, or I would have to integrate panels into the side of the locomotive in the hopes of hiding the gearing. So what did I do? Restrictions breed creativity: (chain doesn't connect correctly due to LDD difficulties) Turns out, the entire drivetrain can be made to fit into the space available using a chain. The grey idler wheel attaches to a 1x2 brick with pin in the wall of the locomotive. Other parts of the drivetrain are similarly integrated with the body, and the motor and battery box form integral parts of the model's frame. The Power Functions receiver just barely fits in this awkward position above the gears on the non-motor end, and receives signals through a trans-black 1x2 brick on the roof: It is actually a pretty decent puller despite its small size (it is the "AGEIR" listed in this thread; the power rating has since risen to ~0.2W after I carefully lubricated and reassembled the entire drive system). Oddly for a PF-equipped locomotive, it is possible to back-drive the motor by pushing the locomotive, due to the low mechanical resistance of the 9V gearmotor. An additional side "benefit" of the drive system is that the chain makes a pleasant diesel-like clicking/rumbling sound when the locomotive is in motion. As troublesome as all these restrictions (that I placed on myself...) were, I really enjoyed figuring out how to fit all the mechanical components into such a small space, while still maintaining an accurate depiction of the prototype. It just goes to show what's possible using Power Functions. Brickshelf gallery here. If you're curious about the history of these locomotives, you can read about them here.
  6. Hi All, I have building question which I am hoping that you great train builders can help me with. I have decided to make my 6 wide carriages into 7 wide This is great as I can now have two rows of seats in the carriages. BUT, I can seem to me the ends work. I need an end door that is 3 studs wide. I have tried some snot techniques including a 1x1 brick and 5 plates to make up the remaining 2 stud width and have dabbled with all vertical plates but have a 1/2 plate width left each side. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance Yogi
  7. Hi all, this is a suggestion of a range of widths of vehicles suitable to be used within a town in "larger city scale", as I call it, meant to go well with the larger CC buildings like PC, GE or FB. In fact it's no exact scale (which would be very difficult) but a possibility to get a graduation between different types of vehicles supposed to go well with each other. From right to left: Roadster (6w), fits 2 figs side by side. Oldtimer car (6w+ = 6w plus mudguards), fits 2 figs side by side, usual measure of vintage cars. There are vintage cars fitting 3 figs, too. Offroader (modded 4437 SUV, probably my favourite City car, 6w+), fits 1 fig, just to show that this kind of TLG car goes well with the MOCs. Sports car (6w+), due to the special design this car (Mad Max Interceptor, recently shrinked from 7w+ to 6w+) only fits one driver and one dog which is sufficient here, this type of car is also possible with 2 figs side by side. Full-size car (7w), fits 3 or even 4 figs, as an LCS slot car the Checker Cab is equipped with steering and rear suspension. Full-size car, long vehicle (7w), the Ecto-1 fits 4 ghostbusters. Bus (7w+), the usual size of trucks and buses, the School Bus fits a whole bunch of figs, Monorail trains have the same width. Oversize truck (8w+), fits 2 figs, not to be used within the city where plain 8w vehicles don't seem to work, but as an ARFF the Faun will rarely be seen there. 8w will probably be the width of trains, too. Will be continued. Some types of vehicles are still missing, small cars like a Mini or 2 CV would probably have a width of 5w+, and there will be some trucks, too. Thanks for looking, c&c welcome as usual.
  8. 4/4/2015, EDIT: This thread has turned into some weird hybrid of a WIP and a 'let's see where I went wrong' thing. I've requested a name change to better reflect that. ~~~ I'm just gonna kill this project now before I regret my decisions: This is what happened when I tried to combine the styling of a 7-wide model from legoman666 ( http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=102535 ) and the mechanics/internal design of an 8-wide model from Commander Wolf ( http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=106654 ). Kudos to both of them for being willing to answer questions via PM, by the way! So, what went wrong? It turns out that you actually need to plan things if you want to do a 7-wide, because there's no good way to try and cram a what I assumed to be 6-wide internal structure into a 7-wide and have anything actually work out right. OH WELL. Could I save this? Maaaaybe, if I was willing to spend way more time than I have on it. Am I going to? Nope. The internal drive system consists of a AA battery box mounted vertically, with two L-motors driving a single four-axle truck each. There's a PF switch crammed in there as an extension lead/motor reversing switch, because I didn't realize until now that the trucks worked against each other if they got turned around by accident. Each drivetrain consists of a 20t bevel driving a 12t bevel, which then drives a series of 12t bevels to bring the power down into the trucks, giving a ratio of 3:5 for in-to-out. If I could somehow lop off everything behind the end of the 6x12 panel and still keep the fancy drivetrain, I'd be happy with the proportions; doesn't look like that's possible, so I'll be moving to a more traditional vertically-mounted motor setup without the extra gears. Maybe losing the extra gears will balance out in that I won't be losing nearly as much power to those gears, so the pulling power and speed will be somewhat similar? On my relatively small test loop, it'll pull five of the six Horizon Express cars (the sixth is the one with the motor and no battery, left out because I already have this engine to test with) plus the two container cars from the Maersk at a reasonable speed. Wheel slippage is definitely a problem, though I suspect it's because all the weight is in the center from the battery box and lack of body structure. The final revision I was envisioning before going to scrap the model would have ended up with the large plates on the side acting as a monocoque skin holding everything together. Leave your ridicule and/or constructive criticism below. Here's a cat picture to make it better:
  9. Phoxtane

