Kumbbl

EBay Kleinanzeigen ... Single offering.. I have no clue why he has offered it for such a low price but i have not complained ;-)... There was only one drawback: i had to pick up the unimog at his home and it was 90 km away.. So i spent a 1,5h car ride but i would say a 50€ 8110 is it worth...;-)

Today a complete 8110 Unimog with all 5 BI for just 50€.... IMHO a real bargain :-)

until now my 3-side tilting bed has missed real loading gates... in this thread i found a very good inspiration from EB member stefan_betula_pendula: especially his locking mechanism is very nifty... so i copied that one and made my own bed with 3 tailgates - inspired by that one above but reduced to the original 8110 size (height, width and length (+1)) (i'm not willing to buy estimated 3 millions LBG thin 1x6 liftarms ;-) - here the result: the copied locking mechanism: EDIT: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf by bricksafe...

well, the question of the questions is: when is final really final? ;-) needing two PF motors for steering the Unimog incl. working steering wheel (see my posting above) did not leave me in peace, until i found a solution which - steers as reliable as a directly-at-the-front-axle-mounted servo (description see posting above) - needs only one motor - preserves the fake engine and the working steering wheel some posting above i wrote that a solution with a L-motor in the cabin which drives the steering and the steering wheel performes not bad but not as perfect and reliable as the servo directly mounted on the front axle. This was my starting point and i found quite fast the weak-point of this solution why the steering does not work when the Unimog doesn't drive and why the steering has a somehow too high reaction time: The weak point was the white clutch gear which was too weak so the full power of the motor does not reach the steering rack... So a fix was quite obvious: using two clutch gears in a row should be strong enough to force the wheels steering always and even when not driving...well, but this brought up a further problem: the very limited space in the cabin: there was/is simply per default no room for a second clutch gear, the motor and all the needed gear-reduction - but then i had an idea: what about "outsourcing" the last black 12th bevel gear which drives the axle with the yellow knob gear of the cabin?! And yes, that was the philosophers stone - this made room for another clutch gear - but still a real challange integrating all stuff so in the cabin that all stuff is braced very well and work smoothly together... But now i'm really happy - the RC steering - works as well and reliable as the direct-servo-solution (steers also very well when not driving!) - even better because now you are able to steer smoother because the m-motor allows every steering angle - and a return-to-center is really not necessary with such slow vehicles... - preserves the full suspension travel of the front axle (with the servo mounted on the front axle the travel must be reduced by the height of a 1x2 plate to prevent the servo from colliding with the pistons of the fake engine (from below) - has a working steering wheel - needs only one motor to drive all stuff together from within the cabin - does not destroy the look of the cabin which is still good (even better as with the L-motor because the m-motor is less bulky and therefore a better looking "center console" well enough words, here are the pics of the final result and also one from the inside (all detailshots are in my bricksafe folder http://bricksafe.com...ontrol/Steering) from the inside of the mechanics: backside view which shows the bearings and bracings of the now outside located final 12th bevel gear (which drives the yellow knob gear as well as the gear-train of the steering wheel): sorry for bad pics but they have been shot last night with an iPhone... EDIT: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf by bricksafe

Thank you for your answers... All reduction will be done before the clutches... After the clutches it will go 1:1 ...

I'm planning to use a setup, where two 8th gears drive 2 24th white clutch gears to make the clutch stronger: Axle A: 2 8th in a row Axle B: 2 24th clutch gears in a row Is the Description understandable and is this a proper approach to make the clutch mechanism stronger? Or will this become too strong, what du you think? Thanks in advance!

