Kumbbl

Well spoken, allanp!

8258 is great and very recommenable but brand new and with unopend box it is quite impossible to find for 170 pound (~ 214€) - here you have to calculate with about >= 250€ or you have to be very patient... 8285 looks good but it is quite boring in all other aspects... 42030 is a great PF pack for a fair price with good playability and crappy (because jerky) steering and (very) boring build... but if it has to be brand new and if it should be unopened and if it should be one of these three sets then i would indeed recommend the new 42030 - at least if for you is RC and a lot of PF-elements very important... if you are looking for an interesting build then you should try to catch a 8258 (used but near mint condition with box and BI you can get between 120 to 180€)

well, actually there has been already all said about this question in this forum... but i will give it another try: let's first draw some baselines: - I assume that most of us agree that there are only few other models which can compete with the Unimog - The question "which one is the best of the best?" can probably not be answered universally valid because to much personal tastes are involved So why i would rate the Unimog in the meantime slightly higher than the other competitors like 8868, 8880, 8479, 8480, 8455, 8043, 8258 and 42009 (IMHO these are all competitors of the Unimog in the fight for the crown) Sort version: In contrary to all others it has all - well, it is not the best in all criterias but it has overall a very high level in all criterias: Long version: part-assortment: it has many many parts and it has parts of each categories: it has PF and it has pneumatic - i hat a lot of liftarms, a lot of gears, it has gearbox parts, it has suspension parts, it has panels etc. etc. - it has all what you need as a starting point to build own and other models... e.g. EB member MrTekneex has build just from the 8110-parts a quite nifty C-model, a jeep, so something completely different Well, 42009 has even more parts but is lacks some categories like pneumatic or suspension, so: No other competitor offers such a broad part assortment out of the box --> In this criteria the Mog is the best of the best display look: the Unimog is simply one of the best looking models - well others like 8043 and 8258 look also very very good - its a matter of personal taste which one is the best playability: Apart from the crappy steering (at least out of the box) the playability is quite high - you can play with it and you can lift stuff with the crane (e.g. in contrary to the 8258 which can simply lift nothing Building experience: It is good to very good but not the best one compared to others like 8043, 8258, 8868 or - the best of all - 8455 Innovation: here the unimog is again among the best models: It brings new parts (the pneumatic connector, the portals) and it brings new axle designs - others like 8880, 8879 and 8868 are also very innovative Cool mechanism and gear-trains: here the Unimog has no chance against gear-train marvels like 8043 or 8258 - but in contrary the Unimog fights back with the next criterium: realism: IMHO here the Unimog is outstanding to models like 8043 or 8258 - only the 8455 and the 8868 can compete here - and at the beginning the technic line of LEGO had the slogan "Technic as in reality" - IMHO this is one of the most important criterias and the Unimog satisfies it at the best Functions: The Unimog has a lot and most of them are working well. But this is also the criteria which contains a flaw and unfortunatelly a serious flaw of the Unimog: The steering is really crappy - at least out of the box - you can mod it so it works better but there is no front-axle design which satisfies under all criterias... of course, there is the complete redesigned front-axle of Nicjasno (LPE Power) which really works well (i have build it) and fixes the functional flaws but on the other side it looses als the realistic look of an Unimog axle (at least IMHO)... if lego would have designed a better working suspendable unimog steering then the Unimog would be by far the best model ever, without any doubt and question... but so this a serious drawback. Well, but lets not overstimate the problem: It is a problem but it can be fixed in several ways - which one is the right for you depends what you want (easy steering or best suspension or both but no realistic axle look or RCing or etc.)...In this posting i have mentioned some aspects: http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1939279 Modding potantial: Here the Unimog is outstanding to all other technic sets - neither of the mentioned competitors is even nearly to MOD-able as the Unimog - well, you can move the 8043 to an ulimate version but that's it, 8455 and 8868 are so dense and compact builds that there is simply no chance for MODs, 8880 can be well modded and also the 8258 but in no way thier potantial is as high as of the unimog... You can quite easy RC it, you can build thousands of attachments, you can add a lifting bed etc. etc. just check the Unimog attachment/modification thread.. So overall the Unimog gives you the most out of the technic line in one box for a fair price (BTW: you will find a lot of second hand models in quite new mint condition for fair prices) So now the final question: Is the Unimog the best of the best in my opinion: In all objectivity: Yes - from a more subjective point my personal "king" ist still the old 8868 - even it is not the best in some criterias listed above: But is soooo cool and one of the most innovative models which makes you stunning - a MUST Have. But the Unimog is a MUST have too.... Just my 2ct P.S. The new 42030 Frontloader is not a competitor of the unimog - at least IMHO...it is a great PF assortment but in all other criterias apart from playability it plays in a lower league...

