Krxlion

I will try to give more update on the am32 and motors sooner, but currently I have terrible private situation, and I couldn't focus on Lego stuff almost for a month now. Only browsing your stuff guys, and pretty much that's it, sorry.

Great showcase of tracked vehicle here! I really love all those shots in the wilderness, and you have clearly proven that in many scenarios this wrangler, with normal wheels, would give up. The model is very well-built, with a lot of functions, for a scale this small. I also like your presentation, easy to digest, both video and text - you did a great job with this project!

Great work @Aurorasaurus, maybe one day I will convince myself to try printing wheel hubs. Stopping printer and certain point and pushing bearing is a neat idea, not going to lie. One thing that I am curious, you are printing both inside part and outside hub, at the same time. Did you get an issue, that two elements fused together, and thus it didn't rotate in the center? I've also seen it's approximately your build 17, so I believe you polished it as much as you could. :)

Very good job @Aurorasaurus! Tons of interesting solutions here (I really like spring door mechanism, I will need to include those in my build as well). Is the body of the car removable? At first, I didn't notice that the model doesn't have seats and all of that, but to be honest it's a model that is supposed to be fun to drive, and for sure it is! The details are here, and some accessories to complete the look if someone prefer it that way. It's a pity that the model ended that way on your video. Have you rebuilt it?

What a coincidence, I am at the finish line of building Lego Technic off-road truck that is based on TRX-4 with Land Rover Defender body on it. TRX4 pictures were used mostly for reference, but I can see that hood is almost identical, haha (was it based as well on recent Lego set G500?). The rest looks different, and I don't have a snap-on body (which is a pity tbh). My model will be powered using a new BL motor(I actually need to make a video showcasing differences between those). Spring-loaded doors are something I need to aim for next time, because in my case, they are opened during cornering :D. Looking forward to video presenting the model. I need to finish my 3rd motor and will be ready to film as well.

Well presented and well deserved frontpage ;) I imagine for a small price and tons of functions, some kids would really beg their parents to have one. :D Great job, and keep up the good work, Ngoc!

Regarding the tires, I've been using them for brushless crawler, and they work great. You can find them much cheaper on a popular Chinese site with foam already in wheels.

Above quick demonstration of what I mean. The 20 teeth gear is the driving gear (by the motor), and rotation goes to gears below and their two drive shafts. As you can see in this scenario, the black gear has nowhere to go if it tries to skip, because on each side there are 24 teeth gear on a way. It's just a demonstration, but the concept worked on my several brushless setups.

I have tested this exact simple gearbox with brushless setup. I was skipping gears a lot. For me, the trick to not skip gears in gearbox is simply having it supported one by another.

I believe you meant XT30 (smaller version of XT60). I have recently tried them out, and they can hold 15A constant and 30A peak, but further studies on some Youtoube videos confirmed that they can hold even 60A for example for 10 seconds (but I don't see any Lego/Buwizz motors combo pulling that much :D).

Really awesome progress and I can see that it is really well build thing! I would love to try it out, but as you are planning further improvements, I guess we need to wait patiently. :D I want to ask some questions, If I may: 1. Is geek-servo not fully rotating +/- 90 degree in your case, or were you not fully rotating the knob during testing in your video? 2. I guess you will try to sell your product in the future. How are you planning to distribute it with people, for example that have different transmitters and/or receivers? Would it be all in one package (RC box with receiver plus transmitter that you recommend)? 3. Are you considering building RC box with battery inside, so everything will be in one place (of course it will cover bigger space, something like 7x9x4 stud - similar to Lego Powered UP hub)? Once again, great work and keep us posted! :)

If you fell rubbing, maybe the screws are too long, and they are touching the winding or the case of the motor. Also, the cable management of the motor can be bad and it is touching the rotating case. It's hard to tell to be honest. I feel like 1:36 reduction (two stages of planetary reduction) may be too much. With 1000kv motor, you will have around 300RPM at max throttle. You may consider having higher KV A2212 motor. Anyway, good luck with your project :)

What a beautiful creation, my brother own that car 4 years ago. It was so light and happy to drive. I immediately knew what car is this that you are showing us. It's a pity original car didn't feature rear-wheel drive, it would make a great entry-level drift car like MX-5. :D Keep up the good work Nico, thanks for sharing.

I've been there. If you turn on gyro function on DumboRC receiver it will shorten the movement of servo, simply to still have some "room" for counter-steering. :)

Thanks for the kind words, they mean a lot to me. :) I have modified this model one month after publish or so, but I didn't put it here, as I was busy investigating G500 set and modifying it to work with RC gear. The modified version of this MOC used my 3d printed planetary mount for A2212, so I could attach it directly to the gearbox (which was modified), and I also put the motor more to the front, for better weight distribution. Sadly, the 3d printer case for all necessary RC gear (with battery, esc, receiver) still ended on the upper side of the model, and roughly in the same position. The model performed well, I have even shrunken the space between axles by two studs, but didn't finish the body (I don't like designing this part too much), and thus didn't finish this topic how I would like. Anyway, I am working on a new model, with very similar functions, but I want to tune everything before presenting, so it will not end the same as with this one. :)

Great entry @FriedlS, it is always great to see custom-builds like this. :D I was afraid @NoEXIST not replying recently, especially during time when there were floods in Poland and Czech Republic - I hope you are alright. Back to the build, I assume this custom RC board is suited mostly for smaller cars, that do not draw much current, and uses not so power-hungry motors, right? Have you tested it already? :D

I followed the dimensions from this video. I have also looked through some different sources of dimensions of Lego Technic bricks, and they are accurate to me. I am printing on Bambu Lab A1 mini:

There is no reason at all. I was just messing with different options of reducing rpm of A2212 motor. I believe back then I used @janssnet method to insert motor shaft to lego connector (for CV joint it would work the same, and I used it that way HERE).

