Krxlion

@HorcikDesigns you did a marvelous job with this one. The size being 3x3, with 8 (I believe) stud long, is a great fit to Lego contraptions. I would like you to share with us some details if you can: - What is minimal and maximal RPM output on the motor. Do we get like a spectrum between 380-2812 RPM (I based those numbers on brief calculations)? Because in my case in-runner motor with planetary reduction (although it was two-stage planetary reduction) concluded with poor RPM range - How did you make this explode image (some cad program like Autodesk Fusion)? I am currently testing brushless solution with A2212 1000kv motor, with 3s battery and results are promising. With a medium size model, like yours (around 1.5kg), there is no issue with running. But I modified a recent G500 Lego model to work with my motor, and it started to cog slightly. I think I am not having enough power, so I ordered two more different brushless motors, to test those. - Does your test model is capable of crawling, slow RPM, or is it suited mostly for high-speed off-road? - Is it possible to test your solution in heavier model?

I remember starting my journey in Technic and at first I bought CaDa Technic set with these beams and oh boy, I was so disappointed that in Lego catalog there aren't such bricks. I still use them, not though in sets I want to present here, because there is a lot of "lego purists", which would dislike it. Although I built my models mostly with 3rd party electronic (radio transmitter, receiver, etc.), I would like Lego to go back in that direction, the responsiveness in radio system is something we lack. And don't get me started on motors, we lack power and it isn't something that bricks won't handle. There are plenty of people who proved for example that drivetrain system can hold more power that Lego nowadays provides us, without breaking or damaging bricks. We still lack some crucial small bricks such as 2x2 beam with different variations. Basically, people already mentioned what bricks/liftarms they would find useful and I think this is something that some Lego spy should look into. :D Edit: Oops, I just noticed that @Xfing already mentioned liftarms I meant, but the list can go on and on.

I have found what's wrong with my setup. I will share it here, although a scenario like I had is rather unusual. So basically the gyro function in X6FG receiver I have, trim the movement of geekservo. It I believe needs to do that in order to have some "movement range" to counter-steer. That's pretty much it, I have turned gyro function off, and I got proper 180 degree movement (even more). I wonder if a different receiver, and/or transmitter, could have done the trick to have 180-degree angle movement and gyro function, but that's for another day. Sorry If I flooded your topic with an unnecessary dose of information.

Thanks for the note, I didn't know about that battery behavior, cool to know. Regarding your radio controller, I would prefer having "pistol-type" transmitter. I am also trying to figure out if providing different current (for example 3A), may have a visible effect on the range of rotation.

And between those two batteries (7.4V and 8.5V) you see no difference in terms of rotation, just torque goes up, correct? If that is the case, I am running out of ideas why my setup isn't working rotating 180 degree(90left/90right), but around 150-160 degree. Anyway, thank you Oracid for your knowledge. I will continue digging.

Oh, that's not good. I will need then start digging into my issue once again. One more thing, Oracid, do you think that maybe instead of 5 volts, putting 6 volts per µs can make a difference in physical rotation. So let's just get an example that you programmed in arduino a script like yours in a video and instead of trying executing it using 5 volts, you would use 6. Would that make a difference?

I have already spoked with Oracid, about Geekservo programming in arduino. I just wanted to ask another thing and also bring this topic to a wider audience. So If I understand correctly we can program certain Geekservo, thanks to this arduino setup and then bring modified code in geekservo memory and apply new settings for example in RC setup (transmitter, receiver, ESC and rest of the family :D), right?

I wanted to just ask (as this was my first contest I followed) how often do moders organise those?

Thank you everyone for your great model. This contest is the first one I really followed, and I must say that with each entry you all made it more difficult to choose from. That is also why I am surprised and not about the final results. Once again, great work!

