Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'ship'.
-
I have come to point where I'm starting to run out of parts. The design I have in mind is grande, a rough 15 procent larger than what I'm showing now. I wanted to wait as long as possible with buying additional bricks and that was a good thing because I see there's quite some space for improvement already. Anyway, this is what I've build so far: She's a bit longer than my Black Pearl, taller but about the same width. Either way she's an improvement compared to my first version of the Flying Dutchman. Back then I was under the impression that you can't build a ship without prefab hull parts The color sheme stayed mostly the same though I think the grey looks rather boring. personally I'm disturbed by the long black line along the ships' side, I would have prefered grey or dark grey instead but I didn't have enough parts. Incase you were wondering, the black line is what makes the angle on the side, I used hinged car roof plates you see, they make a less agressive angle than the hinge plates as used in Captain Greenhairs' Frigate. I did that because the FD is much taller compared to a frigate. I left one side of the ship open, you might find that cool so you can view the interior but the actual reason was that I don't have enough parts for a complete ship. On that note, you don't see the port side in the movies anyway. Anyway there will be an interior I had to reduce the size of the organ in order to make it fit in the captains' quarters, this might sound strange considering my previous Flying Dutchman was smaller yet it had a bigger organ. However, in the previous version the whole captains' quarter was situated on the gun deck, not where it is supposed to be. I think the new organ looks nicer than the old one though. The stern still needs a lot of work, there's no place on this ship where part selection is more critical. But the bow needs the most work of all, apart from the fact that she's missing her "teeth" she could look a bit more elegant. Now, I'm gonna have to order parts but I haven't made up my mind wether I'll finish this ship or start building an improved version right away. You see I found a colorscheme that could work: A combination of old grey and dark grey, dark tan, trans. yellow and some dark green and trans. green accents, actually I'm not so sure about the trans. green anymore. Oh well. C&C is appreciated. I'm under the impression that the Flying Dutchman is a Galleon, correct me if I'm wrong on that and while you're at it I'm also confused about POTC Queen Anne's revenge, a ship I would say she's also a galleon.
-
Hello everyone, this is my MOC of USS Constitution. I estimate it to be between 5-7000 pieces. I will eventually rig the ship fully as well as add minifigs and longboats. I am currently working on the Guerriere for a battle diorama. If anyone has any feedback or changes I should make, plea feel free to let me know. more photos at Uss constitution - Imgur
-
This is a collaboration between me and @Legostone . We present: The Inferno! Soon after 71391 Bowser Airship was released, I collected enough medium nougat coloured hull pieces to build a ship. Initially my intention was to build a replica of the famous Inferno, as seen in the move The Goonies. However, upon closer inspection of the reference material, we eventually decided to deviate and add some more interesting features. David came over to my place for a Ship Building Weekend, we had done one of those before, resulting in the creation of the Revenant. This is what we started from, on a Friday evening: (I typically collect potential useful parts in the hull of a WIP ship, that's just my process ) And this is what we had at the end of the weekend. Needless to say, we had been quite productive. One might even call this speed-building. From there on I continued on my own to finish this beauty. Though we continued to discuss solutions via whatsapp. I had never built a ship with a sprit topmast before, for a more classic galleon rig. It's more tricky than a modern bowsprit, meant for jibs, but I think it works. Some things we didn't like about the Goonies' Inferno are: the not so glorious stern (we wanted galleries!), the odd position of the main mast and the lack of fire power (Our ship now runs a compliment of 18 12-pounder guns on a dedicated gun deck and we left some room on the upper deck for additional 3 pounder guns, though I've only placed two near the capstan. The colour scheme is one I am very happy with, On top of the medium nougat hull sit the walls, which are made out of (old) dark grey. It more brownish tone, compared to the newer Bluish Grey, works great on a "wooden" ship. David and I had collected just enough rust-coloured gunport flaps, before Bricklink decided that Rust is not an official colour . To be fair it's not that different from regular red but still, regular red might have been too bright to play nice with the rest of this particular colour palette. Above the main gun deck, we have a splendid marriage of dark orange and dark red, continuing all the way up to the beakhead. On top of the stern medium nougat makes a return. I find that the reuse of the hull colour elsewhere on the ship often works well to bring some balance in the colour scheme. Pearl gold serves as decorations, ornamenting the prow and stern. I've taken some pictures before I added the sails, as it is often easier to see more of the ship itself that way. The deck is made entirely of dark tan. I personally find that reddish brown is easily overused so I've tried to limit it for little details on deck only. I had these printed tiles from the Snow White set, which goes well on the binnacle. Concerning the helm, a ship like this really isn't supposed to have a steering wheel. A whipstaff would have been more appropriate There is no interior, on a fully rigged ship it doesn't make much sense investing time in details into an interior that can never be accessed anyway. I'm very happy with these grates, I had these built already for another ship but it just felt right to use them on this one. (It's going to hurt collecting more reddish brown fences, they're quite expensive ) I think medium nougat would work well for the masts, instead of the current tan. Unfortunately I only considered that when the standing rigging had already been applied. Captain William B. Pordobel, can't forget about him. And that concludes our business, let me know if you like it. David and I are already discussing a new ship to build on another ship-building weekend .
