Krxlion

Apart from diff-lock (it is good we finally have it!) which is operated by flipping the model upside down to get it locked/unlocked, those tires itself are buying me. First we've got good ones from audi and now mercedes - yes! I hope we will also get 2x new 2Ls driving rings as we have in Yamaha motorcycle. We still need gearbox photo, so my doubts about 2L driving rings will be cleared. I am also curious about that LBG part next to red gear in differential part, have we seen it already?

It's 3s, 11.1V. I didn't properly test the battery yet in terms of how long it last, before recharge. I was just driving my work in progress model, tweak something and so on.

Hi everyone! Recently I tried my way of squeezing RC components into one place and below I present you my results - first working prototype. It is 3D-printed "holder" for all RC components except BL motor. It also features studded size - 9x9x4. Quite big (could be squeezed even more with smaller ESC and/or battery), but it holds: - ESC (35A surpass hobby) - Receiver (x6fg) - Battery (3s, 900mah, 58x30x25mm) 3D-printed case features half stud pin holes to connect it further to lego model. Carved space around the battery is for ventilation purposes. ESC radiator also have space to give warmth away. We can open the case and get out small cable to recharge the battery if needed, no need to took apart all assembly. Below, I present it on my work-in-progress model. Also, here is a GALLERY for more pictures if someone is interested.

Very fun and all-around vehicle, which Lego should really aim with their model. Just look how much play kid would get (if this would be a Lego set). The body is clean and without flaws - I love front headlights and hood opening, with that little movement of small black panels. On top of that, you made those instructions free. Viktor, you are spoiling us too much, haha. :D Great work, I always say that, but I must admit - you never disappoint. Keep up the good work, cheers!

So foremost, I am looking forward @gyenesvi to your project and happy to see you experimenting with other power sources. I have a working 2-speed model with brushless setup that I do my experiments on. I can within 3 minutes swap A2212 motor with 2838 BL in Lego XL motor housing (including planetary reduction). Furthermore, I was driving it today with both setup and my conclusion is: 1. I feel like 2838 has like 5-6 stages of speed, nothing in between. This is probably because those motors are 4-pole ones. A2212s are 14-pole ones - smoother work with throttle. 2. 2838 is getting hotter due to closed case in XL motor housing (though probably this can be further improved by creating some holes in the case. 3. 2838 is noisier than A2212. I will try to not only speak, but also show you my experiments, but those probably will not be professional, just a video montage of me driving both setups.

Hi guys, I want to throw two cents from my side, regarding a similar matter. I was experimenting a while ago and trying to create something that was already achieved by @MaxBrix, but with 2838, 3200KV brushless motor. I found one crucial issue with that type of motors - poor RPM range. Likewise, I created a simple model (driving and steering) and hook up same thing as above in video. At first, I was pretty happy with the results, but after trying to work my way with throttle, I found there is very limited difference between low and high-speed. I think this is further noticeable due to transmission reduction, but all in all this effect does not take place when I do the same with A2212 motor. In all my tests I were using same ESC, transmitter and receiver.

Yeah I must agree on this one, I will probably take RCDeck on June from @NoEXIST as I have birthday in this month so I will try once again building models using Lego/Buwizz motors.The Nissan is very clean, I have never achieved this kind of polished body, it must have cost a lot of tries and time. I am just wondering how it would perform with drifts if you could put some custom drift wheels . Regarding one again RCDeck, I am wondering what other builds users can do with your product. Waiting for more from your side. Really great build and inspiring one to do something out of scheme.

I would have never thought you can build something like this out of this set, great work! I really like the front fenders, it give so unique look and sells the look of original buggy.

