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Showing results for tags 'power functions'.
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Hi, My latest project is not a Lego creation but an Android app that lets you control the SBrick with any Android-compatible game controller. Here is a short demo video on it: Please note that it's not available yet since it's still in WIP. Current features: - Works on Android 4.3+ devices supporting bluetooth low energy profile. - Basically works with any type of Android-compatible game controllers (I'm using a cheap one from DX). Leftovers until I release the first test version: - Profile editor is not yet finished. - Stability issues. - Minor UI updates. Any comments or suggestions are welcome :)
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I got this idea a while ago, when I first got Sbricks. Why not make modular, expendable system of axles and chassis pieces in order to create a system for offroad truck construction. Here is what I sketched up in LDD. First we have a basic axle. It uses 2 XL motors for drive, independet suspension and steering with servo Because we need a minimum of 2 axles, I designed a double chassis holder with two battery boxes: If we combine 2 axles with the double battery holder, we get the most basic configuration, a 4x4x4: In order to expand on the system I designed a single battery chassis extension: Finally we can combine the three basic modules into a 6x6x6: Or even a 10x10x10: In theory there is no limit how far you can go, but I think anything over 12x12 might cause too much strain on the chassis. Important details: - Axles are designed for Claas wheels, which are not in LDD, hence the wheels above may look small - Each axle can use any kind of a combiantion of number of springs and hardnesses for best flexibility and weight support - Each axle is meant to also house and S brick, which allows you fine steering angle control in order to support any kind of configuration or steering mode (only front, only rear, all wheel steering, crab mode) - For now this is still a concept, so I will relase the LDD file once I build, test and polish the concept
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I've been modifying my 42039 (24 hrs racecar) to be remote controlled with an sbrick and was wondering if the power functions light unit will work for that set? I don't have any of them, so I'm not sure if the wires are long enough to reach both light sections in the front (or two sets of PF lights one front and back). Thanks in advance! P.S. I just got my 1st sbrick last week and they are amazing. Now I want another.
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Hello Eurobrickers! Today I would like to show you my new MOC - a bulldozer. This is not a specific bulldozer model, although I watched little a Caterpillar D9T. A blade and a ripper are full remote controlled, does it mean, can be raised, lowered and tilting. Dimensions: -length: 43 cm, -width: 26 cm, -height: 20 cm, -weight: 1738 grams. Power Functions: drive and steering – 2 PF L motors, blade can be raised, lowered and tilting by 2 PF M motors, ripper can be raised, lowered and tilting by 2 PF M motors, 1 x PF extension wire 20 cm, 1 x PF small battery box, 3 x PF IR receiver, 3 x PF IR remote control. Some pictures, rest are available at the public galleries Brickshelf gallery Bricksafe gallery Youtube video
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I decided to open a seperate topic for this beast. Inspired by Letsbuild's idea to crawlify a Lego set, i decided to go full crazy and try to upgrade the biggest, heaviest and most orange set to date, Porsche 911 GT3 RS. First thing I built was the front axle, which uses the H frame as a placeholder for bewel gear, so there it no possible way of them to slip: Those with sharp eyes may notice the gears are not aligned, this was done in LDD development mode, more info soon The drive than goes directly to portal hubs with 1:3 gear ratio, giving the model 1:5 gear ratio on each wheel. Front axle also has a servo motor which steers the wheels and powers the Porsche's original steering wheel via a ball joint Rear axle powers the Porsche's gearbox via a couple of clutch gears in order to allow different motor speeds when steering or skid steering - Yes, this 4 kilogram heavy model can even skid steer thanks to its independent motor control. Here is the end result As with the original set, I kept the rear axle 2 studs wider than the front: For suspension I used 4 hard springs, which are hald compressed thanks to the model's immense weight. Due to the porsche's wide chassis springs are quite far apart, so the flex angle is not really big, but on the other hand that makes the model much more stable. Performance wise the crawler works very good, despite its massive weight, so far I had no broke U joints or gears and it has enough torque to skid its wheels on hard surface. Expect more pictures soon and a video soon.
