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I gathered here all my W.I.P.s that I plan to do. Also, from now on, I will put in this topic MOCs too instead of making different topics for each. ”Retro styled buggy” - 1x upgeared buggy motor that wont work probably (because of the upgearing and its 740 grams / 26.10 ounces), 1x servo, independent suspension on all wheels and detachable body (with huge wing, that most likely will make the model tip on the back). It takes some ”shapes” from the Tamiya Avante Mk.1. ”Test X” - a rear wheel-drive model which was meant for speed with the PF XL motors - nonsense, I know. That is why I pretty much renounced at it when I finished the first version. It has independent suspension on al wheels, 2x upgeared XL motors, 1x servo and has a modified Flat baja II front frame. ”APACHAIHAPACHAI 15 stud chassis mod” - this, but with 2x buggy motors. Also, great work @apachaihapachai ! ”Technic Tamiya Neo Fighter buggy” - based on a Tamiya RC buggy, but unlike the RC buggy, it has a 4x4 drive-line. Fitted 2x buggy motors and 1x servo, removable body-work, positive caster-angle and full independent suspension. Als, the weight is just under 900g (pretty decent, considering it is a 4x4 and that has a pretty body plus some useless pieces to simulate the electric motor of the real thing). One of the hardest parts that still have to be done is the battery hub frames, which don`t fit in the pretty small body. ”Technic Tamiya BBX BB-01 buggy” - encountering huge problems with the rear suspension arms on the Technic BBX, I kind of canceled it. But the idea was too great to let it just be unfinished. So I returned at the 2nd model file I made, which had 2 motors and an updated rear swing-arms, but visually it was a mess and I think that didn`t work as well. In any case, I am working on a 4th redesign; the renders are from the 3rd one. ”Flat baja-truck MAXX” - with chassis based on the looks and ideas of the HPI Jumpshot SC RC baja, it has 4x4 drive from 2x buggy motors and 1x servo. As main features, it has a (pretty big) positive caster-angle, independent suspension on all arms, consolidated steering rack, space for lights in the front and in the back, plenty of space for the battery hubs, detachable body and, the cherry on the cake, the distance between the suspension arms is 0 studs, enhancing the suspension behavior and travel. The front and rear are heavily modified frames from the ”Something 4x4”, a kind of a study created for testing the same idea for spacing the suspension arms while integrating a 4x4 driveline. P.S.: At its a little over 1 kg / 35.27 ounces, this will sure need another pair of shocks. I will see how I will put them. Also, I want to do a version with RC hobby-grade electronics. And here is a closer look at the rear frame with 0 studs between the suspension arms. This is a modified frame from the ”Something 4x4” from the bottom of the post. ”Ruslan baja-truck” - based on the Eagle V2 trophy-truck - thanks to @Daniel-99 for helping me with recreating some parts of his build. It has 2x buggy motors, 1x servo-motor, (big) positive caster-angle, easily removable sides, space for about 5x light systems (1/2x back and 3x front )and 4x 9.5L hard shocks for the 4-links suspension at the rear and independent at the front. I am planning to make a version with RC hobby-grade parts in it. Here are the original topics: ”Flat baja-truck II” - same features as the first one, but this time 100% of the design is mine and also it has less parts while it has a smoother look (for me). i am still working on the instructions, so until the final steps, I only have one render with it :/ I have another bunch of W.I.P.s, but most of them I don`t consider to finish at all. You can find all of them in the ”General archive” on my Bricksafe. Most notable ones are the (I wont add descriptions because you can find the Studio files on Bricksafe): ”Red Yeti chassis” ”Superstar” ”Something 4x4” ”Bathtub dragster” -
After long pause, I sat down today to play around with LDD. Oddly the inspiration came from here - see below. This will be a concept UTV for King Of Hammers, first design is ready, I need to build IRL and test. Considering the Corona situation, it might remain digital for a while though, as I might not have all the necessary parts on stock. 323 pcs so far. Nothing special in terms of functions: suspension, HOG steering, differential with fake engine (easy pop-on/off), fake automatic transmission. The latter is just sume pulley wheels and gears rotating along with the cranckshaft, round and bulky, just like a real hydraulic one. In real model, I will fit the tire on the inner wedges of the rim, thus it will get a bit higher (~58 mm) but narrower (~22 mm) profile. -
After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
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Ladies and Gentlemen, Boys and Girls, BEHOLD: The Mighty MAZ 7310 Uragan Cargo Truck, in LEGO! This massive set, which I have designed over the course of two years, stands almost ten inches tall, two feet long, and is comprised of almost 7,000 pieces. I sat at my computer for hours a day, sometimes, surfing the web, looking at blueprints, building, deleting, building some more, etc. And now, finally, I can reveal my masterpiece to the world! Bwa-ha-ha! Okay, anyway, I have designed my set for maximum playability, stuffing it full of all sorts of awesome goodies, like opening hood, doors, tailgate, and utility boxes. A removable roof, folding rear seats, free-spinning wheels (including the steering wheel), two Diesel engine options, a generator, compressor, radiator, Master Mechanic's Toolkit, fuel and water drums, 12v batteries, large cargo container, winch, wide-load flags, roof racks, warning beacon, fog lights, two sets of mirrors, lightbars, and more! (Whew! I'm out of breath!) Now, for the real machine: The MAZ 7310 (Minsk Automobile Plant, in Russian), was a large 8-wheeled Missile Transport truck built in the 1950s and 60s. Soon after, people started using them as cargo trucks, tankers, tow trucks, and airport fire trucks. Alright, that's it! Thank you all for looking at my LEGO creation! If you have any questions, comment, I'll do my best to respond ASAP. Happy building and have a great day! Update: Also, some of you may have noticed that the cab of the real vehicle is slightly longer. This is true, I had to shorten the LEGO version out of necessity, as the extra length could’ve affected my MOC’s stability and structural integrity. I suppose I could probably figure it out eventually, but I like it how it is. Thanks for understanding! -
