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Showing results for tags 'track'.
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What if Lego created a line of road baseplates with train tracks embedded in them? What type of sections would everyone like to see? the ones I can think of now are: single track: straight segments curve segments Junctions crossings slopes. Double track: straight segments curve segments junction segments crossover segments crossings slopes. general: sections where track is are either red or green in color for public transport only sections where track is are same as rest of street for mixed traffic Sections where there is interlaced track should be included such as special points and other areas for such track there should also be areas where the tracks transition to normal LEGO rails as well
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At Brickworld 2011 in Chicago, OnDrew J. Hartigan made an interesting presentation about various types of modifications of standard LEGO tracks and switches (9V and RC). The following picture shows a modified switch with the switch throw on the opposite side to provide clearance for 8-wide and Longer rail cars. Unfortunately - and unlike most of the other modifications presented - there are no details on how to proceed. (According to Hartigan, this modification takes only 20 minutes). Can somebody provide details on how to proceed with this particular modification? (Copyright OnDrew J. Hartigan 2008 - 2011)
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I was fiddling around with an old car MOC found on Rebrickable (based on a vehicle from the LEGO City Undercover game), seeing what colors I could make it into when I discovered dark tan was possible. Me being me, I then turned the car into a rail mobile because I thought it would look cool on my railroad. Thus, it became Track Inspection Vehicle No. 4. It may sound odd, but during the 1970s, railroads in the US were cash-strapped, worn out and over-regulated - they were looking for cheap, quick fixes in every way in order to stay afloat, and this was a way to save a few bucks. If you are wondering why I chose this color - it is meant to be a dirty, ugly, strange color as the railroad isn't trying to impress anyone with this vehicle... and this kind of dark tan actually was a popular color in the 1970s! The rear of the vehicle. The car's roof comes off so one figure can sit at the wheel and the trunk opens. Thoughts? -
Does you track need to be repaired after a major storm? Want to connect Point A to Point B with a brand new rail-line? Did the Flying Kipper have another accident on the main line? Or maybe you want to upgrade the signaling and double track the line at the same time? Call out the Maintenance Of Way (MOW) train to fix all these problems and more! This train consists of a late-1950's diesel locomotive, or a mid-1930's large eight-driving wheel steam engine and six specialty cars: - a (working!) crane car - depressed-center rail wagon - a (working!) ballast hopper - a tanker car - workman's tool car - caboose The 4-8-4 steam loco is new-to-me, and began life as a 2-8-4 Berkshire type built by Plastic_Goth and purchased from Rebrickable a seen here. To make this steamer, I upped the wheel count of @Plastic_Goth's locomotive by another leading axle, making it into a 4-8-4 Northern-type from the original 2-8-4 as built in the instructions. The new piston / wheel assembly is entirely my own work, as is the completely new 7-wide tender. The inside of the cab features two gauges and the firebox door. This model was originally a ALCO MRS-1 built by @SavaTheAggie, but has been so severely modified that it no longer looks like the prototype loco. So I went searching And found another ALCO locomotive, a RSD-12 that looks like my loco. Both my model and the prototype have the six wheels, and the same basic hood and cab design. The long hood of the loco has been designated the rear with a double red light. This car carries liquid weed killer for use after the track has been laid. This stream crane model was heavily inspired by Whoward69's instructions for a set of crane and match truck train cars. I modified the original model seen here. (sadly, it seems his Flickr profile and pictures has been deleted) I originally meant for the crane to have ropes to move the boom, but it got confusing on which rope went where so for now it's moved by the H.O.G. (Hand Of God) method. The crane can spin around in 360 degrees and lift anywhere up to 90 degrees straight up. (Their is a double set of pins keeping the boom from going too low, as well.) The heavy-duty depressed-center wagon has brick-built arms to secure the cargo of prefabricated railroad track in place. This model was inspired by a coal hopper on an older website called LGauge .com. I turned the old finger hinges into new pin-orientated ones and colored the car yellow to match the MOW paint scheme. The hopper's bottom doors open and can dump 1 x 1 round plates / bricks onto the tracks for ballast. This old passenger car carries the workmen and their tools. The caboose features two ladders (one per side) and more of those fancy printed 2 x 4 tiles. If you like what you see in this topic, check out the home base of the train and assorted other vehicles in this thread here! Thoughts? Comments, Suggestions, & Complaints always welcome!
