Eurobricks Citizen
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About sed6

  • Birthday 03/26/1973

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    Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, USA
  • Interests
    I collect expensive hobbies.


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    United States

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  1. 2018 Lego Trains

    What are switches with studs?
  2. I too have several new switches that are hard to throw. I bet you could squirt a little graphite powder lube inside to make them smoother. In fact I'll try first and report back soon.
  3. 4563 - locomotive working periodically!?

    Glad to hear! You're very welcome.
  4. 4563 - locomotive working periodically!?

    Your track is probably dirty and needs to be cleaned. The metal rails oxidize and that prevents a good flow of electricity. You'll also need to check the connections between the track sections, make sure they are cleaned also and make good, tight contact. They make dedicated rail cleaners but a green scotch pad or a stiff rubber eraser will do the job. Also check your wires. A sharp kink on the outside could indicate a broken wire inside which can lead to an intermittent connection. It's possible there's something wrong with the motors themselves, but start with the track and wires first and then report back.
  5. [HELP] Buying RC Train Track

    Please share where you can find them that cheap! Straights are gonna run about $2.25 and up on Bricklink and ebay. So while Legos are considered a toy and this just a hobby, it can be an expensive one. You gotta pay to play.
  6. Motorization question

    I second that and suggest you put them only on one side. This will allow the side without bands to slide easier going around curves. If you band both sides you'll notice a reduction in speed going around corners accompanied by a squeal as one side tries to slide, this is due to the difference in distance the inside wheel must travel vs the outside wheel.
  7. Washers For Technic Axles

    Chuck them in a drill or Drexel tool and sand them down? Or use a technic bushing to trim them with a knife?
  8. Washers For Technic Axles

    ACE hardware carries a good stock of nylon washers. The ID and thickness will work for you but the OD is definately bigger than the OD of a technic bushing. Perhaps you can cut them down. A well stocked hobby store will also have plastic washers. They are used for RC cars bodies, on servos and RC airplanes.
  9. 4564 loco with PF and on the cheap

    Wait for the new PF to be released by TLG. It could help with someone your design concerns. Or maybe use a non Lego Lipo? They are much small.
  10. My layout continues to grow; larger table, more track and more cars! First I lengthened my door by 6 inches and widened it by 2.25 inches bringing it to 86 x 38.25 inches. This allowed me to lengthen the loops by 16 studs, one piece of track, and eliminate the several stud overhang on the ends I had before. Adding a bit of width allowed me to obtain the standard 8 stud spacing (versus the 4 I had) on the back of the loops, eliminating overhang and I also installed a crossover back there. My layout now has 14 switches, 6 sidings, 3 crossovers, 2 seperate loops and 1 reversing loop. This allows for a crazy amount of running and switching fun! I also built some old time passenger cars and a caboose for my 4-4-0 American steam engine to pull. They were fun to design and relatively cheap to build, about $100 for all three IIRC. I'll admit the sidings are a little crowded with all the trains parked, but I'm happy I CAN park them all! Once I pull a train onto the outer loop to run, the inner loop is free for all the switching and reversing my heart desires. The three crossovers make switching from loop to loop a breeze. The crossovers also cut each loop effectively in half, allowing me to use either end of the inside or outside loops as a passing track or a large siding. My childhood N-scale and Lionel trains were just loops with a siding or two. While this might be old news to some of you, I'm just discovering all the fun I can have running trains on a layout with so many options! I hope you like!
  11. Let’s talk about standard train wheels...

    You video results don't surprise me. You're not fighting rolling resistance going around the corner as much as you are fighting the rub between the wheel flange and the rail. Heavier just makes for more resistance. I bet if you move your axles closer, space them 10 studs, the problem will be eliminated. As for your last pic, that's part of your problem I suspect also. Your green car is trying to swing to the outside, thereby allowing the wheels to follow the curve and roll more freely while your flat car is trying to keep the green car straight in line. This is likely causing additional rub between the wheels on the green car and the rail. This just compounds your problem. If you don't want to move the wheels closer together your only other solution would be to join the couplers to the wheels (and the stairs) and pivot the whole unit. You can use a simple 2x2 turntable. Here's a pic of what I do. I use it this on all my cars and it works like a charm.
  12. (MOC) - The 60163 - Tornado

    Fantastic! Thanks for sharing! Your design looks great and just might be the solution to my problems.
  13. train car max length

    Agree your cars look great! Shorter would do them a disservice. They look great on a large layout like in you pic. The OP should think about where he plans to run them also. On a small layout like mine the long cars could present problems and it probably would not be as enjoyable as running them on a large layout. I definately keep the small size of my layout in mind as I design and build cars.
  14. train car max length

    My tank cars are 20, my hoppers 24, my unfinished caboose is 24, my unfinished passenger cars are 28 and my BNSF is 50. Each are a little short compared to what they 'should' be but I like the shorter length and as Stefaneris said going too long presents challenges with overhang and switches. Personally I think those 60 plus long ones are too long but to each their own. You need to keep your target audience in mind; if you're building a scale car for yourself make it long, if you're building for play no one will care if you have one 60 stud car or two 30 stud cars.
  15. Let’s talk about standard train wheels...

    Good pics. Nice MOC's! Hmm, perhaps the length, specifically the overhang at the end is causing a problem. First test each car individually, give them the flick test I mention above. Does each roll freely? If not check for binding in each wheel axle. Also check to see if the bumpers are touching, if so that can cause binding between the wheels and rails. See my pic below; with just one stud between the wheels and coupler there's lots of room between the bumpers, with two studs the distance is reduced, with three studs the bumpers are now touching. With three studs, at least in my test platform, the cars still roll smoothly. Four studs though cause enough binding to prevent smooth rolling. When I coupled them together with four stud spacing I immediately felt the cars shift, they tried to 'straighten' themselves out causing binding between the wheels and rails. As best I can tell from your pics you look to have just three studs between your wheels and couplers, so I'd think you'd be okay. You're gonna have to play with them some more to figure it out.