Kumbbl

couldn_t say it better - if all often praised funtions in MOCs or other brands would work so well as this ghost mode (in the videos i could watch until today), than ........ ;-) Concerning funtion-fails the new 1:8 incarnation is by far the most promising so far... for sure it will not be flawless, but as i said: promising...

Couldn‘t say it better….

The SMART BRICK is just the final proof that the people making product decisions at LEGO don’t have even the slightest clue about what makes good toys. In Star Wars, the Smart Brick is the equivalent of the failed Control+ system in Technic. Ever higher prices with ever lower quality — that pretty much sums up LEGO today in one sentence. Unfortunately.

I have a fairly clear opinion about the whole electronics and remote-control issue with Lego: Lego has always been a toy, or rather a platform, that lasts for decades and that you could keep for your grandchildren. Old 8480 Space Shuttles still work wonderfully after 30 years, provided they were stored well. The cables can be re-crimped with a bit of skill and then they are as good as new. Power Functions based models anyway. Why? Because everything is based zero percent on software, pure hardware. As long as batteries exist, all of this will continue to work — even for my grandchildren — all the classic models from the old 90s classics (8480, 8868, etc.) up to the last cool PF-based ones like the 42030 Loader. In contrast: everything (sic!) that somehow relies on software protocols — such as apps on some smartphone — has a very limited half-life. It is 100% impossible that any of this will still work in 30 years; very likely not even in 10 years anymore. In many areas this is perfectly fine — but not for a toy platform like Lego. To put it bluntly: I will carefully store all the top models from the Lego Technic era up to and including the end of Power Functions, and my grandchildren will be able to have wonderful times with them. Everything after that is, in my opinion, a complete misdevelopment, because it is phone- and app-based and therefore practically destined, from birth and by definition, for the medium-term trash bin. A waste of money. And I’m not some nostalgic technophobe: cutting-edge AI and IT are part of my everyday work, both professionally and privately. But they have no place in high-quality toys. Take it with a grain of salt — I deliberately exaggerated a bit to illustrate the core problem of the current Lego Technic development. Smartphones can also be good devices for children if used sensibly, but making this most short-lived technology a prerequisite for the playability of hardware toys is a complete misstep. That’s why, for me, Lego after Power Functions is dead. ps. As a successor to Power Functions, they could have developed Bluetooth-based components for all I care — but with a physical remote control, so that the required protocol would be permanently “baked into” the hardware components and the only requirement for them to function would be a power supply. The dependency on updates and software platforms such as apps is the real problem.

Just an information: Model SOLD

Sorry for bumping - but it seems that a least some people would be not uninterested in building this model... In the very first post of this thread you can see my photos of the model. Unfortunately, it has been sitting in the attic of our house for years now — my son is no longer interested in it, and, if I’m honest, I really need to make some space. It was a truly great and challenging build experience, and I don’t like parting with such special models, but: I would be willing to sell the model fully assembled, i.e. including all required (and in some cases absurdly expensive) parts — including the building instructions from Blakbird with all unclear sections thoroughly clarified by me, detailed pneumatic and electrical schematics (including precise hose and cable lengths), and all other necessary notes. Important: all PDFs will of course be included for free, since they didn’t cost me anything either. I am not trying to make money from this model; I’m happy to let it go for a fair price — offers welcome via PM. To the mods: sorry if this offer is misplaced here, but I thought it fit, since there has been interest in the model in the comments. Please let me know if this should or must be posted elsewhere.

The decisive success factor for a successful repair is using a highly flexible 24-AWG silicone ribbon cable. 24-AWG wires with PVC insulation are too stiff for the small IDC blades. With soft silicone insulation, however, it works well. About 4 out of 5 repair attempts are successful with this. so, great videos linked above…

No worries, you were not too harsh… you were right ;-)

yes you are right, i should switch my brain on before posting.... so sorry fopr the noise - and a big thank you vor the links, very helpful for getting the right product....

Hi all, I want to repair old LEGO 9V cables whose insulation has deteriorated, while the 2x2 connectors are still intact. There are videos online that explain quite well what needs to be done—how you can replace the cable without soldering, just by crimping. Unfortunately, most 0.14 mm² stranded wires have slightly thicker insulation than the old, almost rubber-like (probably silicone-based) original leads. The old LEGO 9V plugs aren’t classic crimp contacts anyway, but so-called IDC contacts (Insulation Displacement Connector). For these, the wire needs to be extremely soft and easy for the tiny blades to pierce. So my question to you all: has anyone done this successfully—and if so, do you have specific product recommendations for a suitable wire? Ideally product recommendations for such stranded wire that can be obtained in Germany, or at least within the EU? Thanks a lot in advance! BR

very cool - kudos

42043 Arocs: The best of the big models - by a wide margin - reasons have already been adequately mentioned above. 8455 Pneumatic Backhoe: a true marvel of Lego engineering - assembling it repeatedly brings a broad smile to the face and waves of admiration for the designer - I think every technic-enthusiast should have built this thing once in their life.

@brunojj1: Without wanting to add fuel to the fire here, I have to make one final comment (from a german "Schlaumeier"): You're almost a reason not to buy anything from CADA anymore, as much as I like some of the models... Your dramatically underlined withdrawal is really no great loss for mankind and for the Lego world ... it seems as if your - admittedly outstanding - lego design skills have left some other competencies atrophied - jm2c

I would recommend building the linked „pimp up my Porsche“ instead of the errata, because it contains all fixes of these errata und something more and has on top full blown pdf step by step BI from scratch… hard to get a better Porsche-package ;-)

The above linked „pimp up my Porsche“ has included this feature too… version 1.4 is strongly recommended: This is the Porsche that Lego should have brought out from the start of 42056: full featured, flawless und highly playable…

Rarely seen a more out of place, more arrogant posting. Seems like someone's success has gone to their head... The last paragraph in particular speaks volumes about your mindset... very disconcerting Sorry for the strong words...