Hi! This thread is meant to document my first build using a custom brushless motor. If you follow the "Brushless Motors in Lego" thread you may have seen the motor design, but I give a quick summary here as well. Apart from the brushless drive motor, I am using a GeekServo for steering, and control them with an RC pistol transmitter/receiver. So lately I started experimenting with 3d printing lego compatible mounts for brushless motors. I bought a small Injora Purple Viper motor with a corresponding ESC to control it; they come in a package for about 50 Eur, that includes a 11T gear and mounting screws as well. The idea was to make a motor that fits into a 3x3x6 space including a two stage planetary reduction, which is taken out from a 3rd party PF M motor (costs about 3 Eur on AliExpress). Apart from these parts, only the 3d printed housing is needed. The result looks like this, more info in this thread. The key to this design is that it is possible to run a driveshaft right below the motor, furthermore, there's even space for heavy duty CV joints, as the motor itself is narrower: There are two obvious gearing options, 16:16 and 20:12. I checked Injora's transmissions that are applied with these motors, and they also come in two options, the "normal" provides a 1:13 down-gearing, and the "underdrive" version provide a 1:24 ratio. Since the two stage planetary reduction from the M motor is about a 1:24 down-gearing, applying a 16:16 on the output results in exactly the "underdrive" ratio, while applying the 20:12 up-gearing on the output results in a 1:14.5 total down-gearing, which is roughly the same as the "normal" ratio with the Injora transmission, so there's a pretty good speed correspondence here with RC parts. By the way, these Injora parts are designed to be a drop in replacement for TRX4M Traxxas models. So this was the starting point for my chassis, and I wanted to see first how small a 4x4 off-roader I can build, aiming for 56mm tires and two live axles. I also happened to have some soft and sticky Injora tires too that I wanted to try for a couple of years now.. For the front axle, I have been wanting to test this tricky wheel mount technique I have seen used by some builders around here, making it possible to use heavy duty CV joints at this small scale (9-wide axle between the pivots), combined with my linkage based steering techniques I used before: This is a fairly slim and dense axle for what it achieves, quite happy with it, however it misses two upper links, and the panhard rod also proved to be a bit far away, so it became a bit wobbly under the power of the servo, so I had to use other tricks to make the axle stable.. For the rear axle, my aim was to make it as flat as possible to be able to run beams right above it without obscuring the trunk space. It is an often used negative caster (torque tube suspension) setup with only one CV joint and two links and a panhard rod for stabilization. The springs are also mounted on the back to be able to lower them and so that they don't protrude to the trunk. A chassis that holds all these components together came out quite slim as well, I'm really happy that it actually looks somewhat like real RC chassis platforms! The servo is mounted fairly low at the front, and there's just enough clearance for the drivetrain even when the axle is articulated. Another key element is that the servo is in between the springs, and right behind the front axle's cross beam, and it actually stabilizes the axle, not allowing it to move too much sideways or tilt forward/backward (just enough to let it articulate freely). These limiters together with the panhard rod make the front axle stable enough so that the servo does not pull it sideways when steering, resulting in a really good steering response and a quite high steering angle! As you can see, there's plenty of space left for building internals / body and also for placing a battery and ESC/receiver to the trunk. For now, I have mounted these items with tacks onto the chassis for testing, it looks like this: As for performance, I don't yet have a video, but I am pretty amazed by this little thing. Speed control is just very smooth at startup, and with those RC tires, it can climb steep ledges with such confidence that I never thought possible with lego parts. First I tried the 16:16 gearing, but I though it does have enough torque for the faster one, so now I swapped it to 20:12, which has the advantage that the gear below sticks out less, and it does not get caught up so much from the bottom. Also, this way the top speed is very good, like something with a buggy motor (or two), but with much better speed control (and steering). Will make a test video soon, just need to practise filming while driving.. :) And the next step will be: building a bodywork; I'm thinking of a small Jeep, like a CJ or a Suzuki Samurai, but ideas are welcome printing some casing for the battery / ESC / receiver to enhance their placement / cable management (in the trunk) -
Hello everyone, this presentation of a MOC will be a little different from usual ones. Genesis I started this project, right after I finished building the Lego 42177 G500. In the meantime, I learned about an RC car named TRX-4, which was on paper what I was always aiming for with my model - locking differentials, two-speed gearbox, 1:10 scale. I wanted to create a car that has no problem going uphill on a 1st gear, and on 2nd offers decent cruising experience (8-10km/h top speed). I powered it like I usually have with a non-standard motor, this time C2830 brushless motor, and familiar to my readers housing, with planetary reduction (~5:1 geardown). In the middle of designing my model, I took inspiration of the @Zerobricks G500 modification regarding locking rear axle - I modified it, as I was trying to use the same motor for locking rear and front (using pneumatic system) axle. To lock front differentials, I needed to aim for solid axle, and not double-wishbone suspension like with regular Lego G500 version. I took mine from SUV Badlands MOC, and tweaked it a little, so it would offer space under the hood for all the electronics, specially designed in 3d lego-suited housing. My car look from the outside like there is nothing that actually powers it, which give my a warm pat on a shoulder. Features As this model was supposed to be a better version of my other - SUV Badlander, features are very similar Sturdy drivetrain with 2-speed gearbox Remotely lockable both front and rear axles 1:10 scale Utility vehicle - it must be able to climb step hills and also provide decent speed on plain terrain Precise low speed control with good amount of torque Detailed body of Land Rover Defender body, like TRX-4 RC car, to solidify authenticity of the model. I also wanted to have openable doors, driver, seats, etc. Using slightly better C2830 1300kv BL motor (with 3d-printed lego-compatible housing - including geardown) and other RC components to power it (AM32 ESC, and 3s battery) Moving center of mass to front and lowering it down, to prevent flipping over during climbs. Working front and rear lights 2.5 kilograms of weight Suspension The rear axle is more or less the same as in Lego G500. I have modified it, so it has the option of locking differential. The front on the other hand is something I am really proud of, multi-link suspension with positive caster and also locking differential option. By designing the front axle that way, I was able to put all electronic, including the battery just above it, on the front, which was very helpful for rock climbing. The downside of front axle is that it cannot use G500 wheels (due to steering rack system), but on the other hand it is very narrow, and using different wheels is actually beneficial here, as I have achieved the same stud wide axles both on front and rear. Locking mechanism system As you can see from the image above of the rear axle, I have also included some details of the locking differential mechanism. Green geek-servo offers continuous rotation in both directions. To lock the