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Stereo

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Everything posted by Stereo

  1. Stereo
    Unfortunate, I guess the one point here that does work is a 9V source can power a PF motor directly, so it can be used for GBC type installations that run at constant speed. Or use RCX etc. to control them.
  2. Stereo
    Whoops, I forgot the wire comes out of PF motors in the least convenient spot for this. Had to move the pivot right off the end of the motor, so the car is half a stud away from where I wanted it. The other car can make up for it, it's just unfortunate that the motor won't be exactly halfway between the cars, and the other one will need more parts removed to make room, this one's only using about 15 parts not from the set. Only rare one is 2x2/2x4 inverted red tiles, I'm using a regular 2x6 plate and it catches on the wire a bit when the track changes direction.
  3. Stereo
    I suppose it's not 100% a Trains question, but does the 60656 Power Functions wire with light gray end work in both directions? Like connect a 9V source (Train regulator etc. for wall power) to PF IR receiver & motors/lights, and also PF IR receiver back to 9V motors? I believe due to the sounds that PF controls motor speed with PWM, whereas 9V uses lower voltage, so how does that translate across? Mostly on my mind cause I have an old 4760 battery box that I notice is 1 2/3 bricks shorter than a PF hub, and is available in black/white/red/yellow, so potential to integrate into a smaller space, even with the extra wire.
  4. Stereo
    Ah, I was only working from the box photos on Lego.com which don't really show that connection. Quite likely it can use the original carriage lengths, then - it only gets close to the hooks on the end of the motor, so I'd probably want to test run it on an actual track. The 1x6x6 doorframes are the only part I definitely don't have, so maybe I'll build the middle carriage when I get a chance.
  5. Stereo
    Interesting idea, testing a mockup with Stud.io it looks like it would lose 1/3 of the red brick under the window (for clearance above the motor's tiled area), and need an extra stud of length (neon yellow) making the car 18 instead of 16 studs long, plus the floor would be ~2 plates taller in the end section. But the gap between cars can remain 3 studs minus 2 tiles, it's still more than enough clearance to use R40. (upper one is my copy of the set's basic dimensions, to get wheel height and such, limited photos so it's not really accurate) I don't have good ideas for hiding a whole battery box though. Maybe you could blank out the windows of one end of a car like this, decorate it as a billboard ad or something.
  6. Stereo
    Technic Powered Up can't fit entirely inside it, minimum is 9x12x5 for the hub and motor, you'd need at least the bottom face to be replaced with a side of the hub. Possibly one of the ends also needs to expose the motor, not sure the thinnest option for attaching it to the pump. Other system smaller battery boxes are a lot easier, 5x4x8 city hub makes a lot of free space.
  7. Stereo
    Hey, at least the utility box comes with a bunch of panels (at least 5 3x11, 2 5x11, but I don't see any photos of the non-control panel end so maybe another 5x11) so you can rebuild a yellow-trimmed trailer out of it. Plus if it's not hollow, whatever's on the interior.
  8. Stereo
    Somewhere between Mammoet and CAT perhaps.
  9. Stereo
    The stability feet on the large crane are interesting. Somewhere between 2x2 and 4x6 plate with a towball socket on the top? At least I'm guessing it's a red 66906 towball connecting it to the leg. And I'd guess to store them you have to pop them out of the pin connector, cause I don't see any way to fold them up. (edit) Maybe they're for City semi truck 5th wheels? Sort of looks like it's a keyhole shape so you can slide the ball in from one side. I think the mystery parts might be black flagpoles, inserted through multiple 61332 to connect the arm to the "hydraulic cylinder". 3957b
  10. Stereo
    Thought about the pinhole with 3L axle again, it'd also be a nice upgrade to 5th wheel locking mechanisms - if you put a towball in its pinhole (or whatever connection) you can push and pull on it without stuff coming apart, unlike mechanisms that use an axle with stop that has eg. the perpendicular 6536 on it with a towball, which is push-only.
  11. Stereo
    I'm still not sold on the new 2x3 liftarm, it seems like so far it could just as well have been 2393 like this: The main difference I see is you can run it directly underneath of stud holes with no risk of catching on them, as I show with the green liftarm. Maybe there's a guideline against putting 1L liftarms onto these pieces because they have very tightly fitted pins?
  12. Stereo
    The red bushes on the lower control arm also seem to wedge things in place, at least enough to pick it up gently.
  13. Stereo
    It is wedge shaped, maybe the side panels fold open?
  14. Stereo
    It's 41531 fan housing on the left, and 68869 rounded 4x4 tile on the right, no? Bar 6L with stop ring in orange (behind the cab) is a new colour, I haven't spotted anything else unique to this set.
