amorti

You are more than a little crazy I have no clue how (or why) you'd mount that thing which vibrates like crazy, gets very hot, and spits oil everywhere inside a plastic thing which can easily stress fracture, or melt, or get dissolved by oils. And that's before we even consider what that type of motor will do to a plastic axle. It'll also almost instantly shred the rubber connectors you've used as clutch shoes.

@aFrInaTi0nI'm super happy with how it steers now :) The batpod was requested enough times now: Let's sanitise the construction and do instructions for you to offer. Don't know if you have further mods in mind, but I think it already works good enough that people will enjoy it.

I think that would be like that icon in the corner of your phone which says 4G or 5G? Would be useful to know whether to send it 25m or 50m away from the controller.

PID, PI, P, LWP... Good for you that you know what those mean, but I shouldn't be forced into looking up these acronyms in order to play with a toy I bought. I also shouldn't be forced to tick a box that says "I understand that these settings can damage the motor" just to make a servo do servo things. And by the way, there's no model size or weight involved in my current issue. The buwizz cannot centre the medium angular motor even with nothing attached to it.

Your focus absolutely should be making it work for simple functions, straight out the box. It doesn't make any sense to even consider a 3-rotation gearbox module which one user wants, while servos aren't calibrating and centering properly which every user wants. Does the buwizz know from the motor, which motor it is ? A lot of the variables you mention can be eliminated by making it a requirement to pick the model up before trying to calibrate the steering.

I understand what you're saying, but I cannot agree. This is a toy. I didn't pay 250€ for a battery and two motors expecting to be referred to a 48 page user guide and have to program the thing every time just to have it work. So, I've reverted my latest model to a Chinese battery and PF servo. It won't be as fast, it won't be as fancy, but it will have some 200€ less money in it, and it'll work every time without programming further than deciding whether to couple or reverse any of the PF ports.

At max deadband boost, it's the same.

80% is pretty violent, pulls things apart. 60% works though - it works now :) It still kinda sucks at finding the centre. I think this is the case. With calibration power <55% it won't work, with <60% it is sometimes working. Suggest you set 60% as the minimum option. Also it's constantly at 0.1 amps when it's "close to" the centre, and trying to make a small adjustment to find it, but I guess stiction is too high. Suggest to allow it 0.15 for that in the firmware rather than 0.1.

Idiot me decided to try re-installing the firmware. Now it's failing to transfer block 1 of Tajnik, and it feels like I've bricked this brick.

I was trying too early, nothing had updated. First time beta testing! Of course I know in theory how to put end stops and set up a motor as a servo. That is good to know about the reduction. But it doesn't work. The servo just makes a light whistling sound when I tell it to calibrate, it doesn't move towards the end stops at all. Annoying I can't readily video it with the same phone doing the calibration :/

Confirmed about centre steering on the medium angular motor. I found the custom settings for that, with way too many variables that give no clue what they do. Is it really intended to only operate max 20° steering angle? Even if we pretend that's useful, it keeps resetting it to 0°

The medium angular motor doesn't seem to have servo support yet, or am I doing it wrong?

I'm with @Toastie, I was sure it would be done with software. Very impressive build!

We're kinda stuck with the old CV joints at the wheel hub until/unless Lego gives us something better. A metal U-joint would also work and be more durable, but not ideal since it wouldn't be aligned and so the axle would have to flex for it to work. There's always the argument to increase speed through the drivetrain to reduce torque, then use planetary hubs. But that's a risky game when you're playing with buggy motors, and stuff melts real quick.

Now live on rebrickable: Power functions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-143067/A_morti/twister-pf-self-balancing-rc-cafe-racer-motorcycle/#details Powered Up: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-143083/A_morti/twister-pu-self-balancing-rc-cafe-racer-motorcycle/#details

If you're running two buwizz motors off one bw3, then despite the now rolled back sales promise, it can't do that without shutting down. Especially if they're driving a heavy model, and double especially if they're going through a friction heavy gearbox first. By that I mean even just a few gears and a bevel to a differential.

Now Lego has a 7L alternating beam in not-green, this one has become possible without cheat parts. It's currently pending with rebrickable in two versions: bw2 and bw3, both with two buwizz motors on a Pf socket each, one with a Pf servo for steering and the other with a Pu large motor.

That would make me sad.

Buwizz has said this April. I really hope so as I've a model in the bench which needs that.

@Johnny1360 I bet it worked great in cad

Is it the bucket?

The 2 Micro motors will probably be used for the actuators, then 4 medium motors for the rest: tracks, tracks, swivel, boom raise. Maybe doubled up on swivel or boom raise? The docking station is interesting though. Is it going to be for splitting the signal to the 2 motors which double up? Or as an extension for 1 motor, or can it deliver different different functions, like a canbus?

The new type CV joints could work. There's space for the bigger diameter, would need to find some way to support the back end of the joint. Will keep it in mind in case of excess vibration.

CADA has other licenses with JCB, but for their RC toys, so I guess that was a good head start for getting the JCB license. I always wonder if JCB seeing Cat's LEGO license would encourage them to go with (let's be honest with ourselves in terms of market position) a second tier brick toy company. In any case, if the toys are good then both parties can win.

We're using metal universal joints. There's enough support for plastic joints and the angles are minimal, but they will rip apart with the speeds we're talking about. CV joints aren't great for durability either and become a wear item, which really doesn't last long. https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/179234-metal-universal-joints/ I guess it could be worth synchronising the joints. Never thought about it.