Zerobricks

Decided to take apart the model after the gathering, since it was full of dirt which was starting to jam the gearbox amongst others. Two washing machine cycles later, the bricks were ready to be rebuilt back and this time I took some photos of the (re)build: The build starts with the bottom of the model which provides structural support and ingress protection: Afterwards the lubricated driveline parts are added. So many pretty colors: Two PU L motors are placed on top of the driveline. The one on the left is used for steering, while the one on the right controls the gearbox: A quick gerabox test: With the main base more or less complete, it's time to build the front axle. Here is how it looks from the front side: And another photo of the front axle, this time from the rear side: The front axle is attached and interlocked to the main chassis using a few 5 studded axles with stops and a structure holding the steering rack in place is added in front: Rear axle is sandwiched between two 5x7 frames which with the help of lever keep it together. It's designed as a standalone module and attached using orange pins: The red lights on the rear of the rear axle cover the drive axles and preventing the dirt from getting in there. Also notice the towing hitch which has yet to be used: Now that the rear axle has been firmly attached, we have a rolling chassis: A bit of cable managment and a bodywork later and the model is finished: I hope you find these photos interesting and please let me know if you have any questions!

Not with a stop axle. But it works with a normal axle

I would recommend having more weight in front in order to easier climb over steps like you emntioned and to keep the model more stable when going uphill. I will look into photos, I probably deleted them while cleaning up Bricksafe - I'm running out of room.

Thank you for the praise and the work you put into the file. Looking back at that project now, I could do so many improvements using never parts such as flip flip beams etc... Technic system just keep on getting better in that regards.

The Mclaren uses a different type...

And what keeps the gears apart from sliding and engaging? Also the bush would have to be perfectly cenetred - I think that's a bit too tight and unreliable.

I'0m not sure if I follow... Can you give more details and perhaps use colors to show different pieces?

I wonder if we will see a next 1:10 scale smodel or SUV which uses that piece in such color. Ford Raptor comes to mind, but we already had that.

Actually it's my mistake, I mixed them up as this one doesn't use portal hubs. Still a great model regardless.

That would be quite a challenge, since it would have to be a double one, with two wave patterns stacked on top of each other.

Would love to see the folllwing Technic parts in next release: 6460292 Hub 6496329 Battery 6454803 Fiber optics 10L - could be made derived from the outer flexible cables 6496831 Fiber optics 25L - could be made derived from the outer flexible cables 6452863 / 4450 #7 Connector 6434574 / 3584 Gear shifter 6434577 / 3590 12 tooth clutch gear with extension 6452857 / 4427 Large mudguard 4415 3x9 Curved panel: 4443 and 4446 Tapered curved panels 5741 and 5742 Inverted long smooth fairings 6452875 1x6 link perepnedicular 4423 7x7 wishbone 5429 16 x 6 x 3 arm 6452864 87,9 x 36 tyre Thank you and keep up the good job!

Follow the instructions in reverse

The perfect B model indeed. Great job with the brick-built portal hubs and the lift mechanism which works without any LAs/pneumatics. Frontpaged

There seems to be a mechanical safety clutch on the drive outputs which can be triggered by slowly driving the car forward and pushing it back. I can't wait to see an opened hub for even more features!

I recommend we handle this on support, send an E-mail and please put as many details as possible, such aa phone type, application, control profile, etc...

Same with ball joint pins. But you can put a bar a full stud inside 3L frictionless pin and stack them together with 2L pins to form and endlessly long pin.

Nice find! I guess the reviewers somehow missed that one? I do wonder if we will eventually get inverted versions of all the panels.

Literally every flat panel has such a shape in the corner

Been there, done that Plenty, maybe even too much, since the outputs are geared down 9x. I could ditch the rear live axle and use independent suspension on all wheels and change the gearing to 5,4 to gain more speed.

Started to build the 42176, but I think I made a mistake somewhere, since I ended up with this: These are just a few quick photos of the working prototype, but it does show that the hub can be used for both a functional and a structural element in a non racing models aswell.

Also current pneumatics don't suck air, they always use positive pressure. First LEGO version is a different story though.

Problem is that you can install BuWizz in any direction/oreintation, and you would have to have several parameters to adjust the compensation response... It would complicate things a lot. I found another feature. The drive motors are regulated, so they are always at the same RPM when driving straight and there is an electronic differential implemented, so that the RPM of the inner wheel is reduced and the outer one is increased. But that also means that the hub is probably not delivering full power to the drive motors in order to maintain RPM...

Got the set today and noticed several things: Optic fibers are 3,2 mm diameter, so they are NOT standard 3,0 mm Rear and side outputs are 1:1 ratio and perfectly synced + to + When driving the hub seems to use the accelerometer or a gyro to compensate jaw by activating the steering output - this means this model should be able to go very straight

Yes, it should, you should be able to use all 4 ports at once for smart functions such as steering and gearboxes. Also you should be able to control both axles independently.

How about those used in Creator Corvette?