gyenesvi

Ah, okay, I did watch it and understood the bricks in the context, my confusion was the part 66909, I thought that continues with a bar, not a stud. So yeah, in that case, a brick with an axle hole does not work, but a brick with a pinhole would, no? The simplest fix. Another thing I could think of, is that maybe, originally, the other headlight piece behind it was at the same level, then it would work, and maybe that one was raised later for some reason, and screwed this up.

I know what it does in general, but it's not used for that in this build. Instead it seems to hold a bar, but it wasn't explained in neither of the videos above, at least I could not find. Exactly this. What the heck, Lego? Someone really does not know the part list there.. Maybe a 5.5 axle could have been used in the steering system as well. Or the new (4.5?) axle that's coming out this year? Probably could have been solved..

I wonder what's the role of that headlight piece and what else could have been used. I it to hold a bar? Could it have been a 1x1 brick with an axle hole instead?

Great that you came back to this :) Yes, that's it exactly, replace the pin with a 3L axle, and the green gear with a blue 20T gear for a steering wheel that works backwards too. I never tested that though, don't know how much force is needed to steer that way, whether the linkage transfers the power properly. Let me know how it goes!

I think this is pretty cool, has nice performance and seems playable. It shows that Lego should really make more compact electronics, that would be applicable to medium sized models, which could lead to cheaper and more playable RC sets.. Current ones are too bulky, and as a result mostly large and heavy, and as a consequence slow and less playable models can be built.

I guess it's going to be using the all-in-one C+ hub..

Actually, I have long been wishing for more brown parts, I think they could look good on vintage classics, like pickups, trucks, off-roaders..

I fear bright green, since the Porsche is also bright green..

Yeah, recolors are always good for parts. Recolored cars should not be counted as one more set, in the sense it's just a bonus item. It's not taking the spot from anything else.

Thanks, sounds interesting. I see that most components are just standard RC electronics without any lego compatible housing, the main thing is the in-wheel motors and custom rims, but that can result in good play experience and easy installation.

What is this Add Power? I could not find any info about them online. 3rd party electronics company? Do you have more info?

That runs pretty smooth even on the dense grass! And indeed, the cost sounds good too! What are those motors exactly? They seem pretty flat! And how did you fix the U-joint to the output shaft? With a thin plate inserted?

You need to learn to read these properly and take then with a grain of salt. It was clearly some AI generated piece of text copy-pasted from somewhere (maybe based on people's wishes expressed somewhere). Also, motorizing a 1:8 supercar with lego electronics would be clearly a pointless thing, even 1:10 cars can only move quite slowly with weak lego electronics; all playability would be lost.

Congrats on the model! Can you please give more insight into what this exactly means, how it is achieved? I don't know how a proper boxer engine should work, but some people say this cannot be true with the lego cam/piston pieces. For example, there are 3 cams and 6 pistons, so they are paiwise connected/dependent. Is that true for the real engine? Furthermore, the cams can only be rotated 90 degrees, no 60 or 120 degree difference can be made (as would be realistic to achieve uniform spacing). That means that two cams will be 180 degree opposite each other, which means that 2 pistons out of the 6 are going to fire at the same time (on opposing sides). Is that realistic for this car? Or do we misunderstand something?

Thanks, nothing specific, just the overall constructions is what I was curious about!