amorti

I've made that devil's pin a few times. It doesn't have enough friction to hold against any kind of pulling force. Can still be useful to keep the pins in line in other directions though. Some alternative brand 3L pins "just" let you push a bar all the way through. Toit loik a toiger... Sometimes just what the Dr. ordered. Especially if you don't need those parts for anything else ever again.

@gyenesvi I would very much like a 6L axle with stop. Would be really useful as a motorcycle front wheel spindle! Other than that, though, I'm not sure there's a load of use cases you can't solve in another way.

Go to efferman's kindly provided folder. You find much more than 11&15

Thank you! Works great :)

In particular, the 3L beam with pins on the end, 6L & 7L crossbeams, and the CADA battery box. The other crossbeams and beams with pins on the end can also be useful for future use, but aren't needed rn.

@efferman asking since you have a cooperation with CaDA and are a studio / CAD wizard: Do you have the CaDA specific pieces in studio, and can you share them?

I hope not. They do have plenty of educational kits and smaller stuff aimed squarely at the kids' market. I think any kid who builds their experience first can build any model. I mean - I built 8868 when I was 10 years old and that's often mentioned as among the hardest sets to build, ever.

This is an appropriate reaction Also definitely no hard feelings, since you really went to town on the pimped version too. I'm absolutely fine with extra parts becoming available, however it does bother me when there are awesome pieces that Lego doesn't have, because I can't really use them in any model I'd like to publish. For that reason I haven't really made a lot of use of the beams with pins on the ends. Yet.

I do have your Classic German sportscar from CaDA. I built it with motors, but eventually I'll rebuild it without and use the motors elsewhere. Think we discussed elsewhere, but the structure really isn't enough for those Pro motors, and there's not really much that can be done, to make it so!

No, not as big, but it's big. There will be (and already are) sets and MOCs which just wouldn't be possible without those beams. @aFrInaTi0n kindly sent me some to use in a project we've been collaborating on. You can get them from various online sources based in China. We all know the usual suspects, but I suspect naming them will be over admin's tolerance, so I shan't push my luck.

Back briefly to the subject of CaDA bricks. I am now a huge fanboy of flip flop beams. The first ones I used were from Lego in the Zetros and Tow Truck, but why does Lego only have them in 11 and 15 stud length? I now have some in lengths 3,4,5,6,7 and 9 (thank you @aFrInaTi0n!) and they just make everything better. Constructions can frequently be stronger, and more compact. They also give a new challenge in the building process: where could I use those guys? will the alternating holes be where I need them? While I highly doubt Lego will ever bring them in lengths 4 and 6, it's just a matter of time for the odd lengths. They'll bring a HUGE revolution in technic building when the full set is there. I really do see it as being almost as big of a change as the switch to studless was. To all the guys on here building just for CaDA, I recommend to use those whenever you can. It will make your models something truly special, ahead of the game from TLG. It will also have an advantage for CaDA if you can't build their licensed models from Lego bricks. I think it's a real shame that some AFOLs are so purist that e.g. they'd rather build Bruno's Ferrari from Lego bricks, even if it means painting panels to do it. But you can't paint two 6L thin liftarms to look like a 6L flip flop beam

I think I saw some very early CaDA batteries (or some other Chinese maker, IDK) had the USB plug wired incorrectly; it would work with the supplied cable but not others. I'm sorry, can't give more details or confirm it. You're not meant to use a charger over 2 amps, but since the battery box only draws well under half an amp, really I think this means don't connect it to a modern smart charger which might (even briefly) try to throw up to 20v down the line. I would suggest to always leave them charging until they're done, as the BMS seems to equalize the cells at the end of the cycle. I have killed a couple of MouldKing batteries by unplugging them after half an hour or so. The second one I killed got pulled apart and the voltage across the two cells measured. They were a lot different, the battery can't sustain that more than a couple of times.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/cadabricks/files https://cn.doubleeagle-group.com/list.php?pid=6&ty=25&tty=19&page=7

No, they seem to throw sets out with/without license pretty much at random. I suspect that if the MOCer agrees easily at first time of asking they'll get a few beans thrown their way but if not, they just shrug and make the set without approval anyway.

Well, just to prove me wrong MouldKing did just release a GBC set (MouldKing 26004). Turns out it's an official licensed MOC, which is nice :) https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-25851/Berthil/rainbow-stepper/#details

This kills me with motorcycles. Most modern bikes have a 120/60-17 on the front (575mm diameter) and either a 180 or 200/55-17 on the rear (630 or 650mm diameter). I don't know about the new BMW tyres, but even if the width is different, the Ducati tyres have the same diameter, and it's not close IRL. Actually, it's just occurred that it would be very nearly in scale 1:7 to use the Ducati 94mm rear and 8422's 81.6mm front. Huge difference. 651.8/94.1 = 1:6.93 575.8/81.6 = 1:7.06 Shame the rims would be mismatched when they should be same diameter.

Looks like oh... about 6.4 studs diameter :) Might even look like a steering wheel, with a coat hanger piece attached. edit: ignore me, those holes aren't 2M apart, they're 1.5M apart.

As well as the wheels, lay a couple of other "hard stop" parts on your image, for example the wheel arches. I guess you'd use the ones from the Ferrari for this? They may already tell you whether the scale is 1:8 or 1:8.4. One problem you'll have with that choice of wheel and tyre: they're on old school rims without the offset of Land Rover or UCS wheels. Unless you do something clever with the steering, you'll have them flapping about in the wheel arches, and you'll maybe need limited steering for it not to rub. Of course, there's always virtual pivot steering to counteract this, but a) it's not realistic to this car even if the effect is as no dual ball joints and b) it's probably more effort than it's worth for a shelf queen.

Do those exist from Lego? I know them but only from alt bricks. Not sure how reliable that would be over extended play. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIoBZd2H-6s&t=04m20s

Making PDF instructions is quite satisfying work, I find. But it is work indeed, and the first set you make will cause you pain. It's also quite possible to take photos while you disassemble the model and reverse this as a guide to construction. But, it also takes time and patience. Last option: we all should just be happy that you shared this fun creation :)

It's pretty good! Unless they're doing structural duty, it would probably be just as good with more-common L motors. I built a little tracked thing and it really rips on two L motors at 7.2v (admittedly they're higher power Chinese motors).

How many batteries, how many motors? I'm thinking it's going to take a lot to make this move. Planetary hubs probably a good way to get the necessary reduction.

Shame to remove that and have the fake motor spin at a reduced speed. They could easily have used the new diff to get the speed back up, too.

Interesting how much processors come along with time. I assume yours has an i7? My new PC with most recent i5 is @2.5x as high-scoring. If that translates directly, it would still take like 10 hours, but it's a bit less unreasonable. It might even be better, since I guess your laptop throttled down at some point from heat. https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-i7-6820HQ-vs-Intel-i5-11400/2659vs4233

He has a slim condition and doesn't want people to comment about it. Said so in here somewhen. Don't forget to swap the steering wheel axle for a 5.5, or you're in Trouble if it falls out.