    Getting Started in 7-Wide?

    I feel like making the move to 7-wide will help with the creative rut I'm in regarding trains. It should in theory allow me to fit more inside a train engine, which'll give me space to insert things like L-motors and PF battery boxes without the compromises that have to be made in 6-wide. Does anyone have basic tips or tricks to use when making the transition? I know that train weight will go up, but pulling power/speed should go up accordingly as well, and that I'll need to build bigger and with more pieces... However, I feel like I'm missing more to the puzzle of 7-wide than that. For example, how would I go about making the train baseplates and centering the bogies within those? Any help with this would be appreciated. As it is, I'm only at the house once a week for an evening (thanks college) and I don't have hardly any time to build anyway, but I figure that LDD will help scratch that itch as well.
  10. Horsecar As I was researching my PCC Streetcar I kept on coming across two blurry sepia tinged images of one of the earliest streetcars in Kansas City's transport history. So before I could build the latest KC Streetcar (a UBOS 3) I knew I had to build a MOC of this. I had no idea as to the original color scheme so I decided to abdicate and take black and white pictures. These were light vehicles with a narrow gauge. As the track were laid on dirt and bare rock derailments were a common occurrence. When these happened the male passengers were expected to disembark and shove the carriage back onto the track while the females remained inside. During later years the revenue from tickets would reach $250,000 and the proceeds from the sale of Manure $10,000 - so I had to ensure that I included the obligatory bucket and shovel. Drivers were expected to work 15 hours a day, 7 days a week in all weathers in an open carriage for about 8c/hour pay. The horses were luckier in that they were worked for 4-6 hours through the day. Given the working conditions the smile on this guy seems a little too fixed. Comments, criticism and ridicule welcome!
  11. 7-wide Camper I managed to grab a discounted 60057 recently and having checked out Rufus's review http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=89850 I agree with some of the comments that the rear is too plain, and there's something wrong with the wheel arches (they lowered the rear one by one plate to accommodate the opening side. Furthermore as a 6-wide it just looked too narrow so over the last couple of days I started ripping it to pieces and making it a full 7-wide. I began my modding the rear. I added the bumpers, the ladder, the spare tire, the rear window onto the 7-wide frame. Then to the side I fixed the wheel arch problem (by removing them completely from the rear), added an opening door, and a rolled up awning to the roofline. I left the front of the vehicle as the original set and now we're ready for adventure in the great outdoors! Comments, criticism and ridicule most welcome! Edit: Antp asked in one of the comments about changing the windows to 2x2's. Here's that image
  12. eurotrash

    MOC: Street Car/Tram

    Street Car / Tram I've been working on this for a while and to be honest I've struggled with scale. It started as a six-wide, got rebuilt as a seven-wide (fragile), then rebuilt again as an eight-wide (it looked enormous, but was structurally robust). Then I went back to a six-wide and added a 9v motor. I've also gone through a couple of iterations of window sizes - from 2x2's to 2x3's and back to 2x2's. But something still didn't quite look right so in the end I Bricklinked an order and built two versions so I could see them side by side and compare them. Here's the 6-wide version. It's powered by the 9v motor. Here's the 7-wide. It's currently unpowered and sits on a false bogie, but is easily modded to hold the 9v. And here's a comparison shot of the two together. So which one do you think I should send to the inventory bins? and which one should I use? Or should I scrap them both and start again? Comments, criticism, and ridicule most welcome.
  13. UrbanErwin