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The next project brewing in my head will be a place for my tube trains to call, two through tracks and side platforms. I would really like to be able to use 32 stud baseplates for this (four of them end to end). The question is, can I narrow the gap between long lengths of straight track, e.g four stud gap rather than eight, and easily bring them back to geometry at the ends, not necessarily using standard Lego curves/straights, and avoiding flexible track if possible? -
Hello, I want to share with you my first creation after 20 years in dark ages without lego Inspired by official lego model 42005 Monster Truckgreat color designoptimized for playabilityenhanced functions:* better steering radius (only front axle steering) new functions:* reel with hook* tilting trunk* openable gull-wing dooras any other tracked vehicle on hard floors it lacks, better play with it on carpetor as an alternative use big wheels (41896 43.2 x 26 Technic Racing wheel + 45982 Tyre 81.6 x 38 R Balloon) Side by side comparission with 42005 (with wheels and tyres) 130 pages of generated instructions for intermediate level builder (A4 landscape orientation) full gallery + instructions sample: https://bricksafe.com/pages/klimax/monster-truck-42005-alternate-42038-c-model moc details + instructions on https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-19398/klimax/monster-truck
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Hello everyone! :) This is a project begun in 2016, freely inspired by an athletics track in the north of Italy. It's populated by friends and people - some of them are ordinary, others are so odd - that used to train or work there. As now, the MOC is in a minifig scale. The track combines bricks in different orientations and some techniques (e.g. the numbers before the finish line) to make it detailed and realistic as much as possible. It's also modular to make it easy to transport and, above all, easy to continue. The current version consists of about 3700 bricks, but we're already designing the curved section. We hope this MOC can interest you and, in case you like it, keep updated following us on Flickr! FBros
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Here is my XL turntable, which has 11 dead-end stall tracks and one outlet track. (though it can be reconfigured to be as many or as few tracks as needed). It is spread out over a 64 x 64 XL make-shift base plate size made up of of 4 regular (32 x 32) curved road plates with quite a bit of overhang due to the outlet tracks and tower. The re-purposed signal tower is now being used to control the turn table. This control building is modular, and has a roof and second floor that come off to reveal inside details. The studs on the sides of the building are supposed to spell out the the yard's name, but I haven't decided on a good name yet. If you have any suggestions for a name with 10 letters or less, please post a comment with it below! This table can handle a 4-track long engine (around 64 studs) with a bit of overhang at the ends, such as with my Frisco 1522 4-8-2 steam locomotive as seen above. Diesel A + B unit sets would have to be separated and moved independently, but that's okay and actually accurate for some real world locations / railroads. The basic workhorse of the turntable is this four track long framework you see here. The table's modular control tower features a lower floor that's empty except for the staircase. The upper floor features a machine to control the turn table, a wall clock, and a old-fashioned rotary telephone. The table easily glides on an raised outer ring of tiles, and turns on a central 2 x 2 pivot point. This whole thing can be mechanized, much more easily than a transfer table, but it still needs fine tuning to make it work right. The outer ring of tracks is only attached to the base plates at two certain points: every other spot is held on by gravity. (plates on tiles) This is basically a very much enlarged version of this model here. I was working on a seven-stall shed in the same style as the tower to connect to the turntable, but the angles and hinge bricks weren't working out due in LDD. I guess it will have to wait until the turn table is built in real life.... if it is ever built in the real world. Comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints are always welcome, as usual and thanks for stopping by!