At first, I was very angry at TLG, for what have they done to us. But reading your post reminded me how badly I wanted to have 8183 Track Turbo RC set. At around 14-16 years, I wanted to create a custom body for it and design a track I could drive around. I didn't get the set, but the ideas I had of what I could possibly do, is something kids nowadays may feel as well. All in all, I don't believe the set I mentioned belong to TECHNIC section, but the new one might just aim for something like 8183, but with Technic body, and it could be an evolution (but not certainly a revolution). On a final note, this hub is not my cup of tea, or anyones else here I believe. Hope they not abandon old folks like us that love Lego for being able to build something we could see live (like gearboxes, different suspension designs, etc.). Video example of the set I was talking about:

Nice job here @Aurorasaurus. If it is a speed breaker, I would suggest checking different tires. Those rubber 3rd party ones are heavier than Legos. Of course, for a potential speed breaker run, I would suggest removing the spare tire. :D Other than that it looks like it has the own style and on top of that it should be robust enough to handle any stress, good job.

Cool idea, but not 100% what I was looking for. When we engage both red 16t clutch gears (low gear), we can force only one of two axles to work. In a scenario when one axle is hanging loose, it will transfer all energy to that axle, which is not great. But in the high gear the rear axle (blue one) will be engaged 100% sure, but it might as well use some of the power on the front, but that solution works great for me. I really like the fact that this gearbox is so simple, and I think robust as well.

I have built it, and it is a working design. The clutch isn't so hard for this job, as its only purpose is to limit movement to not be over +/- 45 degree. On the back of the white clutch part, there is of course gray one and geek-servo motor connected to it. But to be honest, any Lego motor can do the job if you could limit rotations (to 45 +/- degrees) using some Technic bricks around.

I actually did something that make your gearbox symmetrical and axles turn in one direction. Blue 12t gear do not connect with the 16t gear next to it. :) Adding one gear solve the issue, but on my picture you can of course see that it lost a lot of robustness. Anyway, it was just a concept. I will try to design a gearbox around moving axles that has gears and depending on the position of the axle one or two axles are rotating, and also it would involve switching gears. Might be a dream, but worth a try. I once tried it and I got a lot of skipping gears, but I have an idea to improve it.

Thanks for the idea @gyenesvi. I've tried to replicate your gearbox just to get a picture of how it works, but I cannot see bottom gears, haha. Anyway, I am looking forward to this topic as I am struggling with this gearbox idea for over a week now. PS Am I seeing it clear, or this drivetrain is not symmetrical, and one axle is off one stud to the symmetrical line of a car Edit: I can see that it is. Pretty unusual solution, but I don't know if it would work in my case. Although it looks like for this gearbox it is necessary. Edit 2(a lot of edits :D): I figure out how you design that gearbox. I must have been tired lately and couldn't understand all the design. It is very clever, but I am wondering about the robustness of it. It gives me some hope back, I will get back to the drawing board with this knowledge. Thank you once again!

Thanks for your suggestion. The idea of CVT is very nice, I might do something like this in a different MOC. But in this one I want to be in control of shifting. Slower gear helps a lot in maneuver over various obstacles, and this is something I am aiming into. The RWD-2nd gear will just be used in flatter and easier terrains. I will look into this idea once I return home. Right now during working day it is hard for me to imagine everything. :D If I will struggle with your idea, I will let you know, thanks.

Hi everyone! I need help regarding designing a gearbox as mentioned in the topic. During my work on a new project, I created a gearbox, which works very nice, but I wanted to enhance it with additional feature - selecting RWD in faster output and AWD in slower output. I was struggling with the idea for couple of days now, and I am slowly giving up on it, but maybe you can help me. First, let me show you how it works right now: The red 2L axle connector is an input of high rpm motor, then it follows to 46490 steering hub, which acts as a transmission (5.4:1). Then, the power output splits in two by using one 20-tooth and two 16-tooth gears (this helps a lot with skipping gears). After that we get to the simple, yet robust gearbox which choose between 24-tooth and 16-tooth gears and then of course following gears below. Finally, we are back on one axle and below are the ratios if someone is interested. :D Slow output: 5.4:1 Fast output: 2.16:1 Now that you understand the idea of my gearbox, I would like it to modify it to act as I mentioned in the first paragraph. I would of course want to maintain as much of my design as well, but heavier modifies are also welcome. Switching gearing is done by a motor connected to a clutch (46834+46835) and then by 6641 changeover catch. I also want to use only one motor for changing gears and powering axle if possible. Thanks for help in advance :)

