Krxlion

Hi everyone! Not so long ago, I presented a WIP project I was working on, a 2WD Drift car. So the question is, why am I showing you this model. Actually, the best answer would be that I gave up too fast on the previous one and immediately move to the smaller scale. During building this model, I came to the realization that the problem with drifting in the previous car was not with tires (although suited drift wheels are much better), but with the floor I was testing it on. From that moment on, I was testing the model in a different place, where the floor is made out of wooden panels. Features Locked 4WD with different speeds on axles(front 1:1, rear 1:1666) Positive caster angle Working front and rear lights suited for Lego Regular Lego 49.5 mm wheels (15413+56145) Opening trunk Powered by RC setup (with gyro function - helps counter-steer) Design After the first failed attempt to build a drift car fully out of Lego bricks, I still wanted to use rubber tires and achieve my goals. In the time I was starting to build the model, there were at least two similar cars posted, which reminded me about @Anto Hoonicorn MOC. I wanted to preserve his idea of front axle in my MOC and enhance my model by giving its rear axle faster rotation speed, thus making it slip faster. The source of power still remained in A2212 BL motor, in the drivetrain you can see that it was geared down by planetary wheel hub. Model is steered by geek-servo directly connected to the axle, which controls the steering rack. Legend (explanation on stud.io bricks presented in the picture above) 4x yellow stacked 28-tooth gears are in fact a A2212 motor Grey bricks shaped in 5x3x3 are in fact a geek-servo More renders and pictures below Non-Lego parts usage RC setup (DumboRC X6FG, 35 ESC SurpassHobby, SOARIN2 S 1300mAh 7.4V 30C, A2212 1000kv brushless motor, geek-servo, Lucas Oil for lubrication) 1x metal U-joint 4x 1x3 trans-red plates from CADA Finally, I got a short video presenting the model Mass 770g Dimensions 30 x 15.2 x 12.1 cm Scale 1:12.5 GALLERY

Oh yes! I can already see by the look of those pictures it is very robust, which I love. I remember when I saw your Greyhound and wanted to build something very similar to it! Furthermore, I was continuously watching your heavy-duty wheel hubs videos, haha. One thing I really hope you will still preserve is that smooth working suspension. The weight to chosen springs was marvelous. Please polish the model as much as you can and hopefully we will see a full video soon, so we can learn a few things ourselves. ;) PS About new hubs, am I the only one that feel like the ones with planetary reduction have better grip than newest from Audi RS Etron? But don't get me wrong, they are both very good at keeping those wheels, but I find planetary ones to that job better.

Exactly my feeling. I enjoy those fancy new builds with a lot of SYSTEM bricks, but the old good full technic builds are the ones I frist feel in love with. :D I am curious does that relatively small model needs 4 motors? :O There are another two pillars next to A pillars in the car which I particulalry don't like and the ones inside interior of the car, but I guess those are some construction points, which would be hard to remove.

I am also looking forward into that project as well :) You are fighting the only nightmare I have with RC components in Lego, which is putting stuff in one or two cases with minimal visible wires :D

Hi @Lixander, I do not know if you are refering to my comment, but we were talking about fitting A2212 brushless motor inside XL motor case, including planetary transmission. Based on my experience it is pretty much impossible to do without cutting the back of it, but I would be more than happy to be wrong. :D

It doesn't really matter, you can always drill slowly a bigger hole in the metal gear. I could fit it nicely in a A2212 shaft, but the motor is simply too big, no matter what I do I wouldn't fit it in the XL motor case. I would need to cut the back of the XL motor case like in the MaxBrix video. :/ It is weird that your motor is glued :O I have one servomotor from mouldkind and I could take it apart.

I have tried fitting A2212 motor inside the XL PF motor. It could be done I believe, but there are few buts: 1. Ventilation of the motor (you would need to drill some holes in XL motor case) 2. Housing inside the XL motor case (it was kinda woobly for me, but it could use more work) I could give it a second try, because I have some spare XL motors, which are third party, but I am afraid I would need some 3d printed parts inside to fit it in XL motor transmission correctly. ;)

I like it very much, also the wheels look really cool on this one. I am also working slowly on a drift car, but I moved to smaller scale for now. My previous WIP model is put on hold and may be abandon, because I couldn't drift using regaulr 56mm Lego tires, but this could be due to high floor tracking and on upper floor I have better floor, so maybe I will get back to it. I am waiting for a video on this one, because I am curious how it performs, great job regarding look of the car once again and fitting all the elements inside. :)

Thank you Ryokeen, with this one I am familiar with, because it gets updated pretty frequently :)

I am as surprised as you, thank you for finding this topic. I will bookmark this thread for sure, the text itself provide a lot of knowledge. You should be proud of yourself Zerobricks and with little bit of spare time you could update this topic. Various things changed since 2019.

