johnnym

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content Count

    168
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by johnnym

  1. @Andman: I seem to remember that you wrote in another thread, that you got replacement gears shipped from LEGO. Say, did the replacements work better than the ones that came with your sets?
  2. johnnym

    General Part Discussion

    The new tyres (69 x 28 (68.7 x 27 S on BrickLink), element ID: 6262361, design ID: 52985 from 1989 Bat Mobile (76139)) are (finally?) available from shop.lego.com - here in Germany for EUR 2,43 per piece. Let's see for how long...
  3. Thank you @sirslayer! I'll try to create a video of it driving but can't promise - weather is very unsettled ATM, maybe next week or so. Inside it feels pretty quick and powerful with a BuWizz - I still have to try with fresh batteries and PF RC equipment, but want to save that for the video shooting. Just now I came up with a quick mod that allows to use the rear wheel type (49.5 x 20) also on the front axle, which would give a little extra ground clearance there. One just needs to remove the two liftarms 1 x 3 with 2 Axle Holes and Pin / Crank that connect the two side panels on each side partly behind the front fenders to make enough room for the wheel to move when cornering.
  4. Hi there as nobody else yet presented a PF mod of the 42109 car (@ozacek?), I gave it a try yesterday afternoon/evening and did a quick & dirty PF mod. The result is a replica that's not totally identical in all details but comes very close to the original from the outside with considerable changes on the chassis. Differences: * Very obvious, the colors, but that was not important for the intended task. Initially I wanted to build it in red and black, but soon switched to orange and black and later just ignored the colors to save time when searching the needed parts - I have two many models built ATM and hence am low on some essential parts in the initially desired colors. The upcoming digital model(s) will use (a) more pleasing color combination(s). * The beam connecting both sides of the cockpit was moved 1 stud forward and was constructed differently to hold the PF AA battery box in place * As I couldn't find a position for the PF Servo motor that is low enough that the hood can be closed as much as in the original 42109, I used a 1 x 9 bent liftarm to fix the hood at an elevated position, imitating the look of a huge hood scoop. This way the hood is kept shut very tightly btw. * I used curved 11 x 3 panels with 2 pin holes for the side skirts, as I find them visually more pleasing then what was used in the original 42109. * The chassis is somewhat different: Instead of 11 x 7 frames I used 7 x 5 frames as I don't have 11 x 7 frames yet; 8L axles with stop for each rear wheel - so the axles can't be pulled out, but the wheels can still get loose, though I haven't seen this yet during driving and some other minor differences. The car doesn't use a differential but drives each rear wheel with a single PF L motor. Power Functions parts used: * 2 x PF L motor * 1 x PF Servo motor * 1 x PF IR V2 receiver - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF IR remote control - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF AA battery box - optional (not needed with BuWizz) [* 1 x PF control switch - actually not really needed, if the drive lines are set up in a way that both PF L motors can run in the same direction (not needed with BuWizz)] I.e. the PF equipment that came with the 9398 - not that I have one. Enough talking/writing, here are three shots, digital model(s) will come later: Using a BuWizz instead of the PF remote control equipment saves a lot of space and weight and will make this car faster. So far I haven't used it with fresh AA batteries but only with used AA batteries and a BuWizz and even in normal mode the car seems to be quicker, not to speak of fast and ludicrous modes, where the wheels start slipping on carpet and laminate floor when going backwards at full speed in fast mode or both ways at full speed in ludicrous mode.
  5. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions.
  6. Thanks @Mechbuilds! @rm8's original chassis really made all these models possible. I hope I don't ran out of (body) ideas for this series for a while.
  7. Oh noes , the Turbo Racer got busted by the Police! Will there be a new contender? Maybe, but read for yourself... Open the next spoiler directly if you aren't interested in the back story but just in the car.
  8. Not yet, but will try to find the time for making that. Ok, I updated the digital model of my v2 mod of @Arioh's 42098 drifter mod to the state of the above presented car (incl. modified rear axle on both sides now) plus (1) some minor changes to the side skirts, (2) alternative mirrors as I don't seem to have enough black bionicle teeth (which also allow to use the spoiler panel type on the sides) and (3) black side panels at the rear - this because I had these panels already "stickered" from my first 42095 and wanted to see how some additional stickers on the sides of the car would look. Maybe a little too much black at the rear w/o stickers, but it looks good IMO with stickers applied. I used the following stickers from 42095 at the following places (you need two sticker sheets when you want to also apply stickers to the left and right sides of the rear bumper!) Front part of the car: #13 - on upper left black panel #6 - on upper left dark-azure panel #16 - on upper right black panel #4 - on upper right dark-azure panel #7 - on the power dome (slightly offset to the right!) Roof section of the car: #1 - on the left black panel #5 - on the middle black panel #3 - on the right black panel Right side (when viewed from the front) of the car: #11 - on the lower dark-azure (door) panel #6 (from second sticker sheet!) - on the black panel at the rear Left side (when viewed from the front) of the car: #15 - on upper dark-azure (door) panel #8 - on lower dark-azure (door) panel #4 (from second sticker sheet!) - on the black panel at the rear Rear of the car (when viewed from the rear): second #7 - on the lower black panel (near the left edge) #14 on the right dark-azure L beam You can also check https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/172515-lego-42098-car-transporter-mods/&do=findComment&comment=3180924Here are two renderings of the digital model: Studio (original LDD model by @Arioh, see https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ak3j15m6terlz/42098 drifter.lxf?dl=0)
  9. I'd keep that, seems to be a good "solution" to smash some raiders in CQC: "Oh, poor fella, he got under the wheel... ooops, another one, too... so much for safe driving."
  10. johnnym