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Im new to this forum so hi everyone ;) i have fun with PF from few months, and i want to buy a li-po and customize it to lego, i got two of real power hungry buggy motors, and i want to feed em' as much as i can :D I only need to know which voltage is maximum for motors, and for reciever, i have maken a research across internet, and ive heard that motors can handle max 16volts , and reciever just 9 volts, but ive heard too that motors can handle max 12 volts and that reciever too, on many forums i have read different numbers, so i have to ask here :) i have found light and small 14,8 volt li po 850 mah, in good price and i like it, but i dont want to burn my buggy motors and rest of PF, im wondering too about rc unit voltage, if it have 6 aa 1,5v bateries fully charged, it could generate 9v as normal pf battery box but when i compared them, rc unit is way better, and buggy motors are way faster, i hope that someone can help me :)
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I got some rubber tracks from BrickLink here the other day, and to my pleasant surprise they fitted nicely over the Wheel 30.4mm D. x 20mm ! As I am waiting for the last parts for my Container Stacker MOC, I thought I'd make something else in the meantime, and decided to try to make something like a smaller edition of the 8043 B-model tracked loader, using these new rubber tracks. Although it is somewhat similar to the aforementioned 8043 B-model, it is built from the bottom up using just my imagination, in the course of a couple of days. (My girlfriend is celebrating easter abroad with her family, so I have plenty of time to be creative ) This is the first time I've used studded construction in a MOC since I came out of my dark ages (Albeit just in the lower chassis), and a lot of memories came back to me from doing that! Anyway; this is the result: The yellow bucket is from my old 8862 Backhoe from way back in the day. Both the driving and the other functions are quite quick, and a lot of fun to play with. It uses PF-M motors for all four functions, and PF LED lights for playing at night when the power is out, The construction is very sturdy, if you for instance push down on the bucket, the mini LA wil start to slip before the rest will start to wobble or bend noticably. The back end comes off easily, and hides a lot of the wiring. The battery box can be removed after pulling out two Axle 4 with stop from below. I "cheated" a little with the digger apparatus, by making the entire arm a sort of four bar linkage (or whatever it's called), so the geometry (and thereby the bucket) stays the same for the entire travel of the LAs. This is probably not very true to real life, but it is a lot easier to create. When I made my Swingloader, I think 50 % of the time I used building that thing, was figuring out a good linkage for the tipping function. As you can see, the tipping works really well. A view from the bottom. You can see the axles for removing the battery box, as well as the gear train. Different speeds can be achieved by using different gear ratios. I spent a couple of hours yesterday to build the entire model in LDD, and it turned out 99,9% accurate, I used "illegal" building techniques on two occasions. One you can see in the above two pictures (attachment of the rear mudguards. The other is where the IR Receivers are attached (I had to use one of these in LDD, instead of one ot these , which is used in the real life model. If anyoneone wants to build this, just shoot me a PM with your e-mail, and I will send you the .lxf file. The model has just over 600 pieces. And here is a video of it in action:
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I want to know where to buy the type of wire Lego uses in PF parts, I can only find grey IDC ribbon cable (see below). I need it to be black to replace some worn out wire on some of my PF parts. Has anyone ever found a matching type of wire/cable? Thanks .
