Carsten Svendsen

I will construct this sometime this weekend

Akiyuki has a ton of mechanism all of which are impressive. What partly makes this happen is that he uses a few yellow colors but in very select places while using DBG for the big levers and such. I am in the process of making a machine that is very complex, but I don't know which parts should be yellow and DBG. The whole thing is mostly black at the moment. So what I want to know is what warrants a part or function to be yellow and not overdoing it.

Interesting, that's pretty much what I was looking for I guess. Some of these things I hadn't thought of so it's really good to have a reference point when I'm planning what to swap out.

No that's not what I'm interested in and I have seen the thread you mention. I couldn't care less about weight/color ratio. As for the topic at hand, I suppose that you are all correct, but it's more complicated than that. One function can't simply be all one color as that would be too extreme. I'll give you one example: Take a look at Akiyukis Ball Factory. The 5x3 bent liftarm is yellow while the levers operating it are all black including the counterweight. When designing something like this from scratch it's not obvious which parts should stand out. Same with the pickup thing in the same picture, it's all black/LBG which seems fine, but the axles picking it up could have been yellow as well (probably didn't exist then), but you get my point. Is it the ultimate function that needs to stand out, or is it the part that operates it. There's a perfect example of this somewhere else in the ball factory: As you can see here, the ultimate function (teeth moving the baskets) is all black and there's only a few yellow pieces which operates the function. This is opposite from the previous case where it was the function that was yellow and the levers were black. However, as a whole whatever he's done seems to look extremely pleasing and I would just like some more in-depth reasoning to what needs to stand out.

Not only are you great at building and aestethic skills, you are also a graphics designer and an electronics expert. Being a master of all trades must be great

This is awesome, I loved to play generals and every other C&C game - with the exception of RA3 and newer titles. You have really done an outstanding job of recreating the looks and feel of the game. Although, I think china is very much too dark green. You would be better off to use olive/yellowish green colors but I'm no system builder so what do I know...

This is what I was waiting for when I first saw your MOC. Incredible piece of work, integration system with technic and SNOT techniques as well, something I find very difficult.

It looks good, but I wish your pictures were bigger because I can barely see anything.

Remember that the reason bushes still exist by them selves and as a section of other parts is becuase the 24z gear will between 3 studs then.

If you can make it, go for it, but I have my doubts. You will need a massive amount of LEGO and you will need a massive amount of NXT's, or you control it all from a pi or something instead. In any case, you will need a three-axis robotic arm with a vacuum to pick parts, and another arm for putting them in. I'm not sure if you fully understand the complexity a project like this takes. To program it, you would have to load the digital file into your program and have an AI figure out in which order to put it all together. Something not even LDD or any other automatic instruction creator can do properly. You would have to design your own software essentially. Maybe even your very own firmware for the NXT's if you go that route. An easier option would be to manually program XYZ cordinated for every single piece, but that would get tedious very quickly. Good luck

I honestly don't see the problem. The photos fits nicely on a 1920x1080 monitor which every living individual on this planet should have as minimum at this stage in time. Edit: I realized that I can click on the image which brings me to the host which shows me the original file size which is indeed, very much too big to fit on a screen. However, that doesn't matter as the forum software obviously downscales it anyway.

I'm sure all of you have seen Akiyuki's train design by now, and I am building something that requires a similar spring system but it needs to be able to be affected from another function. Below is a crude representation of what I want to achieve. Note that all the things are in a fixed position except for the outside force Is this even possible? I don't care about the initial test setup, I will modify it to suit my build anyway, but I just need the basic how-to version. Thank you for your time. Edit: Nevermind, it's not gonna work anyway, I'll have to figure out something else.

I'm not a fan of the wheel arches. You might have to redesign that whole panel on the front so that it gives a more natural curvature to help the look of the 19L flexaxle. Also, I cannot testbuild it if you aren't going to fix the bodywork to anything. Thirdly, having a removeable bodywork that would come off in just a few seperate pieces would be cool, but not a requirement.

Oh I see how you want to fix it. Why not just use the 4x4 bent liftarms then? Not steep enough or? Also, you would need to fix down those "new simple parts fix" because it's still pivoting.