    [MOC] Switch Engine UW

    Hello all, I want to present you all my newest MOC: Switch Engine UW [front/right] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr It is an switcher for railyards. The build is 7 studs wide. Switch Engine UW [front/left] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW [back] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW It is used by the fictional company UW. As you can see my sticker skills are far from perfect. Thanks for reading, Comments, constructive criticism and likes are always appreciated. Erwin by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr
  14. eurotrash

    MOC: Caravans

    Lego Caravans Summer's here! And what better way to start it off by building a couple of Caravans. I'd been struggling with a Chicken Bus based on the Harry Potter Knight Bus. My first attempts looked like an Eggplant with Windows, then it morphed into a fairly decent looking 7-wide Transit bus. But it still wasn't what I was hoping for so I started again from scratch and built this caravan. It's 7-wide, 22 studs long and although the color scheme looked a bit loud I'm pleased with the outcome. There are exterior lights, steps, a roof mounted AC unit, an awning currently rolled up ( ), a couple of Gas bottles on the front tongue, but it currently has no interior. Then as part of my forthcoming Trailer Park I had to build another one and I stumbled across RTN LNA's instructions for an Airstream on another site ( I knew I just had to build it. The door was tricky and I slightly changed the connection method for the roof and the two ends and added the AC unit/TV antenna but otherwise it's his plans that I used and they are well recommended. So grab a cold one and join me around the campfire! Comments, criticism and ridicule most welcome.
  15. Flare

    [MOC]: 7-Wide Sports Car

    Hi everyone! I haven't built much lately, but this is a 7-stud wide sports car that I built back in March, and I just re-found the pictures and decided to crop, 'shop, and upload! Thanks for viewing :) The car isn't based on anything in real life, it's just a vehicle from my imagination. License plate number blurred out, as all proper photographers know. True - there are no doors, but I suppose that makes riding in it even more fun! As you can plainly see here, the car is 7 studs wide. Why 7-studs wide, you might ask? Well, first off, it enables the cool red stripe to be done easier. Secondly, in my humble opinion it fits two minifigures much more accurately than any other scale. 8-wide also is acceptable, but a little wide in my opinion, for the average car. The steering wheel and related stuff that allow you to drive all proper like. The underneath. (oh, the suspense!) No suspension, sorry. And yes that 2x3 plate is sort of pointless, I'm not sure why I threw it on. I suppose it helped it to be sturdier. In the end it was a pretty sturdy little car. THIS IS SPARTA!!! This wasn't actually intended to be a joke or something (it's not punny, anyways), I just wanted to demonstrate how nicely a LEGO fig fits inside the car. (and show off one of my mint Spartans... ) Another shot with the spartan to show how nicely the fig fits in. I should've taken a photo or two with 2 figures, but I didn't think about it, and this creation is from March as I already said, so oh well. Thanks for viewing my creation! I hope to have uploaded a few more creations from this year, before the year of twenty-thirteen ends :) Constructive criticism and pure praise appreciated ;) You can also view this at: The brickshelf folder (when moderated) MOCpages Flickr!
  16. Hi all, here's another 7w full-size car, a 1987 Ford Crown Victoria: The car fits 2 whole minifigs. It's got a detachable roof to get the figs in and out. Another perspective: Now if you wonder what's so special about a 1987 Ford Crown Victoria, maybe you know these two little guys: You're right, it's meant as the famous "POS" car from "Men in Black I". Hope you like it! C&C welcome as usual.
  17. Henchmen4Hire

    Noble M15

    Not that many people seem to like the supercars I made up, so here's a real one, a Noble M15. Noble M15 by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr Noble M15 by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr Noble M15 by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr Noble M15 by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr
  18. imvanya

    [LDD MOC] City cars

    Hello again, I'm back with some more of my LDD creations, and quite a lot of them. Let's get right to it! 1. What I've got here are a station wagon and a hatchback versions of the car from the set 4435. Not much creativity was involved, but I thought it would be nice to give LEGO citizens some choice) If you have a big family, it's nice to be able to buy something with more room in the back, like a station wagon. And if you don't need a car that big, a hatchback is the best option) 2. But those are just your average cars, what if you have some extra money and want others to know that? Then you will definitely love this one, a huge executive sedan: 3. What's that? You have some extra extra money? You should look no further, as we have just the thing you need - a limousine! 4. But what if you don't even live in a city and those shiny modern cars, let alone the limos, are too fancy for you? Don't worry, we've got you covered. These are cars from the good old days of big engines and cars made of steel, not plastic) And if the roads are too bad even for this truck, just raise it a bit and put bigger tires on: 5. Now let's not forget that young people want to have cars, too. But more often than not it's speed not practicality that they look for. I say, let them have what they want: (A little sidenote: I've built these two 6-wides a few month before the 60007 appeared and it's just unbelievable, how similar they are) 6. Obviously, you can't have people driving around like madmen all the time, so - a police car (another sidenote - this one wouldn't fit a minfigure, but the scale seems to be OK) 7. Police aren't enough? How about the military, more specifically, a guy from the miltary? He's not just "a guy", though, he's a green beret, so he can handle a bunch of speeding kids: 8. And finally, something for the businesses - commercial cars: (Yes, another car to not fit a minfigure. The scale is pretty good, though, and I just wanted to test my SNOT skills) That's all! Let's hope everyone's happy and got what he needed) And remember - speed limits are there for a reason and a green beret is not someone you want to mess with EDIT: uploaded the .lxf files to Brikshelf, so here are the links. All of the 4-wides and both muscle cars are in this file, 4-wide 4x4s are here. Here are the hot rod, 6-wide truck, 7-wide truck, 6-wide 4x4 and police cruiser
  19. imvanya