-
Fortuna is back! - Completely rebuilt for Series 6 of the Bricklink Designer Program! Better, stronger, more detailed, more sophisticated, more polished! Fortuna is a fast sailing frigate designed as a Privateer. As a true frigate, Fortuna is equipped with 20 cannons and 2 swivel guns. With your help, Fortuna can become a limited release set! Please vote for her on BrickLink once voting opens: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-6/2056/Privateer-Frigate-Fortuna Please have a look at the video to see the working capstan in action: I am honored to present this lovely frigate on the Eurobricks Pirate MOC Forum first. After all, my journey into Lego sailing ships started on this very forum back in 2009! Please do take a moment to vote for Fortuna on Bricklink once voting opens: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-6/2056/Privateer-Frigate-Fortuna
-
Usually ships are equipped with one or more cannons. In this case, a very big cannon is equipped with a hull and a couple of masts. The Tartarus is not an elegant ship, if "ship" is the correct term… basically it is a sturdy barge, masted as a ketch and designed to carry a large siege mortar. Floating batteries are not very seaworthy and, although they can sail in open waters, their maneuverability is very low, so they are usually towed by other ships to their destinations. Moreover, due to their backward sail configuration and to their sturdy hull, they can't reach a great speed even with wind in favour. These ships, however, are far from being a deadweight for a fleet, since their several weaknesses are well compensated by a huge firepower. Mortars are very heavy, compared to naval cannons, and have a terrible recoil… however, they can also throw an explosive shell at a distance of almost two miles! Differently from most artillery pieces, a mortar is fired at a very high angle; therefore, the shot will follow an elegant arch and will fall almost vertically on its target, easily surpassing walls or ramparts. For this reason, mortar ships are usually employed in naval sieges, to shell the fortifications from a safe distance. However, they can be very effective against enemy ships too: with a short fuse, the shell will explode above the deck, in a deadly rain of fire and splinters; with a long fuse, the shell would easily pierce the planks and explode inside the ship, for instance in a crowded gundeck. The Tartarus is manned by sailor and artillerymen of the Mardierian Legion, an Oleander unit of volunteers and expatriates. Here you can see two of them loading the mortar, that uses two large bags of gunpowder... ...to send the enemy a "candy", that is almost fifty kilograms of iron, gunpowder and bad intensions! For obvious reasons, the Tartarus carries a considerable amount of explosives, so it should remain prudently far from enemy cannons… sane people don't enter a battle with a floating powder magazine! Spare masts or heavy logs are sometimes used to build improvised barricades at about half ship: this should better balance the recoil of the mortar and protect the ammunitions, or at least this is the hope of the sailors.. being on a floating battery, in case of an enemy attack, would be as dangerous as being in front of its cannons! The signalling flags, used to communicate with the rest of the fleet… "Oleon expects every man to do his duty!" (semi-quote) The captain, or chief gunner… it depends if you consider te Tartarus a ship or a battery! Well, I hope you enjoyed this ship! The sails are intentionally primitive, but I hope I didn't go too far in that direction! This project started with a hull I built and discarded for its awkward shape and a mortar I built with no good reason… putting them together was quite fun, even if the mast look somehow wrong. Historically, floating batteries were usually old, sturdy ships or robust rafts, towed near to the enemy harbour and loaded with guns too big to fit on a conventional ship. They had a very low maneuverability, and were extremely vulnerable to enemy counterattacks. However, they were quite cheap and could literally send a hell of iron and fire on the enemy fortifications. After some successes and some failures, floating batteries were gradually substituted by purpose-built ships, fully rigged and equipped with "normal" cannons too. At the very end of sail age, armoured floating battery appeared on the battlefield once again, before being made obsolete by steam-propelled monitors and ironclads. BTW, probably you can easily how I'm employing my spare time due to the "stay at home, stay safe" policy!
-
Here is my take on a Minifigure Scale Ancient Greek Homeric Galley. A predecessor to the Bireme and the more widely known Trireme, the Homeric Galley was a rowed warship that sailed the Aegean Sea around the 12th century BC. This ship specifically is based off of the Epic Poem The Odyssey and its protagonist, Odysseus' ship. Homeric Galley by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr Homeric Galley by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr Homeric Galley by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr
-
This model was originally inspired by three sets: 3817 (Flying Dutchman) from the Spongebob Squarepants theme, set 4184 (The Black Pearl) from Pirates of the Caribbean, and 21322 (Pirates of Barracuda Bay), from Ideas. It features three and a 1/2 masts with what are going to be fabric sails of Black Pearl size but of 2010 Imperial Flagship markings. The 2016 Ninjago "Skybound" flag (see below) will fly from the middle mast as Captain Henry Walker's pirate flag. The ship also has a crows nest and two removable sections: a rear upper deck for access to the captain's cabin and a forward deck panel for getting at the front four cannons. (there are eight cannons total on the ship) Here is the rear of the ship featuring the captain's cabin windows and a trio of lanterns. The ship's name, the Inferno, goes in printed 1 x 1 tiles on the exposed gray studs on the rear of the ship. The rowboat sits on a section of deck that easily comes off for access to the cannons. The roof of the captain's cabin is removable, with a table and chair for Captain Walker to sit at and read maps. Captain Henry Walker (in green) and his crew. The pirate flag of the Captain Walker. (This picture was taken from Bricklink's catalog and is NOT mine. It's from the 2016 Ninjago Skybound wave.) NOTES: I'm working on getting this built in real life, since my last ship is so unreasonably expensive to build in real life it's ridiculous. (Thus this one is better, as it less expensive / parts intensive) I'm gonna need help on the sails, so I'm asking @Alazon, would you mind helping me with these please? They would be in Black Pearl sizes, but in 2010 imperial flagship style colors? Comments, questions, and complaints are always welcome!