At least 8043 is quite Hard to get for a decent price; here you need not little luck but a lot of... And 8258 with box and BI in good condition is quite expensive too.., But of course you are right, both are great sets and all time classics and worth the money

Before getting sets 42030, 9398 or Even One of the worst 42008 please get the Unimog 8110 or the Heil 9396 or 9397 which are all better and are all sets where you can't get wrong... Overall at least the Unimog is a must have and o e of the best sets ever... Just modify the steering and it is the best one cause of the incredible modding possibilities...at least it is the best if that property is important for you ;-)

In Germany you sometimes find used sets in good condition for ~ 50 to 70€ if you are patient... Best is to look at marketplaces like Kleinanzeigen.ebay.de I got mine fir that price; Indeed great because unique model

Wow wow wow! Way cool, Never seen such a detailed garabage truck. Because the instructions of your awesome C model tow truck of 8258 are fantastic i can say right now: if you make BI then i will buy them.

How to order?

well, with the double pump there is enough power in the system but on the other side quite few flexibility because if no operation takes place the motor stalls quite immediately...so either you have to open any valve or switch off electrical power by the PF switch or you let the the motor stall a while... IMHO the latter one is not so good because it eats much of the battery... Therefore it would be better if the air system has more capacity and an air buffer... so an airtank enhances the whole ait system a lot - well here it is (cause of the lifting bed feature it can not be placed and hided within the chassis so i searched another place where it at least does not disturb the look of the Unimog - after searching this thread i found an idea of EB member Pat-Ard - IMHO a very good solution - i adopted it from Pat-Ard but mounted it differently - it is integrated in the exhaust pipe: If there would exist a black airtank it would be perfect - so i will try the vinyl dye approach (BTW: thanks for your hints in the other thread concerniung this question) to color it black. The whole pipe incl. the tank and all connected tubes can be pulled off the cabin with one hand-movement so the cabin can still be tilted. The tubes are all well hided and guided by several smal parts / holes... BTW: i have added an engine cowling (s.a. first picture) to hide the M-motor, the power cable (which leads to the PF switch) and the tubings to the new air tank. Overall now the whole air system works perfectly: enough power for all attachments and enough flexibility by an air buffer to prevent the motor from stalling or at least straining. Double pump + airtank is highly recommended. More detail shots can be find in my bricksafe folder: http://bricksafe.com...and double pump EDIT: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf by bricksafe

Unfortunatelly airtanks exist only in two colors: white and blue... the former one is a no go for most models whereas the latter one sometimes match colorwise... but now i need a black one - normally i'm a 100% purist but for this i would make an exception - therefore my question: Can anybody recommend a coloring-method, a color producer or even a service provider to whom i can send a blue airtank and get it back black colored... I assume best result would be when airbrushed, right? Recommendations from Germany would be best but within EU are also ok (cause of shipping costs)... Thank you very much in advance!

