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Showing results for tags '60051train' or 'motor'.
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Hi, After just finishing the S-130 Project I´ve already decided to start a new one. In this case this is going to be the Renfe Class 309, a small 3 axle shunting locomotive from the 1980s. This quite a big contrast with the S-130 but I think is a perfect little project. This is the train in question: The main challenge on this project is how to power it, in this case I´m thinking about using Circuit Cubes to power the three axles. For the running gear design I decided to based it in the one made by @jtlan for his TP56 Switcher Locomotive as is one of the only examples of a 3 axle shunter that I found. Even with this base as a starting point is not easy to do this as my design is just 7 stud wide so I need to offset everything. This is a rough assembly that I have done for now: As it can be seen, the motor will be placed on the front and the battery is going to be right behind, the idea is to use them as counterweight for the heavier cab which is located on the rear just behind the last axle. And now it comes the part in which I ask for some help: Even though I have the design mostly figured out (I might need to make a prototype to see if it can work through R40 curves) my main concern is with the Circuit Cubes Motor and their power output and speed. This is a shunting locomotive so it´s not going to be as fast as the S-130 but even then, it seems that they are quite slow and might require a 1:2 gear ratio which can be simply added onto this design. My concern with this is that is going to become severly underpowered and wont be able to pull any load. I´m not expecting to pull something as massive as the S-130 cars but I would love for it to be able to maybe pull at least one of the passenger train cars that I´ve already designed (although I´m not planning on building them any time soon). This cars are massive with a weight of 1kg each, but those were the real load for this locomotive on the past. I´ve already tinkered with the idea of adding two motors but that will require a much complex redesign as I need to keep the middle axle powered through a worm screw to make it able to work through R40 curves. In this case I think there is enough interior space for me to not worry about it: I would like to know if anyone has done a proper test of the Circuit Cubes motors and knows their maximum load and speed. For now I´m going to continue working on the one motor design and make plans to order pieces for a small prototype. Imanol -
GBC General Discussion
Jim posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Great Ball Contraption (GBC) - General Discussion and Index This is a topic used for GBC general conversation, questions, hints, tips, etc. This first post will be used to maintain an Index of GBCs here on Eurobricks or other websites. Eurobricks topics LEGO GBC 8 + Building Instructions (5 modules - 2 motors) New Akiyuki GBC Instruction Index Other sources Greatballcontraption.com -
I picked up a used 8064 set from 1991 on Bricklink the other day. Sadly it turned out the battery box was completely busted - borderline unopenable and when I managed to open it, it was full of rusted, leaked batteries like no one touched the thing for at least 5 years. I was on a good track to salvaging the box with some vinegar soaking and filing off the residue, but sadly one of the spacer plates snapped off, at which point I gave up and ordered a new box on Bricklink. The new one is clean enough, the contacts on it and on the cables look alright and the motor is intact - yet somehow I can't get the motor to start in any way. I put 6 rechargeable 1,2V batts into the box (inserted correctly), and while I understand 1,2V is not as fast as 1,5V, to my understanding the motor should still work. It spins fine, all the contacts look clean, the battery box buttons click properly when pressed, so I'm at a loss what could be the issue. Any advice would be welcome, if needed I can put up photos. -
Here's a video about fixing a motor pin on 12V Type 1 motor. Hope it helps. Let me know if you do this differently!
