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GBC General Discussion
Jim posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Great Ball Contraption (GBC) - General Discussion and Index This is a topic used for GBC general conversation, questions, hints, tips, etc. This first post will be used to maintain an Index of GBCs here on Eurobricks or other websites. Eurobricks topics LEGO GBC 8 + Building Instructions (5 modules - 2 motors) New Akiyuki GBC Instruction Index Other sources Greatballcontraption.com -
Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
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Hi After bricking bavaria 2022 I could finish my trailer with remote controlled sliding curtains, landing legs and parking brake. the mechanism of the sliding curtains works with one PU L motor for each side and two winches at the front and rear of the trailer. Over the winches a cable runs trough the floor of the trailer which pulls the sliding curtains. I'm really happy how the mechanism works :) But check it yourself in the video: The instruction for the model can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-130914/FT-creations/trailer-with-sliding-curtains/#details And some renders because I could not make any resonable pictures until now: -
Hello EB, I don't think I have seen much information on the internet about this, so I thought I'd make a video (and share it here). Often when you're running 12v trains, metal rails and motor contacts become dirty with "black dust"- dust that settles on the rails and then is burned from the friction between the metal of the motor contacts and the metal of the rails. I am sure that other experienced 12v train fans out there know this and have your own way of cleaning the rails. I made a tutorial on how to clean rails and contacts, with easy to acquire materials- I use rubbing alcohol on a rag. Hopefully this video will help some of you, now and in the future, who are having difficulty with maintaining your 12v components!
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Hello, I would like to present to you my MOC of Santa's Sleigh. Initially it was supposed to by more typical endeavor but my local LUG (WAWLUG) held a small contest to build whatever using Stuntz motors. It only had to go half a meter, which gave birth to idea of a Diesel Sleigh :) The sleigh is pulled by three Stuntz motors and one regular and on very even surface can go up to about 1,5 meters. The biggest problem is the fact the sleigh have only one wheel that is used to "ring" two bells it has. Those will swing back and forth as the sleigh go. I hope you'll enjoy this little piece of X-mas, even though it is a bit late :)
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I've been looking for a suitable replacement 12v DC motor for the Grey Era train motors since I opened 2 of mine and found that both had broken commutators, and haven't found anything so far. However, today I had an idea. Has anyone opened up one of the 12v motors from the Blue Era? Those were also manufactured by Buhler and ran on the same voltage, and I was thinking there might be a possibility that they could be used to replace the ones in the 80s motors. I may try this myself if I can get my hands on one of those motors. Thoughts? Or, if anyone has opened this type of motor, does it look like it could be swapped?
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Stupid name, I know. It wasn't intended to stick, but here we are... This MOC started out as a chassis test and grew from there. I was trying to build as compact a steam based driveline as possible, similar to my Powered Up Shunter from a while back. While that was the smallest I felt I could go with a Diesel (using strictly LEGO parts and legal techniques only) this was kind of the same exercise but with a steam locomotive. Obviously I couldn't hide a battery box in the loco anywhere, so I made a tender. Not prototypical, I know, but this isn't based on anything in particular. It's fantasy for a fictional railway that doesn't really even exist outside of a couple of locos with the WFLR initials on them! That being said, here is my design process so far. Power Tank Engine MOC on Imgur. Sorry for the whole external host thing. Maybe I'll modify the post once I get time to manually resize all the images and embed them from the Imgur links. For now, the external link will have to do. Sorry! I may convert this into a proper tank engine at some point with a coal bunker on the back and a boxcar for the battery box, but I'm pretty happy with it for now.
