Eurobricks Counts
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  1. There is just a set of bevel gears which invert the rotation one one half of the steering shaft. The bevel gears are inbetween a clutch and clutch gears. I'll add photos of this soon. Here is my second update, I think using wheel axles made out of motors is a good move because: It is super strong and compact since the 3 motors are crammed together. It allows for much more torque and less axle stress on the steering and the drive. It allows for both the same three steeirng modes as what the class xeron tractor has, as well as the ability ti just use rear wheel steering AND lao to have skid steering. It takes up less parts and space than the stock axle so I can have bigger/doubled up shock absorbers.and more suspention travel. here is the first prototype: there will be another one of these fpr the front unit controlled by 1 or 2 buwizz's
  2. hi all, I finally got round to modding the set in real life so that it has 4 track steering and soft shocks all round. I basically just copied the entire front unit again and put it where the rear unit would go. I ran out of yellow cross blocks and DBG 3x5 liftarms thin so just used alternate colors. I decided to remove the red 4L centre diff from my original mod idea mainly because it it means there is reduced torque and one wheel already stalls if there is even the slightesy amout of friction. I did manage to bodge a steering mode selector like in the claas xerion tractor as well as the wishbones attached to the exaust pipes. The rear tracks might catch against the bodywork but it is too flimsy to properly text yet. (hence the bodge job). I later want to motorise the drive, steering, whinch, doors, and roof later on. I might just put a motor per track like efferman did. Regards, snipe
  3. Hi, I noticed that the 8479 bar-code truck set has two slots for an old 9v motor, one on either side of the truck. What would the purpose of this be? can one motor be used for one drive and the other for the grabber/tipper? That would be cool functionality, especially for a set this old. The motors would just connect to the codepilot itself. There is no reference that you can add two motors according to the instruction manual from what I have seen (unless I missed something) It looks like there is a 24T gear right where the motors 8T gear would be so its like lego intended it to have two motors.
  4. Another three copycats found when I was trying to find new 2018 lego technic videos: I'm closing my accounts if youtube dont start using real moderation.
  5. Another theif spotted stealing several users videos: He has stole content from brick builder, austrian lego fan, sariel, etc Funny how Ive spotted 3 theifs yet youtubes stupid bots can't spot ANYTHING and they think that's a superiour strategy. I know we should not have to mass report videos before youtube gives a crap but it's all we can do.. So please report this channel and in the meantime, happy building!.
  6. Here you go: Just buy a couple of these brackets and put the nozzles and hoses through the pinholes. Clamp the two bracket halves together using the top two pinholes with a 3L liftarm (for example)
  7. I got it all the way in the pinhole in LDD. Maybe I was not clear enough, I meant can somebody actually test putting it in a pinhole in real life. I will buy some but want to do when I have more different parts to order. I'll post the lxf file soon but cannot see much point to it. regards, snipe
  8. Never mind, I'll just buy some and test it out. in LDD it fits fine. I don't need the connector to click into place like pins do because the connector is sandwitched between two15L liftarms. I don't need to worry about it rotating like pins do because the motors output and axle will prevent that from happening.
  9. Hi, I have always wondered if this part is compatible with lego technic pin holes. I have a MOC situation where I need to have an axle thru-hole which also can be meshed with the pinholes of two beams which are 1L apart. I could use the new technic connector pinhole with 1L axle on opposite sides, placed sideways with a 3L pin connecting the beams but the connectors axles are too short, hence the need for an axle thru-hole. Can the sides of part 24122 be placed inside of pinholes? even if it means having to twist it in due to it being a tight fit. axle joiners or #2 connectors are too long also. Regards, snipe.
  10. Here is an update: If the light saber pieces fit into the pin holes then I cannot see any other problem with this version which means it is basically complete for now unless I can later improve it, the priority now is to work on a totally different section of the model. Here are the images: Here is the LXF file problem A: a non idler hub would tie itself to the XL motor support holes but would not allow the motor output to rotate. problem B: an idler hub would not tie itself to the XL motor support holes but would allow the motor to rotate. Solution: the spokes should be meshed to the EV3 motor output and the black half of the turntable I used a light saber handle piece for this because it has an axle hole instead of a pin hole. The gray half of the turntable is only fixed onto the PF XL motor pinholes. and is not meshed with the PF XL motor output. The turntable keeps everything tied together so axles or pins do not slip out of their holes under weight. I will probably use a 60T turntable soon as I can put the EV3 wires thru the centre but still have room in the centre to replace the light saber handle piece if it does not fix
  11. Small update: I have built half of the above and have decided to use 99009c01 or 18939c01 turntables in between the PF motors as the center hub is not likely to slide out of an EV3 motor where as with PF it does slide out. Since the turntables are almost impossible to separate this will keep everything tied together nicely They don't need to also support the spokes though because that was very difficult due to lots of weird pin hole directions and obstructions. Here is the build anyway: Note in the top pic the PF motors and enclosure is slouching down, even since this is half a model is still was not good enough. Changes: I am now using either a buwizz, or EV3 brick to control both the PF and EV3 motors. I have also added bracing to the PF motor enclosure as the motors would twist white a bit. I am using an NXT motor and slightly different struts, again this is only one half of the model as the rest of my yellow curved gear strips are in the other house. Please note (I should have mentioned before) that the PF motors are only supported by the weight of the buwizz/EV3 brick + some extra weights if needed. It must always point down towards the ground, unless I use the toothed half of the turntable for driving the yellow rings and make some sort of custom upscaled axle out of beams which is connected to the gray half of the turntable. The entire model in the LXF file will be replicated x19 and all connected together into one long tube with an EV3 motor on EACH end of the whole tube.
  12. Hi I have decided to abandon using the turntables and bearings and am going for this setup: The master motors (EV3) bear the load of: The PF motors (orange) The PF motor "back to back" mounting enclosures. (orange) The PF motors shared axle (green) The struts (pink) The spokes (red) The spoke center hub (Yellow) The wheel (blue) The battery boxes (white) The inner motors (PF) bear the load of: The spokes (Red) The spoke center hub (yellow) The wheel (blue) The struts (pink) Battery boxes (white) ill be mounted on the PF mounts to add a counter weight, else the PF motor outputs will be stationary and the motor housings will rotate instead The reason is because the EV3 motors do not fit inside of the wheels so I had to use the next closest thing but with enough torque (hopefully) Here is the LXF file, I have color coded each section according to the above lists. Missing parts: PF rechargeable battery box (substituted with PF AAA battery box) PF pole reverser switch (substituted with PF extension cable)