And you have captured this look in a really perfect manner, congrats! Even if it sounds a little Bit crazy spending for 4 soft black axles more money than one needs for a new flagship ;-))

well, yesterday i have built this solution e for RC-steering incl. seprately driven working steering wheel and i must say: This will be my to go version because it simply performs best, by far best. Cause of the heavy weight of the Unimog and the very high friction of its tires a RC steering which is 100% reliable and which has a fast enough response time is IMHO only possible when mounting a servo motor direct on the front-axle without any gear train... all motor solutions which steer via the standard steering gear-train are operating more or less suboptimal, at least IMHO and based on my experiments - and because connecting the steering wheel to the front-axle servo via the steering-gear-train is impossible one has simply no other chance than mounting a small M-motor in the cabin which drives with some reduction (1:5) the steering wheel and which is connected together with the servo on the IR-receiver on the same connector... yes, it sound a little bit as overkill and the solution d (see my previous posting) works overall also not bad... and also yes, steering via the long gear-train is more complex especially if for you the number of involved gears and axles is the most important value - but as EB member allanp always says: "complexity just for the sake of complexity is not really smart" (or words to that effect) .. and the best result and performance you won't get with such a complex solution but only with the solution described above. And therefore this is my final RC solution. Anyway, with the smaller M-motor and with much less needed down-gearing the cabin looks less full and the "center console" less bulky - but compare for yourself which solution looks better: M-Motor for just the steering wheel (pictures below) or L-Motor for driving the full steering from within the cabin (pictures in previous posting): BTW: Mounting the servo on the front-axle is completely copied from the solution of EB member Pat-Ard - can not be done better (IMHO)... all detail pics of the cabin changes and the servor-mountings can be found as always in my bricksafe folder and named subfolders: http://bricksafe.com.../Remote Control And cause of finding now the final solution of the RCing and therefore finishing the Unimog MOD-project (at least for a while ;-) here comes the full potpourri of the final RC-Mog and all its added features and attachments (the yellow mower, the red street cleaner and the front-loader are only rebuilds based on some pics posted by the original builders in this thread - cudos to all of you for these great attachments ) EDIR: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf by bricksafe