-
This strange, pixelated-looking ship has sailed the digital seas and plundered many a helpless Minecraft village. Life was good for it's three man crew, but a chance encounter with a User Exit Portal (think like TRON) sent the pirate ship Inferno into the real world, albeit still in it's 8-bit form. Now, stuck in an unfamiliar world with strange logic, (Round surfaces? What is this deviltry!?!) the crew of the Inferno with it's Captain will have to navigate a way back to their computer paradise from the modern Pacific Ocean using 18th-century techniques. You may have noticed that some parts are missing decorations, including the cubed skeleton heads at the rear of the ship and the black pirate emblems on the sails. Also missing is the four dark bluish gray connectors between the masts and ship base. (two pieces per mast) I have removed the flick-fire missile / cannons as designed in set 21152, as I detest those parts. Let's just say the cannon's are just too small to see at this scale. The ship breaks into three parts for storage, and comes with a plank for walking people into a watery grave that slides left and right. (It is located in the middle section.) The ship also breaks up for use on the skull island part I did not use from the original set, as the ship can look like it's wrecked there. Does this sound familiar? It should, as the Pirates of Barracuda Bay (set 21332) uses the same principle about one year later! If you don't believe me, check out this Brickset link to the set, under more images. It will show you the alternate way to display the set. This is the Captain of the ship, One-Eyed Willy. He also does doctoring and is good at it. (most of the time) This is the first mate / cook, a mister Barbarossa. (this is from before the Black Pearl caught his eye and he deserts Willy to join a certain Captain Sparrows' crew.) ...and then we have the gunner / navigator, Long John Silver. (His navigating is what get's Willy trapped in a cave where the some children find the Inferno 200 years later. As for Mr. Silver, he slips away before the battle starts in a rowboat to the shore.) NOTE: the last three pictures (the figure ones) are taken from Bricklink! Any questions or comments? I plan on building this very soon, as I can't afford the big pirate set coming out April 1st, so this will have to do...
-
About 3 years ago, I made a Nebulon-b out of parts I had at my house, and really liked it. People were asking me for instructions to buy it, and I didnt have any. Now, three years later, I have finally gotten around to upgrading it and making instructions. With that being said, here is my new and improved Nebulon-b Escort Frigate:I built this with the main goal of making it movie accurate, sturdy, good for display, but most of all, CHEAP! All of the 1895 pieces will cost you about $190 to order through bricklink, which is less than many other mocs Ive seen that can be very expensive. This was very fun to build, and way better than my old model. Disclaimer: I have not built this version out of physical bricks, and am planning to buy it for myself once I gain enough money to buy the parts myself. The point is, the inside structure is almost identical to my old one, and it is sturdy. The stand will be enough to hold it up.I did not include an interior, but there is enough space in the main part under the antennas for two minifigs sitting down. It can easily be decorated if you are into interiors in your models.The ship looks good from all angels and has a little unfilled space which you can barely see. Here are the rest of the images: The moc is now For Sale at: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-41937/AWproductions/nebulon-b-escort-frigate/?inventory=1#info Here is the link to my old model that I built if anybody is interested: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/150019-moc-nebulon-b-escort-frigate/
-
This is my first Entry for the Oaken shield Task of the GOC-challenge. To Rear- Admiral Fletcher Commander of the Terra Novan Fleet As answer for your call for Gunboats for the colonies, I have been searching for a multi purpose light vessel. The result is a boat with six oars that can serve as a landing boat due to it's space for twelve soldiers or as light gun carrier with an experimental 12 pounder gun. With slight modifications the boat can get a very small mast and a sail but generally the boat is not supposed for that as it would destroy the very small silhouette. Fortunately it is small enough to be considered as side boat for larger ships, but still you can find instructions with this letter with which every shipwright should be able to replicate it. Your servant, John W. Jaeger Marine Lieutenant serving in Spudkirk There it is, my first ship Critique ver welcomed as this is new Land for me! Stay healthy!
-
Hey everyone, Lurked here for a while, but just recently joined and wanted to post my MOD/MOC using 70413 as a base and changing it to a Bluecoat ship. I swapped out all the red for blue, new sails, and a few other changes including a throwback figurehead you may recognize
-
Ahoy, mateys! I'd like to present to you a Lego Ideas project - The Royal Flagship - a classic style, modular, set-like looking ship-of-the-line with lots of play features. SUPPORT NOW Stats and overview: Features: ---------- About: I started this project with a specific intention - to design a multi deck vessel that can be both - a Lego set-like looking ship that's fun to play with, and a decently realistic shelf model of a true ship-of-the-line. And all of this had to fit in the Lego Ideas framework, specifically it had to contain 3000 parts or less. No easy undertaking, and I've failed to come up with something that I liked a couple of times over the past years. This design now, however, I think it quite does it. Sure, it might not be playful enough to some, and not realistic enough looking to others, and then there's the fact there are only stud-shooters instead of ye olde Lego cannons... () But I hope the compromise I found is appealing to at least some of you; and that it proves that ships-of-the-line can be done as sets by Lego. Some decisions I took along the way: Use stud shooters instead of spring powered cannons (*boo-ing noises in the background* ) But hear me out - let's face it, no single set will ever contain that many classic cannons. So the Royal Flagship features easy to remove stud shooter based custom cannons that can be fired from outside the ship, but that can also as easily be replaced by your good old spring powered cannons - if you got enough of them, the space is there! Almost no interior, except for the captain's cabin. This decision was simply based on Lego Ideas' 3000 parts maximum. Feel free to fill the decks with whatever you would like to see though - there's enough headroom for minifigs to be placed on all decks! Relatively simple hull shape, little tumble home, no string rigging. Due to the modular approach, I just couldn't come up with anything more ornate/fancy/complicated - if you have some suggestions, however, feel free to elaborate! The Royal Flagship was very well received during last year's Bricks @nd Friends exhibition in Cologne; kids especially seemed to like the firing mechanism pretty well - we literally had a blast Let's see if I can take the ship to a few more exhibitions this year - if Corona permits. ---------- If you have questions, please ask! And if you got ideas for improvements, I'm all ears! If I convinced you - please support on Lego Ideas! And feel free to share with friends and other pirates enthusiasts - every vote counts! Thank you for watching SUPPORT NOW
-
The Black Pearl I built this for Innovalug's Style it Up contest, where the prompt was to build something, anything, with only one color. So after contemplating many colors and subjects (spaceship, dragon, etc.) but ultimately rejecting them all, I started building a ship. Then, since my color was black, I settled on the Black Pearl of Pirates of the Caribbean fame as a reference. She's not a perfect likeness, as I did not bother with all of the gunports and other details like that, as it would have been beyond my collection at this scale, but I am pretty pleased with how it turned out. C & C welcome.