rear differential, there is a series of gears that help navigate to correct location of the shaft locking mechanism. Then, using a combination of 8t and 24t clutch gears, I can flip on and off switch directly above the driving ring. It was kinda tricky to design this, but in the end it works harmlessly. To avoid piling up the amount of geek-servos used in the model, I wanted to have the same green geek-servo to be used for locking front, this time using pneumatic. I did some research and someone years back designed this tricky solution using pneumatic valve (although old one)with worm gear and 8t gear. After fair amount of tests i did it, and I was very happy how it turned out. Though, the front sometimes need more time to get locked. Gearbox and driveline The gearbox was something I was testing for a while. I don't know who actually come up with the initial idea, but the design of it is not 100% mine. 1st gear offers not only more torque, but thanks to the combination of gears, it also locks the central differential, this makes the car actually control remotely locking three differentials. 2nd gear offers more rpm in the system, and opens the central differential to narrow down the stress in the driveline. As you will see in the second image, this amount of motors, multiple systems is kind of enormous, but every system on its own worked as it should. Bodywork I was aiming straight from the start for the old Land Rover Defender 100/110 look. The same one I believe was used in TRX-4 RC version. Bold, big, massive, you could feel power from it. There is nothing much to say here, I was just trying to also have possibility to install lights, which are just converted version of RC lights to Lego Technic system, and keep the look as close as it was possible for me to the original version. Few notes before ending words The model is using non-standard electronics and some custom parts. I know that everyone is not happy with that, but the origin behind each individual mechanism is pure Lego Technic stuff we all love and share. I have also lubricated like I mentioned above all needed parts, and used some custom ones, like small M4x4 snail screws, to hold pin towball 6628 parts. Of what I am not happy about is I cut two 6L axles to 5.2L, I tried using 5.5, but they were too long. I used them for front axle driveshafts to each wheel. On paper, it was not needed, but due to the design it was much better to have it this way (the 5L were constantly disconnected, to outer push). It's a pity, but like I said, I want to be crystal clear how I have made this model. If you want to know more, just ask here, I am willing to share are the tricks and tips I did here. The rest of the story The past 2 months were mostly calm, waiting for firmware upgrade of my AM32 ESC, but this wasn't delivered, and I ended with the old one. The new one would actually don't matter in the end, because at the very end I started to realize I hit a wall. Driveline wasn't working as it should be. I made sure that I reinforce frame, gearbox, everything, but 2.5kg of mass made me realize that plastic elements of driveline are too vulnerable for this model. I do not drive my models like a maniac, I even start with 50% of brushless power. The motor was suited, so it will deliver approximately 3.000 rpm at full throttle, but I was using it at 50%, so 1.500 initial rpm. I started to break things. First few rounds were my issues, which were later solved, but after so many disassembles back and forth of the model, which were taking a lot of time, I began to give up. I lubricate all moving parts, and learned that some shouldn't be lubricated (like driving ring part, where teeth meet teeth of a selected gear). Yesterday, I broke a reinforced CV joint, and Differential clips - I have never broke those before. This situation made me choose to share my journey now with you guys. This all hits me very badly, because I was working on that model for so long, and yet I need to abandon it. All those functionalities, which you don't usually see in every MOC, are tossed away, because of simple weight. This leaves me with an open question to you guys. Have you got into a situation like this, how do you handle this, and what would be your advice to me? Should I forget about some of those functions? Try to minimize exterior look, thus reducing weight, maybe change wheels to smaller diameter? I was even considering trying to build metal driveline, but not all parts comes in metal. Now that I finish the writing, I remember I have tested a modification of G500, which had the same gearbox, driveline (except front axle was original), it only got rear-locking system, and... smaller wheels, less weight(2kg). It got me thinking that maybe aiming for 85-90mm tires in 1:10 scale off-road models is the key (although I don't know if you can tell it 1:10 after switching wheels), combining it with smaller weight 1.5-2kg, maybe it could work. On top of that, I just weighted wheels from this model and original wheels from G500 82vs52 grams less in G500. Here is actually old footage of it performing a decent climb. I have also tested it on a field, no issues. Thanks for reading, if you have any questions or would like to have any other pictures taken I can do this (I have not yet disassembled the model) and have a wonderful day, take care. -
Hi, I would like to present you my first MOC prepared especially for official LugPOL Truck Trial Championship. MOC is based on very famous, polish truck with good off-road capabilities - Star 266. I choose polish truck to introduce some local technology to the competition dominated by soviet machines. Instructions are free of charge, so if you have parts and some time, you can enjoy off-roading with this model pretty easy. LINK Here are my priorities when designing this truck: to fulfill LugPOL Truck Trial Championship rules and to provide truck which will be accepted by judges to prepare truck with good off-road capabilities to build it to make it recognizable Couple of LTTC rules: scale: 1:12 to 1:14 number and type of axles true to the real machine type of suspension true to the real machine must be RC and all-wheel drive the truck's cabin true to real machine, with roof, seats, steering wheel, floor and with openable doors All above rules were fulfilled, below there are couple of more details: scale: 1:12 drive: 2x PF XLs coupled, if necessary, each wheel can harness power of two XL motors steering: PF L motor weight: ~1990g dimensions: W x L x H: 25 x 64,5 x 32,5 studs (width without wheels and tires) Star is powered by Buwizz 2.0, but since it uses only PF motors in very simple configuration, it can be powered by anything you have Truck was designed to work with 96mm Tamiya CC01 tires, and those tires you will see on the video. But in the instruction I used the closest in case of size official Lego tires. You can of course put bigger tires, like Lego tractor tires: 107mm, but some rubbing during extreme off-roading is possible. Couple words on the truck itself: Star 266 took part in two competitions in 2023, so it is well tested, any minor issues were eliminated and I'm convinced, that it can be used in hard terrain without any worries. It is rather simple construction, to reduce the weight. Details are there mostly to be able to fulfill competitions requirements. The truck is the mix of