amorti

Looks good! It's the kind of part where you look and wonder why it doesn't already exist, so definitely legit.

No, I hadn't. Hope the real one looks nicer!

Oh no... I had no idea it's actually a thing. What an unfortunate creation. They're calling it Purosangue, but we must recall that if your blood gets too pure, you get a Hapsburg chin What happened at the rear end? Anyway its lines rather remind me of a Reliant Scimitar.

As servos are now over 70€ and not getting cheaper (unless Chinese servos become capable of multiple positions) I think PF will naturally reach end of life pretty soon. Better to focus on PU.

There's a lot to like, but the nose is wrong. It's needed to extend longer, and it's too tall and blunt.

Sounds good, I really hope you find a production partner! What's the projected selling price?

Lego doesn't deliver pieces to my country, unfortunately. Actually, those prices actually seem pretty reasonable to me, especially for the front shocks. Maybe I'll try to figure something out, like have the pieces delivered to my folks in UK.

It's nice, that. Stacked gearbox, like the first R1 introduced to the world, which allowed the engine to be shorter, the swingarm to be longer, and the handling to be betterer. Are we still waiting til March to get this as non-exclusive? I can't quite bring myself to give 200€ for this, but I want it just for the wheels and forks.

You have to keep in mind how old this set is. Hard to believe, but the 7L axle was first used in 2003, when this set was about to get its 10th birthday.

2S is correct. 7.2v nominal is right but it's normal for those to give 8.4v with a fresh charge. When you're running a properly fast model (My RC bike has been tested at around 20km/h) then you'll run out of range quick enough. BW3 has Bluetooth 5.0, which ought to be better. There are some German users who got pretty involved in changing the power cells. I think 10.4v LifePo was the easiest way to go, but you can also use a 3S LiPo with a voltage reducer.

You're in the wrong place, buddy. Come join us Darksiders over here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/435499980976191

It kinda stands to reason that Lego doesn't have this, since they don't make military jets. It's not really an answer to the question... but Cobi has really good pieces for this, because they do.

The new BMW rear shocks are supposed to be stronger than the traditional Lego shocks. Not sure they're available as spares yet though and it's a safe bet they'll be expensive. https://brickset.com/parts/design-79717

Wow! Quite apart from the functions, that's fast for a 5kg model using only Lego battery boxes.

When I say "it won't work" I don't mean whether the thing drives forwards and backwards or whether it steers the front wheel left and right, I've seen it do that. I mean whether it does both together at the same time, balancing like a real motorcycle (or balancing at all). I don't need to pay 25€ to learn that your 200 piece model can't do that, and nor does anyone else - if it worked, you'd have made a video. Mine works with a buwizz or a Chinese battery. No it won't work with a Lego battery, but I don't see it as an issue, many MOCs require buwizz. For 3€, you can prove it if you're a qualified builder You don't need to explain me hub centred steering. It looks like yours would work like a real one, but there's simply no way it can, because you're trying to force the bar left when you want to go left, which isn't how motorcycles works (see Afri's video above). Your only chance to prove me wrong is to post a video of your bike, running and steering, without falling over.

Yep, definitely getting time for a rechargeable option. No reason that couldn't replace the whole back cover, and have the charge port in the removable portion.

Well, I've seen it drive forwards and backwards and I've seen the steering mechanism, but I haven't seen it do both at the same time like this one

I'm thinking much like a trike IRL. 1) Avoid needing to steer, ever, especially hard, at all costs. 2) If that fails, wrestle the front wheel in the direction you want to go, and pray to all your favourite gods that it doesn't ignore you, nor flip. The trouble with this is the steering motor seems pretty violent, so there's a fair to good chance the bike will topple at the first steering input. Probably not. There's no kind of rake angle to make it want to self balance, and it's not fast enough even if there were. Even if it's not actually a motorcycle insofar as it can't drive like one, it's still a cool demonstration of a hubless wheel. @dickylaban thanks for sharing.

I've been meaning to try this. I think it wouldn't hurt to reduce the torque on that, as it's more than it needs and feels like you bend parts too easily from the input knob. BTW - who noticed how incredibly solid the steering is? You can twist that HOG input a long way winding tension into the axles, but no gears will slip - or if they do, it's way past my comfort level of torturing the bricks. Edit: yep, I'm happier with the 2nd axle function being regeared, too.

I did some minor mods, no parts required. Nothing to aesthetics, because to me this already looks plenty good enough for a technic set. It's all about the functions! The 5.5L axles on the 2nd axle stick out too far compared to those on axles 3&4. So at step 8 swap them for 4L axles with stop from bag 4, which are for the winch ratchet levers. You can then use the 5.5L axles on the ratchet handles in steps 623 and 630. There are two red 1L axle bushes in the spare parts to put on those so they look more like function parts. Swap the 16:20 gear pair on the crane rotation input so you can actually use that function without getting out of breath. They go on at steps 60 and 74. The 20t gear is close to hitting the 2*4 liftarm that raises the 2nd axle, but there's no actual collision. Same goes for the rear lifter input. At step 100 put the 20t not the 16t, then at step 104 put that 20t in, instead of the 16t. Again, it'll make the function actually usable. Yep, I found the same.

Anti-wheelie feature, not a bug

I saw this and was pretty disgusted by HdS's action in showing it. Not so long ago he had a moral position against showing copycats, maybe this doesn't count since it's red on red, maybe because it's only 95% stolen... Or maybe because bluebrixx is selling it and he'll get a commission. Also, the original from @brunojj1 most certainly does have door locks. On the flip side, those wheels, triangular panels, and mudguards honestly do look good. Ofc, they all didn't exist when the model was first designed.

My tip: if you want to make money from this, focus on making great C models. Even then, don't go in with an expectation that it will fund itself, nvm to get rich off it.

The hottest MOCs aren't necessarily the ones selling most, just the ones seeing most traffic. I made #2 on a moc that's sold <10 times and i was asking 3€ only. I wouldn't suggest to hold big hopes that MOCing can finance your hobby. If you want it to, you need to make very good C models (so that people only need to break one display set to build it) and ask 10-15€ for them (more for a 1:8 car). Only a handful of very good and very renowned MOCers can make sales at 20€+, and only for very good and very big MOCs. Apologies for plainness, but IMHO you won't see many (possibly not any) sales at 7$ for a 200 piece model.