That idea of positive caster just next to buwizz motor is simple, yet so clever! No wonder it is performing that great. May I ask why you choose 28-tooth gears instead of maybe 12-tooth ones? Are you gaining something from using bigger gears or was it just pure constructive choice? Great project and I am looking forward you finishing it and providing a video :)

I am really proud of your effort NoEXIST. I just want to put more suggestions If I may: 1. 3D design and print case for the battery that fits Lego Technic system. 2. In your video presenting RCDeck, in the beginning you are showing: Transmitter, RCDeck, battery and... Battery buzzer. What is that thing, is it required and what it does? 3.(not a suggestion, but more of observation) I could see that in your video my observations about DumboRC are confirmed. I have two sets of those transmitters and receivers(with gyro) and I cannot as well fully rotate 90 degree +/- with geek-servos. Only about 80 degree and this is something with that setup. 4. It would be nice to mention in the video what are the dimensions of RCDeck in studs. :)

Thank you @NoEXIST for your input. I will wait for your video as I am curious how all of that will work. Please take your time with the video, as newbies in the topic may not understand everything. Presenting all of should be as user-friendly as possible is a core, at least from my point of view. :)

Thanks everyone for the input. I went for Bambu Labs A1 Mini. I might share an opinion with you as a novice user of 3d printing. Also, my friend probably will buy Sidewinder X4 Pro which is slightly cheaper in my country, so I might do some comparison in this thread later. :)

I would really like to have out of box functionality. I can dig deeper into polishing the model in CAD or any 3d software, but tuning the printer might be just too much. Have anyone of you heard about recent Sidewinder X4 Pro? My friend is getting it soon and I don't know how to compare it to previous models, even Bambu Labs A1 Mini. :D The price of Bambu is kinda scary, but I am willing to pay extra if I would not scratch my head over and over to configure the 3d printer. EDIT: Just noticed the quality difference between Bambu and previous ones. The difference is real! If it is out of the box functionality I am in. :D

Hi everyone! Sorry to refresh kinda old topic, but I am in need as well of 3d printer. The 3d printers topic is a wild and constantly changing environment so I would like to know if there is an update to the mentioned 3d printers? My budget is around 300 USD and I will like to print casings for RC components that are also suited for Lego Technic builds. I will use probably this site: https://marian42.de/partdesigner/. Any other options than Ender V2 Neo with PLA filament?

Gyro is a real game changer in faster models. I wouldn't swap that function in example, for defining rotation angle on geek-servo (under a button in transmitter).

@gyenesvi is it really possible to define rotation angle on your FlySky TX/RX transmitter in the 3-position switch? I am working on a project where I need to switch gears in the gearbox and I find geek-servo not turning as precisely as I would like.

Thanks for your input, Friedl. I watched probably all of your models and not gonna lie, feel in love with smooth drifting in your Technic WRX, that you put a while ago. Regarding gyro function, it really helps, because like you mentioned it is really hard to control where the car slips or have tracking, thus I need to make sure it slips most of the time to make it call a reasonable drift. And when it slips, it is kinda hard to control, so the gyro helps me counter-steer on curves. I was able to fit tight the receiver so it was very useful giro function, not like in my TROPHIC, previous brushless truck. Aaaaand... I have now 58mm real drift wheels, just need some conversion to Lego system and hopefully the next drift car will have much better performance. Thank you for your kind words, Lixander. Regarding putting 3rd party components in studio, I kinda don't want to do that. It is because I simply understand what is where and sometimes when I want to share the .io files with someone, he does not need to have all of that and can hopefully understand what is where thanks to provided Legend.