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Hi, I have probably a 20-25 year old motor that only on the straights jitters/loses connections and looks to be slightly bouncing. The track is clean because other motors work flawlessly on it. I am wondering if I need to take it apart or if something could be warped. I'd rather not have to buy another $50-$80 motor for my metroliner if I don't have to. Thanks -RailCo
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I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert LEGO building). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver, and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see It was not designed to be converted to power functions / motorized. Here is a photo of the underside: I am not sure the easiest / best way to add power for drive and steering. It just has to move a little bit in the classroom, not drive outdoors in all terrain. I posted in another forum and a member suggested that I post here. Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks much! -
This hover bike was built by Squidman in 2009 as part of payment for a debt to the Skull Twins, and was one of two nearly identical space hogs. The second bike had an inverted color scheme with mostly white instead of black and was called Ivory. The bike seen in this post is called Ebony, and is the last of it's kind, as the other skull twin and his bikes were swallowed by a black hole while trying to outrun the Space Police III forces around seven years ago. The bikes features two laser weapons around the skull ornament on the nose. This three-engine hover cycle is one of the fastest bikes in the Milky Way, seconded only to legendary "Rewind 3", which went so fast it broke the time barrier. So far, it hasn't showed up again, but that hasn't stopped bookies from taking bets stretching back past the last 100 years to next millennium (or two). One of the mysterious Skull Twins... no-one knows what's under the mask, with some saying that he has no face, just soul-piercing, glowing red eyes. The Ebony bike and it's Skull helmeted driver left our galaxy for the Andromeda galaxy due to law enforcement pressure in 2011, and upon his return in 2018 found the galaxy a much darker, more sinister place with the Space police IV dictatorship in place. Due to his disappearance in 2011, this skull twin was declared dead a long time ago and is using this legal void to commit a great many crimes. (The bike was remade into it's current form using only parts from the set, with the addition of the skull twin helmet, head, dark gray pants, a 2 x 2 DBG tile, and a 1 x 2 black plate. This list obviously does not include the white mini-figure stand! ) As usual, comments, questions and complaints are always welcome!
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Hi, I don't own any of the fairground sets, but I'll be adding a couple to my collection pretty soon and want to motorize them. I own the power functions battery boxes that are better suited for Technic sets. Is there a difference between this battery box and the system one that shows up in the new Rollercoaster video? I don't know if the speed of the motors will be different depending on what battery box is used.
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Hello, everyone! The turkey body piece. What does one use it for? I came up with a character using only 4 pieces. Mr. Reykut is pleased to meet you! He is already greasy in anticipation of what's to come! And he sure loves turkey! "Follow me, for we shall head for the kitchen!!" "Welcome to my place, do make yourselves comfortable." "The star of today's show - the turkey!!" "Man am I going to enjoy this... I added some extra grease today!" "Please don't mind me, housekeeping ain't doing itself, you know..." "I always say that the floor should be as shiny as a freshly-roasted turkey..." "About time to turn it over. I can smell the juicy meat" "Let's grill this turkey for good!!!!!" "Yeeeaaaahhh, baby!!" And now - for some proper action!! "Nothing beats a large greasy turkey! Gravy is for wimps, enjoy the meat!!" "Shall we go for some more?" Thank you for your attention! x)
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Motor-brain Droid Brothers are: Xtra Large Motor - the eldest brother Large Motor - the second brother Medium Motor - the youngest brother Simple, but Ingenious. Ugly, but Close. A worm drive is a gear arrangement in which a worm (screw) meshes with a worm gear (aspur gear). A worm drive can reduce rotational speed or transmithigher torque. One of the major advantages of worm gear drive units are that they can transfer motion in 90 degrees. The gear ratio is: 1 to teeth of the worm wheel The direction of transmission is not reversible due to the greater friction involved between the worm and worm-wheel. Worm gear configurations in which the gear cannot drive the worm are called self-locking. The eldest brother - Xtra Large Motor-brain The second brother - Large Motor-brain The youngest brother - Medium Large Motor-brain Power - Battery and its tray, Worm Hand and Tummy - Worm gear Feet - Each foot has 4 wheels Back - Antenna and pigtail Profile - Crankshaft and Link Mechanism drive Arms and Legs Three brothers - Red, Blue and Yellow Welcome to Camellia Café http://www.camellia.xin -
'ME-Models' markets metal tracks that substitute Lego's official 9-volt track, and 4D-Brix reproduces 9-volt monorail substitute parts (including track, motors, plus battery packs) as well, so why has nobody stepped up to the plate and tried to recreate/mass produce motorized 9-volt train bogies/trucks (serial number 590/70358)? A mint one currently goes for as much as 70 USD and used ones go for almost 40 USD, which is ridiculous since that's enough money to buy me food for a week.
