amorti

Eric Trax, brunojj1, brickphisto and some others have. It's definitely a real thing. I wouldn't pin your hopes on a GBC module though. There's never been such a set from any maker, so either it's an untapped market, or much more likely there is no market for it.

I suggest this one: https://bricksafe.com/register/ It's what most users here use, I believe. Each image gets a link for various resolutions, you can pick the suitable size for the forum. 800px I think (not sure)

Well the stop can sit against that tube, can't it? Just means you need to use a 4L with stop on that side and a 3L with stop on the other. If it works like that... If it's tight, you could maybe even use it for limiting slip, depending how tight. @efferman has the part. What can it do? You'd also be only half a stud away from using the stronger new type CV joints.

Might be an idea to join the FB group for CaDA fans and ask if there's anyone in your country. https://www.facebook.com/groups/cadabricks/

You can get more powerful and/or faster motors from Chinabricks makers, but so far mostly only for power functions because Lego has copy protected the PU socket. What I think you really need is higher voltage batteries. There are threads in here about that, this video may be a good starting place. Alternatively, most/all those models could be rebuilt with a buwizz 3 power unit. That would boost you from 9v (7.2v with rechargeable batteries) to 12v. Finally - you may have too high expectations. This is a brick toy which can also move, it's not really an RC toy. Give it too much speed/power, and you quickly find the limits of ABS bricks.

Great and fun little model, well done! I'm sure others would be interested to see how it was done - do you have detail pictures?

Now I see! And even more options with CaDA's perpendicular connector for 3 pins, or some other flip flop beam construction. You always had an option like on the Lego Corvette and many other models, where a 2L connector is trapped on the outside of the diff's frame to retain a plain 3L axle, but this is much neater, and more compact. You could get directly from there, to a CV joint. Thank you!

You could insert axles with stops from the inside, so they couldn't slip out of the differential gears. But... you can't then fit it within a frame.

That is an interesting characteristic - but I can't decide how useful it is in the most common applications, as you wouldn't then be able to get the differential inside of a frame. Without putting it inside a frame, there's a high risk of the gear driving the differential slipping. Of course, there are other uses where this could be useful, such as in a central differential. What am I missing?

Could you give some more information, specifically how you mounted the drive motor? Thanks

Don't see why not - assuming they're really from CaDA and not other Chinese brands with lower moral standards.

Enjoy the build! If you take anything from this thread, let it be to use CaDA's/Bruno's tip sheet, a 5.5 axle in the steering wheel, and block the gearbox during construction so it's lined up at the end. The one from Bruno about changing the gears at the back of the gearbox is also good, it will go faster and the amazing gearbox will be more purposeful, as it can't pull away in highest gear anymore. If you have one, I'd also say to put a Lego differential and 20 tooth gears in, as the CaDA diff may be weak with extended play and CaDA 20t gears don't run smooth with a Lego diff.

+1 You're right. Probably best to keep rage against the machine to other places, admin is making a big concession here.

Maybe CaDA should have put a design protection on it!

I even missed that the diff wasn't in the centre in either direction, so of course you couldn't use the 20t gear normally in a 5*7. I did see your mod version on the CaDA Facebook group. It's tricky, right? I guess you can't post that on rebrickable.

Just realized it's hanging in the middle of a brick frame. Maybe it'd be fine in a 5*7?

I've been thinking about getting the big Humvee, but didn't do it yet. The colour-vomit puts me off, and you can't get it from any EU supplier yet. I wonder if that's due to the orange wave selector. Why does the 20t thin gear make it pointless? I thought the main purpose was to have a stronger diff (you can't pop the centre pin out like I did) rather than having the extra reduction?

+1! Thanks to all the guys n gals who put their time in to the forum. No need to @ them, since I'm sure they're all watching this one carefully anyway :D Did anyone see this video? Apologies - it's in German only. This one unfortunately rounded off the teeth on the differential. I have a theory. My pics from the thread on Bruno's red one: CaDA's old 20t gears had squarer teeth than Lego's: They redesigned them more like Lego's in the meantime. Their Diffs have rounder teeth than Lego's (CaDA's is at the top) You can see the plastic dust - those rounder teeth on the CaDA diff were already a liability with the squarer 20t gears (although my Diff from Bruno's red one snapped the middle pin out before the teeth could round out). Since CaDA rounded the teeth on the 20 tooth gears, if they didn't also redesign the diffs, then the teeth were always going to be a problem when shunting a big heavy model around. If anyone gets that model for themselves, I'd recommend to fit a Lego diff, and maybe Lego 20t gear also depending on how smooth it runs in a frame. To be honest, a near 4kg model with two buggy motors deserves the new 5-gear diff, but maybe CaDA doesn't have it yet?

@1gor you'll haven a very slow vehicle if you use only 24t gears to connect PF XL motors 1:1, then downgear at 12:28 on the differential and 1:5.4 at the planetary hub. Like REALLY slow. I'd suggest building a very quick and dirty test rig, just to see how slow we're talking about. Probably you'll want to gain at least a little speed before you get to the diff.

My favourite thing about this thread is how no one has simply said "you're clearly mental, it's time to put the bricks down, now". Considering how far you're talking about reaching and how weak/bendy Lego is at those lengths, it's going to take a lot. For my part, I'd suggest getting a mobile bridge building game, and seeing what works there. Or putting the bricks down...

MouldKing (also Sembo, or anyone who uses GoBricks pieces) pins are pretty stubborn, on a par with the old Lego pins, I'd say. However... is this perhaps demonstrating a misconception? No matter how strong the pins are, something which is held only by friction is always at risk of pulling out. With modern studless Technic, you should instead look to form-lock anything which is at risk of pulling out. This means putting pieces at right-angles so that the only way the assembly could pull out, is if the locking piece gets split in half.

Funny enough, that's exactly what they did on the new BMW bike. Few small changes on the Fast Bike in the meantime since this thread: better-looking headlight (model team rim and 2x radar dishes), side stand that doesn't necessarily have to be removed before play time (change from #4 to #3 connector), remove a few superfluous pieces, price drop from 5€ to 3€.

Would be great if it could be on vacation to grow a position sensor. Could be very useful for steering then.

@imurvai would it be possible to have a steering control that offered digital control only? Whether through a D-pad or through a joystick, would both be fine. The plan would be to control a Chinese servo with only 1/0/1 positions by buwizz 2. When this is done currently, the servo glitches as it doesn't know whether to stop at 0 or 1.

@StudWorks looks good, it's a lot faster! Probably be easier to convert to buwizz 3 since that exists now, and has even more volts.