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Showing results for tags 'tread'.
Found 4 results
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ASSAULT3R: An EV3 Assault Vehicle
StudRobotics posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
This is ASSAULT3R, a Lego Mindstorms EV3 Assault Vehicle. After getting a second Lego EV3 set, I knew that I had to build something awesome. Features RWD and Steering Ultrasonic Sensor Infrared Sensor Two Color Sensors Dual Ball Shooters Gullwing Doors Detailed Interior and Exterior The ASSAULT3R's front sports red lights that will strike fear in enemies and their machines. Its dual ball shooters will shoot a total of six Lego balls, three for each side, high or low. That's twice the weaponry used by EV3RSTORM. The gullwing doors allow easy access for operators and it makes the ASSAULT3R look futuristic yet sinister. I had a lot of fun building this, and I'm very happy with the result. And of course, here are some photos as always. -
Drive Train for Heavy Treaded Vehicle
mxp posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi Everyone, I have a pretty heavy model that I would like to put on treads. The final model will probably weigh something around 12-15kg. The model is also supposed to move at a certain speed (around 10cm per second). As a result I think I will need to combine several PF XL motors to get the necessary torque and speed. In my opinion I have 2 options: Option 1: Adders + Subtractor I would connect several PF XL motors via adders for torque and then a subtractor for steering. I think I would need to heavily (9:1) gear up each motor before the differentials because the small 12 tooth bevel gears in the differentials (for adders and subtractor) don't handle torque very well. So I would first gear up and then, behind the subtractor gear down, so that I get more torque again. Advantage: Model can go straight (thanks to the subtractor); No hard-coupling (motors won't suffer) Disadvantage: A lot of power from the motors gets lost because there are so many gears. I'm not sure how fast lego gears and axles can spin for a long time without breaking (PF XL motor 200rpm with 9:1 gear up = 1800rpm) Option 2: Several PF XL motors on each tread I would have multiple sprocket wheals for each tread that is driven by a PF XL motor. Advantage: Simpler construction; less power loss Disadvantage: Hard-coupled motors (coupled through the tread links); model never goes straight because all motors won't turn at exactly the same speed. My question is, do any of you have experience with very heavy treaded models? What's the best way to drive them? (so that they can go straight) How many PF XL motors would I roughly need for a 12-15kg model? Thanks for your help and let me know if my description of the problem doesn't make sense :) -
I am doing some rendering in POV-Ray, and I am overall pleased with the results. Most parts have nice reflective surfaces; however, I found that non-reflective parts, especially tires, are rendered as shiny objects. Is there a means to have only tires rendered in a matte-finish, so as to give a more realistic appearance?
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- POV-Ray
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[WIP] Snowmobile (driven by 2 x 5292)
freakwave posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Finally my first MOC-post here in this forum! Since some days we've got some snow again and that calls for some LEGO outdoor activities. As my snow-groomer is in a state that would require serious work, I decided to go on something simpler, a snow-mobile. Problem with LEGO motors is that they are a bit slow. But hey, there was the RC-Buggy in the corner! So the RC motors and the unite became the base of the snowmobile. Dry tests proved it to be quite powerful and drive the track very fast! The RC motors are mechanically coupled and interestingly I had first issue with this coupling. Putting the speedometer on them I discovered that some RC Motors have less RPM than others, but those two "flavors" of 5292 have among them pretty stable RPMs so after swapping them to two of the same, it drove perfect. So here's the first result of the outdoor capable Snowmobile. Working right now on the steering which is a bit tricky. Due to the slanted steering column the skis cut into the snow aleady, which is good. But to have it turn properly it should shift the weight a bit, i.e. lean into the turn. In real life the human on top help to perform this feat, here, something simple needs to be developed. The first tries nearly achieved this as due to a short rod, it pulld the legs up when turning too far! Here are some pictures and a video: