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Stereo

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Stereo

  1. Stereo
    Trans-red brakelights?
  2. Stereo
    Unfortunately I didn't take pictures when I opened one to repair it, but the BrickTracks switch stand is fairly easy to open, you just have to release the 6 clips on the underside by pushing on the sloped side of them. So you could probably reduce friction quite a bit on the protective switch by opening it up and shaving down the detent that makes it snap into place. I believe it's on the light gray piece that rotates.
  3. Stereo
    It's got 2 shift rings that are moved by two toggles on the same axle so they move together, one connects top+bottom on the red side (8-24 ratio). The other uses a free-floating 24t to connect the two bottom axles directly in an 8:20 ratio. As the 24:20 meshes in a 2 across, 2 up axle offset. It looks like only one has the special 3L axle connector that 'latches' the shift position, the other one slides freely but since the toggles are connected, it'll always be the same. (this photo is the bottom of the car, vs. the above picture being the gearbox from above) I believe the red side's bottom axle connects to the differential and the yellow side's bottom axle connects to the engine. But it could be the other way around. So the 8:24:20 connection directly couples them and skips the rest of the gearbox as an 8:20 ratio (reverse since it has the idler gear), while the 8:24 top+bottom connects differential to red side, then the two selected gears on the top axles connect through to the yellow side bottom axle. The white clutch being on the red drum side also makes sense to be closest to the differential to me, if the gearbox is stuck anywhere, the car will still be able to roll.
  4. Stereo
    I'm sure it's the other way around, steel car frames with no body are an everyday thing for some companies, any important measurements are just copying the Koenigsegg engineering (suspension positions), and getting it to support a very heavy body. Building a several 100,000 piece LEGO body is the part that takes a lot of time and planning.
  5. Stereo
    Looking at them, I think the red drum has 3 engagements 120° apart, and the yellow one has a single 120° section that engages. Which should also mean the axles are 120° different positions on the yellow one (30°, modulo 90) and 40° different on the red one, so that the 3 drums on each side engage at different times. So your gear pattern is Y1R1, Y1R2, Y1R3, Y2R1, etc. Y1 XXX______ Y2 ___XXX___ Y3 ______XXX R1 X__X__X__ R2 _X__X__X_ R3 __X__X__X Guessing the build will lock out the shifting temporarily so you can assemble everything in the correct orientation, since it takes a while to go the full length of the chassis, then unbuild that and put the regular detent in.
  6. Stereo
    Looking at the prototypes I think they originally had something more complicated with 3 types of shift drum in order to use existing gear ratios. Also the two sides' drums are engaged 1:1 using knob gears, and the shift indicator print is evenly spaced on that same axle so it's some pattern of 9 positions directly encoded by the drums (one every 40 degrees). By adding a ratio between 16:16 and 20:12 they can run a simpler pattern, I think the drums still need a weird axle offset, which now that I'm looking for it, the yellow axle connectors on the yellow drum side do look to be different after passing through 2 yellow drums.
  7. Stereo
    My read of the gearbox is that it has 3 yellow shift drums on the left of the car, which each have 2 positions, neutral and engaged. So you have 123 on one drum, then the next engages 456, then 789. The two easily visible ones in photos/video have 8:24 and 16:16 ratios, so maybe the other one is 12:20 or 24:8. At the front under the driver's seat is the reverse/forward selector, one's geared 8:20 (uses a 24t gear as an intermediate to reverse direction) and the other 8:24. I would guess the 8:24 is the reverse if I'm seeing correctly which gears link to the differential. Less visible from photos are 3 red drums on the right side of the car, I think these do the 1-2-3 selections, the visible ones have 18:14 and 16:16, and probably the third is 20:12 (visible 20t gear but I can't confirm it's on the right axle). What would make sense to me is the red drums are going round multiple times, so 1 and 4 are 360 degrees apart, I don't know if that means they have weird 120 offsets on their axles. And then the yellow ones have 1/4 of the drum offset, so they can turn 30 degrees each shift (30, 60, 90 = 1-2-3, 120 150 180 = 4-5-6, 210 240 270 = 7-8-9). I don't see any shift forks that engage in both directions, they're all one-sided, which simplifies the actual gearing but means more drums.
  8. Stereo
    They're not red and LBG, and the white one doesn't have the same indents as the grey 16z. It does seem to have small holes so it's not a 12z.
  9. Stereo
    It's a new pair of gears, reddish orange 18 with clutch, white 14 with axle, or something like that. Unless they recoloured the 12T blue spur gear to white for some reason. Also, red shift drums on the right of the car, yellow on the left.
  10. Stereo
    Giving it a bit more thought and an actual "64t" gear to test on, the one I come up with is 1.5, 4.77, 5, though with the way I built a 1.5 edge does mean the middle axle is part of the planet carrier and it needs a 12T clutch gear for the sun. I only have 12t straight gears so I can't test how smooth this spins. The planets don't really have anywhere to go though, their rotation's synchronized, so maybe just building a 9.5L beam between them that skips over the centre would be good enough. Or you could use 10288 triple connector with 3L axles, and 32013 #1, and a 1.8 stud spacer (1L beam + 2 rings, should tighten down to slightly less than 1.8). 3 planets do barely work with this setup... I'm not sure they work in reality because 140 isn't divisible by 3 so the phase might not match closely enough.
  11. Stereo
    They don't show the set limits anymore, so it's not really fair to say "the cap shouldn't change". if it's available you can buy it, that's all they intend to let you know. It's not like it gets cheaper at the end of the availability window. I suppose for people who intend to be resellers, it's good data on which set's got more demand than availability, but if you actually want the sets, you have lots of time.
  12. Stereo
    If you're building it planetary anyway, you can make the planet carrier smaller with triangles. Eg. this 3-6-6 liftarm triangle has 4.9 studs width instead of 5 (0.8mm less), and then if you want to continue using 16N+8 gears (8, 24, 40, 64) you can just use beams to make another triangle of whole numbers (marked 4.9-5-5) that would work (I'm using 40t gears as a demo cause studio has them) I think 140 is in the 8N+4 set so it might just directly go 20-64-140 or something as well.
  13. Stereo
    The Friends 42703 coaster is underwater themed so probably a bit too much overlap. Though I guess Atlantis colour scheme (red/black) is not much like the purple/tan.
  14. Stereo
    The new Mewtwo set has LBG wheel arch extensions, I expect it's 71689 but it might be the smaller ones.
  15. Stereo
    I imagine the axle hole has a stop, but can you put a bar through into the beam?
  16. Stereo
    On the real one the tires are a bit short of half the height, so probably something about 7 studs tall and 2 wide would be ideal. I think that's like the Monster Jam tires but narrower.
  17. Stereo
    I mean, it's also easy to calculate that a 1:8 semi truck would be ~8 feet long, 40 studs wide, and probably into the $3000 range
  18. Stereo
    I think that wheel has a larger diameter? Probably the same functionality though. So combination stud & city bar axle hole, then pinhole with 6 spokes that can be an antistud. I tried to scale the pictures the same, which puts it at ~11.5mm to the one on the London Bus being 14mm diameter.
  19. Stereo
    https://rebrickable.com/parts/5809/tyre-14-x-11-slick/ Looks like these tires, with a new technic pinhole wheel? Wider than https://rebrickable.com/parts/42610/wheel-11-x-8-with-center-groove/
  20. Stereo
    Really depends how much friction it has, and how far it has to turn to ratchet to the next step, but a one-way clutch is the central component of a clock so it might allow more compact pendulum clock designs. As long as the spokes are a whole number length it'd probably be fine to rebuild it with thick beams if you want more strength, and use fullsize pins at the hub. They're using the new spoke piece and thin pulley to match aesthetics.
  21. Stereo
    The box logo's in the top left, so diagonally that way works better a lot of the time, though that's another way of saying the same thing, why do we write left to right?
  22. Stereo
    I'm pretty sure it's half pins, with the spoke and wheel parts both being half-thickness pinholes. They mount alternating sides. I can't tell if the wheel piece is symmetrical or if it's also offset to one side so that the two together create a 1 stud thick "beam" shape centered on the wheel.
  23. Stereo
    ~30 stud wheel/tire is enormous, might have some interesting GBC applications depending what it looks like under the tire. I like how it uses 12 spokes so it can just go onto a pair of the classic pulleys turned so their holes are 30° different.
  24. Stereo
    The latest ones I have that it does catch on something are the Koenigsegg and Lamborghini. The Bronco and Jeeps of course nothing is that low (it only sticks up 2 studs) That new Mustang's 17 wide so it might just not fit... lower deck's also exactly 17 wide.
  25. Stereo
    When I add new categories I sort it as I look for pieces for something. Like recently I split up my 1x2 modified tiles into subtypes, because I was looking for white 1x2 curved slope with left+right corner wedges. So now I have 1x2 tile with textured top (grilles, slope grilles, ingots) and 1x2 with curved top. Probably get through 60% of the sorting before even finding the pieces I wanted. In general I keep my pieces in a few places, plates+tiles in one stack of drawers, modified bricks+other in another, Technic in a third, basic bricks in a fourth. So when I'm dealing with unsorted Lego due to buying new stuff or taking a build apart, I split it into those categories and then deal with each over time. The basic bricks don't come up a lot in most builds, so I sometimes go through multiple builds before putting them away, and store them in less accessible bins. If I do need a bunch of them I can grab the whole bin and put it in front of the stacks of drawers.
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