the work has been done - i have finished my RC Unimog project...well, there are already some recommendations in this thread how to RC the Unimog but most of them are based on placing the PF motor for propulsion in the middle of the chassis direct below the bed... This works great and can easily be applied but nevertheless it is useless for me, because i have installed a tilting 3-side bed so there is simply no room for a XL motor at this place... So i searched for a RC-solution with the following basic parameters: - must be a reliable RC steering ansd propulsion - tilting 3-side pneumatic driven bed - working steering wheel - fake engine below the cabin must be preserved - must not mutilate the look of the Unimog - overall weight balance has to be good - it should be not necessary to completely rip apart the unimog but it should be possible to apply it with quite less effort - should preserve the basic design of the Unimog as good as possible - IR receiver should be placed as invisible as possible EB member Pat-Ard has a quite interesting basic idea: placing the XL there where the battary box is installed. This idea has fixed me on and it turns out as a very good concept: - XL Motor fits perfectly at this place --> has as a side effect the advantage that it improves the weight balance of the Mog because now the heavy battery box does not influence the left side-suspension anymore (IMHO this is one of two annoying drawbacks of the standard 8110) - It does not collide with the pneumatic driven bed - XL can be very easy, strong and stable installed So propulsion could be solved quite easily...but one remark: For RC-driving the gears in the portals must be changed - there are some RC Unimogs out there which uses 12:20 gear reduction - this is IMHO too fast, sometimes you will hear cracking some gears when accelerating... IMHO 8:24 is better suited for the RC Unimog... Well, applying this XL solution forces using the the accu 8878 or the 88000 battery because now the only possible place for a power source is the cabin - at least if the fake engine has to be preserved (which was a must for me) - luckily the accu with its 4x5x8 size fits incredible perfect between the seats direct at the rear wall of the cabin (see picture below) - just a 9L liftarm connected to the roof panel and one simple "connection" between the DBG angular braces within the cabin is needed to fix it dead certain... removing the accu is very easy: just open the roof and pull it out... put it back, close the roof and it is fixed again...no pins no bricjs needed - perfect --> and it is almost "invisible" from outside... RC steering needed way more efforts to find a well integrated and well working solution - the following alternatives were on my short-list: a) Placing a servo direct on the front axle --> works very well but it was impossible to connect the rear output of the servo to the steering gear-train to drive my working steering wheel in the cabin (see http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1939279 , 3.) - too steep angle and too short distance to connect a universal joint and the steering CV joint) b) placing the servo in the cabin between the seats and below the accu: This can be built it very easy with only small changes to the cabin and it is also very simple to connect the working steering wheel but the steering performance is somehow mediocre... the servo has enough power but IMO the steering gear train from motor to the rack is too long with too many gears involved so there is to much backlash - and because the servo can just spin a 1/4 for a full steering lock and because of very much friction cause by the big tires this 1/4 round of the servo is partly somewhere lost in the steering gear train - BTW: the gear train works very smooth and i have also replaced all priction pins of the steering mechanism with frictionless solutions... to make a long story short: placing the servo in the cabin is not the best buy c) Using the method like that one by EB member JunkStyleGio here in this thread (placing a M-motor vertically at the cabin wall is not possible because this place is already used by the accu-box d) Placing a M or L motor horizontally between the seats and gearing down it appropiately: This allows connecting to the working steering wheel and has not the just a 1/4 round limitation of the servo (see b) - but this needs some brain efforts to intergrate it well in the cabin so the cabin look is not completely mutilated - at least the Motor should give the possibility to be viewed as a massive center console ;-) I have tried a, b and d - and overall d is the best compromise: It steers reliable (in contrary to b - but not as perfect as a), it preserves the working steering wheel and it can be integrated in the cabin with a acceptable look (at least IMHO ;-) One remark to c and d: For this solutions a white 24th clutch gear is essential and this can be a limiting factor: it the clutch is to weak then it could be that the steering works not reliable - the motor has enough power but cause of the high friction of the tires it can be that this power drains away in the clutch gear There would be a solution e: Using a (placing the servo direct on the fron axle and combining a M-motor in the cabin beetween the seats and below the accu which has just one tasK. driving the working steering wheel (this should occupy much less space as a L-Motor and all the down-gearing necessary with solution b)... maybe i will try it out because this would combine the best steering of solution a with a working steering wheel and a quite invisbile motor in the cabin... but it is also the most expensive solution and it sounds like an overkill for just a working steering wheel (bur for me this is a very important feature of a lego technic vehicle..) So overall integrating - the accu-box - a L Motor incl gear down train ~ 1:8 - the IR receiver in the cabin and still preserving a quite good look was a real challange - but overall i'm quite satisfied: Now the Unimog drives and steers reliable with RC and still has the tilting bed, the working steering wheel and the fake engine and apart from the L-Motor for steering all the needed stuff is more or less invisible from outside... This RC-Mod is an additon to all the MODs described in previous postings of this thread: http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1939279 (working steering wheel, smother steering, 3-side tilting bed, double pump and some more...) http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1943066 (PTO pass through and PTO driven trailer) http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1950664 (Air tank) Plus now openable doors - they were inspired by the solution of Pat-Ard but slightlyx improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... All motors of the chassis are now cased... Well, enough words, here are some pics of my final RC Unimog with all the additional features described in the linked postings: Two detailshots of the RC steering solution: Two concept pics from my PoC how the XL-drive motor is integrated - only the red parts and some pins and some gears are necessary as additional parts (all other colors and parts are original 8110 design): Here is a pic about the building sequence when adding the XL-motor to the already build Unimog: All detail shots needed for reproducing all of the changes (should be sufficient as photo BIs) can be found in my bricksafe folder (and its named subfolders): http://bricksafe.com.../Remote Control After working some weeks on all this MODs i can only repeat what i have said in another thread (topic: What is so special of the Unimog?): The moding possibilities of the 8110 sets are really incredible - i love some other great sets too but no other sets makes so much fun by trying to improve it - Overall IMHO the best lego technic set until now, period! ;-) P.S. I'm waiting on the flashing beacons i have ordered from EB member Zmei_gorini4 - then my Unimog is really finished.. ;-) EDIT: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf by bricksafe

I would like to recommend the outstanding garbage truck of MrTekneex to become a member of the Hall of Fame: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98306

IMHO this unique and awesome built model should become a member of the Hall of Fame...