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Watch the Footage The Mecanum wheel is an omnidirectional wheel design for a land-based vehicle to move in any direction. The Mecanum Wheel is based on a tireless wheel, with a series of rubberized external rollers obliquely attached to the whole circumference of its rim. These rollers typically have an axis of rotation at 45° to the wheel plane and 45° to the axle line. When spinning generates a propelling force perpendicular to the roller axle, which can be vectored into: + a longitudinal component + a transverse component Minions use Pulse Width Modulation technology to adjust the speed of their vehicles. Minions change the running direction of each wheel or motor with H-bridge technology and control the movement of their vehicles by combining different wheel directions. Camellia Mini could control all motors synchronously, which keeps 4 Mecanum wheels changing direction or speed simultaneously, thus making the vehicle perform perfect omnidirectional running. www.camellia.xin Copyright © Camellia Café 2016-2021 Camellia Café and its LOGO are registered trademarks. -
I bought a set from bricklink a while ago and tested out the electronics, only to find that they were acting really strange. I'll try to explain it is as clear as possible but i may mess up a bit. So the set came with 4 motors, one of each kind, XL, L, M and Servo, and these all work perfectly fine on my own battery packs and recievers. But now i hook them up to the included recievers, so XL on red, L on blue, but then only the XL motor works. Now i'll switch them arround, but yet again it's only the XL motor that works, but now on the red channel. The L motor does function correctly when hooked up to a different reciever or straight to a battery pack. Further testing shows the XL motor works on all my recievers, both red and blue channels. The L motor works on 2 out of 4 recievers but only on either red or blu side, not both sides on the same reciever The Servo motor worked on none. And the M motor worked on 3 out of 4, also on just one side per reciever, either red or blue. And again all the motors work directly on the battery pack, or when hooked up to known good reciever. So what's going on here? How does one motor work on a reciever, but another does not? Can i throw away the motors or are the recievers at fault here? It's really frustrating because i am in the midst of making a deal with the seller aswell, but i can't without knowing exactly what's broken. It's like the recievers are picky in which motors they want to actuate and which ones not, but how's that even possible? -
Hi all, since it's now published on Brick Model Railroader group, I can finally present also here in EuroBricks my second entry, this time in "MOW vehicle" section: You already know it from the WIP thread - it's a small little patchwork of two Fiat 600T/850T vans and a FIAT 500 499,5cc (21HP) motor. Here's the full story! And here's some bonus content!!! Presentation for Octrainber ends here , but there are some other photos: Transmission is on only one axle, as in the prototype, and it's using (again!!! ) the twisted rubber band transmission. The battery is a 200Mah Li-Po, connected to a small circuit in order to charge-discharge and manage the output to the motor. It can be recharged with an USB Adapter (in this case a serial to USB adapted I had at home). And two videos, showing the rubber band transmission and a small track with the 500 in action! https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/51670350725/in/album-72157720126403108/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/51673059120/in/album-72157720126403108/ I hope you like it! Ciao! Davide P.S. for reference! For more information, please refer to this site (it can be translated) https://scalaenne.wordpress.com/2017/07/29/draisina-fiat/ and to this video, showing a restoration of the Fiat 500 Draisina - which inspired the Giovanni and Giorgio story (Italian only, sorry, maybe it can work with subtitles) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7vwRs0Akkk&t=211s
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I have made this topic to share my train designs with the Eurobricks community. Here is a quick Moc I made this morning in Bricklink Studio before breakfast. It is a simple diesel shunter with no motor and old style wheels. I will be making a motorized version to and will put in in this topic once completed along with more train stuff. I also will try to make the studio files for most trains available. Here are some pictures; studio file HERE.
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uses spike for programming and there are 2 versions using small and medium linear actuators, the code isnt perfect though and the small one skips easily, getting carbon axles for better accuracy when retracting and expanding the actuators so i dont get a big explosion of actuators and twisted axles again one medium actuator suffered :( planning to get some metal uni joints for turning this into some crawler beast -
Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.
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Digital Twin in Web3 by Crypto Accelerator with Oracle for IoT
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https://youtu.be/UFPNWZeeXQw Lego Pneumatic Engine. What is it? How to make it? The first it needs to finish Lego fake cylinder like in this video https://youtu.be/HcHneyewATE or https://youtu.be/0aZvWva41Ek. The second - to add o-ring to Lego piston like in this video https://youtu.be/wZu-l32Dajw or .