I recently saw that MattL600 had built a battery drill, and I figured that I could do better so I gave it a shot. Turns out that I couldn't do it better, in a physical resemblance to the real thing, but I got all the functions crammed into it. I still only have the parts from all three sets that I mentioned in my other recent post, which was 42049, 42055, 42064 I would like to show the build progress and internals of the drill along with what I've learned throughout this project. I started by building the battery click function because if I couldn't get that to work I might as well not build it at all. As I didn't have any springs I had to think of something else, and I quickly discovered that the axles flex quite a bit longways, so that is how the clicky works. (Also see video at 2:10) Next up was the handle for the drill. I quickly discovered that the wire for the motor was not at all long enough to reach into the actual housing of the drill. If I had a PF switch I would have done that and that would also have saved me from a lot of hassle. I could have put a switch for the trigger if I had one, but I had to use a transmission ring for the trigger instead, as I wouldn't settle for the switch on the battery. After that was done, I started building the drill it self starting from the front end of it. I wanted it to have a clutch as the real thing - though fixed amount, not adjustable. If you watched the video you'll know that the gears inside burn out before the clutch. I reckon 1 clutch gear would've been enough but it didn't seem like it at the time so that's why I put 2 in there. Sadly, in order to get the selector switch (turntable) working properly, I had to chip away the small taps on the transmission ring for smooth switching. I know that there are 3l joiners made specifically for that so if I had all my LEGO I would just have used one of those instead. Knowing that, it should settle down all of you purists out there. This is also the part where I decided to put the speed switch as I figured that that's where there would be the most room for it. (sorry potato quality, but this is a screenshot from a video I made to my dad of progress. I don't have a picture otherwise) Coming up with a solution for the forward/reverse switch was not an easy task. I knew that I wanted levers like in the pictures above but getting the footprint down to just 1x2L was quite difficult. Also, nothing inside the housing is symmetrical so bracing everything properly became quite a task as well. I realized that in order to get room for the trigger I had to cut down the forward/reverse bracing as well. Up next was the final compartment, which proved to be the most difficult so far since I had to start/stop the drill with a transmission ring instead of a switch. And again, I had no spring so I had to use the tension of LEGO it self. The solution is simple but finding it was the hard part. In case you're wondering, the red and yellow axles were only there to remember myself as to where I should put my mechanical bracing to the rest of the drill. And that's pretty much it. I had some troubleshooting to do as well as one of the gears kept popping out. Luckily it was one of the "easy" ones to access. I ended up putting a triangle beam on top of it to keep it there. The drill in its full glory... or like, something anyway It holds its own weight all right, though the it's only held up by the 2 blue pins on the hanger. I know that it's not the coolest or most outstanding moc ever made, but I think it's a good start anyway. I might just make another drill in the future. One thing I learned from this project is to think outside of the box when the selection of certain parts is quite limited. For instance, there's only 2 each of these parts: I tend to use the grey one a lot, so it's nice to get out of the comfort zone for a change. I also found the new 3L pin/axle combo and the pin on a bushing amazingly useful. I've been needing those parts for so many years and they are finally here. One other thing I learned was how to make limited spring like action with no springs. I also enhanced my skills in levers acting with each other (thinking of transmissions) That's pretty much it, thanks for watching. I won't take it apart for now as if there's something you would like to know, I can just disassemble it and show you on demand.

@Offroadcreat1ons The wing door seems to work alright, but remember that there is a limited area that you can use due to the wheels when turned. I know it's not the right wheel but the diameter is the same as the one you're designing for. Also, the amount it opens is determined by the two ½x2L beams as they touch each other when the door is opened (You can get a gist of that in the gif below) @TechnicRCRacer The spoiler is a different story. Either a 4-point system won't work or you will have to redesign it. I needed to put a spacer in with the LA at the bottom so that it wouldn't slide on the axle. Otherwise it's quite solid, it looks weak but it's not. First is a picture of the superpositions. Note that the LA is longer than the fixings and will extend backwards if raised too much. This causes the 12t bevel gear to catch on the black rack at the bottom.

I wasn't trying to put more exposure, I was merely stating the fact that I was a bit disappointed with the community. I'm not that proud of the outer aesthetics of the drill, what I really wanted people to be impressed about was the mechanical aspect of it. That is why I posted LDD pictures of the inner workings. Sure it looks simple but there was a lot of space restrictions and most functions - especially the battery was quite ingenious if I say so my self.

What annoys me the most is when you post a MOC that you've spent many hours and days on and the responses are nearly non-existent. Take for instance my battery drill. I had limited parts selection and I made it work anyway, though with a bit of a clunky design, and guess how many people posted a response? 1. Just one person. Surely it's not the greatest MOC out there, but I've seen MOCs that look like something pulled out of a 3 year olds bedroom and they get lots and lots of responses. I don't care if people just write "cool, seen it" or something similar but a little recognition should be deserved, no matter who you are or what you built. Usually when I see a MOC with near to no responses, it's usually not that great, and so I typically give some constructive feedback while trying not to sound too negative. I can handle big criticism, but I'm different and I'm sure that other people, especially ones like OP, aren't as fortunate.

