johnnym

@kodlovag: Nice truck! I also see some 8081 in front and windshield. That's also a nice touch. Don't you agree @Thirdwigg and @rm8? And CaDA wheels and tyres are an interesting variation. BTW, how do they look from the other side?

@FX6000 and Nikolay Gamurar and Mikhail Biktimirov: That's a cool car you designed and modified and a great replica of the "real" car. Will one of you maybe produce a small video showing it drive? That'd be nice. Or is there already a video up for the original model? Didn't notice that at first. That's a cool idea! It allows to use modern rims with the cool old tyres. Apart from using different width tyres at the rear, did you notice any strange behavior when driving the car around? Is the combination of a modern 56145 rim with modern narrow 30699 tyre and old wide 6594 tyre stable enough for "hard" driving? I plan to use that combination on my Turbo Racers line of vehicles and those are pretty fast and powerful. Another question: The 15413 tyre at the rear (right side) looks interestingly mounted to the rim. I mean from the pictures it looks like the flanks are inclined towards the rim. Hot did you get that effect, as usually the flanks are vertical (90° angled) to the ground and parallel to the flanks on the other side?

Clearly Brian's Eclipse was the model for the 8649. I believe so, the first F&F came out in 2001 IIRC and the 8649 is from 2005. I'd terribly like that, too. If LEGO doesn't do it, we can still make it happen on our own, e.g. see this Supra, or @Thirdwigg's 42098 mod, or @Arioh's Drifter (42098 mod) or my mod of the Drifter etc..

The bed looks a little too short to me now. When checking the side picture of the real tremor the bed seems to be as long as 4/5 of front and cab. Did you change its length since the first post or did you move the rear axle? I like that, too. Maybe recheck the lights, when the grill is ready. The parts @sirslayer is using for the headlights of his "Black Widow" truck could work in addition, or what is used in 42070.

+1

Thanks, I actually have a few of those since a while - see for example my Turbo Racers vs Police Interceptor series - but here I wanted to show what can be accomplished with PF motors alone. Do you have a detailing post about that front axle somewhere and would it fit in the available space (see first picture in the first post)?

@Ngoc Nguyen: If you prefer the sprocket side of the rims facing inwards (i.e. what you did at first), it should work, when you remove the yellow half bushes - at least it does for my PF mod of this set. Similarly at the rear, removing the round plates could allow to switch the rim sides of the rear wheels, too, without (or with light) touching (of) the axle support and not too much protrusion. If the rear rims touch the axle support, I think you can still replace it with a single bush in the original construction, the axles should still have enough support at least on one side - though I don't know what happens on the side with the diff. @kbalage: What's your experience? Can the axle supports be replaced with bushes on the diff side of the rear axle w/o loosing too much support?

@sirslayer: Ok here's a short unedited video showing it drive with BuWizz 2.0 in ludicrous mode. As it was very sunny, I didn't drive it with PF battery box and IR. Coloring is now also more solid, with only three panels missing in the desired color:

@Maaboo35: Ok, I have to check on mine.

I created a short video showing the V2 Buggy in action (with slightly different coloring and a small modification on the rear axle to keep it together - maybe more details on that later). The video is unedited as I basically have zero experience in video making. Also sorry for the bad sound, I don't have a muffler for my camera's microphone but also wanted to keep the motor sounds audible. I was driving in ludicrous mode the whole time and 28z => 20z => 12z gearing was used.

@Thirdwigg: Thanks a lot and very interesting build. I'll try to use that front axle construction in my mod of your 4x4 8081 mod.

@Andman: Thanks for clarification. Though it's sad to hear that they can't provide gears that work as well as the old ones. I have another question: Did you notice any differences on the replacement gears compared to the bad ones? I mean, e.g. visible differences in the axle hole, thickness, etc. @Maaboo35: As you speak of tan gears, I assume you mean 20-tooth gears? But "jelly-like" - never saw such. Can you leave a mark in them with your finger nails or what?

@Andman: I seem to remember that you wrote in another thread, that you got replacement gears shipped from LEGO. Say, did the replacements work better than the ones that came with your sets?

The new tyres (69 x 28 (68.7 x 27 S on BrickLink), element ID: 6262361, design ID: 52985 from 1989 Bat Mobile (76139)) are (finally?) available from shop.lego.com - here in Germany for EUR 2,43 per piece. Let's see for how long...

Thank you @sirslayer! I'll try to create a video of it driving but can't promise - weather is very unsettled ATM, maybe next week or so. Inside it feels pretty quick and powerful with a BuWizz - I still have to try with fresh batteries and PF RC equipment, but want to save that for the video shooting. Just now I came up with a quick mod that allows to use the rear wheel type (49.5 x 20) also on the front axle, which would give a little extra ground clearance there. One just needs to remove the two liftarms 1 x 3 with 2 Axle Holes and Pin / Crank that connect the two side panels on each side partly behind the front fenders to make enough room for the wheel to move when cornering.

Thanks @Mechbuilds! @rm8's original chassis really made all these models possible. I hope I don't ran out of (body) ideas for this series for a while.