many ideas I had during designing and I wanted to test during proper, official competitions. Some of them proved to be hard terrain effective, some of them, not. So this is for sure not the ideal trial truck. But it is not afraid of outdoor obstacles, mud, dirt, stones etc. Pros of Star 266: high ground clearance (7 studs with 96mm tires) high approach, break over and departure angles highly response suspension with long travel to fast and precise surface adaptation each axle is connected directly to coupled 2 PF XL motors, which allows to stable, equal speed of all wheels and provides (when needed) all available power for the wheel which needs it the most steering is done with PF L motor for speed and strength, possible steering angles are > 45 degrees per site Cons of Star 266: turntables used in each wheel introduce friction, quite a lot of it, I highly recommend to try to reduced it as much as possible (I advise to use a bit of sanding or lubrication, or both) due to lack of any shock absorption, stability is only on decent level truck's cabin shape and location is not the best in case easy passing the gates during competition, but this is my personal opinion Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain and steering with motor on front axle More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/keymaker/trial-truck-star-266 -
Hello again, Back in March 2023 I started my YouTube channel with my Raid Buggy. Granted, it look somewhat crude and it was quite slow, but it was my first model with BuWizz motors and bricks so it has a special place my heart. Recently it was the 1 year anniversary of it, and I decided to make a remake of it to prove some how much my LEGO building skills have changed and to honor the original model and channel. So enough with the backstory, let's get to the details: Features 4 Wheel drive with a 2-speed gearbox steering with double steering racks Soft double-wishbone suspension Working gear stick Bodywork built to resemble the original model One of the things that I wanted to show with this model was that you don't necessarily need 4+ BuWizz motors in order to make a good fast off-roader. For this, I decided to make use of a 2-speed gearbox, which has a low gear with the same gearing as the Raid Buggy V1 and the high gear which is some 67% faster (6.2 km/h). The gearbox design was heavily based off @Zerobricks's excellent Simple Off Roader but modified to fit my needs. Another benefit of this is that it has a neutral gear, which is very useful for downhills. From then, I finished it off with the axles of my Monstermog and the chassis was done! from there, I had to build the bodywork, the part that I had been dreading the most For me the body was a very important part, as I wanted to make it reminiscent of the original yet it would have a more sporty look and a stronger construction. Just like the first model, it uses many connectors in @Attika's characteristic style. In the end, the bodywork suffered many changes but I consider them for the better, as it now has a more imposing look and a much more sturdy connection so it can be rolled over without having to fear of breaking it. And now a few more images: The model ended-up being a very good off-roader, with a somewhat high speed (6.2 km/h) yet with some torque left for harder off-road. I pretty much had no issues with it, except the front open differential which sometimes got in the way when off-roading in the low gear. It's otherwise a model more focused on high-speed on uneven terrain so I'm happy with it If you would like to build this model, you can download the .io file at rebrickable here. And as always, here's a YouTube video containing some off-road footage, functions showcase, and some nice Punk Rock music Feel free to post a comment about what are your thoughts about it, and see you in the next one! -
Hello Eurobricks community! Let me introduce my latest MOC - Hummer H1 out of Lego pieces. It has approx 3800 parts, incl 7 Motors. Functions are: - Independent suspension of all wheels - 3 RC differentials like in the real model - 8 Cylinder engine - module build - easy removable hood and body. - 4 L motors for drive- Servo for steering- M motor for the winch- L Motor for diffs lock VIDEO: All photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/mercedes_770/hummer_instructions To start this model I was inspired of two things: 1) This video 2) Humvee from CADA Most wanted render: Building instructions are available: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-174585/OleJka/hummer-h1/#details
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Many people have been asking me for a simple, easy-to build and most importantly cheap Off-Roader. When I started this project, I've set myself the following guidelines: Use a single BuWizz 3.0 and "only" 2 BuWIzz drive motors Implement a 2 speed gearbox Maximize the ground clearance by using a pendular axle (this way the independent suspension doesn't have to loose ground clearance when going over obstacles) The model has to be built from under 500 parts All the parts have to be standard and in current production Keep the number of different parts as low as possible Use color coding to simplify the building process Design the model so that it can easily be modified by other builders Create proper building instructions And this is what I came up with in the end: I managed to successfully realize the all the planned functionality, features and more: All wheel drive 2 speed gearbox Pendular front axle Independent suspension on all wheels Openable doors for easy acces to the charging port Interior with seats and a steering wheel The dimensions and specs are as following: Built out of ~460 parts 27 x 20 x 13 cm ~ 850 grams Top speed of 7 km/h As usual there's a video showcasing the model in more detail: But just building the model and recording the video was only half the story. I also taught myself how to create the building instructions using the Studio which can be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/simple-off-roader Since these are my first such instructions, they may not be ideal... So in a case of any issues, confustion, or such I also uploaded the .IO and .LXF files which can be found in the corresponding Bricksafe folder: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/simple-off-roader All in all this was a great learning experience, I'm always happy to learn a new skill and being able to create my own instructions sure is a good skill to have as a LEGO builder. To conclude; using this as a base, I wonder what kind of tweaks, improvements and crazy mods other builders will come up with! -
Wasn`t sure if i had to post this on the old thread or to make a new one, but I decided to be safe. Anyway, I recreated Jantayg`s buggy made for the BuWizz 2018 ”Fast car competition”, but, being a recreation not a copy, differs in some manners, such as the way the front frame is attached to the main chassis. This MOC has 1x buggy motor and 1x servo-motor, pneumatic shock absorbers, a good suspension travel and a space more than enough for the battery/ electronics but sticks to around 700g with 1x battery. You can find the digital construction file and the part lists for the other paint-jobs on Rebrickable Thanks to the original creator that accepted this recreation to be made public!
