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Stereo

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Everything posted by Stereo

  1. Stereo
    A thin liftarm with half-offset axle holes at one end would be nice to have. Like the cam piece but not 2 studs wide. Maybe 5 long with 3 pinholes, then 3 axleholes overlapping.
  2. Stereo
    I would probably turn the white L-brackets around so they connect the beams, but also in this situation it seems better to have the motors directly drive the tracks instead of using any gears.
  3. Stereo
    It's kinda specialist info, cause tire sizes before ~1965 didn't work the same way as modern ones. 5 means the width of the tread, 15 is the diameter of wheel it fits onto. Unlike modern tires there's no measuring the height of the tire sidewall, it's just assumed to be a similar ratio to other wheels (about 75% the width). So in modern terms it should be a 125/75r15 tire on the front, 155/75r15 on the rear. But only approximately. If you have a properly scaled side view it's better to measure off of that.
  4. Stereo
    The yellow plane on the right appears to be 60250 Mail Plane and the yellow-accented helicopter on the left 31029 Cargo Heli. The other yellow+red one is a B-model of 5866 Rotor Rescue. [edit to add] The other one in the Spaceships photo appears to be 70162 Infearno Inception. Fig with glowing eyes is Mr. E, seems to be from a couple sets.
  5. Stereo
    I suppose I'm first curious about the wheel/tire, 5.00-15 should be about 57cm tall, 15cm wide, or 71x19mm in 1:8. And Lego Technic for the most part jumps from 62.4x20 (large truck/crane) at kinda reasonable size to the very wide (for something like this) medium wheels with 68/82mm tires. Maybe Vespa 75x20 tires work? Ignoring that they have motorcycle profile. I'd probably scale off of those (1:7.5) or the 'truck' tires (1:9).
  6. Stereo
    You wouldn't be able to "drive them in" if they have doorhandles or wheel arches, but if you had the side fold open, you could load most 4 wide cars between these in windowframes https://rebrickable.com/parts/62113/bar-1-x-4-x-3-end-tabs/ https://rebrickable.com/parts/5032/chain-link-fence-4-x-6/ My train has this car in it cause anything larger doesn't really work with 6-wide trains https://rebrickable.com/sets/4544-1/car-transport-wagon-with-car/#parts
  7. Stereo
    If you have some extra vertical space, you can use a double-sided 12T bevel on the vertical axle, and mesh it into a double sided 20T bevel behind it, so that one can go to the 12T for the third axle. Since it just goes 12-20-12 there's no gear reduction and both axles end up at the same speed. A bit annoying to fit the 20T though, it's wide enough you can't have it in between 4 stud wide beams. 12-12-12 technically possible but difficult to mount the middle one since it needs half stud offset vertical holes.
  8. Stereo
    Maybe outside of trains as trains. Single axle is fine for a layout with no switches, so things like GBC constructions can use them for sure. And pretty often use multiple motors on the 'train', not just a train bogie motor.
  9. Stereo
    I suppose the simple answer is plug one of these across 2 bogies https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4758#T=C and then run the wire from that. Or if they're directly adjacent, you can just put the 2x2 plug across the electric studs on both bogies. Or use the 2x4 electric plate to bridge from one bogie to 2 studs on the next, then have the wire connect to the other 2 studs. Not sure the exact parts that most easily replace the standard "2xN plate with buffer at one end, bogie plate on top of that", but 9V plugs are easy to integrate into regular structures. Or if they're really spread out (like opposite ends of a car with only 4 wheels) just have a separate wire to each.
  10. Stereo
    I can't really see a good use of the differential, except maybe it's cheaper & lower friction than the 28t turntable. I guess technically another option is using non gear based linkages, like you could have the P1 rotate back and forth using the pinholes on the 36t gear and a 4 bar type linkage. But I'm not sure if the differential would even be useful assembled for that, vs. just using it as a 28T gear with pinhole.
  11. Stereo
    The basic principle of the differential is that the case moves at the average of the two sides (if they're both 1 rpm same way, case is 1 rpm; if they're +1 and -1, case is stationary) so if one end is fixed, the other moves twice as fast as the case. So I think that setup has the "P1" spinning twice as fast as the rings. If you instead geared it so the bottom end of the diff was counterrotating (say -4/5 of the top; 16:20 exists in lego gears) then you can have a 1/10 speed reduction. I haven't counted the number of each gear available, but maybe it'd be 12:28 bevel on the top, and 12:20 bevel on the bottom, with the 16t gears used to make one spin opposite direction of the other.