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Hi, I'm just getting the hang of LDD. It's very addictive! After a few basic models with simple bricks I have moved on to my first Technic model. I am having a go at the mini-bulldozer in Lego Technic set 8259. You can see the model has two tracks, formed of 23 x part #15379. I have created two strips of track but don't know how to connect the ends together to form a loop. How do you "pick up" one end and loop it round to connect to the other end? Can anyone help me out please? Many thanks! Stefan
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Hi, my name is Victor and I've loved Lego since I was a little kid but haven't built something in like 17-18 years. This all changed when my girlfriend gifted me with the BMW R1200 (I also love riding bikes). After initially just wanting to get another Lego bike or two to put up for display, I realized that I wanted to build my own creations again. Bought 42065, and thought how to improve it, but so many things have changed that the learning process took a while. My goal was to create a tracked vehicle that would be somewhat fast, but also easy to control / maneuverable. I decided that 2 speeds would be enough. Also, to be able to switch gears by remote control, to have suspension and maybe a nice but ultimately not too heavy body. I now think of it as a kind of vehicle that would race in a fantasy version of the Dakar Rally (if tracked competitors would be a thing). Features: - 1x BuWizz - 2x L Motor for drive (skid steer) - 1x M Motor for gear change - 2x 2 Speed transmission (1:1 and 3:1 ratios, neutral) - Soft suspension with good travel - Detailed-ish body, with easy removal Photos taken by a friend. DSC_3813-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3815-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3818-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3820-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3822-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3823-edit by Victor T, on Flickr The gear changing mechanism: from and M Motor, via 2 clutch gears, move 2 changeover catches. DSC_3826-edit by Victor T, on Flickr Gearboxes: DSC_3829-edit by Victor T, on Flickr Here's a video of me trying to negotiate a simple obstacle course (4 times :) ) - climb over some books, change into 2nd gear, accelerate and show off :P I could have refined the design more, but I want to move on to other projects, the wheeled kind :) I will likely build a "trial" version of this in the future. Praise, but especially criticism is welcomed :) Nice to meet you, Victor -
I have just came up with the idea of building a stage lighting gantry out of straight/curved roller coaster track (as seen on 70922 Joker Manor for example) https://brickset.com/parts/6210815/rail-13x13-1-4-circle-w-3-2-shaft I wonder if anything with a 'clip holder' (e.g. 4085 https://brickset.com/parts/design-4085) can attach to the central cross-members between the rails? -
One of the major problems of using my Eads bridge at shows is it's only one track wide.... so, I devised a western double-track wooden and iron structure using instructions from an old instruction I found on my hard-drive. (Originally from a defunct website / magazine called Railbricks and in a more modern concrete-looking format). This double structure is about 300 less parts than my single track Eads bridge and sits at the same height / length, so it can fit in the same spot. There are no bricks above track level at the beginning of the bridge so it works with even 10 wide trains or curves / switches immediately off the bridge! (This is unlike the Eads bridge, which cannot have turns right after it.) This trestle has about a track and a half of space between bridge end and truss section for an engine to straighten out on. The 10-wide BTTF time train fits easily though the bridge with room to spare! (time train not included in LDD file!) The new trestle is the same height and length as the Eads bridge, but with double the width for 300 less parts. The Eads bridge is also modular in construction, while the new one is not. (Eads bridge not included in LDD file!) LDD file for the wooden bridge (NO time train or Eads bridge in file!) is available at Brick-safe. Comments, Questions and complaints are always welcome!
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Hello there! Is there any concensus about what to use when tracking ones LEGO collection on the web: Is it rebrickable.com or brickset.com? Or maybe another website? I have a medium mixed collection, lots of sets, some with missing parts which I would need to take note of, as well as lots of single bricks / plates / whatever. I'd love to hear your input on what you think would be the best tool for the job. Thanks & Regards, Chris
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Hi all, In January 2014 I build a small 9v LEGO train layout. I use Mindstorms nxt 2.0 to control the trains and switches. Now I’ve found this video, I’ve uploaded to my YouTube Channel. The layout works like this: 1. Both trains are running on the outer track. The nxt motor controls the big yellow button on the Speed Regulator. 2. Due to small differences in the train motor and the weight of the trains, the come closer to each other. 3. If the distance between the two trains is to small (less than 3 seconds, seen by the ultrasonic sensor), the last train drives to the inner track and stops over there for 10 seconds. A nxt motor switches the switch. 4. The train on the outer track keeps driving. 5. After 10 seconds the train on the inner track moves to the color sensor, just before the switch and stops. 6. If the train on the outer track passes the other switch (ultrasonic switch), the train on the inner track starts moving to the outer track. 7. Then it all starts over again. Let me know what you think about this layout! I’m also curious how you guys control your trains and switches. Any automation with Mindstorms?? ?