Let's take 1200 RPM as example: If you calculate that by with wheel diameter (107mm) you can get around 24km/h and this is just a beginning. With 2k RPM and using 3s batteries the speed would skyrocket. Regarding "go without it", I meant that small metal brass that fill the grove so the motor case would not slide from the interior of A2212.

Well done @Krzychups. I am so happy that someone from my own country is doing so much stuff with Lego Technic and now I can see that you are also moving towards the dark side of 3rd party components, haha. :D From my experience A2212 motors are more than enough for Lego Technic usage, more power might simply not hold other Lego components (if we are talking about pure Technic model and only power source with electronic is the only 3rd party component). Regarding your gearbox I believe going with planetary setup might be better. Just look at MaxBrix YT video. He powered old PF XL motor case with even stronger motor than A2212: This man is very close to ideal motor (at least for me) - 1200-2000 RPM, but those RPMs are build with a lot of torque. What we would need to even spice things up is ESC with possibility to slowly speed up the motor, so we could create also crawlers with brushless motors. @gyenesvi mention about that part in different topic. :) I want to also highlight the great advantage of A2212 motors (or similar to those) - those are 14-poles motors, which means you have more precise control instead of 4-pole, like the one in film above or those ZENE is advertising. I don't say those are bad (I have two of those) but in precise control of maybe offroad vehicles it makes more sense to go with as many pole as you have. PS The shaft on the A2212 can be reversed, although you would need to create that little groove to hold the motor housing. Nevertheless, sometimes I go without it.

About that part, I was thinking would they not wear out(pneumatic cylinders), because of dirt coming straight to those pistons. I recon those elements are not that cheap, so I wouldn't go so wild with those.

Indeed great design, in your slowed fragments of video we can clearly see you did a good job with that suspension! The exterior looks pleasant and overall perfomance of the car is great! I was for sure thinking that it is powered by some sort of brushless motor, but I am more and more surprised by performance of buggy motors plugged to RC system. The usage of technic pistons is very catchy and it does great job. I am waiting for more MOCs from your side, thanks for sharing :)

Really detailed model full of functions! I never had a chance to build original model but yours looks like it has a lot of playability. One small note from my side regarding presentation, the photos could be smaller (around 2/3 of its size), because it is hard to take full picture of the model in one look. Anyway, good job and keep up the good work! :)

One note from my side regarding pre-defined receiver if included. Please aim with something that has gyro functionality. This thing can really help control fast models and mostly those are the ones we aim for if we are using 3rd party solutions. :) As everyone else mentioned geek-servo is the best solution for small motor that could be used not only as servomotor, but as switch for locking differentials or switching gears.

That is some good research @gyenesvi. I would really like to test it out with brushless motors I own. I am just wondering if transmitter that I have is capable of handling all this functionality or does I need to change the whole setup (I am using DumboRC X6FG).

I really like that you elaborated your product. I am sure that someone (me included) that is interested in third party solutions for powering their MOC might choose your product. I don't know if this is not a problem that you made this topic to kinda just promote your product and answer questions (I am not bothered about that cause I find it interesting ). Anyway, nice presentation and I am looking forward for some MOCs from your side that are powered by your system!