Interesting topic… I can't judge the current status, as I haven't done much with Lego in recent years. But up until 2017 I built quite a few mocs, some highly complex with expensive BI, from "well-known" builders. Most of them were fun and I would never have been able to design these models myself. But what I can do: evaluate the quality and thoughtfulness of solutions, components, drive trains, stability, intelligent use of certain parts, etc. And there is actually a huge difference between most of the MoCers and official Lego sets. Even if there are some outliers in the sets, no question... But there is (at least) one exception, which in my eyes also shows the difference, unfortunately an exception that at least doesn't seem to create technic MOCs anymore: Nathanael Kuipers (aka nkubate): who has ever built one of his MOCS, knows what true design quality is: if you think to yourself with every part: „damn, there is no better solution for this“ and building it always puts a grin on your face because you are flashed by the recognizable ingenuity of the solution, the part-use, the clarity, the structural stability and last but not least the simplicity - and simplicity is meant here as a big compliment. As St Exupéry said: "Perfection is not achieved when you can't add anything more, but when you can't leave anything out" Nkubate designed his nevertheless complex and astonishing MOCs with exactly this in mind (recommendation: building his Predator supercar MOC from about 2016. Today maybe slightly outdated but a really very very satisfying and sometimes jaw dropping building with xperience). Really good Lego sets also follow this guiding principle. Whereas many MOCers seem to follow the exact opposite of this wise quote of St. Exupéry. And here it comes: Nathanael was an official Lego designer before his MOCer career... To make a long story short: IMHO MOCs often have interesting functions and replicate real looks more precisely. But very often at the price of a really only sufficient and poor design quality when viewed “in the light of day“ With many Lego sets it is the other way around Just my 2 ct

thank you very much.... if i understand you right, you have used @jb70 's BI und added your mods, right? i have already built the 1.1 Pimp up your Lambo so now i would be very convenient, which steps have to be changed - so for example i'm wondering if you have changed anything in book1 because all changes to the exterior are in book2...? so: is there a chance easily finding the changes between the 1.1 Pimp Lambo and your MODs? again thanks a lot!

well, maybe a little OT here, but lets talk about the gearbox of the Sian, because it is a good example for what i want to say: TLG often compromises a design for the sake being as easy as possible to build. i have build the Lambo Sian out of the box as guided by the official TLG instructions and i have build it a second time with the wonderful enhancements of @jb70 and @Didumos69 - of course the resulting gearbox of the "pimp up my Lambo", designed by @jb70and @Didumos69, is way better than the one designed by TLG: less friction, less gear mesh, more compact - BUT: the design of TLG is without any doubt easier to build without bad performance - not so well working as @jb70's one but still a reasonable performance - i for myself like the little challenges of designs like that one of @jb70, but i'm sure a lot of people out there, the key customers of the Sian, prefer the easier build - and the experts of a forum like EB are NOT the key customers of a model like the Sian... so my conclusion: The requirement specification for the TLG designers contain some goals which have nothing to do with the plain functions or looks of a model.... just my 2 cts

god, i love this - such a leap forward in playability... well, old style dispatcher gearboxes save space but are mostly much worse to use: you need always two hands, one on the battery switch for changing direction (with the additional pain sliding unintentionally over neutral position), one on the function-switcher...

@jb70: your 1.1 pimp up your Lambo is a pure pleasure to build - not so babylike as the standard lego BI but with a little challenge... the only feature i have rolled back is the added friction for the rear spoiler --> this prevents the spoiler using the full travelpath - but apart from this: my hat to you, sir jb70 ;-) surely one of the best and most elaborated supercars out there and by far the best of your three pimped cars - the packed drivetrains are a pure pleasure... some steps have to build with a slighly differing part sequence but overall the BI is absolutely satisfying! Thanks a lot for offering for free!!

Hi, first of all thanks a lot for this beautiful and nifty MOC! But i have a question about the rear steering.... when built as shown in the BI then there is more or less no steering lock an the rear wheels cuase of s lot of backlash and restitance of the rear axle steering arms/mechanism I suppose the performance of the rear steering depends strongly on the resistance of the combination of the 57515 dark bluish gray steering arms and the x873c01 Technic 4 Ball Joint Steering Arm With 3 Pin Base - if both were too strong then the rear steering performance is quite low... if you find a pair with a not too strong connection then it works great... therefore my question: anybody out there with the same finding and how to change the linkage resulting in bigger rear steering lock?

one of the most sophisticated replys i have seen here....well spoken. And: cleverly constructed and designed (meant in the sense like e.g. N. Kuipers designs and uses parts: which is the best part in a certain situation and always with the goal in mind to make a rigid and suitable construction) i see really no problems to produce a very playable model from a set of about 4000 parts - even more with quite direct drive trains as with the case of 7 motors some counterexamples like the bugatti doesn't be playable cause of having too many parts or weight but only (and really ONLY) cause of the lack of a proper design...

@NKubate: i also appreciate a lot your write ups - please go on... thanks a lot

Eric, very interesting reading material... i fully agree with you concerning the "over-designed" bugatti... but i'm quite sure there are some constraints for the TLG designers imposed by Bugatti... i'm very sure that your suspension geometry would have been never rubberstamped by Bugatti because the real suspension layout is completely different... same for the closed underbottom... Nevertheless eager awaiting further progress and maybe BI for "your" incarnation of the Chiron !