-
This MOC was inspired by @Mr. Townsend's Miss Elizabeth and @Bregir's use of 4185. Also of course the USS Hannah, on which the Miss Elizabeth is based. - Intro story will follow - A new ship was launched at the Farrensman shipyards. This time an order from the WTC. The Topsail Schooner Sjælland is a fast, light armed merchant vessel. Her rig doesn't require a big crew and her four carronades as well as her four swivel guns are enough to defend against little ambushes and make her one of the more independent merchant vessels. Nathaniel Stienhouwer's first signed position as a steersman. Her recommended stats: R M G C $ H4 6 1 2 4 1 78 of those little brown wheels are in this MOC. I'm happy with the result, only the sheets for the foresails bother me a bit. I might think of another solution but for now I want to give her some rest. -
Lately I have made some ships from the Middle Ages. I am sharing them here as they could fit nicely with castles, knights, catapults and armor. The Middle Ages is a broad term, but according to Wikipedia, it is the period 500-1500. So far I have made: A Dromon, The Skuldelev Ships, A Cog, A Caravel, A Carrack and A Galley. All ships are minifig scale or approx. 1:40. Some models can altered in to waterline models, ie. the bottom can be removed so that they can stand on a "water surface". They are digital for now, but that may change. Here I confine myself to a picture of each ship. Some of them have additional pictures. These are in the pirate forum, where each ship has its own topic and on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/131641614@N06/albums Dromon From Greek δρόμων, dromōn, "runner" was a galley and the most important warship of the Byzantine navy from the 5th to the 12th century. Length: 93 cm, Height: 43 cm, Width: 37 cm (with oars) Bricks: approx. 4350 Can be altered in to a waterline model. Skuldelev Ships 1-6 The Viking ships from Roskilde. Excavated in 1962. The largest model, Skuldelev 2, will have the following dimensions Length: 80 cm, Height: 40 cm, Width: 10.5 cm The smallest model, Skuldelev 6, will have the following dimensions Length: 29 cm, Height: 21.5 cm, Width: 7 cm Approx. 4900 bricks in all models combined. 2100 in Skuldelev 2, 1100 in Skuldelev 1 and 450-700 in each of the other ships. Skuldelev 1 A”large” cargo ship, Knarr, 1030 A. D. Skuldelev 2 (and 4) A warship, Skeid, 1042 A. D. Is so large that the excavation team initially thought it was two ships, hence 2 and 4 Skuldelev 3 A cargoship, Byrding, 1040 A. D. Skuldelev 5 A small warship, Snekkja, 1030 A. D. Skuldelev 6 A fishing boat or small cargo vessel, Ferje, 1030 A. D. Cog The cog is a ship type used from the 10th century to the 14th century. This model could represent a cog from from approx. 1270-1330. If anyone knows anything else, do tell. Length: 68 cm, Height: 75 cm, Width: 19 cm Bricks: approx. 4300 Can be altered to a waterline model. Caravel The caravel was developed in the 14th and 15th centuries. Shown here in both a lateen rigged and square-rigged version. With a length of 14 m (scaled), the model is roughly the same size as Niña (Santa Clara) and Pinta from the famous journey to Asia in 1492. Length: 40 cm, Height: 45 cm, Width: 10.5 cm Bricks: approx. 1300 (in one of them) Carrack Karrack, Caravela, Nau, Nao, Neef or Kraak., About. 1500 The ship type is a precursor to the galeon and builds on the cog, the holk / hulk and various Mediterranean ship types. When I researched this type of ship there were some very far-out versions of what it might look like. Maybe I will make some of them at some point, but here I have used different plans for Santa Maria and a lot of common sense. Length: 85 cm, Height: 75 cm, Width: 23 cm Bricks: approx. 6400 Can be altered to a waterline model. Galley This is a model of an Italian style galley. 14th century, 1571 or mid. 18th century depending on weight put on references or type. The main characteristics of the model are from La Capitana, a galley of Malta. The lines, armament, oars and overall arrangement follows the drawings of this ship. These are indexed in Architectura novalis mercatoria (published by Fredrik Henrik af Chapmann in 1768) as no.18 on plate LVIII Details, such as color, not provided by Chapmann, are from Real, the flagship of Don John of Austria in the Battle of Lepanto in 1571. The details from this Spanish Real compared to the French La Réale from 1694; however, this ship is not a main reference. Length: 166 cm, Height: 113 cm (with stand), Width: 82 cm (with oars) Bricks: approx. 16200 Can be altered to a waterline model.
-
La Phénix, belonging to Tristan Rimbaud since its very arrival in the archipelago, is a fast and versatile ship that played a role in some of the most relevant happenings of the last years: Tristan used it to move to different islands, to send emissaries or dispatches and to reach important social events, but also to bring a new platoon of soldiers to Astrapi, to reach Fatu Hiva and to support his secret campaign in Charlatan Bay. It is not a very elegant ship, but it's robust and has a capacious hold, useful both to host soldiers or to load goods. Armed with ten 12lbs cannons, Le Phénix can also face enemies at sea, even if it gives its best as a support ship. The ship owes its name to the wooden figurehead, depicting the mythical phoenix, phénix in Oleander. The glorious Oleander flag waves on the stern, near to the ship bell. Every man on board, from the captain to the last of the sailors, would give his life rather than furl the flag in surrender. The Captain, Tristan Rimbaud: recently appointed Count of Astrapi, re-integrated in the army with the rank of Major, he is quite an unusual officer. Not so concerned about uniforms or strict discipline, he refuses most of the privileges of the rank, such as the better food. He has personally chosen all the crew members, and his men would follow him blindfolded to Hades' Reign. "Captain on deck!" Captain Rimbaud is not so concerned about being saluted, but La Royale has it's conventions. The navigator defines the best route, while a sailor calculates latitude and longitude with sextant and chronometer. When your ship completely depends on sails, a storm or a long period of dead calm could kill the whole crew. The so-called "stormglass" could be used to forecast storms, rain, fog or good weather, with an accuracy of about 3/4. The mechanism of functioning is unknown, but a long list of captains that trusted flakes or "clouds" in the liquid and survived to the worst storm seasons is a very strong argument for the stormglass. "Keep the deck clean, make it shine!". This is not only aesthetics, this is a paramount: a dirty deck becomes slippery, and you don't want a slippery deck during a storm or a battle. Below the deck a sailor takes rest, eating a part of his daily rations. Most sailors don't like sauerkrauts a lot but, after this food was introduced by doctor Marcel Laurent, nobody has developed scurvy. A sailor peeling potatoes, during one of the daily corves. Kitchen is a simple brick structure, with fire lit in a sandbox, as far as possible from the ammunition store. The pot is suspended to prevent dangerous spills of boiling water: a capsized pot could cause horrible wounds to the cook. Doctor Laurent medicates the survivor of a shipwreck, while Master Sergeant Dubois, the officer commanding the embarked soldiers, listens his story: an Eslandolan trade ship was sank by a storm in Eastern Prio Sea, with no other survivors. The surgeon's chest, containing medicines and tools that every sailor prays never to see in his hands. The ship kitchen The cook and some sailors in fatigue uniform. Soldiers and sailors in battle uniform. Captain and officers. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I built this ship even before entering BoBS, but for some reason I never published it… I continuously changed details and minifigs, waiting for the right occasion. I'm quite satisfied by the result, even if sails and masts are quite rudimentary and helm wheel is in a weird position… probably I could do something about that, but since it is my very first "creature" I prefer to let it in this way.
