janssnet

32 km/h ..... aiming for something significantly higher

Nop, its an existing 'category'.

That is exactly my plan: Electronics non-LEGO, everything else is made of commercially available LEGO. However, what to do with the tyres? At a certain speed, the ballooning effect of the tires in such, they come off of the rim, and no adhesive allowed ..... I'm considering 32077 rim and 32078 tire. Unless someone has a better idea?

These are the constraints given. Fastest LEGO® brick remote-controlled (RC) model car: The vehicle must be made entirely of commercially available LEGO® bricks, except for the drivetrain (including batteries, if applicable). No adhesive may be used in the construction of the vehicle. The independent witnesses must confirm the above guideline points. The design, size, etc. of the vehicle is irrelevant. The challenger/s must select the vehicle most suited to break this record. Details of the vehicle used must be submitted with the claim. The car must be steerable and controlled via a remote link. The vehicle must be a prototype and not commercially available.

Received this message from Guinness World Records: We are pleased to inform you that your application has been accepted under the following title: Fastest LEGO® brick remote-controlled (RC) model car. No time to waste! Current plan is to do the attempt early september. And yes, it will run with brushless motors

Motors: Samguk Series Wu 2206 2400kv U-joint: Metal 5mm to 4mm. Cut the 5mm axle of the motor down to 5mm length (careful, put some paper around the axle to protect the motor otherwise the metal fragments get onto your magnets ) Then drilled the 4mm hole into a 4.8mm hole using this 'holder'. And then put an axle (59426) into the u-joint, fixed with a 3mm headless screw.

This thing runs super! Great torque, great speed, good cornering, no parts falling off I'm pleasantly surprised. Not only the performance is great, the costs are minimal: €20 ESC, 4 x €12 motors and a €13 battery. The combination of these light weight motors together with the planetary gear hub (46490) is doing the trick. Will do more footage soon. Here a first preview .... https://drive.google.com/file/d/10PWXrrdkgM4LEOsqPBHX2jvJd-DXuTh9/view?usp=sharing

I did, but haven't found the right product yet. Mostly they are too stiff for the LEGO wishbones, especially when you can only mount them on 1 side of the wishbone, the force gets unequally divided and things brake apart. Any suggestions regarding oil filled shocks for LEGO models, let me know! This is the latest status of the build. First outdoor tests were nice. However, as most of you might have noticed, the weakest part for faster LEGO cars is mostly the steering link and the 'pin with ball'-connector (6628). When it gets bumpy it disconnects. Took some non-LEGO measures and ready for a stress test now.

Yes and no ;) Yes, steer links on both front and rear, but no rear steering. Tried it long time ago, makes no sense. Cornering is too aggressive. Unless you build a forklift truck :) Turns out (after all the 'real' rc cars i've seen recently) most rc cars have the same construction for front and rear. Even though steering is not required on the rear, a steer link makes sense for suspension and ........ to adjust toe in/out. Have allowed myself 2 3D printed parts in this car: 1. motor mount and 2. wheel hub steer link connection. 1. Enables a very strong mount for 2 motors that is only 1 stud wide. 2. Enables the possibility to have different toe in/out for front and rear and is much stronger than a LEGO alternative (the past learned this is the weakest part when made from LEGO). PS Switched to custom springs. LEGO springs were too stiff and too little travel. Yes, this car is perfect to further experiment with torque vectoring (i.e. sw differential), but first things first.

Finished a first version of this concept car: 4x 2400kV BLDC - 3S lipo - 4in1 BLHeli-S ESC, with the motors centered and using LEGOs planetary wheel hubs (46490). Runs very promising. Great torque and yet good speed. Will try to turn it into a proper looking dune buggy ....

Yep! The in-wheel-project is not finished yet. Working on a (if possible) faster on-road rc car right now and waiting for a third party's response to get a GO on a next LEGO project ......

Recently finished an updated version of my "ONE_PIECE_3D_PRINTED_LEGO_BOAT" Moved away from the LEGO drivetrain, wasn't waterproof. Converted to non-lego parts for the internal mechanics (servo, driveshaft, motor-mount). Result is pretty good. Please have a look at the video here. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G1vxLrbVExNiBES1nfUgEu7qyVhFcGDE/view?usp=sharing What i'm most thrilled about though is the updated version of Nano Banana (AI image editing). If you want your LEGO model to come alive, give it a try!

Not sure i can, can only speak for myself ... but it starts by adding a Buwizz or an SBrick to your models. Result is slightly underwhelming, you want more. More speed, more power. So you start adding your own motors, adding your own RX/TX go get away from Bluetooth. Adding bearings, home-made gearing, 3D prints. Your own tyres, since the LEGO ones start ballooning at your current speed. And it goes on and on, like an addiction . After building my LEGO in-wheel-drive buggy, i was so excited about the use of drone tech in a car, wanted to do an attempt to build an on-road rc car that was faster, quieter, less power consuming and cheaper than traditional rc cars. It took some effort and it took lots of time but with the help of others, it looks like we are on to something. Yes, an rc car based on tech for flying objects and it started with LEGO. Not sure were it's going to end ....... Please find the latest track test here, speed test coming up, car needs further tuning, but it looks very promising. We estimate 120+ km/h is doable! (using 4 drone motors €15 each and a 4in1 ESC €55). Has nothing to do with LEGO (anymore), sorry bout that. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Og2HeR4ggFpmgU-xFPQHCJT4zx4ERz0N/view?usp=sharing NB The sound you hear is another (combustion) car on the track ;)

Ok, to drive a (iWD) car using a drone ESC, you don't need a Flight Controller (FC). You 'just' need to connect the right wires. Take the throttle signal from your receiver (RX) and connect it to all (4) motor inputs on your ESC and connect GND from receiver to the ESC input. Make sure the ESC is configured for Servo input (= PWM input, not DShot) and you're ready to go! What i mostly do is create a small print, using header pins (see attached image). Solder the RX throttle signal (white wire in this picture) to the 4 motor input pins in one row and solder the GND (black wire) to one of the last pin. Solder the ESC motor inputs to the other row of pins (including GND). With the jumpers OFF, you can configure the ESC (connect your FC * to the ESC). With the jumpers ON the ESC is connected to your receiver, ready to drive. *) To drive the car you don't need the FC. However, to configure the ESC you do need the FC (so called 'pass through' mode). Connect your PC to the FC (USB), connect FC to ESC, start your configurator program, connect battery, and start configuring.

@keepbrickingHaven't read all your posts, what are you working on? I'm using both 4in1 ESCs and individual ESCs running BLHeli-s, BlueJay and/or AM32. What can i help you with?