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Stereo

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Everything posted by Stereo

  1. Stereo
    42604-1 has one in the escalator, I don't remember the details. 8299-1 has a nearly-correct diagonal forming its tail that has axles compensating for a "2 stud" distance that's actually 1.97 if everything were exact. Unless it's a 3-4-5 triangle I think you'll find a lot of diagonals are near fits. They can be hard to spot since they don't stress any parts. I don't know if the axle or pin has more tolerance; you can probably gauge it to some degree by seeing how much they freely tilt when inserted through a liftarm. The 7L thin liftarm just drops into place like this, with no stress on it, actually it could go to a steeper angle no problem if they're both tan. Hopefully clear what parts I'm using (tan frictionless, blue friction pin+axle)
  2. Stereo
    In the case of building on a slight angle (like 1/2 stud per 6-7 studs) there's probably no stress by using frictionless axle-pins to keep things located. I'm not sure what the actual limits on frictionless pins are but I've seen official lego use them for nearly-ok distances, maybe 5.95 studs instead of 6.
  3. Stereo
    It's 6, which I suppose is a good compromise spot cause it means it's 5 bricks tall in an elevator. The very large City crane coming out this year also has an 8 module long holder for it.
  4. Stereo
    The 1x2 with towball on the side looks like a good fit to me, but I haven't built the mechanism, and there are really quite a few options.
  5. Stereo
    I suppose they figured 180 sets in 11 years means leaving ~420 unused spots is enough for the foreseeable future. Even if they went to 50% more sets per year (because of small set recolours or something) it'd be another 17 years before it's a problem. I am a bit curious how the set numbering worked when Technic was in the 8000-9000 range though, the sets I have from back then seem to jump completely randomly other than small groups like 8444, 8445, 8446, 8448 all being from 1999.
  6. Stereo
    Had to make a few changes of course (mine tacks to the left instead of the right) but I managed to build it as an alt of set 42147:
  7. Stereo
    Just in case it matters, mine are all LEGO.com orders and they've been shipped from somewhere near Chicago.
  8. Stereo
    Checked some of the boxes I have around cause I'm in North America and curious, micro Ninjago city (VIP redeem) is TX. Spring garden house (GWP), scary pirate island (GWP) also TX. VIP teal brick has no code I can see. Easter basket (GWP) and 40608 VIP Hallowe'en bag are R along with the rest of my regular sets. So I guess it's a relatively recent thing? First one's last October.
  9. Stereo
    In my opinion, set numbers and part counts are fine at anything they wind up on, but they should be more careful of stickers within the sets. So in relation to that, sometimes the set number matters, cause they get used for license plates, aircraft call numbers, etc.
  10. Stereo
    So far my only oddities have been misprints, I have one manual that got bound in the wrong cover, and I think one where a page was way off-center in the print. Though I did get at least a handful of parts that should have failed QC, not enough plastic in the mold.
  11. Stereo
    Northern hemisphere is pointed towards the sun the most on the solstice, June 20th or so, yes.
  12. Stereo
    Yeah it does, I forgot all about that part.
  13. Stereo
    Version 1 above was functional but with some downsides. Here's version 2. Rarer parts, that get things exactly where I want them. 64799 plate 4x4 with 2x2 hole lets the PF wire end through; 4x4 with 2x2 round hole is better but won't fit a 2x2x2/3 brick. PU plugs should manage it? Of course you can also just build a square 2x2 hole without this piece, but I wanted at least some degree of sturdiness and only have 2 plates worth of height to build in. 1871 brick round 1x1 quarter dome leaves a quarter of the hole free for the wire. 68013 brick round half 1x2 should be part of the solution but I don't have any, so I used another 1871 as placeholder. 3396 tile 2x2 with quarter round cutouts should seal the deal, turning that square hole round... I don't have any of these either. And of course some 1x2x4 panel (or 2x 1x2x2) to make space under the car for the 2x3 plate it all sits on. In the future it could use a 2x3 plate with pinhole, and a 1745 half circle jumper upside down to get rid of those corners that interfere. Another part I don't have; they would reduce the modification to the set a bit. Anyway, it runs well on R40 track even without the 68013, and has a 4 stud gap between carriages. I'd probably simplify the non-wired end to use a 2x2 round brick so the construction is similar.
