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Found 5 results

  1. leafan

    Replacement String

    Hi everyone, I'm building a few old Castle sets from 2nd hand lots I've bought and often find that the string from the drawbridge is missing or broken. This type of string. I don't want to make an order on Bricklink for such a thing so does anyone have experience with replacing them from a major retailer like Amazon (especially UK), please? Hard to know what string to order without having it in my hands. Ideally, I want the same thickness and in black. A whole reel of it.
  2. Behold, the Stringatron -- the world's first high-energy LEGO string accelerator for both loops and open-ended strands... The Stringatron is all LEGO except for the string (1.5 mm twine and 3.0 mm paracord). String transport is done with a pair of pinch rollers. The lower roller is driven by a single RC Race Buggy motor (5292) powered by an old 9V train transformer. A twine loop 1.5 m in circumference running at full power exits the rollers at ~6.6 m/s (24 kph, or 0.000002% the speed of light). The string guides were the tricky part. v The linear actuator dials in launch angles between ~0° and ~85°. (The range can easily be shifted up or down as needed by moving the actuator attachments.) More photos and detailed write-up on MOCpages at http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/441459.
  3. Hi Everyone. I'd like to show you my GBC Module that I made called "To and Fro". Definition: to and fro /ˌto͞o ən ˈfrəo͝o/ adverb - in a constant movement backward and forward or from side to side. verb - move constantly backward and forward. noun - constant movement backward and forward. I wanted to design a GBC module that I hadn't seen done before. The main feature of this design uses a string and pulley system, with different levels of mechanical advantage implemented to get the timing of the mechanisms just right. This GBC module adheres to Type 1 of the GBC Standards, processing one ball per second on average (http://greatballcontraption.com/wiki/Standard). The main focus of this module is the 'ladder' in the middle which raises and lowers using string and pulleys. You can see this in the video between 1:48 and 2:04, and I'll try to describe what is happening. First of all, the end of the string is attached to the frame, and goes down to the cranks. The exact length of the string can be adjusted, similar to how guitar strings are tightened. The cranks have pulleys on them, so the string actually moves twice as far as the diameter of the cranks as they rotate, but at the same time the force is halved. Next, the string goes up to a pulley fixed on the frame, then down and around another pulley, and back up again. The bottom pulley is attached to the moving part of the 'ladder'. This halves the distance that the 'ladder' moves compared to the string, but also decreases the force required to do so. The string goes over another static pulley at the top, and then back down to the outside edge of the moving part of the 'ladder'. To move the outside edge of the 'ladder' requires the full force of the string to move. Due to the mechanical advantage of the different parts of the pulley system, the 'ladder' wants to move up first since this takes less force, but once it hits a stop at it's upper limit, the string then provides force to the outside edge of the 'ladder' which causes that last little 'kick', which lets the balls roll to the other side. This module can also be broken down into four smaller sections for easier transportation: The motor which is part of my Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System, The 'hopper' and 'ball diverter', The 'ladder', and The 'waterfall'. There is only one M-motor powering this module and that helps ensure the timing of each section is in sync with the next. The motor section is attached to the 'ladder' section with a universal joint, and the 'ladder' section is attached to the 'hopper' section with a CV joint. The 'waterfall' section doesn't need any motor input, so it is attached to the 'ladder' section with a single axle that allows it to be detached easily. Between the 'ladder' section and the 'hopper' section is differential (hidden away underneath), and I can manually adjust the rotation of this differential via a worm gear to get the timing between each section just right. Apart from this one worm gear used to make timing adjustments, I haven't used any other worm gears as I have seen the damage they can do to GBC modules if something gets jammed (although, in theory, my Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System should stop this from happening anyway). There are quite a lot of gears within the drivetrain, but it runs quite smoothly. When I was creating it I thought the weight of the 'ladder' would cause a lot of strain on the motor, but when one side is going up gravity is making the other side go down which cancels out a lot of the strain. Jams sometimes occur in the 'hopper' and 'ball diverter' sections, and are typically caused by too many balls in the hopper, or the timing of 'ball diverter' not being adjusted correctly. I have had this running at a public expo that my LUG held, but I was too busy to baby-sit this module, so it was only running part of the time, but when it was running it ran without issue. This is the first GBC module that I have made, so I spent a lot of time trying to get it working consistently. I hope you like it. Any constructive feedback/comments/questions are welcome. UPDATE: I have created an LDraw/MLCad file of my GBC module. Read more here. Music:
  4. We all have to figure this out at some point or another in order to use certain pieces in LEGO. Some learn how to wrangle the rope and string in summer camp, others with their shoelaces and other household objects. However, I'm betting that most first-time LEGO builders learned it their own way: the hard way. Some of my first sets I've ever built - the Inventor series - required string for many a build, and let me tell you, it was hard finding a good knot meathod. Multiple times the string would just slip right out of it's knot, letting the swinging monkey plummet to the ground; and if I did find a working knot, I'd still have to take it down as soon as possible, as any tighter then knot got, the more impossible it was to undo it. I've lost plenty a good string due to this factor, and definitely don't want to risk anymore. Considering LEGOs are all about constructing then deconstructing pieces to be just as usable as before, the same should apply to the string and the pieces it attaches to, too. And what better way to help newcomers to the element than to archive a thread dedicated to such info? So, what works for you so far?
  5. Hammerstein NWC

    The 'Nam Wreckin Crew

    The Nam Wreckin Crew are the meanest, deadliest, bunch of S.O.B.s ever to pull on a uniform. Pictured here at muster they are selecting their gear for their next mission on Cheeseburger Hill. NWC act as problem solvers for the US army when actions go bad or things just get to hot to handle. Officially these guys don't exist running black Ops for the Administration. The NWC are hand picked and led by the ruthless Sergeant Frank Statton III seen here front and centre. The Team. Darryl "Heavy D" Payton. M60 Support Gunner - Outhouse doors want to be like him when they grow up. Tommy "Thumper" Johnson - Responsible for punching a way into hot zones and droppin' smoke for Copters at the exfil.. Don "Tick Tock" Banner - Demolitions and the teams grease monkey. Bob "Psycho" Busch - Tunnel Rat, No right to be alive but he's still breathing despite being, shot, stabbed and blown up. Seemingly nothing can stop this combat tank. Ralph "Smokey" Polawski - Wants to see the whole world burn and frequently does... Some of the customisation I have done is as follows: Daryl - Painted Boonie Hat The Sarge - Hat String and rank decal Psycho - Bandages wrap round entire body (not really visible) Tommy and Bob added helmet straps Bob custom flamethrower with some painted elements Hope you enjoy them!