amorti

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Upu5KeuL1LA

@2GodBDGlory thanks for the kind words! The main frame is mostly two of the largest frames 15*11, with a couple 5*7's and 5*3 dogbones for strength and rigidity. The "tank" is all about rigidity. It's remarkably sturdy. I look at it sometimes and want to fit some panels, but also I like it how it is. MK1 in @aFrInaTi0n's video used rubber bands inside the steering neck to pull the steering. It failed because rubber bands aren't strong enough so it doesn't want to steer, also because the steering mechanism could lock the fork stopping the bike self-correcting. So the powertrain and main frame were good but that steering mechanism had to go. I got as far as fitting an angular motor for the steering, and then @janssnet who presented the counter steering bike in Afri's link has given me some great tips to get the steering rebuilt with puhrods. Now we're just waiting for the promised update from buwizz before it can be tested! And before I forget: hat tip to Afri for talking me out of the "in grid" swingarm, into the bent liftarm design it has now.

@aFrInaTi0n if you want to make a fancy render, be my guest. Me and my Intel-graphics can just about struggle to a line drawing

I have a 1:5 RC motorcycle on the bench, but it needs proper support of 2 buggy motors and support of the angular servos before I can try it out. Fingers crossed that the update really happens this time!

I saw that Eg flat panels with a width of 5 are now 3 studs in the middle. Can give some interesting solutions such as putting flip flop beams along the edge! Not to mention that's 7 motors on one battery box?

Bw2 can provide less current than bw3. In fact it can provide less current than various Chinese battery boxes which cost 1/10 the price, but that's another story. Bw2 limits power in a similar way to bw3, but then bw2 never claimed to handle two buggy motors so I just don't put two on there. I can add steps to reduce the acceleration power, but if that's necessary for the hardware not to crash (literally crash) then it should be handled by firmware, not software. I'm trying to play with a toy, not be a beta tester and software programmer. Bad things happen if your battery goes into shutdown on a motorcycle model, as it'll freewheel until it hits something.

@howitzer scam may be strong, but maybe not. The big claims for bw3, with which it was advertised, were that it could power 2 buggy motors without shutting down and had increased range due to Bluetooth 5. Neither of those work. In the meantime the claim about buggy motors has been taken down, but there's been no word about that from the makers to those of us who bought that claim. The claim about up to 100m range is still on the site, but the use of "Bluetooth 5" taken down. It's been shown in this thread that the bt5 protocol doesn't work, and this sounds right to me because it'll definitely lose signal before that IME. So how should it have that range? Bt4 only claims 60m, you'd need bt5 for more. Again, no word from the makers to those of us who bought that claim, I even bought a new phone to take advantage of the functionality. It is more powerful than the old one though, for sure. So it'll get out of range quicker. When it does lose signal, it has no failsafe so if you had the pedal down, your model is going to continue until it hits something. These are my 3 issues with it. Two false claims and one really dumb design choice.

Guys, it's been a year. A year where everyone of us who spent like 300€ (I can't even remember the amount I paid now) on a bw3 with the promise of it powering two buggy motors has been disappointed. I'm the biggest idiot, I even bought a new phone with Bluetooth 5.0 to get the extra range, that didn't work out well. My phone actually put the buwizz app to deep sleep last week, after 6 months non use. I quit using because it keeps launching 300€ at a kerb without fail safe Look at the brick controller 2 thread. @imurvai fixes bugs and adds features after a week or so, he's doing this as a hobby and not selling any very expensive batteries by it. Do better, buwizz.

It takes about 600g to compress each old type soft spring. Bit less for the Ducati forks but they are too flexible to be useful. So your bike would have to weigh over a kilogram ON THE FRONT WHEEL to make use of the forks. A buwizz bike with two buggy motors comes in at a bit under a kilogram total, ie. on both wheels. If a Lego RC bike would weigh a kg on the front wheel, we're probably talking 2.5kg total - it wouldn't be drivable, it would be too heavy to get out of its own way. I guess the ideal would be to find some even softer springs for the old type legs.

@aFrInaTi0n I never really noticed, but even with the camera hanging out the front of the bike, it is true that the forks still hardly move. Maybe it would be smarter to use a solid fork.

Well, Bruno has even mentioned composite gears on the thread. So I think metal joints and maybe the odd carbon axle is safe to hope for.

In fact I don't mind the smaller instruction books. I find the big ones give the bindings a harder time and then they don't fold flat nicely after.

@brunojj1 it looks amazing, and I am very keen to see all the new constructions you've dreamed up

@brunojj1 the cat is out of the bag!

Thank you @imurvai

Is the triangle panel by the headlight new?

You won't see acceptance of MK here. Keep in mind there are active members who've had designs stolen by them.

Well, you're simply wrong. Go get some of those motors and try it.

@gyenesvi : @brunojj1's red supercar is a proper 1:8, and it drives at a respectable speed with 2* Cada L motors at 7.2v. Ask yourself how many Lego L motors that would take.

If Cada is the first with proper proportional servos, the plugs won't matter as we'll throw all our old stuff out! Stacked plugs are cool, but not really a deal breaker for me. If you can instead have one motor with the power of two, you don't need to stack anything.

As above - changing from an even to an odd width chassis is never as simple as you might think.

It'll bend in the middle. The new red half pins with friction might help, but it's still janky.

You're going to need a stronger gear rack than that.

The modern wishbones are 6 studs long where the old one were 6.5 long. So the wheels are automatically 0.5 closer by changing the wishbones. This frees you from the old school wheel clips, but unfortunately also from the awesome old CV joints.

You'll find reviews with bias from anybody on YouTube who is an affiliate or seller. Also from anyone who has had enough of Lego pricing, or the other way around is a purist for Lego. Unbiased is very difficult to find, though! For my part... Cada is cheaper than Lego. Cada is more aimed at adults in terms of the instructions' difficulty. Cada parts aren't as good as Lego, especially the pins. They're improving though. Your best chance is to form your own opinion by building the sets you have handy.