Arghhh, i have to change my Voting too... I will so this until evening...

thank you - sounds senseful - camera accus normaly have the same behaviour - blinking = charging - constant light is full

_Cookie_, i see, you have changed your statement, now you say: blinking = full constant light = charging If this would be right, then there is somehow strange behaviour: I had have connected the accu to the plug socket for about 45 min and it was always blinking, now the red led has constant light.. if blinking=full and constant light=charging then this would mean, the power connected accu was 45 min full and beginns now with charging.. sounds strange, doesn't it? I'm somehow confused...

First of all thank you for you very helpful answer. But in the meanwhile i had success in finding some element specification: http://powerfunctions.lego.com/en-us/ElementSpecs/Default.aspx#8878 Here the description says: "...To charge the battery you should use the 10 VDC LEGO Transformer. While you are charging the red indicator LED will be lid. When charging is done it will start blinking..." Well, now i have two 1080 degree contrary statements ;-) My gut instinct would tend to _Cookie_'s opinion which would mean in consequence that the description on the lego site is wrong... Therefore now the question: Who is wrong: lego or _Cookie_?

Hi, have bought it without charging instruction - i have connect it to the plug socket, now the red led blinks: does this mean it is charging or does it mean that it is fully charged? Another question: Can i somehow damage the accu if it remains some time connected to the plug socket even if already full charged? Thanks you.

First of all i would like to congratulate all of you on these awesome minimodels - there are too many really very very good models for just 20 points - so i will rate just the really outstanding (IMHO)... but this means not, that i do not admire models which are unrated by me - most of these models are way better than i could design from scratch... Well here we go, my voting: 31: 6 40: 4 13: 3 41: 3 19: 2 29: 1 16: 1

yes yes yes!

Paul B, your placement of the steering servo is a great idea, but i'm not sure if i'm a friend of your propulsion solution - IMHO it is smarter to preserve the fake engine... and if you haven't built in a tilting pneumatic driven bed then there is enough place for a XL-motor in the middle of the chassis... there are some postings here (and also some youtube instructions) in this thread how to do this - its a very easy modification too... Cause of my tilting 3-side bed i'm currently working on a RC solution with: - the XL-motor is placed where normaly the battery box is placed is placed - The accu box is used instead of the battery box and that one is placed in the cabin vertically between the seats... - the accu pack is so small that it fits very well into the cabin even without destroying the look... this gives the Unimog als a better weight balance because the XL motor is less heavy than the standard battery box BTW: Thank you Pat for the great idea placing the XL where the battery box resides...

one suggestion: Maybe you could mount the cylinders for the tail gate inside... would be a cleaner look... thoughts?

ah, my fault - i have overseen that the prices in the filtered list are listed in € because this is my preference (as German)... well, the cheapest is 240$ (rsp. 186€) - but still not really overprized for new and sealed... typical price at amazon.de was always between 159€ and 179€... or something similar... i can't imagine that the Unimog was way cheaper in US in the past... but i admit i do not know the US prices of lego...

These are for sure very good choices (apart from the 42030 but this can be my own personal and subjective opinion - there are a lot people out there who love this set) I would add 8258 and especially the 8455 - latter one is IMHO one of the best models ever... And if you are interested in building some old legends from the studded area, then i would recommend the 8868, 8880 and 8479... especially the first one is a MUST have and there are not few people who rate this set as best model release ever... Personally i would start with 8110 and 42009 because a) both are great sets and b) then you have quite all stuff to build own models/creations if you like...

there is a term in a free market economy: supply and demand ;-) Anyway: if you search in BL for 8110 and just filter to sellers located in USA than you get some offerings of new and sealed sets for about 180 - 200$ - which is IMHO a very fair price.. what is wrong with these offerings??

Can't say it better

wow - for that PF assortment this is quite cheap...