F A H R maschine sneak peek:

Oh noes , the Turbo Racer got busted by the Police! Will there be a new contender? Maybe, but read for yourself... V U L C A N STORM The sixth picture still shows the earlier version, as I forgot to take a side view of the v2

Not yet, but will try to find the time for making that. Ok, I updated the digital model of my v2 mod of @Arioh's 42098 drifter mod to the state of the above presented car (incl. modified rear axle on both sides now) plus (1) some minor changes to the side skirts, (2) alternative mirrors as I don't seem to have enough black bionicle teeth (which also allow to use the spoiler panel type on the sides) and (3) black side panels at the rear - this because I had these panels already "stickered" from my first 42095 and wanted to see how some additional stickers on the sides of the car would look. Maybe a little too much black at the rear w/o stickers, but it looks good IMO with stickers applied. I used the following stickers from 42095 at the following places (you need two sticker sheets when you want to also apply stickers to the left and right sides of the rear bumper!) Front part of the car: #13 - on upper left black panel #6 - on upper left dark-azure panel #16 - on upper right black panel #4 - on upper right dark-azure panel #7 - on the power dome (slightly offset to the right!) Roof section of the car: #1 - on the left black panel #5 - on the middle black panel #3 - on the right black panel Right side (when viewed from the front) of the car: #11 - on the lower dark-azure (door) panel #6 (from second sticker sheet!) - on the black panel at the rear Left side (when viewed from the front) of the car: #15 - on upper dark-azure (door) panel #8 - on lower dark-azure (door) panel #4 (from second sticker sheet!) - on the black panel at the rear Rear of the car (when viewed from the rear): second #7 - on the lower black panel (near the left edge) #14 on the right dark-azure L beam You can also check https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/172515-lego-42098-car-transporter-mods/&do=findComment&comment=3180924Here are two renderings of the digital model: Studio (original LDD model by @Arioh, see https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ak3j15m6terlz/42098 drifter.lxf?dl=0)

I'd keep that, seems to be a good "solution" to smash some raiders in CQC: "Oh, poor fella, he got under the wheel... ooops, another one, too... so much for safe driving."

Wow, indeed, that looks like a capable trial truck. And yes, the body came out really well, especially the grill looks fantastic in the gray scale picture. Say, did you already try the Claas tyres on it? And any chance for a digital model of it? I think I could have most of the chassis parts available for a quick build.

Thanks guys, I appreciate that. I wouldn't have expected dark-azure to work so good as the main color, but with the 42095 stickers and the other colors from those stickers the result was really worth the try. I think the sides could use a little more decals, though, maybe from the bottom of the 42077 doors? Not yet, but will try to find the time for making that. Only by moving the front wheels manually: the steering angle is huge for both front wheels and they never touch the chassis or body, something that didn't work with the original car, even when removing the liftarm that limited the steering angle, the wheels then touched the parts where the front bumper is attached to. So great work for the front axle modification, @Arioh. Because of my modification of the rear axle to allow wider wheels, I think there's only just enough room to place a PF L motor in the rear center and drive the rear axle w/o diff, like I did for this one: Yeah, I know what you mean. Destruction Derby!!! I like them very much. IMHO the best thing still is the rear axle movement. The steering solution is great. Only the roof is a little weaker at the rear compared to the original model due to using axles/axle connectors instead of pin w/axle and pin connectors.

@grohl: Gorgeous truck! It just looks too good to not be the official B model of 42110 . I wonder if that would also work with the other fenders (in orange, dark-azure, dark-blue, dark-purple) and hence allow for a whole series of trucks in bold colors. Making it RWD and motorize the rear axle with two buggy motors should be fun!

Interesting design, reminds me of some old car from the 40ies maybe? A singular wheel at the rear would also be cool, but maybe not that easy from the existing parts and the propulsion motor would have to be placed higher. So good as it is. It definitely looks quick in your room and can also drift. If the original 42109 could be as quick as that, that would be something.

Well, I couldn't wait and tried to create something with what I already had and still some tiles are missing and I used plates instead. As I didn't have those upper black panels at the front w/o stickers, I used two with stickers from 42095 - I was also thinking about the cars from The Fast and the Furious - if someone still remembers the first movie . That looked interesting and so it didn't took me long to start thinking about the remainder of the stickers as using two of the main colors of the 42095 would make their application easy. I also added some stripes in the other colors of the stickers with some half-beams and like the result very much despite the striong colors - hope you, too. If I find the time, I'll also create a digital model of this version. @Arioh: As you can see, I did not exactly replicate your drift-car (latest version) but made some changes here and there similar to what I posted earlier. The front bumper was too shaky for me, so I used friction pins instead of friction-less pins with stud to attach it. The rear bumper is also a little shaky, but I can live with that and you had your reasons. I also left aside the engine and HOG steering, as I plan to motorize it in a quick and dirty fashion. Overall building from a digital model alone is a little harder and I sometimes had to take things apart and rebuild them correctly, but it's doable and saves the creator from a lot of extra work. About stability: using friction pins and pin connectors instead of axles would fix the rear of the roof better than the axles and axle connectors. Below the lower part of the A pillars a connection between the panels and the chassis would stop movement there, when you put your thumbs at the bottom of the car and pull the ends with your remaining fingers. But then you'd also have to change the way the side mirrors are attached. And it could also be that it would look different with engine and steering build-in, so not sure if this really is an issue. Looks like I got confused at that point between my changes and your model: the way you did it in your model actually provides a connection there with a 3L pin.