Well, here is a trailer with dumping bed which can be tilted (but no 3-side as with the unimog bed - IMHO this is not really necessary for such a trailer) by the pass through PTO described in my posting above: This trailer is inspired by the 8063 Trailer and by a trailer made by EB member dr_spock (which is also the designer of the pass through PTO as mentioned above). In fact: It is the 8063 trailer with slightly wider bed, bigger wheels and ability being connected to a mechanical PTO. In addition the tilting still can be manually operated. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full power-gear train is completely my own MOD. The original 8063 trailer has a nice stand that can be deployed via a lever mechanism that keeps the trailer upright when it is not attached to the towing vehicle. I wanted this stand being preserved because it works well and it is simply necessary for a trailer with such an axle layout: Preserving this stand makes a it little bit tricky to integrate a well braced and geared down gear-train from the coupling to the LA-base - details can be see below. In addition i wanted to apply as few as possible modifications to the original trailer: just a 2L wider bed (for better scale for the Unimog) and 1L more space between the two axles cause of the bigger balloon tires (also for better scale to the Unimog). So the complete tilting mechanism is 100% original from the 8063 trailer incl the mountings of the LA. Apart from the very simple and obvious changes for the wider bed and the by 1 stud moved forward 1. axle the complete additional power gear-train can be applied more or less between step 21 and 22 of the original BI of the 8063 trailer: (The picture above still shows the original axle layout of the 8063 trailer - if you want to mount the big balloon tires you need 1L more space between the two axles (so the 1.axle must be moved forward 1 stud) and you need longer axles (i used DBG axle 8 with stop, 55013) and changed chassis-axle-layout with better support for the bigger wheels: Some detail-shots of the gear-train: The gear train is two times geared down for maximum lifting power... the reduction shown here is a good compromise between power and lifting speed... More detailshots can be found in my bricksafe folder: http://bricksafe.com...Unimog/Trailers EDIT: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf to bricksafe

Most of the entries until now are very good Mini Models, but - as always in life - there is one absolutely outstanding: yours! Just triple awesome. If Not the winner then i would at least vote for a HoF entry!

IMHO the pictures above show all necessary point of views to rebuild the cylinder base ... but you can take a look into my bricksafe folder for the Unimog MODS: http://bricksafe.com...lting mechanism - maybe you find there what you are searching for... have fun reengineering... Now prosecution from here: http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1939279 - added another MOD... 6. Adding a PTO pass trough for the crane - switchable between turning the crane and passing through the PTO: PTO 1 has same speed as the PTO of the chassis, PTO 2 is slightly geared down (12:20) This enhances the flexibility of the Unimog a lot beause now you can add any PTO powered trailer even with back-attached crane... If you want rebuild then in my brickshelf folder you will find a lot of detail shots which should make the build quite easy... Again this MOD is not from myself but it is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved. Highly recommened! Thank you, dr_spock, for providing me these 3 detailshots! One detail shot: This axle 7L forces all pneumatic tubings to the left of the grey base-frame and so prevents from rubbing onto the pass through axles... rest of detailshots you can find here: http://bricksafe.com...TO Pass through EDIT: Replaced all links and pictures to brickshelf by bricksafe

Thanks, but the real thanks have to go to the named builders.. my own merits are mainly investing some brain power to re-engineer the bed from some not always meaningful pictures (but obviously they were good enought ;-) and to make some more detailed pictures of the involved new components...