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Hi all, I recently picked up an old bundle of 9v stuff and I'm a bit stuck with son power issues and hope someone can help. I'm a 12v guy so I'm a bit lost! ?. The transformer seems to work. I can't get any power to the track. If I connect a cable from the transformer to the motor directly it works fine (or seems to anyway). When I connect the track connector cable to the track it just won't work. I've tried cleaning the track etc. Also, if I leave the normal 9v cable connected to the motor and then place it on the track with the track connector attached it cuts the power to the motor. Does that make sense to anyone? Haha. Hope someone can help as I'm baffled. Cheers!
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Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding. -
Hallo, here is just an idea of a pait of switches which are parallel an uses a 40 and a 56 radius. just let me know in the comments what you think of this idea.
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Hi there! my latest moc is a mini track loader. it has a funtioning front blade, tilt, lift, and a rear cabin door. This was built to be like a lego set, and use color vomit in areas. I may make a b model, to make it like a real set. My neighborhood is also getting repaved, and they were using one, so it works. enjoy, and comment thoughts. instructions and parts list uploading. here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-2NrU9MqJ-WSXpHR3VjY2p5R1k?usp=sharing -
Hi everyone, Here's an older MOC virtually no one has seen. It's my first fully RC model: Thanks! C&C PLEASE! BrickbyBrickTechnic -
Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
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My second build for the 2017 LEGO Speeder Bike Contest, for the Overkill Oval category. The track was probably the most difficult part of this build, and it ended up going through several iterations before settling on the current design. Ready to tear through opponents, the Rock Wrecker’s brutal saw and powerful laser are a deadly combination. And if things really get out of hand, its deployable missiles in the hidden undercarriage compartment end things with a bang. More pictures on Brickbuilt Thanks for looking, C&C welcome
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Hi All , just signed in to this forum cause I was wondering about something .... I'm into the 12 volt train system again and was wondering about modified 12 volt track . Hs anyone done some modifiyng on tracks , switches ,etc. ? Here's some pics of my own creations untill now... A half straight track with original contacts a point prototype with same angle as 2 curved rails Let's see what you guys have !
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Already two years ago, I got inspired at defeating steep hills with the LiteJeep. That could already beat 50 degrees, but because of its high riding height (good for offroading) and relatively heavy PF L motors, I reckoned there would be more irons to put into the hill-climbing fire. Very important things for hillclimbing are sufficient grip, huge power and a low weight. Weight ultimately gives more grip, but it also causes the vehicle to flip earlier when it is located above the center of gravity. With these factors into the equation, I decided to create a vehicle with loads of grip, so with 4 rubber tracks, and with articulated steering to make a sturdy connection between right and left possible, which is essential for climbing: when any vehicle is climbing, the suspension does unexpected things, so a stiff frame and suspension setup are required. Lightweight design requires a low complexity too, so that is why articulated steering is chosen. Having a front and rear part to let the vehicle adjust its shape to the terrain is an option I used several times in my rubber-tracked vehicles. This is the first vehicle in which I used the maximum footprint instead of the triangular form, again for maximum grip. Please note that, when you choose for the sturdyness and simplicity of articulated steering ánd want to let it adjust to the terrain, the middle joint becomes very complex as it contains joints in two axes! There is always a place where pain comes back. The Law of Conservation of Pain holds here.. In this case, all the trouble was in the difficult joint, which took about 5 hours alone. Then for the power: initially an XL motor was used in the front, but having a driveshaft through the already complex dual joint proved to be impossible. And then the idea came. Why not generate the power at the place where it is needed? Why not, if there are two separate parts, have some powerplant in both front and rear? But then there was a problem: I have a very large project in which all my three L motors are used. This pushed me in the direction of