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amorti

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Everything posted by amorti

  1. amorti
    On that one, you should get some metal universal joints for the front wheels. It eats plastic ones.
  2. amorti
    This one, although it's not there in orange yet.
  3. amorti
    Looks great! Did you try the new big triangle panels on the hood?
  4. amorti
    Guys we're wandering here. We've moved off the relatively safe ground of CaDA, and wandered to MouldKing and now AliExpress and the morals of copying MOCs (which CaDA doesn't do). Let's stay on track, eh? We're already stretching Admin's good grace by having this thread at all. @Jim I'd invite a clean-up, if you're willing to get involved.
  5. amorti
    The shocks also seem tight compared to Lego shocks, they get squeaky with a little while on the shelf. It might be an issue on a crawler, however, I am not sure it matters on a supercar with only a few mm of suspension anyway.
  6. amorti
    Looks great! Just needs some custom chrome wheels...
  7. amorti
    There may be a 1:5 bike with proper counter steering, ready to join the party by then
  8. amorti
    There may be a 1:5 bike with proper counter steering, ready to join the party by then :)
  9. amorti
    @janssnet Is this project still alive? I've been working on this one which initiates counter steering in a different way. It works well, but it's clumsy, and the moving steering neck means you couldn't put much bodywork on there. I didn't share it here on EB since you can't build it without CaDA alternating beams (Lego still has only 11&15 lengths, and for this you need at least 2x 7's. Your bike has the front wheel mounted one stud ahead of the steering pivot (I think?). In all tests I've done, the wheel needs to be mounted 1 to 2 studs behind the pivot to have any chance at being stable. It's not realistic, however you will see same in most/all RC bikes. Maybe give it a try, see if you gain that missing stability?
  10. amorti
    It is, but it's not the problem. The Ducati shocks simply don't allow for a solid connection.
  11. amorti
    Same happened to me. The differential is inferior. If you change to the newer type, change the gears at the back of the transfer box too, should give you back the speed you'll lose.
  12. amorti
    I've just got a Buwizz3 and found the same. It takes a couple of attempts to creep up on the center position, and doesn't always get it. Auto calibration would be a boon, but as long as it's manual the OCD in me struggles with "nearest 5 degrees", because I know the center on my current project is between the teeth of a 20 tooth gear, so it's somewhere on a 9^ mark.
  13. amorti
    I wonder if Amazon gets a say in this? There's been quite a few offers where you could get Lego in "Reduced Packing" or whatever they call it. Basically they slap a sticker on the box and send it. Maybe they have had enough of oversized / oddly proportioned boxes?
  14. amorti
    Funny you should say that. I'm fine with using 7l alternating beams, but I can't quite get over filing stuff. Different types of purist?
  15. amorti
    In terms of dimensions, I reckon it's the same as the buwizz motor. Might even say based on same...
  16. amorti
    Thank you!
  17. amorti
    I only have bw2, but the model I'm building calls for two buggy motors and a PU motor fits to steer it. Could someone please let me know about the centering behaviour of a bw3 with a PU L motor? Is it able to settle on a centre which is not at an even 90° point, but half a tooth off? In the case I have in mind, it would need to be half a tooth on a 20 tooth gear off a 90° point ; 9° if my maths is right.
  18. amorti
    I want it but "I don't necessarily want to have to buy it even if it's worth the money", is very much the same as "I want it but for free". Yes I can speak German, and yes I did understand exactly the meaning of your words.
  19. amorti
    You're not serious? Oh this thread started by the designer himself, you're asking for someone to share his intellectual property for free? And you're posting in German, when the board rules say post in English? Get lost.
  20. amorti
    Yes but there are always compromises. With big wheels and no gears comes a high CoG, and a large gyroscope which is fine until you hit a bump and it starts to oscillate.
  21. amorti
    Flicking through the motors page at @Philo's site, this caught my eye: https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm Now I'm a novice in this stuff, so hoping maybe Philo or someone else knows more and could explain. If you have a battery and motor which output (for the sake of easy Maths) 1,000rpm unloaded which translates through the selected gears and tires to 50km/h, does the above mean you're more likely to actually hit 50 by gearing for 100?
  22. amorti
    @P McCattyI think we are all used to unpacking @Philo's part packspacks, so that would be my preference.
  23. amorti
    Interesting test, and extremely thorough as always! The gearbox you constructed for this is (within the bounds of ABS plastic) very sturdy. I suspect there would be more difference in a less-rigid gearbox, where the gears would be more able to rub the adjacent liftarm. Also more difference in a construction where the typical user might pinch a gear too tight?
  24. amorti
    @brunojj1 carbon gears! I'm excited already. CaDA old type diffs are inferior as illustrated higher up the thread, but I've had no trouble with anything else. I actually often prefer CaDA's 20t tan gears with their squarer teeth.
  25. amorti
    How far dies it need to rotate? Maybe a 2L rubber axle in the middle, joined to the hole below, would work?
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