    [MOC] URAL 4320 Trial Truck

    Wow, indeed, that looks like a capable trial truck. And yes, the body came out really well, especially the grill looks fantastic in the gray scale picture. Say, did you already try the Claas tyres on it? And any chance for a digital model of it? I think I could have most of the chassis parts available for a quick build.
  11. Thanks guys, I appreciate that. I wouldn't have expected dark-azure to work so good as the main color, but with the 42095 stickers and the other colors from those stickers the result was really worth the try. I think the sides could use a little more decals, though, maybe from the bottom of the 42077 doors? Not yet, but will try to find the time for making that. Only by moving the front wheels manually: the steering angle is huge for both front wheels and they never touch the chassis or body, something that didn't work with the original car, even when removing the liftarm that limited the steering angle, the wheels then touched the parts where the front bumper is attached to. So great work for the front axle modification, @Arioh. Because of my modification of the rear axle to allow wider wheels, I think there's only just enough room to place a PF L motor in the rear center and drive the rear axle w/o diff, like I did for this one: Yeah, I know what you mean. Destruction Derby!!! I like them very much. IMHO the best thing still is the rear axle movement. The steering solution is great. Only the roof is a little weaker at the rear compared to the original model due to using axles/axle connectors instead of pin w/axle and pin connectors.
  12. johnnym

