2GodBDGlory

Well, it's true that the purple is pretty useless, but it is one of those sets that actually has hardly any of a color, and yet becomes kind of defined by it, so at least not too many of the parts are useless. It's also my only set from 2017, and I'd agree that it's the best one.

Very cool! That chassis looks nicely engineered, and the electronics and custom parts are always interesting. Your criteria for the bodywork make me laugh! "There are many things that can be improved in the bodywork, but the current one perfectly satisfy my needs: it is light but make the car somewhat recognizable as a car."

Very cool design!

I've just completed my 2022 addition to the book, with all of the new sets for this year added! Here is the link to the new version: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y67yGqrN190WPzZ2GDrCCMyIuSGi2HH3/view?usp=sharing As before, let me know if you spot any errors, or if this link isn't working!

Ah, thanks! I didn't think to check out-of-stock parts.

Huh, I'm not seeing them. One of these days!

Oh, good to know! I'll stop checking for the Jesko instructions for a while, then

Wow, good work! That looks very compact, and adds a great feature the original set was missing!

Yeah, me neither, looking on the US site.

I suppose you could make pretty much indefinitely long steering links by chaining beams together with suspension arms attached to them. It looks like an interesting model to design!

Something like that could work, but in my experimentation, a 1x4 plate was held significantly more securely.

One thing you could try is putting a 1x4 plate on top of the track link, and then attaching some kind of bars to the plate. It might not look as good, but the plate-to-track connection is fairly strong.

To clarify, it can go all the way through the middle hole, but the other four don't allow it to go through.

Yeah, I find that when using the small pumps, they'll just give up somewhere between 20 and 30 PSI, and just slip after that. I suppose you could add some kind of relief valve by hooking up a small cylinder to a valve, with a rubber band keeping it closed. If you got it tuned right, you could make it so that once the pressure got high enough, the cylinder would extend against the rubber band, open the valve, bleed pressure, and then shut it off again via the rubber band. It would be kind of like the auto-compressors people sometimes do, but with the opposite purpose! I've never gotten those compressors to work as well as I'd like, so I probably wouldn't try this. It'd probably be nasty to make reliable, and all the friction in the valve would be a challenge.

Huh, that's a thought! My first plan was to design a jig to reliably notch it with the Dremel tool, but it didn't seem to work great for me. It would be nice to come up with a reliable, automated way to do it.