There you go Viktor! You have reached the dark side of non-lego electronic, and now we have an evidence of it, haha. How do you like it? Are you gonna build from time to time your future models with this RC gear? I really like that you have put overdrive on front, it shows that you studied RC off-road cars, or off-road cars in general, great work! Regarding the chinese L-motors I heard they have good RPM, but very poor torque, like they took one stage from two-stage planetary setup in their housing, but I might be wrong, and you can correct me on that one. As always you made sure you pack your model in a nice body, which I really love. Don't worry about messy cables, I think that in future you will find solution to that as well. :) Really looking forward to your next build, I always know it will be something good when you publish your MOC here, great work once again! PS I forgot to mention that your 4-link setup looks great, the model has so much ground clearance thanks to it!

I think I need a lecture regarding kingpin inclination, because to be honest I've never played much attention to that matter before. Mostly I was focused on achieving positive caster angle or ackermann steering, if a model would have anything from IRL cars/trucks. Your design seems already well planned and executed. I actually didn't think that recent wheel hubs don't work with portal hubs, I was quite surprised with this, and just yesterday I was happy that I have them, because they provide additional ground clearance to the build. Regarding printing your design, I think it will be hard to do so, it is a complex model and many things can go wrong. Anyway, thanks for sharing, I am really looking forward to this topic.

What a cute Mazda! I really love those cars, it has a special place in my pop-up head-lighted cars. Would love to see a video presenting the car in details, like mechanism of opening lamps, how the doors function, driving, etc. :) Also a huge plus for those renders, really sell the look of the car ;)

I wanted to switch my both Dumbo RC (transmitter and receiver) to something else - like flysky. But my desire to do so was because I thought my current equipment don't support some features. I was wrong (the problem I was facing was in ESC) and I still think this DumboRC X6FG combo is in my opinion the best option - money for value. Going with brushed ESC is also a great option if you want to keep using Lego/Buwizz motors, but I have not enough knowledge in this matter to tell more. All I know is that PF port connectors are very sensitive in terms of receiving high Amps, and stacking multiple motors on the same connector can be a bad choice. But maybe there is a solution to that as well. Yes, you are right. Few more things from my side. ESC must be bidirectional (ESCs that are stated for cars have that option), because sometimes you can buy ESC, but it's suited for drones, and it will only move forwards. Safety factor should be around 20%, so if you have decided on a motor, look for its max amp value and multiply it by 120%, and you will know what minimal ESC amp value should be. I recently discovered that AM32 ESCs have smooth start option (also they can be programmed), and it helps a lot, if you are moving heavy vehicles. As a cherry on top, here is a promised preview video of modified with brushless setup official Lego G500, enjoy. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. :)

Oh boy, I was right with this one. I switched ESC to the new one that has programming feature and my A2212 lego'ish motor with one-stage planetary transmission can actually drive 2.5kg G500 without issues. I actually was able to slip the original wheels going uphill, instead of simply motor getting cogged again. Also, motor and ESC weren't hot during those tests, so I assume I could push the setup more. The ESC is suited for 4mm banana plugs, but A2212 motor has 3,5mm(I can probably change those to 4mm) and I needed to improvise for my testing, but for my goal it was working just fine. I am tempted to record short video of me cruising around my yard, stay tuned. Yes, it was based on this one, the idea is brilliant for me, and I believe people don't recognize how good it is, simply because language barrier. I didn't know about your approach, I will look into that, and it's good that we all have different ideas on connecting RC components to our models For now, I will keep the second motor as a secret, simply because I don't know if it will work out great, but my recent discovery about connecting A2212 to a better ESC, makes me think I didn't need that powerful motor at all. But we will see what the future brings.

I am working on two brushless motor setups, but I want to have bigger picture on my work and have a wide range of test subjects to present my results. Currently, one motor setup works good but not great: - A2212 1000kv with 6:1 planetary reduction, it gives 1850 RPM output on 3s battery, but I am sorry to say that it struggles to move G500 Mercedes (I rebuilded the Lego set to brushless setup, because it pictures the weight and feeling of 1:10 scale off-road car, which I am aiming to prepare perfect brushless setup to). The car also features some remote locking diffs, two speed gearbox, etc. The main point is to test the motor. I think that better ESC, could solve the issue, with 45:1(whole gear ratio, including planetary reduction, gearbox and wheel hubs reduction) gear ratio on low gear it still can cog(ESC struggle to find current angle of the motor) and not move the model. This BL motor suited for Lego purposes is 6 stud long and 5 x 5 height/width - you can connect liftarms to the corners. Not gonna lie, it is not my whole idea of this motor, but I have redesigned a few things. Below is a picture of my motor (and some pins/axle added, so you can see the versatility of mounting options). Everything holds very well, and the motor is build with two cases and one-step planetary reduction. I also found a different motor, slightly bigger and hooked it to a different, suited ESC, which you can program, and initial results are really promising. I need to though redesign the whole 3d printed case for it. It looks like it will be 5x5x7 studs, but there will be no option to attach liftarms on the corners, like with my A2212 brushless motor. It is much more powerful, with steady control and I am trying to implement some safety features like slowing down, etc. So regarding my approach on our topic - stay tuned. I will have much more to present in better form - a video, presenting all the details and some models in action.

I think on chinese website you will find plenty of 0.5M(module) gears, so you might order more in advance, haha. :D I couldn't find those locally, but you may, if you live in Canada. ;) Regarding printing, I find my Bambu Lab A1 mini with 0.2 nozzle so precise that you can really achieve great results with it (the printer is not so expensive either).