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Hi, I would like to present my newest creation – off-road truck Gaz 66. It is my interpretation of small, old and very popular truck, which has a lot of off-road capability. Someone can ask why next similar small scale off road truck? I would say I like this type of vehicles, the scale and challenges they bring. And with every build I try to test something new, which I wasn't try before. Here the main goal was to go below standard for those wheels width of the model - 15 studs and prepare narrower axles than standard - 11 studs ones. Which I did. Gaz 66 has 13 studs width body with 9 studs (from rim to rim) front axle - stereed and driven. Thanks to that size of the body is more proportional to used wheels. And you can also use tractor tires provided with cargo for even better effect (you can see such modification in real Gaz 66 on one of polish off-road YT channel - LINK). I also tried to add as many details related to real truck as possible, in this scale, I hope there are here some fan of original Gaz 66 and they will recognise some elements I added. Below you can find video and list of features and details. Enjoy. Instructions: LINK General details scale: 1:20 dimensions LxWxH: 30x10,5x12,5cm weight: 946g Features: RC front axle steering (C+ L motor) RC 4x4 drive (C+ L motor) RC winch with place to lock the hook (C+ L motor) 4-link live axle suspension for all 4 wheels three studs ground clearance (with "KrAZ" tires) openable doors and easy access to spare tire working V8 engine with fan located in cabin, plus grill via which working engine can be watched detailed two seats cabin powered by Buwizz 3.0 but also prepared to be powered by standard C+ Hub can operate with "KrAZ" tires included in cargo Photos: LINK My Gaz 66 is powered by Buwizz 3.0, but there is no problem to use standard C+ Lego battery box: Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain connected with V8 engine, steering and the winch:
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Among those 3 buggy`s/ truggy`s that I have to test-build them I just managed to add a 4th one. This one is the first 4x4 with 2 motors. As usual, it packs some buggy motors (2 of them, as I said), a servo, removable body (at least semi-detachable), positive caster-angle and full independent suspension. The weight is just under 900g; pretty decent, considering it is 4x4 and that has a pretty big body and some useless pieces to imitate the electric motor of the real RC buggy. Unfortunately, I think that this will only be available with normal RC batteries, because almost no existing hub for Lego is not fitting.
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Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.
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Hi, I present my newest creation – off-road truck KrAZ 255 version 2.0. This is successor of my first public MOC – KrAZ 255 to which free instruction are available here. The goal in version 2.0 was to improve basically every aspect of predecessor and to pay respect to this awesome off-road truck. And as usual, most of the features are based on truck Tayga 6455B available in game Snowrunner. This truck is also the next part of my Snowrunner series started with Chevrolet CK1500. On the video below you can check what details and functions I was able to put into this MOC and how KrAZ 255 v2.0 deals with off-road terrain and against obstacles. Extensive list of features, details and interesting facts about this creation you can find below the video. Enjoy! Instructions: LINK General details: scale: 1:23 dimensions LxWxH: 42,5x13x16,5cm weight: 1525g Features: 1. RC front axle steering (C+ L motor) positive caster (click) Ackermann geometry almost perfect pivot point (click) PF servo friendly - 180 degrees of movement for steering input 2. RC 6x6 drive (2 x C+ L motor) independent drive input for each front wheel (click) (for this idea I would like to thank @Fluwoeb and this topic, this is because of you! ) rear wheels driven by two independent inputs (one for 2 left wheels and one for 2 right wheels) (click) front wheels driven by one differential and rear wheels driven by second differential (click) both differentials coupled together to harness power of two C+ L motors both differentials coupled with lock mechanisms (click), controlled separately and manually from the cabin (click) and equipped with visual color indicator of diff lock on/off status located behind the cabin (click) power train equipped with new big CV joints - cardans and old CV joints limited in drive of the front axle and completely removed from drive of rear axles 3. RC winch with place to lock the hook (C+ L motor) 4. RC front and rear lights (Lego LEDs) 5. suspension for all 6 wheels (click) front wheels on live axle suspension with shock absorbers (click) and a big range of movement (click) rear wheels located on independently oscillating arms with rubber suppressors controlling the movement (click) rear suspension without shock absorbers - no side leaning and no bending under the load (click) 6. three studs ground clearance (click) 7. bottom of the truck armored with panels to secure crucial mechanisms and improve dealing with obstacles (click, click) 8. two hooks for connecting trailers, front and rear one, both equipped with lock/unlock mechanisms 9. openable doors, hood, tool box, first aid kit, sideboard bed with separately openable sides, each one with two locks 10. working V8 engine with fan which can be easily removed “for maintenance, repairment or for swap” located in detailed engine bay with a grill via which working engine can be watched (click) 11. detailed two seats cabin with openable and usable glove box (click) 12. working steering wheel 13. modular construction (axles, cabin, additions can be easily disconnected) 14. powered by Buwizz 3.0 but also prepared to be powered by standard C+ Hub (click) 15. prepared to be built also with PF motors and PF servo without significant changes and to be powered by Buwizz 2.0 (click) or even standard PF Battery box with IR receivers (click) 16. "disk brakes" in front (click) and rear wheels and many others small details (click, click, click) 17. equipped with many additions from the game Snowrunner, like bull guard, exterior roll cage, roof rack with fuel canisters and spare tire, double snorkel, sun protector (click) Interesting facts, designing decisions and details: driveshafts for front axle are connected in a way that the longer, more “smooth” CV joint part are connected closer to front axle, so lower to the ground, which corresponds with the idea to prepare bottom of the frame smooth and resistance to sticking out objects which can immobilize the truck (click) most of the motors are placed symmetrically at the center of the truck, which is good for weight distribution, but Buwizz unit is localized off centered, closer to the left side of vehicle. To balance that, motor from winch is placed also off centered, but closer to the right side of truck (click) all wheels can harness power from both C+ L motors, as they are coupled, but rear axles, which in general generate more load for motor, are connected closer to the right motor, that is why V8 engine is connected closer to the left motor, which is connected closer to front axle, as the front axle generates less load than rear ones (click) additionally output for V8 engine has the same speed as motor output - which is higher than rest of the drivetrain - for better visual and sound effect (click) there is a „biscuit connector” placed in rear wall of the cabin to increase ways