Jump to content

Zerobricks

Eurobricks Archdukes
  • Posts

    8,023
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Zerobricks

  1. Thank you for the detailed description. Really well designed model with a great use of new parts such as 24 tooth gear and the gear shifter. I skimmed over the instructions and have a question regarding the pin on the steering rack at page 62, step 69. What pin is that on the left side of the rack where the bar with the ball joint gets inserted?
  2. Thank, I missed that one, rotors would hit each otehr with the short one. I'm thinking since we haven't seen the 6x4 bent liftarm and #6 connector in teal/dark torquoise since the 90s (first time for the connector), that they indicate an upcoming model in this color. I think the supercar and the G-wagon will come in dark purple and teal.
  3. Yeah, the tractor tyres are quite wide. Also now you have a model for the 49,5x20 competition!
  4. Took less than 10 minutes: To add, the only uknown is which pin is used to move the winch, in the video I used 18651, though 11214 might make more sense to keep the winch from unwinding under gravity.
  5. Awww, it's so cute! I wonder if it was designed by Grohl, judging by the tail color.
  6. Thank you for this insight. When you say it runs faster, can it also handle more parts?
  7. Looks good, the only thing is I would replace the 2L axles with black ones in the front and same with red pins.
  8. Just a quick achievement, I managed to build the 30655 Forklift inside the polybag in some 2 hours
  9. I was talking about real life application, not the set. I would not worry, I don't think it will be motorized, let alone use 4 motors and 4 gearboxes.
  10. You don't need diff locks when you have one motor per wheel and when you can control each one individually.
  11. I expect to see a Low and High range gearbox and a 4 speed gearbox, same as defender, but using new parts for more efficiency. Diff locks would be an icing on the cake, but I'm not sure of their usefulness for a non-motorized model.
  12. Front suspension reminds me of tne bettle one. Rear seems to be a classical trailing arm with gears. Nice idea using longer axle for steering which can simply slide in and out of the rack. I was thinking of using such idea in my models, but I'm worried about it getting jammed, especially with outdoor use.
  13. The battery has a 7A lsafety imit, so the theoretical max constant power you can get is 84 Watts. I would not recommend pulling more than 2A constantly from the PF ports, as they might melt due to the contact resistance, PU ports are better for such cases due to the larger contact surface.
  14. Can the 77765 pin be redefined, so it can be inserted into a beam part way - simillar to an axle? It can smoothly slide in and out of the holes at any length from start to finish.
  15. In such case I recommend drawing power from both ports (2A each) in order not to literally melt them.
  16. ooof, that's a bit harder, I would have to look at one that's already apart. The gearing is same as original RC motor though.
  17. I'm so happy to see the amazing job @Ngoc Nguyen did with the instructions and all the people having fun rebuilding this model. It's positive feedback like that that really inspires me to keep on building and giving back to the community!
  18. My recommendation is to drive the wheels as directly as possible.
  19. You never want the pivot point directly in center, because than the wheel can become unstable. A good analogy is your head and neck support, your head is supported off center and is much more stable and if it were supproted in dead centre and wobble in all directions.
×
×
  • Create New...