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The Lost Tomb, is one of my latest creations. Our adventurer, Indiana Jones, descovers the lost tomb of the Islanders' King. I hope you like my creation, and I am open for your comments! Take a close look at the video that follows; by George Patelis, on Flickr The Lost Tomb is Revealed by George Patelis, on Flickr You can find more photos at my Flickr Account
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This is my entry to the Rebrick BMW Motorrad competition. Its goal is to balance both performance and sustainability to show that high-performance vehicles have a future in a world concerned with emissions and fuel consumption. I used double wheels on both the front and rear in order to make this model driveable. The wheels are made from 36 chain links bent "the wrong way" - they are around 16cm (20 studs) in diameter. The whole model is about 55 studs long and 13 wide. The drivetrain consists of a PF Large motor geared 1:1 and a PF XL motor geared 5:3. They are hard coupled - yes, I know this is frowned upon but it provides a compact solution, and the load on the motors is no different to driving a car up a hill. The motors are mounted inside the rear wheels to save space and simplify the drivetrain. The motors are connected to an IR receiver which is mounted inside the main body. The battery pack is positioned at the very bottom to lower the center of gravity and increase stability. There is a shaft connecting a 4-cylinder piston engine to the wheels. This piston engine runs on E85 bioethanol which is derived from plants. This means it is renewable and carbon-neutral - the carbon dioxide released when burning it is compensated for by the plants used to make them photosynthesising. It also has a higher octane rating than gasoline, meaning it can actually provide better performance than the fuel it replaces. E85 biofuel engines already exist - all recent Koenigsegg vehicles are capable of running on both gasoline and E85, and these engines can produce up to 1 megawatt from a 5-litre V8. I believe biofuel is the future for high-performance vehicle manufacturers such as BMW. The front suspension uses a Duolever setup where the front fork is suspended on two parallel wishbones. The front wheel is able to move up and down and steer, while having the shock absorbers mounted on the wishbones rather than as part of the forks. A steering linkage allows a PF Medium motor to control the front wheel. The rear suspension uses a similar system called Paralever. It is essentially one half of a car independent suspension, complete with universal joints. It is sturdy and keeps the rear wheel's motion vertical when the suspension compresses. The front and rear wheel arches use the bucket wheel parts from 42055 as an internal structure. I used pneumatic hoses as part of the structure to give the flared appearance of the rear arch. greenshotcertificity.com Every part of the motorbike is designed with the BMW brand in mind (honest, it's nothing to do with the lack of turn signals ). The panelling (especially the side intake) is inspired by the BMW i8, a hybrid supercar by BMW. The suspension matches the types used on current BMW motorbikes, and inline-4 engines are commonly used on both their bikes and passenger cars. Here's a video showing the bike's drifting and burnout capabilities. Music is composed by me. Enjoy!
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Hi everyone, Two little question regarding Power Functions: 1. Is it possible to combine 2 L-motors with 2 XL-motors at the same time, working on the same gear of a car (2,0-2,5 kg) or will only motors of one type work? 2. How many M-, L- and XL-motors can be used on a single 8887 rechargable battery box (to move the same car as above) at the same time? Thank you in advance! xXFoxhound90
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Thought the EB Technic community might appreciate this remake of the 2001 Bionicle set I built for a contest on another forum. It features the same RC tracked drive and swiping claws as the original (this time powered by Power Functions elements, rather than a giant RC brick) plus light-up eyes via PF lights. https://youtu.be/Q76HBzIxZ0E (Apologies if this belongs in the Action Figures subforum - I thought it was probably a better fit for the Technic forum?)
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One of my more popular MOCs from Rebrickable: Compact Motorized Compressor with Auto-valve Link. Features: Air tank Automatic pressure switch M motor and 6L mini pump compressor Very compact 15 x 11 x 7 stud size Easy removal of battery box This compressor uses 1x 6L mini pneumatic pump but can easily be modified for two pumps, the automatic cut-off pressure can also be adjusted by changing the strength of the rubber bands attached to the pneumatic cylinder. Full gallery, 3D file, and PDF Instructions available on Bricksafe. Some photos: Auto-valve: The compressor working very fast:
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[GBW] Part 1: "The Power of the People" The Plantasea forces recruit men from all over the country in order to man all military units and reserves. The recent attack on Filace means only one thing: War is inevitable! [MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr The MOC: MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr As a small extra, the MOC features Power Function lighting. The following pic was taken in total darkness with just the power fuctions lights on. [MOC] The Main Gate [GBW] by BoBKiD206, on Flickr