-
A true Pirate fan or historic fan can only applaud the fact that people make true Replica's of ships long lost. One of these iconic replica's is without any doubt the Gotheborg, buit in Sweden and based on the Swedish East Indiaman Gotheborg who launched in 1738. Since I started building lego ships, I dreamed of bricking the Gotheborg. After a few years of learning and developping shipbuilding techniques, I started with the vessel in 2017 to finish it in 2018 (finished except the ratlines). And this year I finally found the time and motivation to finish those bloody ratlines A big shoot out to @Captain Green Hair, @Sebeus I, @kabel, @Legostone and all others of the BeLUG pirate crew for the advice and feedback during the process! Anyway, I hope you enjoy the vessel. It was most of the time a real troublemaker to make everything comes together (difficult angles and other challenges). An extra picture: the Gotheborg together with another new vessel: Princesse Margot (can be found in BOBS forum) Just discovered someone filmed both ships at Skaerbaek Fan Weekend: Thanks for watching! C&C would be awesome! Flickr album
-
Anvil Class Carrier- LL 505 “Ark IV” Length: 180 meters Armament: Heavy laser turrets (2) Medium laser turrets (2) Centurion LOS medium anti-cruiser Magnetic Acceleration Rail Cannon, 1-“barrell” (2) Quad link anti-fighter laser turrets (12) Complement: Up to 24 Warden Class Interceptors Crew: 160 With the limited fighter capacity of the Forge Battle Cruiser, the Coalition commissioned a complimentary second ship, the Anvil Class Fighter Carrier. The Fighter Carrier had a much lower combat rating than the Forge Battle Cruiser receiving only a class 6 battle-rating (excluding the weapons capabilities of the fighters) due to the weapons configuration which consisted of 2 heavy laser batteries, 2 medium laser batteries, and 2 medium duty anti-cruiser single barrel MARCs (but no missile pods or peace keeper orbital weaponry) with the additional weapons mounts all dedicated to anti-fighter turrets. Despite the lower combat rating, the Anvil Fighter Carrier, is outfitted with an armor and design configuration which made the ship more durable than most other ships with carrier or support roles. Additionally, the hanger bay entry points in the middle of the ship allowed for better protection of the bays than traditional carrier designs with the hanger bay entrances located on the outer hull of the ship. The durability combined with the firepower of the Warden Class interceptors meant the combined battle-rating of the Anvil Fighter Carrier and a full complement of fighters was much closer to a class 8. This meant the carrier could be used on solo missions when battleships or long-range missile frigates were not anticipated to be in heavy use. The main drawback of the Anvil Class Fighter Carrier was its size. The carrier was nearly double the width of primary attack craft like the Forge Class Battle Cruiser of the Hammer Class Missile Corvette. This issue was often overcome by keeping the carrier in a support position behind heavy assault ships, or if the carrier was in closer proximity to the battle, using a unique design feature to separate the carrier in two. Separating the carrier in two provides for more flexibility in use and much smaller targeting areas, though it does lose some of its more appealing features such as the center mounted hanger bays and the ability to operate with two distinct shield generators for additional toughness. The separation feature also meant each half was required to contain a full range of critical ship’s systems. While this made the carriers more expensive to manufacture and crew, it also made them more reliable and durable. Eurobrick's exclusive- ship separated and showing one component half:
-
USS Constellation, Set 398/10021 and some mods
jan kusters posted a topic in General LEGO Discussion
(I was unsure again which forum to use; feel free to move it to a more appropriate spot if need be). Grin, who said history never changes? This ship’s known history changed between 1978 (Lego’s first edition of this set) and the 2003 reissue of this set. Back in 1978 it was thought the now still preserved museum ship was the original 1797 build ship, that underwent a thorough rebuild in 1854. But by the time the 2003 set came out, it was decided the 1854 rebuild was actually a completely new ship, with perhaps a few timbers used from the first ship. (photo by James in Balto, via Wikicommons) Anyway, we do not use timbers. Onto the bricks Mr Baines! (Yep, no box, no instructions, no original set. Just two bags with lots of bricks…) I wanted to build this ship for several reasons. I never knew this Lego set way back when. By the time this one appeared (1978), I was well into my dark ages. So getting this set was not exactly fulfilling a childhood dream. Hence I had no need for originals. A bricklinked set of stones would be fine. Luckily, some vendors offered just that already! No childhood-dream set. But building big sail ships was one of the things I did a lot when I was a kid. Those were all Rainbow Worriers, so to speak, where I would use all colours I had to reach size. Big as possible. And from what I remember, the intricate rigging was what I spend most time on. The rigging was actually needed to keep my masts and spars up and in position. I used little cards with darning wool from mom to make that rigging. I remember the start always being an exercise in patience and frustration-management, with masts and spars collapsing at every touch until I would have the basic rigging up. So building a large sailing ship might be a nice sentimental journey anyway. A chance to finally get it right; all in one colour. And with enough bricks to end what I began. Another reason for getting this set was that, like most Hobby sets from the seventies, it uses very few ‘weird’ or specialized bricks. It is mostly constructed from 2x8 and some smaller standard bricks, 2x8 and 1x8 plates (and quite a lot of smaller plates). Many black bricks and plates, and quite a few yellow plates (both so far rather sparse in my stash). The set would be a nice addition to my basic set of bricks and plates. And finally, I got to check tricks and techniques of the Lego Masterbuilders of those days. The hobby sets are often praised as pretty much the ultimate builds in the old Lego style, and I tend to agree (the cars from that series are fantastic as well). The masts for example are set into