Stereo

Yeah, cause when LEGO puts out those parts (eg. the recent ET added a couple medium nougat that I want) I don't suddenly have an urge to buy the set. Talking about colours, rare could be as small as a handful of test batches when they create the mold, to see if that colour meets tolerances. Then they clear the mold out and print the ones that are actually in sets.

I guess the thing for me is, I've been an AFOL for about 6 years and I have more than enough bricks. If I never bought another set, it would just give me more time to think about the 140+ sets that I have assembled (and 80,000 odd bulk bricks). So, same as official sets, it'd have to be something special, worthy of replacing something on my shelf. I'm not looking at blank shelves, I'm looking at sets I already own and enjoy. When I look at other brands and see the recoloured parts it is exciting but I have to ask myself why I feel that way. And the answer is, because it would be exciting if LEGO did it. This isn't the same argument as "working with a limited palette" exactly. It's more like a rarity thing. It's exciting to find a rare genuine piece because you know what kind of rare it is. If another brand stamps out 'counterfeits' then you have to treat them as what they are, small chunks of carefully molded plastic. If that's what you want, good, but first separate that feeling from the novelty/rarity.

Looks like the St. Martins Sea Caves in the Bay of Fundy. I think I've been there, a long time ago.

I guess I'm a purist in that it's "my LEGO collection" not "my bricks similar to LEGO's designs collection," I have a small number of 3rd party parts covering things LEGO does not make (large-radius train tracks) but I'm not interested in judging how other people gather bricks to use in their MOCs. I do think splitting into too many subforums will just lead to nobody actually looking at whatever 'extra' ones get created to structure things. So I prefer option 4 and if people don't want to talk about 3rd party bricks, just skip those tagged topics.

All 4 of those yes. First 3 it goes all the way through, last one only 1 stud into it of course. This one also yes (at least on the one I tried; it has 2 variants) And these have variants that work: (1L at each end, middle no, same as the 3L frictionless one with the stop at the end) These do, But these do not allow a bar: (for clarity, friction version black, frictionless lbg)

I think the 40th anniversary "special" ($20 + $30 + $60 sets combined into an 8860 lookalike) is about the right price for something special, I wouldn't want a $400 flagship that I'm not going to buy to be the only thing they design for the 50th.

More likely guess to me is that 16t behind the engine is part of the steering, as is the axle under it, and the engine has another pair of 16t gears under the dashboard. The clutch gears and those engine discs don't interact at all, same end profile as axle-connectors that get used between clutch gears to hold the shift ring.

A long time ago (2003) I tried pneumatics in the 8448: They might work better with modern heavier cars, but the friction in the cylinders meant they didn't work well here. To get them to move, I needed to run the system up to 10-15 psi, and then that much air in the cylinders would make the suspension rock hard at whatever position it was left at. In context as dampers you'd call them extremely overdamped.

They're more like having the two ports connected by a tube. The pneumatic air pumps are actually the closest thing to a spring+damper, it'd be mostly a friction damper though. As the internal seal generates most of the resistance. Likewise most designs of Lego spring have enough friction to effectively be damped. If they weren't being damped, cars would just continue bouncing once you compress and release the suspension spring.

It's a standard option, you can either get to it from the build page ('Change Build Options' button opens the settings), or, on the account settings page, go to "Building Sets/MOCs" and change the defaults so any time you get to a build page it'll be set the way you use.

Yeah, Rebrickable will tell you which part list a given part is in, but not really meant to sort down to X drawer, Y cabinet type detail. I believe the intended workflow on Rebrickable for private projects is that you create a Custom List, load the parts into it, use the list details to make it a "To Build" type list, which creates a 'Build this List' button that moves you into their regular building UI. From there you can edit the build options to disregard colour, part variants etc. as needed. Then click "Find my parts" to show which lists the parts necessary for the build are in. That page has a CSV export so you might be able to get a colour-specific list of what it found for you to take back to Brickstore's more detailed inventory; I haven't tried using it in any-colour builds that way.

Too bad the Cobra's arches aren't available black yet, they look a lot more like this style of flare.

I think they're the exhaust manifold, spark plugs go in the top of the head.

The article about repairability would be interesting to me but it seems to be based on the wrong data? It lists a few sets as 0% (Assembly Square, Land Rover Defender 90) that on their individual pages show the more accurate 2-3% which is low but not none.

I think it's the same thickness as the usual end-tolerance of a piece - so where a regular "2L" axle is 15.8mm, or a 2x2 brick is 15.8mm square, a 2L stuck into this goes up to 15.9mm.