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Hello fellow builders! I felt that it was finally time to share with you all something that I've been working on/ playing with for a while now: My L-Motor Frame. L-Motor Block Types by Nick Jackson, on Flickr The concept for this project was to create a stable platform on which (primarily) steam engines could be produced with less motor& cable obstructions. L-Motor Block Types by Nick Jackson, on Flickr This would then allow the engine's body to be built relatively free of electrical components, or crammed with them in the case of tank engines. L-Motor Block Variants by Nick Jackson, on Flickr I think that the most interesting part of the frame is the fact that it is easily modifiable, and can essentially go from 2 to 7 axles! At the time of writing this however, I've only dared to go up to 4 axles for a related project. L-Motor Block Variants (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Hopefully these frames and their different gear ratios will inspire you to make a steam engine! Although, there are a great many European engines that are not steam, but employ connecting rods for their drive wheels. L-Frame with Medium-Large wheels by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Lastly, here are some alternative wheel sizes that you may be interested in. These are made possible by the work of BigBen Bricks and @Shupp. The smallest feasible size would be the Medium-Large drivers by Shupp. These would need a bit of reworking from a standard L-Frame in order to clear switches and such. New Wheels!!! (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Here, a set of XL wheels from BigBen fit nicely on a standard frame. L-Frame with XXL wheels by Nick Jackson, on Flickr And, by upgrading to the longer frame size, you could even accommodate 6 of Shupp's XXL wheels! Hopefully this post will benefit everyone, but moreso people who've had a difficult time getting into trains, and especially steam! Please, let me know your thoughts, and definitely share your ideas for a potential future build that might benefit from this design! Oh, and here's the link to the files: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9xAgBdzDImZaFFsM2lGVkdmcEk Thanks for reading, ~M_Slug357~
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Hi! Two years ago, I did a motorizable cherry picker for a contest on the french forum TechLUG. So, I used the comments I had, and I decided to : - Use a more little scale - Better proportions - I did a better cab. In the first MOC, it was too heavy because of the battery box inside it. - The first cherry picker was motorizable by a M motor ; this one is only motorized, more simple and efficient. To summararise : Better proportions (I hope ^^) Only motorized I use inverted gearboxes for : - Outriggers - Arm - Turn table And the manual functions : - The steering (of course) - Extension of the arm So, here's the result: The simplest function is the steering. But there is the L motor over it. So, I used three 16t gears to turn the wheels directly by their axle of rotation. And now, the gearbox. It's an inverted gearbox : the "out gears" turn in the opposite sense. So, when you invert the position of the driving ring, you invert the rotation of a function. Here are screenshots: The outriggers can up the truck: the wheels don't touch the floor. To finish, the arm. It has a triple deformable quadrilateral. I needed so much time to do it, but it's nice to see in action. And the video :
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While looking to buy a PF V2 receiver (58123bc01) I realized that it is only in 9398 and 41999 (both 4x4 crawlers), but is not in later sets like 42030 and 42065. I have been confused by this because I thought that it was suppose to replace the old receiver (58123c01). One thing I thought was that the insides were changed but they didn't have V2 printing, but why I don't know. Hopefully someone knows what's going on!
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This is my latest MOC: an Ariel Atom 500 in 1:9 scale! Technically it isn't a true scale model since I didn't use exact dimensions (I just build what I think looks best), but size-wise it's about 1:9. The real car is the fastest ever variant of the Ariel Atom, a street-legal car built for track racing. Released in 2008, the Atom 500 features a 3-litre transverse-mounted V8 made from two motorbike engines. It produces 500 horsepower (hence the name) and redlines at a rather insane 10,500 RPM. Other modifications include massive wings and the gold-painted exoskeleton. The car weighs only 550kg, giving it a power:weight ratio of over 900hp/tonne (higher than anything short of a Koenigsegg) - It recorded a 0-60mph time of just 2.3 seconds and could reach 200mph. It was the fastest road-legal car around the Top Gear Test Track for over two years. That record lap was on damp tarmac - had the track been dry, it would probably still be at the top. Only 25 of these cars were made, selling for around £200,000 each. My model features: Remote control drive and steering with Power Functions - 1 XL motor for drive and 1 M motor for steering 