Hello and welcome in 2024! Today after quite a break (due to moving to a new house) I present you... Well, it does not have a name yet. Although it is kinda based on real car - Ford Probe II (which I own myself). The idea was to create a version of mentioned real car, but with rear wheels drive so it would be able to drift. After some time spent in the building process I convinced myself that I will simply go with the flow regarding body and just slightly base on Ford Probe II. Features Locked 2WD (rear wheels) Double-wishbone suspension Camber (provide less tire contact with the surface and helps drifting) V6 fake engine Regular Lego 56mm wheels (56908+41897) Manual pop-up headlights Powered by RC setup (with gyro function - helps counter-steer) Design The initial idea was to create a car in roughly 1:12 / 1:10 scale that is able to drift with rubber tires. To help achieving this I immediately knew that I need a camber in the car (this section was heavily inspired by plastic gear YT channel). For differential I went with an old 28-tooth one, because this is the only one (I believe) that can be locked. I also wanted to finally have fake V6 engine in my MOC, so by placing another 20-tooth gear in the back of the frame it not only helped transfer rotation to V6 section, but also secured differential, so it cannot skip gears. Source of power comes from A2212 BL motor, it is then transfered to Lego system using slight modification in its shaft (I explained this topic a little bit in one of my previous posts. If you want me to elaborate it deeply, please let me know :). I then gained torque but decreased speed using 46490 wheel hub as transmission. The steering is done by geek-servo, although I have a problem with those, because in fact they are not fully rotating +90/-90 degree, so I needed to put 20-tooth gear first and follow it by 12-tooth so it rotates slightly more than +/- 90 degrees. This solution provides a massive steering angle, which cost me giving up on regular wheel panel arches. So does it drift, that is the question. Answer is yes and no, what I mean by that is that without a body it does have a perfect 50/50 front/rear balance and tuning the gyro helps even further with drifting. I recently started to work on a body and sometimes I do test-drives and I can see heavy impact of that extra bricks. With the body now placed mainly in the front of the car it is a lot harder to handle and it mostly spins like most of lego "drift" cars. We will need to wait for final results after I finish the whole body and tweak everything. The video will be for sure, but not yet (need to learn properly how to drive it and build body ). Time for some renders and pictures Legend (explanation on stud.io bricks presented in the topic) 4x yellow stacked 28-tooth gears are in fact a A2212 motor Red bricks shaped in 5x3x3 are in fact a geek-servo Gloss 11x3 panels with some other bricks that are in two 5x7 technic frames are in fact a battery Front axle close-up Rear axle close-up Built MOC Partly finished body Non-Lego parts usage RC setup (DumboRC X6FG, 35 ESC SurpassHobby, GensAce LiPo 1800mah 11.1V, A2212 1000kv brushless motor, geek-servo, Lucas Oil for lubrication) 2x 3L axle cut to 2,5L (used in driveshaft in each wheel, because of non-standard length) 2x half bush cut in half, so it is 0.25 stud long (used in driveshaft in each wheel, because of non-standard length) 2x metal U-joints Mass (without body) 706g Dimensions (without body) 21.3 x 33.6 x 8.5 cm Scale around 1:11 Gallery

@aFrInaTi0n I see a potential of a small drift car in this body :D

Great timing @FriedlS I am currently working on a drift car myself. Have you got any experience, advice with 1:12 in this topic? I try to create a camber axles, to have less tire contact, so it would slip easier. I am planning on using regular 56mm rubber tires with matching wheels and of course A2212 BL motor. :) Your build feels really like a drift car and you did not use tape on tires or plastic wheels, which is I really appreciate. It reminds me of one MOC - Ford Mustang Hoonicorn, Ken Block's car, from "Anto". Keep up the great work!

That is astonishing model @Zerobricks! I am wondering if you could make a close-up of one of the axles (I am interested in this "one CV joint" system). You could build a separate axle and show some more photos, because idea is very unusual, yet very practical and robust. I am planning in far future build a 1:12 drift car, using same wheels and your MOC is something like a kick in the butt to let start working on it, but currently time only allows me to watch your all MOCs guys. Wish you all the best and thank you for another brilliant build!

Great job, Zerobricks! I am gonna definitely try out this build one day. The potential of modification is very wide like you explained in the video.

I couldn't resist but to reply to your topic with a picture of MY Ford Probe that I drive daily! But to not off-top completely, I think the best idea would be to aim for 1:10/1:12 scale or even smaller. Building bigger scale would be too much of a challenge for a first try. Sariel's MOC designer can help you a lot with keeping perfect measurements of the model. Wish you a good luck and please share any news if you will have progressed on this matter. I will try to build the car myself, but in dark bluish 1/12 scale(based on FORD GT Lego model).

Sheeeesh! What a model, I already commented your video, but I will also speak few words here. First of all, you made me dust out my two Buwizz 3.0 units, just to take a look at that gearbox module in the app! The idea of having two separate driveshafts is a definition of thinking outside of the box, great! Front suspension is something that I was aiming a while back and trying to do in my own MOC, but we will see in the future. I see that the rear one is acting a little bit pendular as well, which is quite nice. I guess due to pendular type of suspension and long steering arms it could act a little too "wobbly" on high speed, but I do not count it as big disadvantage (after all this is an off-road vehicle). I think that 3-speed gearbox is something phenomenal in such small model and we can see for sure an upgrade from previous version, but I believe that two-speed are ideal for multipurpose car. @gyenesvi created a simple and robust gearbox in his C-model of Zetros with 3:1 and 1:1 gear ratio. With new bricks, we could squish that gearbox into 4 stud area, which just blows my mind. Anyway, I think that this model is the best one in being versatile of all the models (that uses Technic and Buwizz) I know. Great job and looking forward to your next projects!.