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amorti

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Everything posted by amorti

  1. amorti
    Thanks for sharing! The main way to make a set accessible is to make it a C model of an existing set. Obviously barring the wheels, how close are the first two versions to being possible to build out of the tracked stunt racer? Of course then with M motors.
  2. amorti
    Funny you mention progressive suspension. I was messing with that on a motorcycle a day or two ago. Real life: In LEGO: Worked really nice: first half of the shock travel got 2.5L travel at the wheel, second half got 1.5L at the wheel. However, it does add 3 pivots where there is no option but axle in pinhole, so it won't work out for RC purposes. Too much added instability. Real shame Lego didn't do this on the BMW though, they had plenty of space.
  3. amorti
    I did havr this one as about a 12 year old boy. I'd say you've done it justice, although it's a shame Lego doesn't have anything like the flex cables anymore, they were cool! I'd have liked to see the new (2011!) type coat hanger piece. I don't think you'd see a bevel gear without a bevel frame on a modern set.
  4. amorti
    I think that given the set's weight (Google suggests 1.24kg but IDK if that's including the box?) and one M motor for power, you'd be doing well to get it drifting even with a CaDA pro motor and buwizz. Honestly, I'm impressed it moves as well as it does. It's not a technic leaning bike like @piterx does and I made instructions for, it's a Creator bike and it's amazing it moves at all, and probably a bad plan to try and get it much faster.
  5. amorti
    Great work on the greebling around the back end. Altogether, good work!
  6. amorti
    The training wheels underneath.
  7. amorti
    Looks great! Would you be so kind and also upload to rebrickable? https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-87577/A_morti/motocross-bike-self-balancing-rc-motorcycle/#photos I have no idea if the motor will pull it, but you could gear for a little extra speed using a pair of old 14 tooth bevel gears. Tip learned here from @phmzt
  8. amorti
    Same, the shocks on mine squeal when you move the suspension. They don't seem to be as good as Lego ones. I decided to ignore it, it's mostly a display piece and anyway the suspension has minimal travel.
  9. amorti
    Now you deleted 2 motors, maybe you could move the two remaining buwizz units into the motors' spots (IDK exactly if there's space), allowing you to reduce the width of the vehicle by deleting the side pods. This would improve ground clearance, and further reduce weight. What's the story with the "adaptive caster"? Does it basically mean there's an additional pivot in the chassis? It strikes me as extra complication (weight) and a weak/flex point. Are you open to non-Lego motors? I ask since you already use carbon axles and CaDA u-joints. These CaDA motors bring almost double the speed for similar torque to Lego motors. They are too hungry to let you run a buwizz2 on Ludicrous, but then you won't need to. https://www.custombricks.de/motors-cables-sbrick/cada-power-functions-l-motor.html
  10. amorti
    I've broken a couple of servos on Greyhound, so your model also definitely has the possibility of doing same. Considering PF servos are 80€ now, that's no joke... how about converting to a PU large motor for steering, and powering the whole show with a couple of Buwizz3? You get more accurate steering from a cheaper motor, and higher voltage all round. The PF outputs kick out more amps than a bw2 can, so I reckon two would be enough in that case.
  11. amorti
    Looks amazing! I bet like Greyhound, it'll do those 15 km/h whatever terrain happens to be in the way. You can make those excellent hubs from @Didumos69 just a little stronger as follows. It allows you to put the X hole of the wheel nearer the drive axle (less play) and have the wheel ride pin in pin hole instead of axle in pin hole (less play). That's a whole lot of drive motors. I wonder if you get much advantage after the 4th? Since the 5th and 6th require adding the weight of the motors, and an extra buwizz. Is there space on board for buggy motors?
  12. amorti
    Could you use this instead of the 36 tooth gear, to allow use of something bigger than the 8 tooth gears? https://rebrickable.com/parts/2711/technic-plate-1-x-5-with-toothed-ends-2-studs-and-center-axle-hole/ Not tried it, but seems like something should be possible even if the studs aren't ideal. Even so, I think the real deal breaker will be when there's enough torque going through there, that the Servo can't hold it all steady.