  14. Stereo
    The middle axle is the ideal one to move sideways but if it's inconvenient for other reasons (motorization,...) you could have fixed middle and one end, and let the other end slide. Doing some math, if the 14 stud beam is being used full length and the axles are 6 studs apart, on R88 the middle axle is 0.21 studs offset from the ends. On R40 it's 0.45 studs thus being able to use a 3 stud wide chassis. Meanwhile if one of the end axles slides, then on R88 it's 0.4 studs offset (still able to use 3 wide chassis) or on R40 it's 0.89 studs offset, would have to go to 2 wide... but of course R40 is very tight for that size engine. Actual design depends where you plan to attach side decorations, it could just be a train motor with a 2x6 stud plate sticking off one end with technic beams under it.
  15. Stereo
    Unfortunate, I guess the one point here that does work is a 9V source can power a PF motor directly, so it can be used for GBC type installations that run at constant speed. Or use RCX etc. to control them.
  16. Stereo
    Whoops, I forgot the wire comes out of PF motors in the least convenient spot for this. Had to move the pivot right off the end of the motor, so the car is half a stud away from where I wanted it. The other car can make up for it, it's just unfortunate that the motor won't be exactly halfway between the cars, and the other one will need more parts removed to make room, this one's only using about 15 parts not from the set. Only rare one is 2x2/2x4 inverted red tiles, I'm using a regular 2x6 plate and it catches on the wire a bit when the track changes direction.
  17. Stereo
    I suppose it's not 100% a Trains question, but does the 60656 Power Functions wire with light gray end work in both directions? Like connect a 9V source (Train regulator etc. for wall power) to PF IR receiver & motors/lights, and also PF IR receiver back to 9V motors? I believe due to the sounds that PF controls motor speed with PWM, whereas 9V uses lower voltage, so how does that translate across? Mostly on my mind cause I have an old 4760 battery box that I notice is 1 2/3 bricks shorter than a PF hub, and is available in black/white/red/yellow, so potential to integrate into a smaller space, even with the extra wire.
  18. Stereo
    Ah, I was only working from the box photos on Lego.com which don't really show that connection. Quite likely it can use the original carriage lengths, then - it only gets close to the hooks on the end of the motor, so I'd probably want to test run it on an actual track. The 1x6x6 doorframes are the only part I definitely don't have, so maybe I'll build the middle carriage when I get a chance.
  19. Stereo
    Interesting idea, testing a mockup with Stud.io it looks like it would lose 1/3 of the red brick under the window (for clearance above the motor's tiled area), and need an extra stud of length (neon yellow) making the car 18 instead of 16 studs long, plus the floor would be ~2 plates taller in the end section. But the gap between cars can remain 3 studs minus 2 tiles, it's still more than enough clearance to use R40. (upper one is my copy of the set's basic dimensions, to get wheel height and such, limited photos so it's not really accurate) I don't have good ideas for hiding a whole battery box though. Maybe you could blank out the windows of one end of a car like this, decorate it as a billboard ad or something.
  20. Stereo
    Technic Powered Up can't fit entirely inside it, minimum is 9x12x5 for the hub and motor, you'd need at least the bottom face to be replaced with a side of the hub. Possibly one of the ends also needs to expose the motor, not sure the thinnest option for attaching it to the pump. Other system smaller battery boxes are a lot easier, 5x4x8 city hub makes a lot of free space.
  21. Stereo
    Hey, at least the utility box comes with a bunch of panels (at least 5 3x11, 2 5x11, but I don't see any photos of the non-control panel end so maybe another 5x11) so you can rebuild a yellow-trimmed trailer out of it. Plus if it's not hollow, whatever's on the interior.
  22. Stereo
    Somewhere between Mammoet and CAT perhaps.
  23. Stereo
    The stability feet on the large crane are interesting. Somewhere between 2x2 and 4x6 plate with a towball socket on the top? At least I'm guessing it's a red 66906 towball connecting it to the leg. And I'd guess to store them you have to pop them out of the pin connector, cause I don't see any way to fold them up. (edit) Maybe they're for City semi truck 5th wheels? Sort of looks like it's a keyhole shape so you can slide the ball in from one side. I think the mystery parts might be black flagpoles, inserted through multiple 61332 to connect the arm to the "hydraulic cylinder". 3957b
  24. Stereo
    Thought about the pinhole with 3L axle again, it'd also be a nice upgrade to 5th wheel locking mechanisms - if you put a towball in its pinhole (or whatever connection) you can push and pull on it without stuff coming apart, unlike mechanisms that use an axle with stop that has eg. the perpendicular 6536 on it with a towball, which is push-only.
  25. Stereo
    I'm still not sold on the new 2x3 liftarm, it seems like so far it could just as well have been 2393 like this: The main difference I see is you can run it directly underneath of stud holes with no risk of catching on them, as I show with the green liftarm. Maybe there's a guideline against putting 1L liftarms onto these pieces because they have very tightly fitted pins?
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