Which software did you use to make the instructions? I kinda want to make some too in the future. I only have enough parts to make one set of wheels for your MOC, and I'm afraid you will have to work a bit more on this. Putting that pin with pinhole into that rim, is VERY difficult (unless you're me), and so I would call this an illegal technique. The red 2L axles that I've highlighted will fall out on their own, I replaced them with 1½L pins, however this is rather flimsy The connection of the two parts with mickey mouse elements is very weak The bevel gears do not mesh together properly, as the construction is far from sturdy enough. Furthermore, it is impossible to connect ½ a bevel with another in a straight line. Even with two ½ bevel gears it's still far from reliable And even if it was sturdy enough and held together very well, it wouldn't matter anyway as the sprocket gear just slips on the threads The only positive thing is that the thread is being held in place properly and doesn't fall off. It is rather jerky though, you will need a very solid drivetrain to drive these. So yeah, I have not built any more, as I suspect you might want to fix this first, besides I only have enough parts for just one set of wheels. Good luck!

Normally I don't care about car MOC's but in this case, I am willing to do an exception. I love the fact that you can take it apart in modules so easily, it makes troubleshooting so much easier. I also like the idea of solving difficult angles with a steering wheel link, that never occured to me. Maybe because I don't own a 1L steering bar but still I don't care much for gearboxes in general. The really cool thing about this model is one switch for putting it in manual/motorised mode, and I cannot comprehend how that is possible with just one transmission ring. Please explain? I don't need to mention the Aesthetics as that is clearly what kept me reading through the post in the first place. 4000 parts, not bad, I'd buy that if it was a set.

@Aventador2004 Bevel and spur gears does ring a bell, however, I also have knob and crown gears in there. @BrickbyBrickTechnic Under normal circumstances I would have already taken the CLAAS model completely apart when I went looking for parts in it the 3rd time. However, I am planning on building an even bigger version of this with bigger wheels so I kept it mostly assembled so that I can reference it for functions and astethics later on. @JonathanM I actually bought about half of what you see back when I lived in Denmark from Amazon.co.uk. I spent an eternity looking for something like the sistema system as my previous sorting was done with random size boxes and buckets from marmelade and ice cream. It was horrible. In an ideal world, I would also sort all of my crossblocks and connectors by type, however with 14 different types of each category, that would get out of control with the amount of boxes needed. I could have a drawer system, but then all of the drawers would be hanging all the time anyway and it cleaning up would become even more tedious. I used to have all varieties and colors of number 2,3,4 and fives in the same 5L box as they were small enough to tell apart easily on the go. I just found it hard to grab one axle as it would always sink to the bottom with my weight on top. Same goes for my bent liftarms. I like the system I have now, I might have to upgrade my sorting in the future again as I get more LEGO.

I have moved quite a few times recently and only just now got a proper work area with lots of room. I used to buy almost every Technic set every year, however, I've been slacking off quite a bit for the past few years - since 2013 to be exact, with only 3 purchases since then, because of my life (I was short on money from 2013 and moved to New Zealand 2016 and it's been a wild ride during the past few years). Anyway, here are some pictures of my collection if you would like to see what kind of accumulation can be acquired over 20 years (I got my first LEGO set in 1998 which was 8482 Cybermaster) Here on the left side of the table, we've got all of the essential liftarms and pins On the right hand side of the table, we've got all of the axles, you could ever want - except 3 and 5 with stop, I really need to get some more... In the back there are boxes of panels, technic bricks, flexy stuff, various pieces and other essentials. In front of that is my main parts assortment. Most drawers hold 2 spaces while the bottom three ones are fully occupied by one type. Next to that are my boxes with gears - gears for going around cornes in one, and gears for going in a straight line in the other. In the assortment boxes, I've got black and grey bricks and also various pieces. My main drawers here contain all of my straight liftarms as well as connectors and crossblocks. Here on the floor I've got some yellow pieces that I use once in a while, as well as a bucket of small wheels that I dig through more often than you would think. I've also got a few big LEGO set boxes filled with bigger wheels stashed away somewhere but I rarely need those which is why they're not under the table. The two boxes under the table contain non-essential LEGO pieces that comes in handy once in a while. Note worthy mentions are: Engine parts Bionicle parts Stickers and stickered parts wheel hubs colored bricks shovels other colors of LEGO like orange, blue and green Older style panels Spare pins and old grey parts That's basically it, I've got so much that I can build anything I want - at least that's what I tell my self. Realistically, I haven't even finished one MOC for like 10 years. But I try and that's the important part. Right now I'm building something that attaches to a tractor, and it's almost done. You won't see it however until I've build the tractor too.

The joint is fine, it might be a bit jerky though. Universal joints have a wide range of movement.

I added another two bionicle pieces as it looked rather funny otherwise. Also the outer two panels are only fixed on a rotating hinge. You would have to fix that down properly somehow I didn't have a red panel in 3x11 so a substitute was required. That panel only comes in 1 set and that was way back in 2014 As for the axle units, they are good, no issues here, steering and suspension works flawlessly.

It's not like I knew that yesterday when he just posted the bodywork today. Do you think I can see into the future?