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This hover bike was built by Squidman in 2009 as part of payment for a debt to the Skull Twins, and was one of two nearly identical space hogs. The second bike had an inverted color scheme with mostly white instead of black and was called Ivory. The bike seen in this post is called Ebony, and is the last of it's kind, as the other skull twin and his bikes were swallowed by a black hole while trying to outrun the Space Police III forces around seven years ago. The bikes features two laser weapons around the skull ornament on the nose. This three-engine hover cycle is one of the fastest bikes in the Milky Way, seconded only to legendary "Rewind 3", which went so fast it broke the time barrier. So far, it hasn't showed up again, but that hasn't stopped bookies from taking bets stretching back past the last 100 years to next millennium (or two). One of the mysterious Skull Twins... no-one knows what's under the mask, with some saying that he has no face, just soul-piercing, glowing red eyes. The Ebony bike and it's Skull helmeted driver left our galaxy for the Andromeda galaxy due to law enforcement pressure in 2011, and upon his return in 2018 found the galaxy a much darker, more sinister place with the Space police IV dictatorship in place. Due to his disappearance in 2011, this skull twin was declared dead a long time ago and is using this legal void to commit a great many crimes. (The bike was remade into it's current form using only parts from the set, with the addition of the skull twin helmet, head, dark gray pants, a 2 x 2 DBG tile, and a 1 x 2 black plate. This list obviously does not include the white mini-figure stand! ) As usual, comments, questions and complaints are always welcome!
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Hi everyone, I know I am asking for a "non existing" part, but I want to create a collective thread for this topic. Maybe someone will find a way.. I am not sure any more because in realitiy this part should not exist, but I can swear that somewhere I saw a german loco (BR 51 or 53) with RED side covers for the 9V motor. Sadly the only thing I found was a "dark red" or "brown" version, what is in fact on a chinese (AUSINI) train. But it depends on the photos. At some pictures it looks like more red then brown: Interesting is the video, where the motor is dyed (not painted), maybe this could be a way to "create" a red train motor. 9V Red Train Motor (dyed) I also thought about to convert a 12V motor into a 9V or PF motor (because of the red cover of the 12V). Did someone tried this out?
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Hi, I don't own any of the fairground sets, but I'll be adding a couple to my collection pretty soon and want to motorize them. I own the power functions battery boxes that are better suited for Technic sets. Is there a difference between this battery box and the system one that shows up in the new Rollercoaster video? I don't know if the speed of the motors will be different depending on what battery box is used.
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Hello, everyone! The turkey body piece. What does one use it for? I came up with a character using only 4 pieces. Mr. Reykut is pleased to meet you! He is already greasy in anticipation of what's to come! And he sure loves turkey! "Follow me, for we shall head for the kitchen!!" "Welcome to my place, do make yourselves comfortable." "The star of today's show - the turkey!!" "Man am I going to enjoy this... I added some extra grease today!" "Please don't mind me, housekeeping ain't doing itself, you know..." "I always say that the floor should be as shiny as a freshly-roasted turkey..." "About time to turn it over. I can smell the juicy meat" "Let's grill this turkey for good!!!!!" "Yeeeaaaahhh, baby!!" And now - for some proper action!! "Nothing beats a large greasy turkey! Gravy is for wimps, enjoy the meat!!" "Shall we go for some more?" Thank you for your attention! x)
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Motor-brain Droid Brothers are: Xtra Large Motor - the eldest brother Large Motor - the second brother Medium Motor - the youngest brother Simple, but Ingenious. Ugly, but Close. A worm drive is a gear arrangement in which a worm (screw) meshes with a worm gear (aspur gear). A worm drive can reduce rotational speed or transmithigher torque. One of the major advantages of worm gear drive units are that they can transfer motion in 90 degrees. The gear ratio is: 1 to teeth of the worm wheel The direction of transmission is not reversible due to the greater friction involved between the worm and worm-wheel. Worm gear configurations in which the gear cannot drive the worm are called self-locking. The eldest brother - Xtra Large Motor-brain The second brother - Large Motor-brain The youngest brother - Medium Large Motor-brain Power - Battery and its tray, Worm Hand and Tummy - Worm gear Feet - Each foot has 4 wheels Back - Antenna and pigtail Profile - Crankshaft and Link Mechanism drive Arms and Legs Three brothers - Red, Blue and Yellow Welcome to Camellia Café http://www.camellia.xin
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(Can't find the forum relating to PF components. Since it is about the Carousel, I guess it could be placed in the Town forum) Anyway, for the 10257 Carousel, Lego recommends the M-Motor. My M-Motor from July 2017 has already become weaker and worn out! I guess it is not robust enough. Has anyone tried the L-Motor with the set? The video shows the trouble I have.