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What block and programing I must use, to properly handle management of 5119-1 9V Micromotor, and others ?!! -
Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
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I created this modified Bucket Wheel Excavator some time ago, and I thought I would like to share it on this forum. After building the original BWE, I wanted to try to incorporate some Mindstorms functions into it. I managed to motorise all the active functions, using both an EV3 brick and motors, as well as some PF motors. Functions can be preprogrammed, or can be remotely controlled using an EV3 IR remote. Here is a list of the functions: Bucket wheel rotation and main conveyor belt - PF XL motor Lower conveyor belt - PF medium motor Boom arm elevation - EV3 large motor Lower conveyor swivel - EV3 large motor Superstructure rotation - EV3 medium motor Driving - EV3 medium motor Since I owned an NXT as well, I used it to motorise the small mining truck that was included in the set. There are also some LEDs that illuminate the 'work area', but they don't really do a good job, its just a nice thing to include. Here is a video of the excavator in action, as well as the mining truck (sorry about the poor resolution and bit rate): More info about the machine can be found here: https://www.us.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/community/robot?projectid=3e125a5b-475c-4a4c-b3ed-e4b4f2192907 Let me know what you think of it in the comments! -
If you remember those little clockwork robots, which used to be toys and are now prized collection articles, than you will surely recognize my representation! I've been working on this for some time now and I'm proud to say that this robot walks as well as the real thing! It uses two pullback motors, a couple cogs (gears) and 623 LEGO elements to achieve (I only hope you agree ) both good looks and great functionality. The mechanism with the incorporated motors is made to fit exactly into the case and the case comes off all in one piece (I like my modularity). The mechanism for the legs is the most simple thing ever but making it was as complicated as any of my larger MOCs, because balance played such a vital role in all of it. You can still see it wobble as it walks (I find the wobble quite indearing though ) and a lot of work went into keeping it from falling when it does. I like to think this is my best work yet, so I hope you like it just as much enjoy!!! My Flickr gallery -
To all LEGO train automation enthusiasts, This is a short clip of the final version of our LEGO compatible track switch motor. It has a digital servo embedded in a 3D printed housing. This is a 'plug & play' solution: the motor is strong enough that it doesn't require any modification of the switch (you don't need to open the switch and remove the notch to reduce the force needed to flip it). I also added a picture of the back side so you can see how it can fit onto a LEGO® switch. The housing is made in a custom dark bluish gray ABS filament that matches the LEGO® tracks. The motor has a 6 by 6 stud footprint and it's 2 bricks + 2 plates high. We'll be making controllers for these motors as well, so you can connect them to your PC. However, the motors are fully Arduino compatible, so you can integrate them in you own DIY control system. What do you think ? We're working on a full range of automation gadgets for LEGO trains. What other automation challenges would you like to see solved ?
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Does anyone know where to find broken 9V train motors? I searched bricklink and ebay but i didn't find anything. I want to make it in to a custom PF power pickup.
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To all LEGO train automation enthusiasts, Now that our track switch motors are out, I finally found the time to make a short clip of the first fully functional prototype of our level crossing motor. The main goal was to have a small motor specially designed level crossing barriers. We managed to pack a tiny digital servo into a brick that measures 2 studs wide, 4 studs deep and 3 brick high (16x32x28.8mm). In front, the motor has a 'square stud' to attach the barrier. In this setup I also added a prototype of our 'train traffic light' that I put on its side and added 2 red transparent 1x1 round LEGO bricks. The motor and light are controlled with our nControl software. The final motors would be printed in black, as I assume that would be the most requested color for barrier motors. Let us know what you think. This is not a final product, so all feedback/questions/suggestions are welcome!
