Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About 2GodBDGlory

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    8262 Quad Bike

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location


  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 2GodBDGlory

    [PORSCHE] 962 C Le Mans racer in 1:8,5

    When I first saw this model, I assumed it would be a pretty-looking racecar model, but instead it has seriously impressive functionality, as well as a good bodywork! There are also a lot of interior details that add to the model. Good work!
  2. 2GodBDGlory

    Broken V2 Receiver Advice

    Hmm. I don't have a multimeter, but maybe I could borrow one.
  3. That is very impressive! The size is unbelievable, and it looks like it must have been very tedious to build. The audacity of both your project and the historic one are commendable.
  4. 2GodBDGlory

    Broken V2 Receiver Advice

    I think that there are capacitors (If I remember correctly from grade 10 science, they are the cylindrical components with two leads on the one end?), and I could possibly replace those with ones from a broken V1 receiver I have. They have a different appearance, though, so they may be different between the two versions.
  5. 2GodBDGlory

    Broken V2 Receiver Advice

    Okay, that makes sense I may have to, thankfully, prices have dropped since I last checked a year or two ago. I think it does this with all batteries, but I am not sure. I can check Thanks for the advice!
  6. I was wondering if I could get any advice on ways I could fix a V2 receiver of mine. I got it from a used 9398 Crawler a few years ago, and ever since I got it, it has had a couple of serious "quirks." The first, and most obvious, one is that the red output only runs Servo motors and LEDs, but no other motors. This is annoying, but since my MOCs usually have at least one Servo, I can work around it. The second problem is that if the drive motor is put under too much stress, the motor slows down as if it had a brake being applied to it, and the receiver starts to emit a squealing sound. If I stop sending IR signals and wait a second or two, the system resets, and I can drive again until the receiver gives up again. Right now I have it in a Quad Bike model with a single Buggy motor for drive, powered from a PF rechargeable box, and it will drive mostly fine on a hard floor, but only for a few seconds on carpet. I have taken the receiver apart and had a look inside, and tried to clean a few things up, but there is no improvement. If anyone has any advice about the cause of this problem, I would appreciate it. I have a soldering iron, and I'm not afraid to use it.
  7. 2GodBDGlory

    Technic 2021 Set Discussion

    Yep, the Jeep Wrangler absolutely still has two live axles. In North America, at least, the light-duty vehicle world has only four dual-live axle vehicles left: the Ford Super Duty trucks, the Ram heavy duty trucks, the Jeep Wrangler, and the Wrangler's pickup variant, the Jeep Gladiator. It is certainly possible for Lego to fit in the suspension at this scale. See this model of the same car at similar, if not smaller, scale. I certainly hope they include it, since it is a very characteristic feature of the Wrangler. It would be all too easy for them to simplify to a rear-wheel drive car with independent front suspension and a trailing arm rear, as in many other small off-roaders.
  8. 2GodBDGlory

    MOC Dodge Challenger 1970

    I quite like this! Great looks are joined with (presumably) solid performance. My favorite detail is the use of the radar dish on the rear axle to simulate the differential cover! I have often been annoyed that Lego solid axles rarely look like real ones, but that one detail does lots towards improving this!
  9. 2GodBDGlory

    Technic Power Box Mod to use 9v Power Supply

    I did a similar thing a while back, where I just took an old transformer (originally used for charging something or other), cut off the end, and attached the positive and negative ends to the positive and negative plates of a spare AA battery box. I now have it screwed onto the bottom of my desk, as a constant, switchable PF power supply!
  10. 2GodBDGlory

    2GodBDGlory's old MOCs

    Is what you're saying that Servos are drawing power while they are in the extreme positions? If so, it would not be a problem for this gearbox, because the way it works is that it rotates 90 degrees, pushes the gearbox into the next gear, and then returns to center without shifting anything, because it simply ratchets over the gears. By the way, I have since taken inspiration from other builders and made a far more compact and reliable gearbox with the same mechanism that can be used with those Chiron selectors--this old design is a little primitive, I think. Thanks for commenting!
  11. 2GodBDGlory

    Torque and power - some insights

    Fascinating video! I am glad I found the patience to watch it. Like you said, the coolest thing is finding the maximum possible power output for a Lego motor. Right now I am working on building a massive pickup truck with an 8-speed automatic gearbox. It has fully electronic control, with a Powered Up hub controlling both drive and shifting, and so I essentially have full control over when the shift points will be. Knowing this, I can fine-tune it to offer me the peak power! Sadly, I don't know if there are any spec charts for PU XL motors yet... Anyways, if nothing else, I discovered the real reason I need to study Calculus: To improve my Technic models! One less sophisticated, but very tough (suitable for a tractor, I suppose) 2-speed automatic can be found here:
  12. 2GodBDGlory

