Krxlion

I don't have to do anything special to drive my model in the snow. I haven't experience any issues like you with the tires. Maybe your 2nd brand tires are not perfectly fitting Lego rims? I do like cruising with my models in the snow, but this one handles it best, thanks to a lot of ground clearance. Looking forward to see your model, and thanks for the suggestions, I might take a look at those when designing new model.

Ha! I think you mean RC oil shocks, right? :D Maybe I will dig into this topic, but I still believe I need to build overall better models to elevate their potential with further RC equipment. Speed, yes. Though you guys have very robust models, hard to beat in heavy off-roading. My model is still in the middle ground, as I pursue this dream of having one car designed for everything (though it mostly not work best in either scenarios - crawling vs cruising). I would like to see your approach with this body! Though it is designed for smaller off-roader, I usually aim at 1:10 scale, with my models. ;) I am not using 3-pin solution with my portals, the wheel holds just on one axle with two half bushes, acting as brackets for the wheel. They are holding well when crawling, when speeding my fiancee managed to lose one wheel after brutally driving it for 2 minutes. I was not a fan of using this one axle solution, but all in all it is acceptable. I thought that the wheel would slip much often. I believe that with bigger tire, that would require a half-bush spacer it would fall off much often, because there would be space for only one half-bush. Also, I don't know why, but yellow half bushes might be better for this job. I read in Sariel's book, that yellow color in Lego is more sturdy than others. This might be just a weird feeling, but I only use those whenever I can. I agree that the placement of shock absorbers isn't ideal. Initially, I was planning to put them closer to the axle, ideally above the driveline to each of wheels, but I wasn't able to do so. I also was messing a lot with geometry to achieve positive caster on the front, and changing shock absorber would most likely mean re-designing positive caster. Center of the mass isn't that bad. I would assume that with this amount of space under the chasis it will roll over a lot (for example just like in the video), but the angle when car no longer is able to stand, but rolls over is around 46 degree (this is side tilt). Regarding tilting to back, I couldn't go over 50 degree, because car kept sliding from plastic board, on which I was measuring all the angles. I think the car could have tilted a few more degrees before it started to fall backwards.