  13. amorti
    So, I also did some minor mods, no parts required. Nothing to aesthetics, because to me this already looks plenty good enough for a technic set. It's all about the functions! The 5.5L axles on the 2nd axle stick out too far compared to those on axles 3&4. So at step 8 swap them for 4L axles with stop from bag 4, which are for the winch ratchet levers. You can then use the 5.5L axles on the ratchet handles in steps 623 and 630. There are two red 1L axle bushes in the spare parts to put on those so they look more like function parts. Swap the 16:20 gear pair on the crane rotation input so you can actually use that function without getting out of breath. They go on at steps 60 and 74. The 20t gear is close to hitting the 2*4 liftarm that raises the 2nd axle, but there's no actual collision. Same goes for the rear lifter input. At step 100 put the 20t not the 16t, then at step 104 put that 20t in, instead of the 16t. Again, it'll make the function actually usable.
  14. amorti
    You've nit met Sariel then. He pretty much left here in a huff about being picked up on being unfriendly to newbies, and many less new other users.
  15. amorti
    You're probably right, it would make a good fit for the centre mid panel. However I'm always more interested in new technic functions than new panels. So, I couldn't care much less about a fancy gearbox but I'm hoping for a proper rear suspension linkage.
  16. amorti
    10.3 cm wide. So if the engine is 8 studs, there's 6.4cm. That gives 4cm (5 studs) for the fairings, which is about what they needed for the Ducati. No, this definitely doesn't need bigger pistons. It'll have the classic ones. It does however need new wheels, tyres, forks, and maybe a new rear shock absorber. I hope so anyway, it'd be lame to see a 6.5L shock there, even if it is about the right length for scale
  17. amorti
    How big do you want it? Standard pistons will give an engine 8 studs wide, then you need a couple more to hang it. The Ducati is about 9 studs wide across the fairings and it looks bloated AF. Granted the new one is a bigger scale, but it's not that much bigger considering it'll have to hide an 8 stud wide engine.
  18. amorti
    Well, the 2019 Harley FatBoy has 1868cc and two pistons (934cc each), while the BMW has 999cc and 4 pistons (250cc each). Even if you go up in scale from 1:7(ish?) to 1:5, it makes sense the Harley would want bigger pistons.
  19. amorti
    One could say much the same about a Bugatti and a Sian or GT3 RS. A difference in the number of cylinders is trivial, according to LEGO, they're all just big gearboxes with four wheels and double wishbone suspension all round. Still, I agree it would be interesting to see different stuff. Maybe a trellis frame, maybe new bigger pistons for a 1:5 v-twin or triple. Unlikely to happen as a set, but with these new large motorcycle parts, I can imagine someone doing hub steering as a moc.
  20. amorti
    Why wouldn't you use only the 3.0? Buwizz says it's specifically designed to power two of their motors, is that not the case?
  21. amorti
    Could it be solved with a planetary hub as a torque multiplier? Just spitballing.
  22. amorti
    I like the second one, too. It's even further away from the original model, which is a good trick when using the same parts. Bit of a back to the future vibe about it.
  23. amorti
    Also interested. Got some Class wheels, also some 120mm RC wheels.
  24. amorti
    Nice mod, makes the fairings a little more rigid, and brings the bottom of the bike just a little narrower. Great mod! It gives the engine a decent speed, makes the gearchange more noticeable, and reduces friction in the gear train a lot. Very good mod! I never liked rubber bands on principle, and here they just weren't the right solution. This works even better if you let the pin hub connector slide onto the grey half-pin (yes I know that is illegal) Yes! It works great, and frankly those 14t gears are nearly useless for anything else as they require such perfect alignment to work nicely as bevel gears. It's mildly satisfying to know it has a more-realistic crankshaft, but centring the engine in the frame has really helped my OCD-eye. My personal preference doesn't extend to greebling such as brake levers etc., and I definitely wouldn't restrict suspension movement to add those. Even so, some nice work has been shared, I especially liked the hot dogs! I will have a look later at how best to solve the stand problem as there are multiple suggestions in the thread to check out. Thank you to everyone who contributed, those have turned the set into something considerably more pleasing!
  25. amorti
    Did anyone try RC motorcycle tyres on a Lego model?
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