    2GodBDGlory's old MOCs

    Ford GT This is my best 1:8 supercar to date, in my opinion. It has eight independently controlled RC functions, including another 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox. About this creation Aesthetics: The car looks pretty good I think, though not perfect. There are some gaps in the back; those are just there because they are there on the real car. There are LED headlights, and the engine cover opens. Interior: The interior has three-way adjustable seats, which can slide forward and backwards and tilt the bottom and top parts independently. The steering wheel works, and the dashboard and central console are recreated from the real car. There is a speed indicator hidden inside the small black tire on the central console. Suspension: There is full independent suspension using two hard shocks per wheel (The hard shocks have grey tops) It is a little saggy. There is camber angle on all four wheels, and kingpin, castor, toe-in, and ackermann geometry on the front axle. Drive: The car is driven by two XL motors, through the rear wheels and the gearbox. It also drives a rear V6 piston engine. Steering: There is steering with a Servo motor. There are fancy angles mentioned in the suspension section, and a working steering wheel. Doors: Both butterfly doors can be opened using their own PF M-motor. There are manual locks to keep it in place when shut. Brakes: The disc brakes are powered by two small pneumatic cylinders, one on each axle.The discs are made from wedge belt wheels with small rubber track inserts in them, and the calipers employ two rubber axle joiners per wheel. The pneumatics are powered by a PF L-motor through an Autovalve, where it pumps and switches simultaneously, and the switching is controlled by the motor's direction. Gearbox: There is another 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox in this car. It is totally updated and now uses Chiron shifters. The gearboxes are now set on the sides, with the clutches in the middle, allowing for an efficient use of space. Formerly, both gearboxes were always running, as even when gearbox A's clutch was disengaged, it was still driven from it's output. Now, there are not only clutches on each gearboxes input, but also on the output, so as to maximize efficiency. There was a speed indicator hidden in the black tire in the central console, and the gearbox was driven by an L-motor. Track/Street modes: Just like the real car, my model can be switched from Street mode to Track mode. In street mode, the suspension is raised and the spoiler is down. In Track mode, the car is lowered and the spoiler is raised. Also like the real car, lowering the suspension hardens it up a lot (Mostly because it is only bending pieces at that point) This system is driven using another L-motor and pneumatic autovalve. The front axle uses a new really big cylinder, and the rear axle and spoiler each use an old large cylinder. Spoiler tilt: The spoiler can be tilted using a M-motor. It drives a worm gear which drives a 20T gear. This gear is the one in my collection that is the loosest on axles, which is important, since an axle connected to the spoiler must slide through it. Overall, I am very pleased with this model. It looked pretty good (For one of my cars!), functioned pretty well, and actually drove happily sometimes in most gears! As far as I know, it is also the first Technic supercar to use all eight RC channels! I think it is my personal best model! Please ask in the comments if you have any questions about how it works. You can see my (amateurish) video at this link: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/ford-gt Hummer H2 This is a very large Off-Roader, with the emphasis on functions, not performance. About this creation This is my first big, functional Off-Roader in ages, it seems, so I am glad to make this model. It isn't my most refined model, but it looks OK, and has interesting functions, and drives! Aesthetics: The model has a blocky body, like the real one does. There are opening doors, a swing-out spare tire, the rear liftgate, and a hood that I am ashamed to say opens the wrong way. (I discovered this late in the build process, and I was so short on grey (And just wanted to be done) that I left it that way) There is a simple interior, but with FIVE seats! Drive: There is 4WD with two XL motors. It could drive well in at least some gears. Steering: A Servo motor steers the front wheels. That's as fancy as it is. Winch: There is a winch driven by a PF L motor through a 24:1 worm ratio. I used a little trick to be able to manually slide an axle through the 24T gear and out of the winch piece (Which allows axles to slide through it). This allowed me to pop the hood, slide the thingie, quickly extend the winch, then reconnect it and power it back in. Adjustable suspension On Wikipedia I learned that the H2 has an "Adjustable rear suspension". I didn't know whether that meant height-adjustable or hardness-adjustable. I went with height, using a PF M-motor, a worm drive, and small levers connected to the rear shocks. The height difference was minimal. Suspension: There was front independent suspension, sprung using torsion bars (Like the real H2), and also rubber bands for extra stiffness. There was a rear live axle with two hard shocks. The front was longer travel than the rear. Wow. The pictures of the suspension are pitiful. Gearbox: There was a simple 4-speed sequential gearbox using the new Chiron shifters. It was shifted by an M-motor tucked in the front, driving some U-joints, which drove a stepper (Yes, that is a modified white knob wheel in the picture. In my defense, one of the knobs broke off naturally in the line of duty, so it isn't like I savagely mutilated a flawless element) There