of location and connection and types of power source which can be used to power up the truck (click) to avoid widening the whole truck, only hinges for sides of sideboard bed are located outside of the sideboard bed to allow opening sides to vertical position, which makes loading the cargo easier (click) positive caster present in front axle has (apart from being next feature adapted from real cars, apart from dealing with not very high tolerance of Lego parts, which causes negative caster and apart from being the force which steers front wheels strait when driving forward) a function of forcing front wheels to stay on axles when driving forward (I think this is the answer you were looking for @AutoBacon in this post ) and many more details you will discover, if you decide to build my truck I would also like to thank @nico71 for his great video series related to Western Star 6900 Twinsteer. It helped me to prepare more realistic grill, hood, roof elements and I believe overall better body of the KrAZ than in my first version of this truck. Thank you! Attention! Two C+ L motors with decreased speed 3 times, so with torque increased 3 times, generate a lot of force which needs to be handled by rather advanced drivetrain. That is why there is a risk for 12T gears to skip or even be destroyed if wheels come across too much resistance due to very rough terrain. Please keep this in mind and happy off-roading! Photos: (click) Here you can see the original KrAZ-255 (1211 parts, 991 grams), the new KrAZ-255 v2.0 in standard configuration (1632 parts, 1220 grams) and the fully equipped and ready for everything version of KrAZ-255 v2.0 (2091 parts, 1525 grams): Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain with differentials and diff locks connected with V8 engine, steering with working steering wheel and the winch I hope you like it, if you have some comments or question, please ask. I will happy to answer.
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Here's a model I actually completed a year ago in order to be unveiled in time for the BuWizz picnic back in 2021, but we all know how things went... Anyway since the picnic did happen last weekend, I decided to unveil my most powerful offroader. The basic design is based on the Wildcat 4x4, but this version adds more power, a 2 speed gearbox and a third axle to the formula. As with the older version, each axle has independent suspension, plus the entire axle can pivot or swing, effectively giving this model double suspension setup. Indepedent suspension is great at absorbing small bumps when driving quickly, while the axles pivot along the terrain when crawling. The driveline was quite a challenge. In order to transmit the power from 12 motors to the wheels, each wheel ended up having it's own dedicated 2 speed-gearbox. The final driveline is extremely compact and efficient, with only 3 gears engaged at any given time. There are also no differentials or perpendicular drives, so nothing that can break or skip. Each gearbox is actuated by a PU M motor using worm gears, which prevent any unwanted skipping out of the gear. This way each wheel is powered by 2 BuWizz motors via a dedicated gearbox: The following gif shows how the front axle is designed along with the whole model: Here you can wee, how the front axle tilts in order to adjust to the terrain: The rear axles are made in the same way as the front axles, minus the steering. Rear axles are also designed to work in tandem, when one goes up, the other goes down. When one tilts left, the other tilts right. This way the rear suspension is extremely flexible: And finally here are some specs of this beast: Length: 52 cm Width: 26 cm Height: 20 cm Weight: 2,5 kg Top speed: 15 km/h (rounded up) To complete the presentation, here's a video of the model in action, a big thanks out to @braker23, @Sariel and @kbalage for the footage. Final thoughts... this is my most potent offroader to date. The sheer amount of power, torque and speed is hard to wrap your mind around for a model made entirely of small plastic pieces. Having said that, I think there are still few areas to improve: Tendency of the front wheels to fall off at hard bumps - A lighter version would help to reduce stress on the hubs and wheels. Could use a higher steering angle - Would have to find a way to integrate steering racks inside the transaxles. Protection againt depbees and dirt entering the drivelines - Something that would also not reduce the ground clearance, tiles might work.
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Hello everyone, This is Evan here with my first Eurobricks topic! I decided as soon as I obtained the 42122 Technic Jeep Rubicon set to massively upgrade it (similar to what y'all did here, here, and here). The only difference is that I am starting from scratch and rebuilding the whole vehicle based on the original set to not only be more functionally proficient (which is the focus of this venture), but also to look a little bit more aesthetically appealing;) As per my preference, I will start with the functionality. Since everyone else put the differentials in the axles, I decided at first to take a different route and take them out of the axles and instead put them in the cabin. See the following pictures of the front axle: Maybe this idea will work for you in a different project, but I quickly found out that it would not work for my MOC after making a few test chassis assemblies. By displacing the differentials from the axles to the center of the vehicle greatly increases the area that the drivetrain takes up in the cabin of the Jeep, so I decided to go with the differentials in the axles. As you can already see, I went with the CV joints for the steering drive connections just like Zerobricks did. However, I decided to go with the mustang wheels to center the steering pivot more. Also, I added Ackerman geometry to the steering system out of necessity. See the following pictures: I used this piece to connect the steering gear to the axle frame with the gear that drives the differential. It works quite well. Also, the steering rack is held in place by the actual "U" technic frame. Please let me know what you think of it so far, I will continue to update it until I finish it! -
[MOC] MAZ 5316 RC
Danifill posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello! This creation took quite long to make, but here it is - MAZ 5316 scalemodel. It has several functions and features: - Driving by buggy motor, 4WD (gear ratio is about 63/5) - Steering by servo motor - Remotely controlled differential lock using pneumatics. For the pump I took inspiration from the Sariel's one. (Single L motor) - Working headlights and taillights - Tilting cab with a fake decorative engine underneath it - Openable doors with rubber band locks - Easy access to the power unit (BuWizz 2.0) - Working suspension on all axles (Live axle suspension) - Custom stickers and other details Overall, the model turned out to be a pretty good off-roader, though it weighs over 2kg. Snow made it harder for the electronics, but the performance was still nice. Also, I'd change the tires in case of driving it on snow. :D Dimensions are very similar to 42129, but the scale is bigger. The main problem of this model is that the pneumatics work inconsistently because of the length of the tubes. Also, steering angle is a bit too wide. 3D model is in process right now, so there is a very slight chance of me starting to make the instructions for it. Video link: Photos: Thank you! -
