amorti

@aFrInati0n appreciate you, brother! @JesseNight there are threads on mine and aFrI's profiles, you can also find more at my rebrickable, including some videos from aFrI which are just ridiculously cool. https://rebrickable.com/users/A_morti/mocs/

Ah, user error then. I am really only interested in Technic, and visit the forum on a favourite link directly to that sub forum.

This topic has been quite active already, but for sure there are active users who didn't find it yet. To avoid those guys having the impression that things were changed without their consultation or being informed, could admin consider adding an announcement linking to this thread? Or maybe a similar one with a more formalised poll, built from options or proposals which have arisen from the discussion this far?

Yes and it's valid now you mentioned it. The problem with mixing moc threads is that you'd have for example a moc which used a very specific part (I got this particular panel from a 2018 Sembo set, I never saw one like it again so good luck recreating this moc) in a board where we all want to present recreate-able work.

Option 2 for me; segregate between the forum just as it stands and other Bricks. That creates the least disruption for the old guard, whose opinions need to be respected here. That non-Lego forum should be separated loosely by theme rather than brand. There are many many brands once you start looking, and it often doesn't matter which is which if e.g. 80% uses GoBricks parts and has the same quality. But if I'm interested in Technic then I don't need Modulars in the same list of topics. MOCs can potentially be a separate section from those two, again divided loosely by theme. I think there are plenty of Brickers who are only buying sets for sets not to MOC. Let them more easily find what they're looking for.

It's a shame, after such a long time. Did TLG share which criteria were not met? Is it anything that could be caught up - and would the admin/mod/owner team of this forum want to do that?

Especially as sources tell me that CaDA is now shipping direct from warehouses in CZ and DE, so there's not even the delay of ordering from China anymore.

I've realised that of my 3* buwizz 2 units, one has a fault in the driver for socket 4 so that a servo twitches. I don't think the new firmware is at fault for that one, more likely there's some corrosion from it sitting, or maybe I burned it out at some point and didn't realise/ forgot. This is a real pity, since the buwizz 3 no longer works with brick controller 2.

I did, but I'm afraid I don't remember the recipe.

Also... While I understand it's not easy to fit a differential in such a compact model, it's really uncomfortable even just pushing it around the table without one. Nevermind what happens when you add a motor. It would be better with 1WD, than that.

So, I tested the CaDA springs on my kitchen scales. They peak at about 1150g of force before they bottom out. Lego springs are around 1250g. It's not a massive difference and the suspension still doesn't work right, but it does let it return just a little higher. That and a friction pin at the top of the shock to reduce slack (it barely rotates at all anyway), and the car will sit at a sensible ride height on the shelf. At least until the springs sag. Oh, and while I'm whining: the seats are held on by a single 1*2 plate, where there's space for a 1*4 plate without any further modification. Do yourself a favour and take two if those from your spares.

If you omit the few pieces intended to stop the front axles disappearing when you put the wheels on, then it is able to return. But only a little bit, because actually it turns out that the springs are too soft. Also, there's a dark grey 20t thin bevel gear that redirects power from the prop shaft to the engine. It's in a 12:20 ratio, but it should have been done with a 12:12, because the 20t gear is too big. It hits the ground first when you bounce the front suspension. I'm not sure if it clears the crankshaft though, with 12:12. So the motto for this build, particularly when you compare it to e.g. the Lego white Porsche, is that extra functions are great... When they actually function.

This evening I finished the build. It's a nice build! However... The steering needs modifying to work as a manual system (unsupported gear due to bad construction / more likely forced by it being able to modify to RC) The front suspension feels decently weighted, but has too much friction to return. This seems to be due to excess friction in the ball joint hubs, although there are also some friction pins in there which I'll try swapping out for non-friction. The fake motor works smoothly... If you switch the half-pins for Lego, otherwise the pistons go up but don't come back down. The CaDA pins have CaDA embossed on the part, which acts as a friction ridge. You could also smooth it with a sharp blade but obviously you shouldn't have to. I won't motorise this one. I learned from the red model team style Porsche (same author M. Schlegel but I'm afraid I forgot his username here, someone please tag him if you remember it?) that driving system brick models doesn't make a whole lot of sense. However, compared to the Porsche, this one has a really solid rear axle and I wouldn't foresee it having a problem with skipping gears at all.

I finally started on the larger scale Citroen rally car last-last night. Two nights of building have seen bags #1 almost completed. It's going well so far, but... The steering wheel connection is built to be easily removable to insert a servo. It leaves the idler gear very floppy to the point that the manual steering basically doesn't work. There's an easy fix by just omitting two parts but it might not be obvious to everyone. There are 10x bags numbered 1, then bags 2&3. Phase 1 is over half the total part count. It might as well be unnumbered at that point.

Could be a fun thing to add to an LPE engine.