4-speed sequential gearbox operated with paddle-shifters Working steering wheel Full independent suspension with longitundinally-mounted shock absorbers Steering has zero scrub radius V8 engine replica with moving pistons The zero-scrub radius was a new idea for me. When playing around with suspension linkages, I discovered that mounting the links in a certain way would cause all four to move when turning (rather than just the steering link). The center of steering was further outwards, almost exactly in the middle of the wheels (I think it's where the suspension links would intersect when extended, but I'm not sure of this). The geometry I chose works almost perfectly for 68.8x36 ZR tyres on 56mm rims. Here's a picture of the steering links in their two extreme positions superimposed - the point where the wheel shafts intersect is the center of steering: The suspension is standard double-wishbone in the rear, but with a sideways lever converting the upwards motion of the suspension into longitudinal movement of the shock absorber: The transverse V8 was very difficult to fit in because it has even dimensions and the rest of the chassis has odd dimensions. It is connected directly to the XL motor The interior (or as close as you can get to an interior in an Atom) features two racing-style seats, a steering wheel and paddle shifters: The aesthetics were rather difficult at times. The framwork was very difficult even with the 42055 yellow parts (in fact, getting that set is the reason why I built this model), and at times I had to use some tricks. For example, the rear framework looks like it has two beams crossing in an X-formation when in fact the left and right halves of the "X" are two separate structures: I also replicated the exhaust pipes and gigantic rear wing. One of my favourite parts of the model is the side intake and its red stripe: The PF IR receiver is disguised as the air intake and roll hoop: For more pictures of the car, see my video below. Music is composed by me as well: [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhmgbCIpHT0[/media] This project is also on LEGO Ideas! I know the success rate is extremely low for such projects, but it would be amazing if this set because a reality! Please support my project here. Any support is much appreciated.
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Hey builders! Recently I made a LEGO power functions laser (topic can be found here), and it got me thinking... what els can I build? That's how I came to the idea of making a LEGO electromagnet! Making it was actually a whole lot easier than making the LEGO laser. The LEGO laser required a 9 volt to 5 volt converter and reversed -polarity protection. The electromagnet was already made for 9 volt and it does not care about polarity. I just got the motor out and unhooked the 2 wires, then connected those 2 wires to the electromagnet and... it worked! I'm amazed by the strength of this small thing, under good conditions (unpainted, flat metal) it can lift up to 6 kilo's! I have no specific idea of how to use it in MOC but I'm sure I'll think of a good application for it. All suggestions are welcome by the way Tell me what you think ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ BUILDING LOG weight: 78 gramscapacity: 6 kilo+ To make one yourself you need: PARTS: - a 9 volt electromagnet (ebay is a good source, I bought mine for 5.46$). - some glue (I used hot glue) - soldering tin & shrink tube TOOLS: - flathead screwdriver or prying tool - soldering iron -lighter (for shrink tube) First you need to open up the PF XL motor housing, this is quite hard. I found the best way is to squeeze it just a bit in a vice so the outer shell becomes oval and you can stick a small thin screwdriver in the gap to open it(mind the position in the vice!). This is what you will find on the inside: Disconnect the 2 wires attached to the motor, put the top half of the casing is a vice and dremel out the center rougly to the size of you electromagnet: Then make everything perfectly round with a small file untill the electromagnet fit's snug in the housing: After pressing it in the housing, get 2 lego beams and attach them to the 2 forward facing holes. this way you can make the magnet perfectly flush when mounted in a MOC: Then seal the electromagnet firmly in place using glue (I used hot glue). Next you solder the 2 wires coming from your electromagnet to the 2 wires that were attached to the motor (the inner 2 strands of the 4 strand LEGO wire, polarity does not matter). Make sure you use shrink tube to isolate both wires! Then glue the motor plate (holding the LEGO wire) in place and test the magnet! If it works close it up and you're done!! I hope you enjoined this build log, if you have any questions just let me know!
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A model I've been working for a little while, not much to show yet but pictures soon. 6x6 truck with locking rear diffs and 2 central diffs in the 6x6 drive making for a combination of power delivery choices, similar to the drive train of the mercedes amg 6x6. Using tires from 42054 so its, big near half a meter or so now. Rear live axel suspensions front independet fake v 10 soon to be geared in, possinble addition of 4 speed gearbox and 4 xl motors for drive. with fully rc gear and diff lock control and who knows what else?