the hull by technic axels, one of the few more modern elements in this build. They more or less promise masts that might stand on their own, without the rigging I really needed. The original 398 set was from 1978, the in 2003 reissued set was number 10021. I did not know what I was getting, luckily it turned out to be the 1978 set. The first round was what is now known as knolling; sorting the bricks type by type, in neat stacks, well laid out on a surface. The ideal way to check if you got everything, and it makes for a pretty easy way to handle, find and store bricks. I usually stack bricks with one or two studs free left or right, for easy counting and separating them. It took me 2 afternoons, mixed with reading online, checking the Bricklink inventory lists for this set, and with reading up on the real ship. 978 parts. I was missing a few 1x1 yellow plates, but I had enough in my stash to get that sorted out. (for those in the want: these are all the bricks for the original build, I tend to use pictures like this as sort of bricklists for my own builds) The yellow 1x1 windows mark this as a 398 set, the 10021 set used yellow 1x1 'headlight' bricks because the windows had gone uhm, out the window (perhaps nautical terms are more clear: The yellow windows had gone over the wall? Or is that just Dutch briney?). Building. Round one... I had managed to gather instructions for the set from the internet (taking care to get the right ones for this particular set), and it was time to start building. Reading the (not to big and slightly unsharp) scanned instructions was sometimes hard. This is old fashioned building; counting studs with several steps added per drawing. It took me a few restarts to get it right. As ‘Questforbricks’ once noticed in his blog, the joy of building with Lego is also a matter of timing. Don’t push it, we are doing this for fun. So stopping at the right moment is important. It is nice if something has progressed far enough to show progress, and it is even better to end a session with a product that invites you to work some more on it. So I made a pause at what I hoped would be the right moment. (wreck of the Bayard, South Georgia) Right now, the hull resembles a shipwreck. A ship, run aground by accident or on purpose, and left to fall apart where it stranded because it is not in anybody’s way. In a cold climate, such a ship takes a very long time to fall apart. Yep, things are going swell... No decks and superstructures, but already a recognisable hull, with just a few stumps where the masts used to be (or are going to be), beams and girders bare. That is pretty much how the ship looks now. The keel is laid, from here it is all upward and outward. A good time to leave it for the next round. Second round Although I had to go back and forth a few times on the bow, all-in all things progressed nicely. Most problems I had were with the slightly fuzzy instruction prints I had made; especially with the red and yellow plates, it was not always clear which plates were used. And these are old style instructions, no step by step exploded view. You get a drawing, and in the next drawing, a lot of bricks and plates have been added. It is a matter of counting studs and searching to spot all the differences. Regularly I would concentrate on one part of the ship, and miss steps on the other end of the ship. Back up two or three steps, to see what I missed there, and add those too. All in all I enjoyed this a lot, it is more fun than just brick by brick doing as you are told. An evening of building, and an hour the next day finished the hull. I must say, I am not a fan of canon bristling ships, and not the biggest fan of sailing ships from this period (beginning 19th century), but this is turning out rather nice! The thin white line seems to be the waterline, a bit higher up than I expected, but yes, it seems about right. The overall shape is very good, and the silhouette of the hull works remarkably well. With the black bricks, the blocky appearance of what should be smooth ship curves (the basic Lego problem in building ships) is hidden rather well. It is only in the lighter details, like the gilded bow, that the ships shows its Legoness. The interrupted white band of the gun deck does add a lot of character to the ship. The black brinks also resemble the planks of a wooden hull nicely. And there are a lot of small details that I do love. There are little roof bricks used in slits in the deck, that depict stairs going down to the lower deck. The ships bell is represented by an unprinted minifigure head (back when knolling, I expected it to be part of the figure head of the ship). There is a capstan and a steering wheel, although the capstan is placed a bit awkward between two openings in the deck (a scale problem I expect, a capstan is massive). The one thing I am not too sure about are the glass plates covering part of the gun deck. I expect on the real ship this would have been a grated hatch, and I am thinking about replacing them with black plates. But first I want to build the ship according to instructions… The small yellow windows (one of the things that show this to be a 398 set) add a lot of life to the stern of the ship. And this was a nice point to stop until I had more time... Third round lucky? The masts, spars and sails were a lot less work than expected, and flew on. The masts are a bit massive from the front, but a lot stronger and better connected than anything I did in my youth (rails and plates...). And the stowed sails add quite a bit of life to the masts. The minimal rigging was just that; minimal. And a bit of an embarrassment to be honest This is the ship as intended. Hmmm, the end result is slightly less appealing than I expected. I finished the ship as per instructions, including the very minimal rigging. And all in all it certainly is an impressive build, large and not bad at all… But several parts are screaming at the boat-nerd in me to get corrected. The bulwarks (the sides of the ship above the deck) are too high in some places (technically correct, but it throws off the lines of the hull due to scale effects). I am not a fan of all guns out (there might have been a different opinion had I been 10 year old me). I also discovered it will not be possible to rig the ship properly until I do some serious rebuilding in the hull itself. At the sides of the ships are rests, boards sticking out for the shrouds and stays of the masts, and they are too far forward to