using M-motors, which proved out to be a very good forced choice. Combined with the lightness of the overall model, they proved to have ample torque left with a 3:1 gear ratio, having enough torque to keep the four tracks spinning all time when grip was lost. This is amazing, and you can see why Lego has put two M motors in their latest Tracked Racer. But the limits of that thing are way lower than the Quattrack's limit. Using two PF medium motors for drive and one for steering, this one of my very few (and maybe the last) Lego Technic MOC with only 2006 components. The Sbrick will throw all range headaches away and have much less delay than the stone-age PF IR remote it is replacing. Why did I use such standard power functions components? The new PF servo is slow and quirky, a medium motor allows for much more smoothness in steering. Moreover, if you are driving at steep slopes like this, it asks all your concentration to keep it on the move. If you cannot feel where the remote control knobs are (The intrinsic problem of the Sbrick) the vehicle will fall of before you've compensated. So the old system proved to be the best system in this situation. The articulated joint actually contains 3 joints, to have a suspension force on it in both directions: up and down. That is why there are rubber bands and one shock absorber. By the way, also the steering joint is included. Now, because the front and rear part of the Quattrack are relatively conventional (no steering nor differentials), all the pain of good and accurate steering is shifted to the design of this central joint. I dare to state that the success of this vehicle relies for a big part on this 2D joint. In the video, the operation is explained. On this photo, it looks as if the ground clearance is half a stud. This is not the case; in fact, it is over 1 stud. The underside is very smooth, which helps the low superstructure to glide over obstacles. Because of the weight saving, I designed it to have very clean looks. Styling means more weight. However, I managed to squeeze in some little details like fake cabin flashing lights, front lights, rear lights, cabin seats and a steering wheel. The reason why I did this, is that I wanted it to be a possible real-life vehicle as well, not just a scientific experiment. Adding weight is bad for climbing ability, so I tested the Quattrack also with the cabin removed and say what !!? The climbing angle was the same. This front look shows all that. The Quattrack contains everything, but nothing more. You do not need a zillion pieces of Lego to break records. Only 556 grams of it is sufficient in some cases. The video is the proof of all my theories... [media] I have not put all text and photo's on Eurobricks. More is to be found on Brickshelf and MocPages. If you like my video's, you might want to take a look on my YouTube channel. -
Our first three types of custom train tracks are ready and available in our Bricklink store. The goal is to make an extended track system for LEGO trains so you have a much higher flexibility in building your layout; just like we did for the monorail. Let us know if there are any other types of track you would like to have... FYI: the tracks are printed with a custom developed Dark Blush Gray abs filament so that our tracks match the color of the LEGO RC tracks: the cross track below is 3D printed, the straight track below is a genuine LEGO track.
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We're currently working on a number of additional track types for the monorail system. Over the last few months we had a few requests for a 'monorail track tile': a tile with a monorail rail on it. Integrating monorail track into the pavement of a city layout is be one the potential applications. The tile itself is pretty straightforward, getting that tile connected with the standard monorail track is not. You can see a first prototype of these tracks below. On the right you have a prototype of a 4x8 prototype tile; on the left you see an adapter to connect that tile to the standard monorail track. It works but the ramp is too short and it's rather bumpy when the train goes over it. We're going to redesign the connector as a 4x16 ramp. The final ramp would also be printed at a higher resolution to have a smoother surface. Making curves with this system would not be straightforward either, the main issue here is that different sections along the curve all would require different connectors to match the stud pattern below. But that's not unfeasible to make, but it would be a bit of a puzzle to assemble the track. Another idea that I had was to add a 'narrow gauge train track style connector' to the tiles, as such you could assemble them without needing a base plate; that might be handy for the curves. These are just prototypes to explore the possibilities of this system. What do think ?
