Carsten Svendsen

Eurobricks Knights
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    594
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About Carsten Svendsen

  • Birthday 06/21/1991

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    Kverneland FastBale

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/user/Magarinefabrik

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Interests
    LEGO (duh), Computer/computer games, Hardware and dolphins
    And I'm an electrician

Extra

  • Country
    New Zealand
  • Special Tags 1
    https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/style_images/tags/ldraw_builder.gif
  • Special Tags 2
    https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technicgear2.png

Recent Profile Visitors

2372 profile views
  1. Sigh, how I wish Sergio didn't die prematurely. And no source code released either....
  2. And what have you tried so far? We're not just going to make your program for you Have a look here for code block functions: https://racingbrick.com/powered-up-code-block-guide-full/
  3. I thought the film would be useless if you took it out of it's casing in the light? Decent result though.
  4. Depends what you're doing. The bars do fit in the 2 outer holes of the thread, but with no clutch power what so ever. They do not stick. In the middle hole however, it does stay, but I wouldn't call it a reliable connection. Especially since if you're planning to use it on gears like an actual chain, then the bar won't stay in either.
  5. 8465 is studded and a small front axle. But if you need it to FWD then maybe look at 8880 Regardless, you're going to have to use quite some technic parts for the actual wishbones, and studded for the frame.
  6. That'll work fine as long as it's the beveled turntable, not the new one just being produced now.
  7. Without an image of your current build, it's going to be nearly impossible to come up with ideas. Maybe some of my own previous designs can be an inspiration?
  8. Clearly, you've got a very limited amount of parts. Wishbone suspension and standard axles on CV-joints would do the trick much better. And springs. If you don't have any of that, then sure, you can use gears, but you also need a differential in the middle so that the vehicle can turn properly without skidding.
  9. Carsten Svendsen

    Help required for SNOT in a tight-ish space

    Hello, I'm building a technic model at the moment and I just need a way to fill an 11,5 x 11,5 stud wide space on its own. Don't worry about mounting options, I'll figure that out. I initially thought of using plates and tiles but it looks bad if it's higher than the main surface, so it could only be 2 plates thick. If not for the weird size it would be a breeze to figure this out. Ideally I'd like to continue the yellow trim around the edge. The main surfaces are floating and will be moving around slightly, so this filler block cannot be attached to them.
  10. Hello, I'm having issues again. I need a solution to transfer circular motion around corners. For the top motors, this is easy, just a hard linkage. For the bottom two motors, they need to be connected to each other as well to the top ones. It is to synchronise the motors so that they all run at the same speed constantly. I thought maybe convert to piston movement and then a corner piece but I think that would cause too much slack and wouldn't work anyway. Then I thought about creating a fork that kind of slides back and forth, but it wouldn't ever be locked in place to the current rotation.
  11. Hello again, I'm still struggling with this stupid app. All I want is to start/stop motors with a button and control the speed with a slider. It shouldn't be that hard. So right now in the program below, when I start the program, the motors spin initially about one or two rotations which is annoying and I wish I could disable but anyway, I start the motors with the button and I can control the speed forward and reverse. So that's good, but when I press the button again to stop the motors, they just keep going. I can only stop the motors when the switch is on and turn the slider to neutral. How do I fix this? Also, the speed dial doesn't work, it only displays zero. I'd like that to work as well.
  12. Why did I never think of that? That is a great idea for the small stuff. I have so many half boxes just taking up lots of space for spare parts as well.
  13. I have these from before when my lighting was bad. Now it is not required, but they give great light output. I put them behind the desk https://www.bunnings.co.nz/arlec-2-x-20w-3200lm-led-worklight-with-tripod_p0206011
  14. I have recently moved and am finally getting my setup all completed. All I am missing is just some labeling tape for the organising drawers. See spoiler for more details I have an entire A4 piece of paper with stuff I want to modify on my fastbale, so don't stay tuned because that is going to take a while to do. I might do a new thread of the progress. But first I have to finish the other project that was supposed to be a quick and easy one and, well, nothing's ever easy is it?
  15. I just remembered a thought I had about half pins. Why are the 1½ pins called ¼ pins and the 1¼ pins called ½ pins? It is so confusing sometimes. Anyway, my thought was that the half pins (¼ length) seems to hold half liftarms better and way more stable because of the friction. If using ¼ pins (½ length), the half liftarms wobble around a lot. But is this considered bad technique?