set up a realistic rigging. I need to move them back until they are behind the centre of the masts. And when I do that, I might as well close all the canon ports, at least at one side, to make for a smoother hull. (rolls up sleeves, spits in hands, time to get some modding done...) Modding Most urgent; correcting the rests for shrouds and stays on the sides... On the left side the build as instructed, on the right the uhm, right way for shroud and stay boards ( I know I should have stuck to nautical terms)… I closed the gun ports and enlarged the fighting tops in the masts (those are the plateaus at about 1/3 from the bottom of the mast that look a bit like low crows nests). I also lowered the boom on the mizzen mast, so it came closer to the deck. As an addition, I decided to try and make a little more difference between the stowed sails. A few not yet fully stowed, like a ship entering Harbour? I also added some stowed stay sails to the bow sprit. I was a bit unsure whether the half stowed sail looks too blocky or not, but they do add a certain liveliness to the whole. I also experimented with more realistic guns on the deck. But the ones I liked best were too big for the rest of the deck, so I decided to leave them off entirely. The most interesting design would be 3 studs wide, and 4 studs deep (on a deck that is 8 studs wide). Too bad, too big… Rigging Back in the old days when I build Lego sailing ships, rigging it was pretty much the main event. It was not much different this time. All in all, I build the ship in 4 sessions, a few hours each, perhaps 7 or 8 hours in total. Between the instruction-finished model and my own version I had 11 sessions, some just an hour, but several 3 or 4 hour long sessions. Yep, that was the main event alright. I would pester Mom until she would give me a card with darning wool to rig my ships, and spend days at trying to get it right or at least slightly logical. I intended to do the same thing now, using that very same darning wool. Which turned out to be easier said than done. For starters, I could not find anything like that stuff in my town. Don’t people darn their socks any-more? Uhm, well truth be told, I don’t. I wear thin cotton socks these days, and any repairs feel like pebbles in my shoe. Right. Who still darns socks? I tried some some strings, like cotton or knitting wool, but they all turned out too thick to clamp between bricks easily. I really needed that darning wool! Luckily and much to my surprise, those old cards with wool were still readily available in Germany, just across the border. Ha! It took me a while to figure out how to do the rigging best. The big difference between real rigging and a model is the lack of pulley’s, deadeye’s and other bits and bobs that allow to tighten ropes one by one. In Lego, you do one rope right, tighten the next rope, and the earlier rope suddenly show slack… Especially the shrouds (those web like side ropes up into the masts, that sailors climb) took some experimenting to get right. And as always in a model, there are decision points on what to show, and what to leave out. Once I had figured out a way to do it, I removed all the ropes done so far, cleared the masts of all the spars and started anew. It takes some planning to make sure I could reach all the points. Once certain ropes were in place, you could not get everywhere anymore. Basically I had to work from back to front, and from the centreline of the ship to the sides. The ‘running' ropes (moving ropes, used to hoist and lower sails, or trim sails to the wind) are ‘new’, signalled by a light tan (for new or less worn ropes) or a dark brown colour (for older ropes). The stays, shrouds and other ‘fixed’ lines would be tarred, so those are black. All in all this looks a lot more like I hoped for. The ship has proudly resided on my display shelf for over a year, until dust threatened to take over (the ‘hairy’ wool is a great dust-collector, and all the lines and ropes make it virtually impossible to dust the decks and bricks). All in all it has been a pleasure to build, and was quite a sight on my shelf. I plan on building something older in future, but strongly based on these building principles... Might be a while though, for right now I am lost in space... -
Hello everyone! This is my first post here, and I want to introduce myself with my Spanish Galleon build! (excuse the pirate flag its the only one I have at the moment) The ship itself is more than 2,000 pieces with more than 15 yards of rigging. It has a total of 4 decks, which carry its 24 guns. I have been planning and working on this build for the last 3 months and very happy how it turned out! This is my first large ship I have built, and it comes in around 3 feet long (just the deck) and 2 feet tall, which means its about 1/2 of minifigure scale! I used a combination of different hull techniques that I learn here to give the hull its shape. I have yet to include sails but will be working on that shortly! I have different stages of the build on my Flicker which you can check out here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/183944563@N05/sets/72157712187520373/ Here it is side by side with a official Lego pirate ship! As you can see its more than double the size! Lastly this has recently been posted to Lego Ideas and your support would be greatly appreciated! I think it would look amazing with the upcoming Pirates Bay set coming out later, but also we need to show Lego that fans want the Pirates and other classic themes back on the shelfs! With your support we can bring awareness to this! https://ideas.lego.com/projects/87e933b4-7625-44cf-be1a-fda4369acdd3 Some more pictures!
-
Cog or Kogge A cog is a type of ship that first appeared in the 10th century, and was widely used from around the 12th century on. Eventually, around the 14th century, the cog reached its structural limits. This model is a somewhat generic version of this ship. However, some features narrows it down to being from around 1300, +-50 years. The ship type was a northern European brake from the sleek Viking ship. The need for spacious and relatively inexpensive ships led to the development of this trader workhorse. Fore and stern castles would be added for defense against pirates, or to enable use of these vessels as warships. It is in minifig-scale or 1:40’ish. The model will have the dimensions Length: 68 cm, Height: 75 cm (with stand), Width: 19 cm (Beam) There is approx. 4300 bricks in the model.