    Grohl's Creations

    @grohl: Gorgeous truck! It just looks too good to not be the official B model of 42110 . I wonder if that would also work with the other fenders (in orange, dark-azure, dark-blue, dark-purple) and hence allow for a whole series of trucks in bold colors. Making it RWD and motorize the rear axle with two buggy motors should be fun!
  13. Interesting design, reminds me of some old car from the 40ies maybe? A singular wheel at the rear would also be cool, but maybe not that easy from the existing parts and the propulsion motor would have to be placed higher. So good as it is. It definitely looks quick in your room and can also drift. If the original 42109 could be as quick as that, that would be something.
  14. Well, I couldn't wait and tried to create something with what I already had and still some tiles are missing and I used plates instead. As I didn't have those upper black panels at the front w/o stickers, I used two with stickers from 42095 - I was also thinking about the cars from The Fast and the Furious - if someone still remembers the first movie . That looked interesting and so it didn't took me long to start thinking about the remainder of the stickers as using two of the main colors of the 42095 would make their application easy. I also added some stripes in the other colors of the stickers with some half-beams and like the result very much despite the striong colors - hope you, too. If I find the time, I'll also create a digital model of this version. @Arioh: As you can see, I did not exactly replicate your drift-car (latest version) but made some changes here and there similar to what I posted earlier. The front bumper was too shaky for me, so I used friction pins instead of friction-less pins with stud to attach it. The rear bumper is also a little shaky, but I can live with that and you had your reasons. I also left aside the engine and HOG steering, as I plan to motorize it in a quick and dirty fashion. Overall building from a digital model alone is a little harder and I sometimes had to take things apart and rebuild them correctly, but it's doable and saves the creator from a lot of extra work. About stability: using friction pins and pin connectors instead of axles would fix the rear of the roof better than the axles and axle connectors. Below the lower part of the A pillars a connection between the panels and the chassis would stop movement there, when you put your thumbs at the bottom of the car and pull the ends with your remaining fingers. But then you'd also have to change the way the side mirrors are attached. And it could also be that it would look different with engine and steering build-in, so not sure if this really is an issue. Looks like I got confused at that point between my changes and your model: the way you did it in your model actually provides a connection there with a 3L pin.
  15. Nice pickup with a lot of functions (AWD, door locks, sliding front seats, adjustable side mirrors, openable tailgate, winch, etc.). That truck is a clear departure from the designs you presented earlier. The usage and placement of the old-style diffs is very interesting. Would you mind creating a digital model of the drive train? I like the front lights design very much - looks modern and harmonic with the wheel arches. Although the front window frame is a little bent at the top, it gives it an organic look. Hey, did you maybe miss the rear mirror there? I find the brush guard a little too massive, those axle/pin connectors are too thick IMO - similar to the roll bar in @Thirdwigg's pickup - but that's only my opinion. What parts did you use for the hood strut? I don't seem to know these parts. I assume you need the housing around the front and rear diffs for bracing them, but that could also make problems when going off-road. Imagine the truck crosses a rock that fits between front and rear wheels, depending on the height of the rock, the truck could get stuck more easily than with a design with more clearance there. But yeah, space is limited in that scale.
  16. johnnym

    [TCM1] 8081 110 Pickup

    Sorry for being late guys, but Christmas came in between. @Thirdwigg: Cool mod! It could clearly go as 8081's pickup brother - though I'm still more in favor of your sports pickup, sorry . Maybe that truck could be used as basis for a four-door 8081, that would be interesting. A pity you don't plane for a digital model (I know that's a lot of work). Would you maybe consider documenting when you take it apart (maybe with a video)? Those Fischertechnik tyres are really great - I think I originally got to know these through a video of @rm8. That front axle design would have also worked well in your 4x4 8081 mod. It would be cool if I could use that in my mod of your 4x4 8081 mod, it would allow to re-add the two cylinders I removed for better suspension travel. Using Panhard rods on the axles makes it very realistic. Say is the model that heavy that you needed to use the shock absorbers with (extra-)hard springs, or did you just wanted to have a hard suspension? I also like the front bumper - say, where did you get these LBG panels from? Making the tailgate open to one side is a cool idea and saves space. I have mixed feelings about the roll bar: IMO it is too massive - if you compare it for example with the A pillars, they're not as massive and in the end they'd have to support the roll bar, when the truck does a rollover, or? Maybe using more axles and less axle connectors would make them less eye-catching. OTOH, it seems to look different from different angles. I also changed my mind over the height of the cabin, I now think it looks right as it is. Good that you didn't bother and stayed with the original height.
  17. Oh, I didn't anticipate that. Good that you detected it, I didn't attach the wheels yesterday. I now created an alternative (ATM only on the right side of the model) but it uses a considerable amount of extra parts. What do you think about that solution? Here's the updated digital model. I'll also update the URL in the post with the picture. Ok, will do. Until now I used my mod as basis as both are not that different, but I don't remember if this one is based on your newest version. Ah, now I fully understand. Cool idea. Will take some time until I get all missing parts together.
  18. johnnym