  12. Stereo
    Taillights look better to me on the official model than any MOCs I've seen, opinions on that may vary of course. Smoother, less gaps, more accurate to the colours & shapes. An alt build is impressive to represent lights at all, of course, but I wouldn't say they look better than in the set...
  13. Stereo
    There are some sets with A-model spares but I'm not sure if you'd get more than 10-15 odd pieces out of it. I know 8448 has #6 red connectors "spare" because the B-model needs them. I believe 7347 has a spare 2x4 technic plate, but I'm not seeing either of these recorded on Bricklink... Might be able to weasel some good stuff out of the 80s-early 90s "universal" technic sets where even the A model only used some of the parts. For example, what's the A-model of 8244? If 8032's A-model is the tow truck, its spares include an 8L axle, and two useful kinds of axle-pin connector.
  14. Stereo
    It's this piece, the chain is on its stud and there's a 3L axle sticking in one side that rotates freely, some sort of friction pin-axle in the other
  15. Stereo
    Also strikes me it could use a white or trans-clear bar piece with trans-orange 1x1 round plate with hole, to do the turn signal+reverse lights in bricks.
  16. Stereo
    Is that a plain red road sign? I suppose it leaves more space for taillights.
  17. Stereo
    I think teal's more for the unknown watercraft (could be white with teal accents) but I suppose we'll see. If the G-wagon is teal or purple that might lean me towards buying it instead of skipping it.
  18. Stereo
    Yeah, I'd guess 2 pin 1 axle there. It's also the 4-6 bent liftarm, not 4-4.
  19. Stereo
    "fixing" white balance agrees that it's dark turquoise (aka teal, bright bluish green). 32069 for the nose wheel hasn't been used in Technic in a long time, though it does seem to see 1-2 non-Technic sets a year.
  20. Stereo
    There are a few large gear rack parts in Technic that seem like they share common dimensions: 11x11 quarter circle https://rebrickable.com/parts/24121/technic-gear-rack-14-circle-11-x-11-35-teeth/ 6x6 quarter circle https://rebrickable.com/parts/78442/technic-gear-rack-14-circle-6-x-6-15-teeth/ 1x14 rack https://rebrickable.com/parts/18942/technic-gear-rack-1-x-14-x-2-with-axle-and-pin-holes/ Obviously the straight one has its companion housing that it's frequently paired with, which fits into the slots on the sides. I only have those pieces so I can't check the round ones, but it seems like probably at least the large diameter one could also slot into this housing (though not too usefully, since it's more than 1 stud wide where you connect 2 sections together) Are there any other parts designed to use these slots? From what I can measure using other Lego pieces, the slot is a snug 1/2 stud wide (cannot slide smoothly with 1/2 thickness liftarm in it) and pretty much exactly 1 plate deep (0.4 stud). So if something had a 0.4 stud long bar sticking into it, that could work smoothly.
  21. Stereo
    Maybe you could use something like this: The lower axle to black liftarm spins 360 degrees, when it's in the lower 180 (and a bit) nothing happens, when it's in the upper 180, the yellow piece pushes purple upwards, raising the grey platform.
  22. Stereo
    Maybe you can approach it the other way around? Build a mechanism that only fires the missiles, and use their natural recoil to overcome a centering spring (which could just be the 1x2 rubber piece on an axle in the linkage that lets them pivot, though maybe there's something with more damping on the 'return to center').
  23. Stereo
    Thanks! As usual everything thought through to make the most useful products.
  24. Stereo
    Pretty comprehensive update, only leaves me with a couple questions: - is the PCB in the connectors just a way to connect the wires to the studs, or is it doing some 'smart' things that won't be a direct equivalent for Lego wires? - is there something planned inside this system to let multiple trains control independently on the same powered rails (the motor diagram seems to have internal switches around the motor, and systems like DCC can run through track power) or will that still be easiest with PF/PU remote controls?
  25. Stereo
    Yeah, it's fortunately not too key to the mechanism anyway, it's just conveniently flat to fit the actuation into 1 stud height and 1 part. Anything that can slide (like a gear rack) could substitute. Or put gears on the red axles and drive those with worm gears.
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