-
[GoC - Sloops for the RN] Class 3 Cutter From the shipyards of Quinnsville comes a ship built for greatness. A ship that is intended to serve in Her Majesty's Royal Navy and protect the shipping of Corlander businesses. To answer the call of Rear-Admiral Fletcher to build ships to protect the interests of the Crown, a cutter rigged vessel has been crafted from the fine timbers of Cocovia. Cutter 1 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr The Ship is but lightly armed with 6 four pounders, but offers plenty of maneuverability thanks to its cutter rigging. Cutter 4 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr Such a small vessel doesn't require a ships wheel, but merely a tiller to control the ships course. Cutter 3 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr Currently, she is only staffed with a bare-bones crew as she makes her way to the other side of Cocovia to join the ranks of the greatest navy in the Brick Seas. Cutter 5 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr ------------------------------------------ My first entry towards the GoC Oaken Shield Tasks. I am quite happy how the vessel turned out, especially considering my limited real brick collection, but there is always room for improvement. C&C are welcome and apprecieated and thanks for looking! @Ayrlego @Bregir @SilentWolf @Captain Dee
-
Still not pirate ships, as such, but some of them could be handy for a bit of raiding. The models resemble five ships from just after 1000 A. D. Viking-age in Scandinavia. They are minifig-scale or 1:40’ish. The largest model, Skuldelev 2, will have the dimensions Length: 80 cm, Height: 40 cm (with stand), Width: 10,5 cm The smallest model, Skuldelev 6, will have the dimensions Length: 29 cm, Height: 21,5 cm (with stand), Width: 7 cm There is approx. 4900 bricks in the models combined. With 2100 going to Skuldelev 2, 1100 to skuldelev 1 and 450-700 bricks for each of the other ships. The main source of reference is the The viking Ship Museum: Vikingeskibsmuseet i Roskilde The focus of the museum is a permanent exhibition of the five original Viking ships excavated nearby in 1962. The line drawings and data found at the museum is the basis for the models and the replicas Ottar, The Sea Stallion from Glendalough, Roar Ege, Helge Ask and Kraka Fyr are invaluable source material for the colors and final look. Information about the ships can be found here and at the links found above https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skuldelev_ships Skuldelev 1 A “large”cargo vessel (Knarr), 1030 A. D. Skuldelev 2 (and 4, see information) A Warship (Skeid), 1042 A. D. Skuldelev 3 A cargo vessel (Byrding), 1040 A. D. Skuldelev 5 A small warship (Snekkja), 1030 A. D. Skuldelev 6 A fishing boat or small cargo vessel (Ferje), 1030 A. D.
-
Forge Class Destroyer- LL619 “Dominion” Length: 262 meters Armament: Anti-cruiser dual link Crusader Magnetic Acceleration Rail Cannon (4) Cruiser Buster missile tube (6) Peacekeeper long range orbital bombardment cannon (2) Rocket turret (1) Ion burst cannons (2) Heavy laser turrets (5) Quad link anti-fighter laser turrets (15) Complement: 9 Warden Class Interceptors (upper hangar) 6 Governor Class Heavy Bombers, 2 Transports shuttles or- 1 Kiltrip Defender Corvette (lower hangar) Crew: 235 Following the successful deployment of the Forge Class Battle Cruisers, the New Coalition found itself well position as peacekeepers. Peace, however, is often fleeting. A dissenting faction opposed to all forms of centralized government sprung up in the outer system of Conteruim. The Teriums as they become known retrofitted a number of older vessels with thick armor and multi directional weaponry. While the Battle Cruiser's Centurian weaponry was able to penetrate the armor plating, its line-of-sight design made engaging multiple Terium vessels difficult. To combat the Terium tactics, the New Coalition developed a new ship, the Forge Class Destroyer, equipped with direction port and starboard Crusader MARC cannons capable of eviscerating the armored Turium turtles with greater efficiency. The Destroyer also carried a larger complement than the Forge Class Battle Cruiser including heavy bombers or the ability to house a Kiltrip defender inside the Destroyer if bombers were not required on mission. The Destroyer also modified the hangar configuration as compared to the Anvil Class Carriers and the Battle cruiser to allow for hot take-offs and landings from a forward facing hangar opening. See the build log of the SHIP here:
-
Broadside is one of my favorite triple changers ever since I set my eyes on his G1 toy photo decades ago. I had a chance to acquire Chinese KO version of him many years ago (bundled together with a few KO combiner limbs) but sadly missed out on it. So I never owned / played with this toy to understand his notoriety as a brick-former in the TF fandom. Anyway... 9 years ago I attempted LEGO Broadside version 1 (below) . VERSION 1 As you can see... the ship mode looks fat and the plane mode has saggy wings. duh! VERSION 2 Few months ago I started this v2 project after I saw a photo of Macross Valkyrie in my FB feed . That's an eureka moment where I kinda got the transformation to jet mode figured out. From there , I took a few breaks in between to retreat, rethink and redo it to get the right shaping in both his alt modes. Inspired by USS Nimitz, the back of the ship mode must be symmetrical to provide more mass to form robot legs, unlike an actual ship show above . Compared to v1, the ship mode v2 here is missing armaments on the deck. This is a nod to G1 Broadside's bio about "his vulnerability in ship mode and the need to rely on his passengers to protect him." USS Titanic is a Transformer too :) One of the transformation step: fold the ship deck to form the jet mode's rear. JET MODE Jet mode was inspired by F-14 Tomcat. Since the ship mode is long, this causes the halved deck to form pretty long wings for the jet. ROBOT MODE! In the actual G1 toy of Broadside, he's equipped with an Axe and also a gun. Here, I've decided to integrate them both as a single weapon (Axe turning to gun)... and it's named Hull-Raiser. :) When not on active duty, he tend to his farm and crops. With fellow triple changers that I built recently, Rodimus Prime and Snapdragon For more photos of Broadside v2 and clearer visuals on how he transform between modes , click on my blog link below: https://alanyuppie.blogspot.com/2019/08/lego-triple-changer-broadside-v2-part-2.html don't forget to follow me below! http://instagram.com/alanyuppie78 https://www.facebook.com/alanyuppiebrick https://www.youtube.com/user/alanyuppie
.thumb.jpg.e660cf72f2e60ec12f7362dac3534e35.jpg)