    Hey, everyone! This time I present to you another one of my favorites (I built it, of course I like it) - a 7-wide SUV: I've seen a couple of 7-wide SUV and pick-up trucks on LEGO forums a couple of times and really liked the idea, just enough to try to build one myself. That was tricky, but it turned out pretty good. A link to a bunch more pics on my flickr EDIT: Brickshelf's finally up again so here's a link to the .lxf file
  20. Hi Acrylnitril-Butadien-Styrol-Copolymerisat-Fans, this is my new Project. A San Francisco Cable Car in minifig-scale, 7w, gauge of the track 3w And now.. Pictures - Pictures The original Thanks for looking - i hope you like it
  21. Hi all, being a car builder mainly I am working on some background for the cars, and when I was offered a monorail I thought this might fit with what I am actually planning. In my view the monorail can be integrated very well in smaller city layouts, but I wanted to have something that moves more realistically than the usual monorail trains with their high speed and abrupt stops. So I opted for a MR with PowerFunctions that can move very slowly. And since most of the cars are 7 studs wide to be able to fit the figs side by side, the train has the same width. Functions: - working headlights and backlights (PF) - interior lighting (9V) - openable front door (manually) - detachable roofs The train is quite heavy (around 0,6 kilogrammes) but that doesn't seem to be a problem, neither for the engine nor the tracks - until now, that is. I am watching these aspects thoroughly. The train is controlled by an 8879 Speed Remote Control. Capacity: 10 minifigures. My main inspiration was the amazing 6w Monorail Berlin Subway Train by Brucewaynelego-Toyshansolo, see There are some similarities between my train and the Berlin Subway Trains of the Twenties. Thanks for looking, C&C welcome as usual. More pics: Interior: Street Scene with Monorail:
  22. Hi all, at the end of 2011 there was the first Police Interceptor, and there was a second one in 2012, which was derived from the Tumbler. Now I thought it might be a nice tradition to build one Police Interceptor each year. The PI 2013 is derived from the Chevy Impala, see http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=78902: It fits 2 cops (with caps) at the front and one suspect at the rear. At first I thought the new cop caps wouldn't fit, but then I modified the roof a little and now they fit, although the cops do not sit fully straight, but for me it's okay: Here you can see it in action. The street needs some traffic stuff, and I'd rather have brickbuilt motorbikes, but well ... Thanks for looking, c&c welcome as usual.
  23. [Edit, 16 February 2013] Another version: Impala Lowrider (the yellow one), see this post. [Edit, 03 February 2013] Picture of the finished MOC, see this post, too: [/Edit] Hi all, another huge American car, still a WIP though. But it might be interesting to see how this will turn out. Don't care about the inappropriate fig, it's just a test driver. The car will be given to a more glamourous fig for sure ... As you might know my idea is that a Lego car should fit 2 figs side by side, so I prefer the 7w building style (although you can do that with a 6w car, too, if it has the thin doors). The car has nearly the same frame as the Cadillac Fleetwood (see http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=78281), but due to the smaller wheels it is possible to have suspension now. There's enough room within the frame for the wheels to move up and down (at the front more than at the back, to be honest). Furthermore the bracket-and-tile building style allows to set down the windscreen to get a nicer silhouette (same with the Caddy). At least in the 6 and 7-wide department there's often a problem to find the proper windscreen. You may use slopes instead, but then the figs can't see where they are going ... Here they can look out properly. Rims are custom chrome, of course. I try to avoid it where I can (the Caddy doesn't have any), but here it's important. C&C welcome as usual, more to come ... Thanks for looking.