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I've searched for an answer to this for a long time, and I'm hoping I can get some help here. I'm working on a Technic car that uses PF motors to be a mobile vehicle. However, I've found time and time again that the model ends up being just too slow for my liking (if anyone has owned the 4x4 Crawler set, you know what I mean by slow). I own 2 L-Motors, 5 M-Motors, 1 XL-Motor. My question is: How do I make the model have faster speed without it looking like a skeleton car, and also, does adding additional motors increase power? For example, if I gear together 4 M-Motors so that they all end up on one drive axle, is their power combined? -
Camellia Café presents a special designed SERVO JEEP model being controlled by Camellia Café Servo motor controller with ARM technology. ' This JEEP is a Full time or Part time four wheel drive car with shrink function and Servo running model. Front wheels and rear wheels are driven by two individual LEGO motors. When both motors are active, it is a full time four wheel drive car. When either is active, it is a part time four wheel drive car. The speed can be adjusted in a large range and with good accuracy via our motor controller. With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. When using a mobile phone and Camellia JEEP APP, your children could control SERVO JEEP remotely. No matter turning, running back or running uphill, SERVO JEEP is mobile and powerful. In the SERVO mode, SERVO JEEP can run in a precise distance at a preset value. This plays a key role in autopilot and auto parking. The steering motor can be controlled with 5 degrees at minimum. Front differential and rear differential are used. Front wheels driven motor and rear wheels driven motor. Front wheels use double wishbone suspension. Steering system With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. 40th LEGO Technic nameplate. Without car cover cloth. The car body cover. Open the front cover to see the front engine. Front engine - 6 cylinders V type. Rear engine - 2 cylinders V type. Rear of JEEP. Car lights: Daytime running light, Foglight, High beam and Red lights for break. Please enjoy Camellia Café servo motor controller and drive SERVO JEEP model. And make you own car at home. http://www.camellia.xin/models/servojeep.html
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Hi there, I've noticed whilst testing 'Electric Technic Motor 9V Geared 480rpm' (47154) http://peeron.com/inv/parts/47154, it was making a strange buzzing noise whilst going both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Could this mean one or more of the internal gears are failing? Thankfully, there are four thin screws on the bottom which allow the motor to be taken apart. Are replacement gears obtainable? If not, then I have to have them either 3D Printed or cast in a silicone mold. Thanks. -
Here's my entry model for the TC13 competition: It was inspired by the real life Tesla roadster 2 both aesthetically and mechanically. The model uses 3 pullback motors in the following configuration: As you can see the rear two pullback motors power the wheel directly for best possible acceleration. BUT the front pullback motor is geared up. This additonal gearing gives the model a higher top speed and a greater range, which is a technique I have yet to see on any other pullback cars. Around 30 panels were used to give the car it's very smooth, organic shape. Notice the small yellow rubber band used to keep the front part tightly together: There is enough room in the back of the cabin to fit two or three small human beings: The rear boasts a difusor and a small spoiler in the back, just like the real thing: While this is one of my smalles models to date, I am very pleased with how it turned out. The shapes are very smooth and organic and the fact the car drives mere milimeters above ground, give it a very sporty feeling. Video coming as soon as I find enough space to run it
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