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Lately I have broken down 3 standar motors, all because of the wires, all my MOCs are very small and the place for cables is always low. How often do you break the cables?, I think that my case is normal, 4 standar motors and 1 XL broken in 7 or 8 years always using the same motors MOC after MOC It's understandable. -
First off, I just want to say this set is apparently VERY popular, (and for very good reason!) as I tried in May to get one and the LEGO store was out for a long while. I finally got the second-to-last one on double points VIP points day on the 7th of this month. The following post is not a perfect analysis, but I thought I'd show off what I did to the contents of this set as no reviews are out yet.... though this is NOT a review! This vessel is a slightly modified set 30152,( Weekend Getaways). I removed the tall poles serving as radio transmitters / receivers plus I added a surplus reverse tile to the bridge's computer to keep it stable. The inside is the same as the stock set, with cup rack, stove, sink, tables and chairs. The rear porch and front bedroom are also the same as designed. The ship is incredibly light - more than my similar sized Adventurers tugboat and I would highly recommend it for it's play-ability and cool looks. The rear awning just oozes coolness, and is the one spot where I screwed up. (The fabric holes are just big enough to go onto the pins, not between them and the frame as I originally thought. I nearly tore it taking it apart again, but luckily I did not!) This model was made from leftover parts of set the C model of 30152 (Weekend Getaways) and several pieces from my own LEGO collection. I modified the original design to have four lights for navigation and a gray engine instead of a white one as used in the set. The model seats one figure and has barely enough room for a single standing passenger. ....that's about all I have in regards to this set comments-wise. As always, Thoughts, Comments, Questions and or Complaints are welcome, but please try to be kind! Thanks again for reading, Murdoch17
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Hi guys, I admitted defeat on TC10 since my chassis won't allow me to connect any real bodywork to it (I know I give up too easy), so instead I decided that I wanted to try and reverse engineer gsia16's citroen saxo rally car! However, with the regular 9v non rechargeable battery pack, the motor will go for a short amount of time and then just slow down or stop completely, inching forward a millimeter at a time and straining the battery. I wanted to ask if this is the fault of the battery box not giving enough power, or the motor just being "old" (it's part of the 8287 set) I've searched around but can't find an answer (perhaps im not using the right search terms or something) anyways, if it is the battery, could I use a 7.2v NiMH from a RC car? (for example one of these) if so, that could provide a lot more power to it (more than the 9v lego pack could) and make for an interesting ride, provided it won't fry the receiver (that's my other worry about it) What do you guys think? would the buggy motor get a new lease of life, and would it still be able to power an M motor for steering? Thanks, -ender -
How to Motorize the Mars Rover I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert level building. (No building the rover is not part of the project, she is doing it as an additional part of her presentation on Rovers). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see So, to steer, I use a servo? How do I operate the other things, more servos? And to move things slowly, do I need complex gearing? (I was looking at the SBrick which might work. I saw a few designed steering racks and chassis on Ebay, some simple, some pretty complex. Would I be better off buying another set that has a chassis and steering and drive designed to work with motors and then build it and adapt the Rover to it? Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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The original Aero Racer featured a dual motor setup. This is a completely overhauled pullback racer with three hard-coupled pullback motors. Combine that with large tires, and it makes for a superb setup for more than adequate torque and speed and exceptional distance run. Features flex axles and (non-functional) V8 piston engine. -
9V motor issues - replace or convert to Power Functions?
Tannerman posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Long time reader, first time poster. So back in 2002 I picked up 4535 LEGO Express Deluxe to run around our Christmas tree. It features a 10205 My Own Train engine and tender with 9V motor and light package. I typically only run it around the holidays (after cleaning all the track, etc), but over the past few years I've been having issues with the motor. This year I'm noticing that it just runs for awhile... and then stops, almost as if its overheating or something. If I wait a while (5-10 minutes), the motor seems to work once again. My gut is that the motor is giving out on me finally, but wanted to confirm with those in the know. That said, if my 9V motor is failing, I'm looking at affordable next steps -- and also trying to keep a 4-year-old boy pretty happy. Do I suck up secondary market prices and buy another 9V motor or do I make the jump to Power Functions? If the latter, then I don't know really where to start regarding what I'd need to purchase from BrickLink, etc. Any help or advice would be appreciated (Also, if anyone has successfully converted this engine/tender combo to PF, I'm all ears). Thanks in advance! - Steve -
hi all I have tried two time to get a dead micro motor back to life and so far I have been able to get them working but then I try do get rid of the magnetic powder and that kills the motor when I try to put power through it. has anyone been able to successfully get them working again without having to take them apart again? if so can you tell me how you did it? thanks 9v system