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I began to work on my 1st Technic moc yesterday to see what I could come up with. Here's my progress. I'm quite pleased with where I'm at and what I could accomplish, even if it is basic by many Technic builder standards. It drives nice on carpet, though I'd love to have those rubber dots to make it work on hard surfaces. 20170318_121559 by topazard, on Flickr 20170318_121636 by topazard, on Flickr 20170318_121659 by topazard, on Flickr Trying to figure out how to add a function will have to wait until next weekend (hopefully). By then I might have the parts to finish off the marbled top. For anyone wondering this is supposed to be a Grangemouth 3001.
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Hello, Eurobricks. I wanted to post this page because a few days back, I FINALLY managed to get a 4x8 train motor, so I could motorize the engines on my Lego Helicarrier. But when I put in all the power function accessories, the lights came on, but the rotors barely spun for a second. I was wondering if anyone else had motorized their helicarrier, and experienced a similar problem. If so, do you have any solutions to how on fix the problem? Thank you, Th3_Br1ck_Kid
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Here's a little 42030 C-model (+ extra wheels, ONLY added extra parts). It was meant to be just a remedy for boredom while ill, so I build "just so", whatever comes to my mind - just wanted it to be remote controlled. But I quite like the result: a flamboyant van perfect for just cruising around and scaring people. It performs well enough for a heavy, single XL motor-powered model. The gearing somehow makes it slower on reverse which is a fringe benefit, realism-wise. Steering is quite good, turn radius is tight. 35 studs long body + 5 studs long "wings". Functions and feats: ► RC driving and steering ► sliding side doors on the right side, opening doors and fuel cap ► supercharger's scoop in the rear tilts up to reveal the gap leading towards the on/off switch that is activated by rod that can be kept on a special pivoted rack inside the van (you can use the "flag" poles as well, but that's just barbaric) ► non-functional decorated interior, including seats, steering wheel, gear shifter and handbrake ► details such as supercharger scoop, roof-mounted horns, floodlights and break lights, rear view mirrors, exhaust pipes, fenders, flags, radio antenna, floored interior
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Hey Guys, Currently purchasing parts for my first project (more on that later), but starting plan the next one. I am looking to build a narrow gauge steam locomotive and railway with the Indiana Jones track. I am looking at a classic 4-6-0 ten-wheeler, similar to the Lone Ranger Constitution but scaled more to narrow gauge. Ala Walter E. Disney: or more like Tweetsie No. 12: To scale to narrow gauge on the 3-wide IJ track I wanted to use 50254 for the leading truck wheels and three sets of 55423 for the drivers. My issue is gearing the drivers while still making it look like a steamer on the outside. I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods. So I am asking for your help to design a 3 axle narrow gauge PF bogie, hopefully internally framed. The center axle probably has to be floating to contend with the 3-wide sharp curved IJ track... Any bogie gurus out there?!
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Greetings Train Tech, This MoC was actually built over a year ago! I originally designed and built it for use as a "demonstrator" model for a how-to post on Power Functions steam locomotives that I haven't gotten around to writing (although the precursor post is available). While we're waiting on that, I figured I might as well post this model. Prototype History British Railways built this class of 2-6-2 tank engines for a mixed traffic role. Apparently they were very similar to the LMS Ivatt Class 2 2-6-2T, from which they were derived. While none of the class survived into preservation, The Bluebell Railway is rebuilding one of the related 2-6-0 tender locomotives into an example of this class. Engineering Details Usually when I build a MoC, I start with the prototype in mind, then work towards the model. This model began with the desire to build "a small steam locomotive to demonstrate Power Functions", which then determined the choice of prototype. The Standard/Ivatt Class 2 has a number of helpful features in this regard: Small tank engine Large bunker could hide a Power Functions receiver Side tanks can cover up other Power Functions components And indeed, that's how the locomotive is laid out: Even so, the locomotive is quite cramped -- there wasn't enough room for an M-motor based transmission, so I went back to the trusty 9V gearmotor. The output shaft of the motor is very close to the driving axle: ... and it took me a couple tries before I found a good solution: The side tanks contain a channel that allows a cable to pass through, connecting the motor and receiver: The power button is on top of the smokebox and is only held in by gravity: Thank you for reading. Full Brickshelf gallery here.
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