  15. Stereo
    Looks like it, yeah. seats fold flat and then the suspension folds over top. Front wheel arches on the Koenigsegg are a 3x9 version of the 3x13 curved panel? Hey, at least it has a functional differential again.
  16. Stereo
    I'm curious about the pauldron piece on the panda too, looks like a smooth shell shape with 2 studs at one end (spaced 3 apart) and antistud gaps at the other end (4 apart?). And hollow inside. Can't tell what the interior attachment point is, maybe it's got a bar inside like the other shoulder piece.
  17. Stereo
    I don't know what to expect of "kids these days," I got the Robotics Invention System when I was 12 and didn't have trouble building with it, though old style wires are easier to manage in my opinion (too bad the insulation died over the last 20 years). I did and probably still do have trouble looking at a pile of parts and thinking of something to make from them though. It happens, but most of the time I want to build something according to instructions, or go freeform, any parts that exist go into the model. (easier to build those IRL now that I have a 100k pieces) My 'dark ages' were more because of competing interests, then I went to university for a long time, and lived pretty minimally the entire time, I had software toys. Centralized power with geartrains out to where it's needed is preferable to me over running wires anyway. 3 motors with rotary encoders is really enough for any slow speed machines. With more than 3 outputs you just use one as a selector on one or both of the others. So then it's a question of whether the software supports that kind of thing, makes it easy to share configurations, and so on.
  18. Stereo
    They're really tough to find by clicking around the Lego website, if I remember right I could only see them with the EN-GB locale enabled and there was no page pointing to them, you just had to know the set's number and search for that on PaB. I think the concept of selling all parts for a set through PaB is still in beta.
  19. Stereo
    I finally built this set, I do like the functions and the way the whole vehicle transforms. I'm just baffled by the part usage in the steering. It uses a new 2x3 technic beam, that could just as easily have been 2393 connector hub with 2 pins with 1 stud liftarms on it. Both of which are in the set anyway. And it has half pins inserted that as far as I can see, don't interact with any other part. Also not big on the ground clearance of the rear axle, the gear for the lift mechanism is so low that it can't roll over anything more than 1 plate tall. So it gets stuck on the edge of my carpet. It'll probably sacrifice some sturdiness but I think I'm going to attempt to relocate that control upward.
  20. Stereo
    If you brought the gap down to 1/2 stud, and made the pivot point near the top of the rails where they have electric contacts on the sides, you could probably connect 9V at that end of the bridge. The way tracks interlock means the other end can't be fit any closer together though. Being 1.5 studs longer than normal straight track instead of 2 studs isn't really an improvement for getting it onto the grid, as well. Though from what I've heard, on a straight section of track, as long as the flanges have a surface to ride on, trains are a bit tough to derail. They prefer to continue going straight, and will just get back on track after the gap. So a small gap might run fine and as long as it's less than 6 studs long, 9V motors have enough pickups to keep powering past it.
  21. Stereo
    73763 worm gear has the same 1 stud spacing of teeth, and would fit neatly in the 6 stud gap of the 8 stud long frame piece. So it'd be a very easy to build crane arm, you run axles through the center hole until the end section where there's a worm gear. The 6x13 diagonal I suppose could be used to brace frames at a larger scale? Lots of sets use the 3x5 L beam and 5x9 (32009) beam to keep things square, this is another option to do that, the actual 5x8 diagonal it represents doesn't seem like a special triangle to me. It's not a pythagorean triple, 4x8 would have matched up with wedge plates but I don't think this does. The existing 2637 16 long link I suppose can only do the 9-12-15 triple so maybe this fills a gap in diagonal lengths, between the 6-4 bent liftarm (which does 3-4-5) and 16 link.
  22. Stereo
    Speaking of these wheels, the UCS Tie Interceptor recolours them in Light Bluish Gray: Hopefully they'll get into a set a little less expensive than $230 per 2, now that the option exists...
  23. Stereo
    Oh, this reminded me to check, since I just got one in a used set. The 68325 4x4 with recess also locks to the turntable base.
  24. Stereo
    The sizes I have should be medium & small (from 8266, 8509) and are ~14mm inner diameter, same as the current small white ones, and ~19mm, with 1.5mm square section. I also have a thicker one (from 8720?) of 19mm inner diameter with 2mm square section. I'm not sure Lego currently uses 19mm, they seem to trust the white ones to stretch a lot.
  25. Stereo
    I suppose you're not actually limited to using a single neck bracket though. And this traps a frictionless pin in both directions, so it's not going to fall out. (this is the thick neck bracket variant, cause it's 1/2 plate thick and fits the grid)
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