Hello Guys! Today I will be presenting yet another off-road model, capable of both crawling and cruising. If you are into details, skip the Backstory part, and go straight to overview. Backstory After losing in "Lego Truck Trial Championship" held in Poland, I've thought on ways of improving performance in my MOCs. My previous model (TRX-4) was having one major flaw - ground clearance. I started working right away on axles, that could offer better results in this area. On top of that, I knew that going with live axle, instead of double-wishbone can further increase ground clearance in central part of the model. Here, after 4 months of work, I present 4x4 Tarantula buggy/rock crawler, based on Injora Tarantula body for various rock crawlers/buggies, which I've been inspiring on through building process. General assumptions and features Large ground clearance Permanent 4x4 drive & locked differentials (to offer more off-road performance) Two-speed gearbox Model fit new 90mm RC tires, which I have learned about during LTTC Expand space between front and rear axle (this is beneficial for long steep climbs, but negative for short ones) Cover the bottom of the car Minimalistic body (keeping the car weight as low as possible) More mass on front than rear Brushless RC setup Trying other color than dark bluish gray for the body :) Model weights 1.49 kg Light bar on top of the car can be turned on, but I have not showed this feature here or in video Axles Front axle idea is an adapted solution from @gyenesvi. I bought couple of red steering arms (32195b) and started experimenting. They work great with TLG planetary hubs and other similar ones, but mine brick build were breaking, using this solution. I needed a way to hold both wishbones firmly, without connecting them one to another - this was impossible due to unusual angle the lower wishbone was placed in. This section have some slight stress connections (similar to one @gyenesvi had with his connection), but nothing that cause potential break of parts. On top of that, front axle features positive caster angle and ackermann steering geometry. Regarding linkages, it is triangulated 4-link. I was previously experimenting with 9L links like Viktor's Toyota Hilux had, but they were disconnecting like hell. :D I finally set on brick build links that create an angle, but I think better solution would be to define required angles first and then one long liftarm with steering arm with ball socket connected to it - again, I know a person that already done this couple of times. :D Suspension I finally got my hands on original Lego 9.5L hard yellow springs. I decided to use them only at front, as this section is much heavier compared to rear one. On top of that, front suspensions uses also rubber connectors(part 45590). That solution protects underneath of electronic box (where I store all rc components, except motor) when arms get close to that section, the rubber part gets squeezed, acting like a second-stage shock absorption. Rear axle suspension is using combination of soft 9.5L shock absorbers (part 2909c3) and 11L shock absorbers with internal spring (part 65151c01). Gearbox and driveline From my latest experience, using orange part 35188 (changeover rotary catch) for selecting clutch gears have far better results than red 6641 part. This is because of force pushing out the parts, trying to eject driving rings from gear clutches. Furthermore, the key for me to finally make really solid gearbox was securing it in all 3 dimensions, each time from both side. I wanted to achieve high speed difference between low and high gear. Final gear ratios (with motor planetary reduction and 90mm wheels to calculate theoretical speed) are: 1st: 50:1 - top speed: 4.275 km/h 2nd: 18:1 - top speed: 11.88 km/h Steering hubs I didn't want to go with usual planetary hubs, because of two factors. They do not offer additional ground clearance and are not as effective, because of how they are designed. Designing my own brick build steering hubs was the toughest part of the project. I went through multiple solutions to get the result I wanted. I don't want to reveal too much of how they are built, it will be a little secret for now. However, I suspect with some reverse engineering people around here will be able to re-create them. The key features of them are: Sturdiness (when I try stopping the wheel manually by hand, the spinning wheel ejects instead of destroying the whole hub) Offers multiple gear ratios Lesser offset than 92908+92909 hub Decent steering radius Works with heavy-duty CV joint Fits 49294 rim Can fit bigger tires like 107mm with additional half bush as a spacer (but creates bigger offset) Model with bigger 107mm tires Ground clearance - over 6 studs in the center of the car Notes Car have additional feature, which is snap on body. It holds firmly using 3 pins on each side. No need to remove them, just gently pull apart left and right side of the body and lift it. I have secured ball pins in various spots with 1L bar with tow ball on it (part 22484). Sometimes I do not include those small differences between actual model and digital Studio one. All universal joints are swapped to metal ones. Although, I am not sure if that is needed. The angles that they are working on are not great, so they should hold quite nicely. All driveline parts are lubricated, using silicone spray. Final thoughts It most likely not the end of this model. I am planning on brining it to next LTTC in the open category again. I want to test it out in field. I also want to share more crawling experience that this truck gives (I might create another video). Further improvements may be like making it 6x6 for even more performance or adapting it to BuWizz system as I have recently bought 4 their motors and still got two BuWizzes 3.0. Gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/197903409@N05/albums/72177720331372698 And finally a VIDEO of more speedy off-roading

Am I seeing correctly, it offers two steering axles? :D I've seen this concept a while ago, but I don't remember who did it. I guess with your knowledge on programming those ESCs, you will manage creating great off-roader. Are you planning on implementing "electronic differential" or those wheels will spin all with the same speed?

I really like it, Viktor. I especially love the "no-lower" linkage function. If it works and improves the ground clearance. I think that your instruction is very beneficial for people on their journey in 6x6 off-road trucks. Moreover, from the many, many trucks out there, Zil is the one that catches my eye. I have a few questions, if I may: 1. What is that brick (3rd picture) in the center, under the back 15L LBG liftarm? It is located inside the standard technic frame. Looks like 3L flip-flop beam. 2. I am confused on how this steering works, but I guess, when I will buy instruction, I will know. :D Again, great build: the body is great as well. You have included both a working engine and steering wheel, which is just icing on the cake. ;)

Well-packed, cute-looking model! Maybe it does not offer the best performance in terms of off-road capabilities, but you couldn't just go by and not notice it!

Are you guys sure that this is "bright green" and not actual "green"? If this were a normal one (like a lot of John Deere sets), I would have a decent green part pack to start building differently than gray/black.

I think that the pilot said, "No, thank you, I'm good.". And decided not to join live journey on this boat. :D Great stuff, not a typical Technic thing, but I believe it is enjoyable to watch your work flowing on the water with ease. One thing though, after your phenomenal work with the in-wheel-motor car, are you planning on going back to land vehicles with new ideas?