Hi, Here is my take on rock crawlers – I present to you an unstoppable and fully customizable rock crawler: „Hornet”! I called it unstoppable and fully customizable not without a reason. You can find out why in the video and in extensive list of features, details and links below the video. Instructions can be found HERE, they are free of charge, I hope many of you will be able to build it and have fun playing with it outdoors as I did. Without further talk, please enjoy the video! Details and main functions: • dimensions LxWxH: 36x22.5x19.5 cm • weight: 1.55 kg • 4x4 drive (3xL motors) • steering (M motor) • live axle suspension, front and rear • openable doors • easy removing the whole body with locks hidden in bumpers • it fits Lego Technic Figure Configuration options: 1. Drive and steering • Power version: 3xL PF motors for drive and M PF motor for steering front axle • Agile version: 2xL PF motors for drive and 2xM PF motors for steering on both axles 2. Body • „Hornet” – default body, more build-up, with opening doors • „Red Ant” – alternative body, more open one, 25% lighter than „Hornet” body 3. Suspension • Four independent, clearly visible mounting points available for each shock absorber • Multiple mounting points allow to configure four parameters of the suspension and the whole MOC: - suspension stiffness (from soft to hard) - suspension travel (from long to short) - body height (from low to high) - body style (from rock crawler to monster truck) • suspension can use both long and short shock absorbers Other features (which you may or may not spot on the video): • both bodies are equipped with two seat simple interior with steering wheel and some minor details • both available bodies are prepared in a way to avoid visibility of blue pins • frame is also prepared in a way to avoid blue pins • blue pins in frame are used mostly to high light mounting points for suspension and point out the front of the frame • frame prepared to be allow easy pairing with any new bodies • frame is equipped with simple cable management to avoid damaging motor cables during off-roading • changing connections of shock absorbers to the frame is fast and easy • MOC can be easy carry on both via body or accessable handle at the bottom of the frame • center of the mass is located at the center of the MOC • center of the mass is located low, most of the weight is present in axles • drive doesn't use differentials to maximize off-road capabilities • both axles are secured with panels to protect axles and drivetrain against any dangerous objects (grass, rocks, etc) • high ground clearance for both axles even with using planetary hubs • L motors are connected to planetary hubs without any reduction – this provides both speed and necessary torque • approach angle is 90 degrees, front and rear More photos you can find HERE
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RC Rock crawler. Features AWD drive without differentials using 69730 "Large angular position motor"(As it has realy good torque), Steered by L-motor, and springless suspension (concept by superkoala). Lack of differentials gives nice off-road perfomance, but the crawler has big steering radius due to that.42114 C-model. You can buy instructions here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-81106/mic8per/42114-rock-crawler/#details Video: -
Hi, I'd like to share my second C model for 42099, inspired by the recently released off-road buggy. The design goals were 1) faster speed 2) responsive and long suspension travel 3) lightweight and curved shape.The wheel hubs and the differentials perform down-gearing, so I decided to apply 3x up-gearing by a ratio of 5:3 and skip the differential to make it faster than the original. Since the differentials are not used, the small gears can be used for up-gearing with perpendicular meshing of gears, which is smoother than the parallel meshing of the 20 and 12-tooth gears. I decided to use rear wheel drive only, one motor driving each rear wheel. I managed to compact the drive-train with the following setup: For suspension, I wanted a long travel and a wider wheel base, so I tried to increase the length of the swing-arms. The rear suspension seemed simple with 7L beams, but the front suspension was more difficult, as I had to increase the length of the 6L steering arms in the set by 1 stud, so I had to apply some tricky workarounds. Furthermore, I wanted a lightweight axle with a positive caster angle, with the steering motor integrated closely to the axle. The result has more than 6 studs of ground clearance and 3 studs of travel and is quite responsive: The battery is integrated into the middle of the model to distribute the weight between the two axles, and to provide easy access from the bottom. The whole base looks like this: The bodywork proved to be the most difficult to get right, since the panels available in the model are hard to use to get the light-weight frame-like body that I wanted. After taking some inspiration from the shape of Madoca's Blue Lightning buggy, I got the hang of using the arched pieces and the flexible hoses to build the curves, and used some of the panels to finish the body with a simple roof and hood. The roof is attached very strongly to the base, so the car can be lifted by it.As the small grey seats in the original just didn't feel like a match to the overall shape and scale of the model, I gave building a custom seat a try. Luckily, the few available red pieces were just enough to make a black seat with two red stripes :) I think it adds a lot to the overall look of the model.Here are a few more pics: Finally, here's a video of it in action: Building instructions available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
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I’ve always wanted to make a trophy truck, here’s my take on one:) I call it the panther because is black, and the headlights make it look like a cat:) It features long suspension travel just like a real trophy truck. Here is the bare chassis. Chassis and body side by side. Specs: Drive two l motors steering servo motor battery BuWizz 2.0 suspension rear, three link front swing axle independent if you have any questions please ask;) -
Hi everyone, I have finished my Willys Jeep alternate of the Land Rover set, so I'd like to summarize the final model here. Features: - Live axle suspension with imitated leaf springs on both axles. It uses one shock absorber per wheel, also positioned realistically. I also tried to construct the core frame as is in the real life car. - Manual 4-speed gearbox in a classic H-shape. Additionally, there is a Hi / Lo gear switch and an RWD / 4WD switch, just like in the real car, and the positioning of those switches is as realistic as I could get with the limited space. The whole gearbox is in the middle of the chassis. - Working inline 4-piston engine as in reality, I tried to add engine details modelled after the real engine. - Functional steering wheel and also HOG steering in the back (which had to pass through the gearbox). - Foldable windshield and opening hood with stander included. I managed to get the windshield folding joint similar to reality. - The interior is clean and I tried to get the shape of the seats as close to reality as I could, although the square and flat front seats were hard to reproduce with the available parts in that color. - Detachable roof, again, I tried to reproduce the shape of the tubing. - Extras: Jerry-can on the back, and of course the spare wheel. More details about the design process are given on Rebrickable. Here's a video showcasing the functions: And some renders and photos: Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Feedback is welcome! Cheers!