was a simple speed indicator. (Again, I gotta take more pictures. It also might not hurt to let the model survive at least 24 hours before I rip it to shreds and start on the next project. That way I could actually take MORE!) Drive Mode Selector: There is a fancy dancy drive mode selector that allows you to choose among 2WD High, 4WD High, 4WD Low, and 4WD Low all differentials Locked. This is controlled using a PF L-motor with a stepper. This stepper turns a longitudinal axle that controls the five variables. In each position it pushes an exact combination of variables, while the others are kept in their default position by rubber bands. I hope this makes sense. Overall, I think this was a cool model. I liked the drive mode thing, and the winch disconnect. It looked fine, drove decently, and was fun to make. The weight really hurt the performance. There is a video at: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/hummer-h2 Hennessey Velociraptor / Ford Raptor This is a model of the Ford Raptor and the Hennessey-modded version of it, the Velociraptor, which has an extra axle. About this creation This model is meant to be small, and a good Off-Roader. Hennessey Velociraptor This six-wheeled truck had lots of torque and good floatation for off-roading. It really could have used more ground clearance, though. Aesthetics: The model looks decent, and I think the FORD grill looks OK. It is pretty simple, but everything opens that should. The interior is very basic, lacking even a steering wheel. Suspension: There is front independent suspension with two hard shocks per wheel. The rear suspension is a live axle suspended with flex axles-- it was surprisingly responsive! There were also pendular bogies on the back, using small turntables Steering: There is a basic Servo front steering affair. Drive: Two XL motors drive all six wheels at a 9:1 ratio. There is a heavy duty universal joint in the back, and there are no differentials involved. Ford Raptor This was a modified one with a different rear suspension, which drove at a 1:1 ratio. It was a much worse off-roader, but was still [EDIT: The end of this sentence has been lost to history.] I have a YouTube video at IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/hennessey-velociraptor--ford-raptor 1:8 Honda Civic Type R This is my latest 1:8 supercar. It has a couple functions that are new to me. About this creation Aesthetics: I think the car looks pretty good, which is probably because it is a simpler looking car than, say, a Ford GT. [EDIT: Really? It may be simpler than a Ford GT, but I would go so far as to say that the CTR is notoriously hard to build, with all its random angles.] The windshield isn't raked enough, though. Opening stuff: The hood, doors, hatchback, fuel cap, glove box, and center console open, and there is a 60/40 folding rear seat. The front doors have a fancy auto-locking-when-you-shut-it lock, but the rear ones are simpler. Suspension: There is front independent suspension with four hard shocks and a torsion bar. This axle has castor, camber, and kingpin angles. There is rear multilink suspension with camber angle. (Dear me. I forgot to take bodyless pictures!) Drive: There is a transverse motor/engine/gearbox/differential setup for this front-drive car. It drives well in the lower five gears, and [EDIT: The end of this sentence is gone, too!] Steering: There is servo steering with Ackermann geometry and a working wheel. It cannot steer far, though. Brakes: There are four wheel disc brakes, as usual, powered by an L motor. There are also fake brakes that stay level when the wheels turn, like the ones in my Bugatti Chiron. Noisemaker: There is a M-motor geared 1:9 running an inline 2 piston engine to get some growls, like the rear one's louder exhaust setting. Adjustable hardness suspension: There is a long, skinny pneumatic cylinder on the rear axle and two small cylinders on the front axle, that harden the suspension when extended, and soften it when detracted. An M-motor powered an auto-compressor, like Sariel's design, to pump whenever the air pressure got too low, and another M-motor flipped a pneumatic valve. Gearbox: There was a six-speed sequential gearbox controlled using three Chiron shifters carefully synchronized, and a six-speed Overall, it looked good, had fun opening stuff, and drove well. I am happy with the gearbox, but the steering and adjustable suspension weren't the best. Sadly, I forgot to take some pictures I really should have. There is a Youtube video at: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/honda-civic-type-r
  13. Do you think my RC setup would modulate speed by varying the voltage? If so, I could block the trigger to prevent it from exceeding 9V.
  14. I have tried that, but it is mostly just a very bulky solution, that couldn't really fit in the light, compact models I wanted to use it in.
  15. Cool! I see that you used the steering module from the old RC sets, along with a PF Servo! That is a very unusual part usage these days, but it appears effective! As for the radio-control, I have a little experience with that sort of thing. My brother got a Foxx S911 RC truck a while back, and, despite a relatively low cost, it can allegedly hit 50 km/h! I was looking for some higher performance Lego stuff, so I spent about $50 CAD (more like $35 USD) to buy the complete electrical system from that truck from some replacement part outlet, and then modded the stuff to put it in Lego models. The main problem is that the original motor has way too high RPMs, so it will always destroy the first axle I attach to it, before I have a change to gear it down. Because of this, I am thinking of running my two Chinese Buggy motors off of that RC system (at 9.6V), with the original Servo, sometime.