Software and programming board - Yes. Firmware will be different for each type of the board. https://am32.ca/downloads You can see that there is plenty of firmwares. It would be best if you could check which one works with your am32 esc.

Hi guys, I have a question regarding 9,5L springs. I recently bought really cheap 4x original yellow Lego hard springs (they have "LEGO" logo, etc.). I have also bought their softer version, which is much easier to get. The issue, maybe more like a thought, is that they are not really 9,5L, but 9. I measured both types, and a few of each type with calipers, and my results are around 72-72.5mm, which is really slightly more or exactly 9 studs. If they would really be 9,5 studs long, they should measure around 76mm. What are your experience guys on this topic, I would like to here input from people that do have one of those bigger springs. What I am talking exactly about are: 95292c01 - hard yellow/black springs 95292c03 - soft dark gray springs

I have not, to be honest. Do you want me to run some tests on AM32?

I had the same experience with SurpassHobby 2838 BL motors, back when I was trying them. This is what I was talking about a long time ago, those motors feel like they have narrower range of speed. I have some tests on my private computer, but when I compared A2212 1000kv motor with 2838 (I believe 3200KV) from Surpass Hobby. The last was driving pretty slow, and the difference between low/max throttle much smaller compared to first motor. I was testing that on SurpassHobby ESC's, I still have two of them, but use no more, because now AM32 is in the game. ;) PS Sorry for not replying for quite a while. I was quite sick for two weeks.

Top-notch work, very detailed build. I love the mix of techic/system bricks (although I am too lazy to mix those often :D). The hidden compartment and battery inside is icing on a cake for me. One question, why is there round 2x2 bricks stacked in the axle to the rear? Is this to serve some purpose, or is it purely esthetical?

I know that we are getting slightly out of your topic, but wanted to share a small discovery. So you said that you don't like the way you need to double-tap to go reverse, etc. If you could replicate my settings from below, you can have cruising experience with instant reverse functionality. The key is to uncheck the "Complementary PWM", and uncheck of course "Car/Basher" function as it overrides "Settings" tab. I have sinusoidal startup checked, but It doesn't work without "Complementary PWM", so you probably can uncheck that as well. On top of that, I noticed that indeed "Running brake level" seems weird on 1 value. It makes my car *beep* sound significantly quieter, and sometimes if I open the program again it changes itself to 0 or 10 value (I don't remember which one was it, but definitely not 1). I might speak to Alka, but I also don't want to trouble this man so hard. I know he is probably busy. :D Oh, and the version I am running is 2.19 with "ramp" feature, but to be honest I couldn't find any benefits of moving around those sliders, but I might have not dig enough.

It overrides settings in the first tab, so it will for sure change how it starts (it is not a bug). I don't mind using reverse twice to change the direction where the model is going. It is far better for all the driveline parts that it would free-coast when you let go of the throttle instead of sudden stop. I am yet to find a sweet spot in the settings, and I think that I agree with you, Viktor that there might be a bug, but with the brake settings. So it is not only me that feel like this :D But on the other hand "running break level:1" is not enough free-coasting. If I for example 50% throttle and let go, I would assume it will slow down in about 3 seconds (similar to situation when you toggle Car/Basher mode on). I don't think, that it will be more visible with heavier model. With heavier model you usually have even more down-gearing, and then it stops even faster (my TRX-4 got "brake on stop" off, "running brake lvl:1", "stopped brake level:0" - as brake on stop is off, this one is on off too). I also think that planetary hubs really push this effect even further, stopping it more abruptly. With brick-built portal hubs(that I currently have in my model), I could see better free-coasting effect. I understand, but that's what I turned off. We cannot really "turn off" the running brake. And I believe as soon as we are pushing it to more free-coasting(closer to "1" value) the ESC have a problem with finding position of the motor, and thus creating cog effect. We cannot have both free-coasting and sine-startup, this is something that Alka - master and coder of AM32 software told me. That is why I was waiting and figuring out with him for a 3-4 months a code that will toggle "Car/Basher" setting once you for example push a button on a receiver responsible for channel 3 (for example). It didn't work, and he was busy, so I gave up on this idea.