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Hi, I would like to present my newest MOC. It is off-roader with look based on UAZ 3151 and equipped with functions available in off-road game Snowrunner. Main functions and some details are listed below. If anybody is interested with some more technical detailes (and I believe there are people here, which are more focused on technical aspects of the MOC rather than the look), which are hard to show in short video, then I encourage you to scroll down, below photos. If not, then I believe that video and some photos should serve just fine. I also added short video to present couple of tests of Uaz frame and powertrain. Instructions will be available in the future :) Details and main functions: scale 1:10,5 dimensions LxWxH: 38x16.5x18.5 cm weight: 2.44 kg (without additions) 4x4 drive (2xL motors) steering with ackermann geometry (servo motor) adjustable height of suspension for both axles (M motor) lockable differentials on both axles (mechanism without pneumatic, secured with clutch, M motor) live axle suspension, front and rear working inline four piston engine with fan and detailed engine bay lights: front, rear, roof - controlled by manual hidden switch openable hood (with support rod), trunk, four doors locks in all doors and trunk working steering wheel with realistic number of turns and with adjustable position easy removing the whole body easy change to version with or without the roof adjustable front seats - leaning and moving back and forward split rear seats with folding backrest to increase trunk capacity openable glove box easy access to battery pack for replacement Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-75601/keymaker/off-roader-uaz-3151-aka-khan-39-marshall-4x4-rc/#details More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/keymaker/7.-uaz-3151 Drive I designed the drive to be balanced between speed and torque. Main idea was to make drivetrain strong and reliable. I used the strongest differentials, new reinforced CV joints and bevel gears whenever possible. What is more I tried to keep high speed – low torque rule as long as possible when designing the drive train. As the result, the biggest reduction is placed on axles – on differentials. Thanks to that and reinforced construction you will stall 2 L motor rather than hear some gear slipping. Look In case of look, I keep in mind to avoid blue pins whenever possible, keep nice, clean one colour chassis which can be seen underneath and focus on small details, both inside and outside. Also you will not see many holes in the body or ugly cables, despite the fact that there are 5 lego LEDs there. What is more, all lights, along with the switch are integrated into one piece removable body and can be easy removed only by disconnecting single cable. Performance The plan was to make it very capable when off roading. And it is, when you remove the body. The look and those many details and manual features, all related to the body come with obvious price – weight. UAZ weights 2435g in basic configuration, but only the body itself weights 855g. So if resign from features, which are related stricte to the body and replace the body with some light weight one, then you will get very capable machine. But even with the body, thanks to drive train design, off-road capabilies of UAZ are pritty decent, as showed on the video. If you have more questions, do not hesitate to ask. And keep MOCing! :)
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RC Off-roader with Dual Diagonal Drive I think I'm onto something that will get me through the winter. Summary Dual diagonal drive means: 1) having two separate drive trains with equal torque while 2) preserving the advantage of having an open distribution for cornering and 3) passing diagonal tests without using differential locks. Background I have been playing with this idea for a while already, especially after seeing @KevinMoo's dual drive models (Mitsubishi Pajero and Dual-Driveshaft Pickup). @KevinMoo rightfully addressed the vulnerability of LEGO parts in RC models and the fact that using independent drive trains for the left and right sides, loses the benefit of differentials while cornering. This got me thinking. Using independent drive trains for left and right in a 4WD model does indeed drop the benefit of differentials while cornering, but what if we would pair the wheels diagonally, so pair the left front (LF) wheel with the right rear (RR) wheel, and pair the right front (RF) wheel with the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'dual diagonal drive' (I borrowed the term from the electric skateboard scene) would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is very close to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution by means of a differential between the two drive trains is much less of a problem as with separate drive trains for the left and right side wheels. On a very uneven surface, where one or two wheels may lose contact with the ground, the wheels that do have contact are typically lined up diagonally, see image. With dual diagonal drive, the vehicle would still have traction, even without locking any differentials. Only on slippery surfaces, there are chances of spinning wheels. So this is what I'm thinking of. We start with the basic dual diagonal drive setup: Two separate drive trains, one for the LF and RR wheels and one for the RF and LR wheels. The drive trains cross using two 24t gears and an auxiliary 16t gear that sits right underneath the auxiliary axle for the other drive train. So no clutch gears are involved in this crossing. I inserted a 1L Technic liftarm inside each differential - idea from @Madoca 1977's Toyota Land Cruiser 80 - to prevent the bevel gears from popping out. Next we add a manual locking feature, which closes the differentials with a single lever. This locking feature will force each pair of wheels involved in one of the drive trains to have equal speed. Now we connect each XL-motor to one of the differentials, using a small 4-speed gearbox. That means; two separate 4-speed gearboxes. This may be a bit ambitious, we'll have to see in real-life whether this is feasible or not. I might fall back to two 2-speed gearboxes. I did pay attention to the amount of torque in the transmission though. I geared up the XL-motor outputs and geared down the transmission output. That makes the transmission spin faster with less torque. The gearboxes are operated synchronously using a 90-degree stepper, which is controlled by a Servo-motor. Each gear shift axle has its own 90-degree limiter. And finally the outputs of the XL-motors are transferred to a fake V8-engine via a normal differential. The sole purpose of this differential is to combine the XL-motor outputs for the fake engine. For the steering I'm thinking of using a servo motor. I don't really like the directness of steering with a servo-motor, but the steering link attachment points are moved one stud backwards, which confines the steering angle. This adds to better handling and protects the CV-joints in the wheel hubs. I don't know where this is going to end. I'm not even sure about the exact kind of car I will be targeting, but it sure needs to be some kind of all-rounder. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