    [MOC] RC Ripsaw SSR1-EV3

    @ozacek: I don't think it looks bad - it's like @Mechbuilds wrote: a bling bling tank ! Though I still prefer the Cheshire Cat version . Hey, maybe add some PF LEDs pointing to the tracks, might give a cool light show during drive.
  19. @Arioh Looks like I also overlooked that last question. I just uploaded the digital version of my modification of your drift car mod as Studio file and linked it from my original post: I also finally started to build your drift car from the LXF - in dark-azure. I have about 10 to 20 % or so - it just takes longer to build from a digital model alone - and am already missing some parts . Fortunately I just made an order on BrickLink that will bring in some of the missing parts. The quick-detach rear (and also front - but I haven't yet built that) is interesting - I would have fixed that with a friction pin instead of a stud, but I think kids will like that, because when crashing their cars into walls or other cars the front or rear might easily fall off, simulating the effect of a crash.
  20. Well, at first I hesitated a long time to buy one, but after buying one and using it I was totally overwhelmed by its performance with PF motors. Before that I've bought multiple train battery boxes and a V2 PF IR receiver which about summed up to the price of a single BuWizz, not to speak of the amount of batteries I went through. Well, I'd say it was worth it to check out what PF offered in this regard, but a second BuWizz maybe would have been the better choice. The only drawback at first was that I could only use it via a tablet (now phone), but I quickly got familiar with the virtual controls and there are also other means like BrickController2 and a physical controller - I just didn't have one that worked out of the box. From how I see it now, I should have bought two BuWizz 2.0 at the same time to benefit from the reduced price - which I'd also recommend if you plan for multiple/bigger MOCs, or four of them, if money is not an issue for you. I'm thinking about racing with your friends, your kids, your siblings kids, etc.. It's cool to watch and control by turns, but racing together should be even more fun. That depends on what MOCs you want to build. If you want to start with cars in the 42093 Corvette scale, a single PF L and PF Servo motor is already enough to have some serious fun. See for example my Palomino or my mod of the blue car of 42098 which both can get pretty fast without a hitch - sorry I don't have a video of it, but trust me . Or see @kbalage's 42093 A (2 x PF L) and B (2 x PF M) model motorizations. A single PF L is also enough to propel bigger scale models like my RC Buggy. Or look at @Didumos69's Greyhound with only three more - i.e. 4 x PF L (though 2 x BuWizz 2.0). IMHO these relatively small PF L motors have more than enough power for even bigger models. I'd also recommend to buy a second PF Servo motor, because you might want to keep an existing model built and create another one at the same time.
  21. johnnym

    Technic General Discussion

    Not sure if that's the right thread for this, but I didn't find a thread specifically about LEGO (Technic) tyres/tires: Replacement parts are now available for the 1989 Batmobile (76139), unfortunately the new tyres (69 x 28, element ID: 6262361, design ID: 52985) are marked "sold out" ATM. Did anybody get four of them yet as replacment parts?
  22. johnnym

    Technic 2020 Set Discussion

    Look closely at 0:41: On the left side (rear) between the red 28z gear and the thin red liftarm(s) there's a black part/liftarm, at the right side the red part (= thin liftarm(s)) is right from the black part and left from the black part there's nothing to see. If there was a 28z gear as on the left side, it would have to be clearly visible. I think there's also no room at this side, as the motor casing would be in the way. **** Doh, sorry, I didn't notice that I wasn't at the end of the thread when answering, as I entered this thread from my mail digest. Sorry for the noise.
  23. @Jurss: Thank you very much, glad you like them. And I might repeating myself, but I really like these old panels - I think the ones with the large holes have even more appeal - they seem to be just made for futuristic cars. And they're dirt cheap on BrickLink.
  24. johnnym

    TLG acquires Bricklink

    Definitely not strictly Technic but see for yourself: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/community/newsview.page?msgid=1166622 What is the impact of that move? I'm a little shocked to say the least. UPDATE: Ah, sorry, didn't saw that: ...as I usually enter Eurobricks via "LEGO Technic and Model Team" only.