Here is my modified Unimog - a compilation of several already existing MODs or at least inspired from them... 1. Pneumatic driven bed which can be tilted to all 3 sides: It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! :thumbup: Here are some details: The rotary cylinder base (inspired from barman but not sure if he uses 100% the same solution because neither his nor tripletschiees pictures of the cylinder base show many details - anyway: my solution works very well...) (The long black axle is also the mounting of the new double pump - s.b.) The connection to the bed (completely "stolen" from tripletschiee, a very simple and intelligent solution ) The 3-side/locking mechanism (dito tripletschiee ) - with the LBG handles left and right you can enable the tilting side: Mounting the locking mechanism to the chassie: The pneumatic valve for bed tilting (completely my own solution - i wanted the full Unimog handling on the same side): Cause of this feature i had to discard placing the battery box in the middle of the back wall of the bed (for better balancing of the Unimog)... but it was worth it ;-) - Currently i'm thinking about adding a train weight (73090a) on the motor side to enhance the weight balance of the Mog - but i'm not sure if the effect will be worth it... 2. Steering modifications: There are two problems which needed being fixed: a) better steering lock/angle: This can be done by replacing the 4 3/4 pins (DBG) by 4 1/2 pins (LBG). Removing the pins completely is not the best solution because then the tires can rub on the chassis when suspension is compressed and you will steer... b) making the steering easier - out of the box it is way to hard - this is not only cause of the high friction of the tires but also cause of 4 red friction pins involved. In addition the whole front axle has a strong bump steer. well, i have tried several solutions: - Nicjasnos complete new front axle: this one has by far the best suspension and steering and reduces the bump steer a lot. BUT: it looks to bulky and therefore the look isn't realistic for a Unimog... therefore i have discarded it after building, installing and testing - applying the full fix of Junkstyle Gio (http://www.eurobrick...1) which replaces all 4 friction pins with frictionless-replacements: this makes the steering indeed very easy but on the other side now each grain of dust colliding with a front wheel can change the steering angle...it's too easy.. Therefore i have applied only the half of the fix of Junkstyle Gio so its a mixture of friction and frictionless pins --> IMHO is the best compromise of easyness and stability for the steering and the look of the front-axle: well done fixing ideas of Junkstyle Gio :thumbup: 3. working steering wheel Here i have 99% applied the solution of tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin :thumbup: here are some details, especially of the mounting of the orange panels on the steering side (cause of the geartrain for the working steering wheel you can not use the mounting shown in the BI): 4. Double pump IMHO the single pump is a little weak driving the crane of the Unimog. Cause of the tilting bed i have no internal room for an air tank - so i have doubled up the pump of the compressor. Now there is plenty of air power to drive any attachment. As a side effect this prevents the kind of rattling noise coming from the pump (From technicbricks: "I guess the air should start to leak somewhere. Likely from the pump seals, as the generated resistance is not enough to stop or even slow down the PF M-motor") - when using a double pump the generated resistent is enough to stop the motor afgter ~ 2 or 3 spins if no operation of any of the cylinders takes place - which is IMHO a good effect (at least if it lasts not longer than some seconds). As the picture below shows it is quite obvious how to install the second pump - but the mounting has to be integrated with the rotary cylinder base of the tilting bed) 5. Using a PF switch switching direction via battery box is always a pain --> therefore i have added a PF switch - IMHO quite well integrated (and nowhere stolen ;-) here the detail shot for the needed change on the cabin to add mounting points for the switch: Overall i'm now quite satisfied with air-power, steering, suspension, looks, playablitiy and features... More pictures can be found in my bricksafe-Folder: http://bricksafe.com...ODs/8110 Unimog EDIT: Just replaced the links to brickshelf by bricksafe

Hi, can stalling somehow damage a PF motor? Of course i only mean short time stalling, so e.g. just 1 to 3 seconds - but repeatedly? Thanks for your answer.

...and 8271 wheel loader and 8284 tractor...

well, than i did all right

yes, thanks to all who have answered - its the 48496... now i can order... BTW: how to identify a part if you have no idea in which set it could be contained?

Hi, can anybody tell me which part is this: I mean this black gear-"cage"... Thanks a lot!

thank you for your answer - sounds reasonable... i think i will collect the missing ~150 parts for the basic truck - its a good looking color scheme... well, hard to describe - the feelings are a mix of - a lot of black-red-yellow ;-) - crazy - incredulity To be honest: sure, it was a quite good performance of "La Mannschaft" but Brazil had such a horrible day (all players without exception) that Germany had an easy going... BTW: i would have nothing against a 40th anniversary relaunch of the '74 final - hopefully with the same result ;-) - so i wish you good luck tonight...

thank you for the hint! BTW: Juergen, ist there any functional disadvantage of the basic version? Comparing the two rebrickable sets shows, that - apart from the colorsheme substitutions 7 universal joints 3L and 2 Technic Axle Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise are used in the Deluxe but not in the basic one... has this any functional consequences? Thank you very very much for offering this awesome truck!

@dropship: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88601 (see 4.)

well, probably you (and Jim) are right, so: please appologize...