What a sturdy and playful model we have here! Nice spots to shoot the video. I especially like the amount of geek-servo motors you were using, each with individual purpose. Not gonna lie, I learned a lot - thanks to your detailed overview of the model. Everything is well presented, and you have an eye to highlight the ups of your model, yet again, I appreciate that. Moving switches in the cabin are also a plus. One thing, I don't know if it is just me, but in your video (1minute 18 second - I could see that the geometry of driveshaft is slightly off, axles are not fully inserted). I also have a feeling that the rear trunk door handle operates in reverted movement. But don't let those small things bother you. I am sure your next model will be even better, I can't wait for your next work show. PS I also like how you "force" closing central differential by spinning front and rear axle in the same speed, but the 1st gear only rotates differential gear case - I will for sure need to remember that technique.

Totally not my cup of tea, but DEAR LORD - this thing is massive and most important works like a charm. I cannot find words to describe how awesome it is, hands down, great work!

I have already posted a comment in your YT video, but as a form of my appreciation to your work, I also wanted to send it here: "Great build Zerobricks, I really love the fact that each model you present has something different (for example this one has a unique link from steering rack to steering wheel, and other your MOC may have locking differential). The body remind me of old Technic builds - raw look, but hides a lot of used techniques. One thing that I think you could use, without too much modification, is a hood supporting rod (you could use just a simple 6L half-stud liftarm). I also love reinforced steering, hopefully it reduces wheel slack just a little bit (maybe adding an upside-down rack, like in Lego Audi 42160, could be a better solution). One question that I have in my mind, how is 8-tooth gear holding in high-gear? Have you managed to slip that gear during riding the model?" I am not convincing you to reply to it here, just an additional note to point out - Great that you covered all the bottom - less dust, etc. get into drivetrain. ;)

Very detailed and beautiful B-model. Grill, mask, everything is on spot, like Lego would do it - or even better! I must say, I am also astonished by the second model as well (it deserves presentation on its own). I like the buggy so much that I started a side project of my own - dune style buggy (your model is such an inspiration). In the second model, I really love the rear engine and its moving elements. Also, fenders sells the look, I will try to adopt both things in my model, but we will see results when it comes out. Thanks again for sharing and cheers! :)

Voted, I was already amused by two entries, so top two for me was pretty much decided at the start. But the rest was pretty hard. Great job everyone, and thank you for your entries, good luck!

Very cool concept, compatible with Lego world! I am just thinking if we don't have actually Technic solutions that would cover that, but I might be wrong and didn't understand the whole picture of that. :D

I will dig out this gem once again, because I come back to it from time to time. I have a question regarding building off-road vehicles that wasn't mentioned in this article, which is weight distribution. I am testing my model and I found one obstacle hard to overcome, which is a 30-35 degree ramp that has a steep tip before it. I can see that my model has plenty of power, because front wheels overcome that tip without problem, but once rear wheels approach it, they spin and cannot climb onto it. For furthermore tests, I placed my model after that tip and elevated ramp to around 40 degree, and it goes up without problem. So my thinking is that my model has poor weight distribution and I think the rear is too heavy, but I would welcome to hear from you guys, what do you think. PS Photos are dead yet again :(

Thank you so much for this informative and quick reply. It is indeed a solid axle, and it is able to rotate from side to side, but I need to work on front and back movement.

Hi everyone! I have a question regarding usual drivetrain angle. So I am currently upgrading my recent MOC and I noticed that the angle of the drivetrain makes it that between universal joint and steering CV joint is not one stud space (just enough for red bush), but stud and something (picture). It is probably due to further layout of the chassis, but I don't have any half stud offsets (except the one in the shock absorber). My question is it normal thing that I have this like a 1/4 stud space in axle left? I am trying to make a precise model, so I can receive good geometry, etc. By this situation I cannot put 6 stud link (in a Studio, because program detects collision), that should be connected to ball joint pins (visible on the picture), because the length is 6 and around 1/4 stud. Thanks in advance, and If you don't understand what am I trying to say, just let me know.

Hi @NoEXIST, I was just curious if we have any progress on RCDeck? Have new ESC meets your needs in the project, or are you working on a different problem right now?

I am so happy that this topic is getting more and more attention. In a future when @NoEXIST will figure out here how the best configuration for RC Deck looks like, maybe there will be a time to prepare a case for battery or even combine the two of it in one unit (something like I presented in Brushless topic).

Hi everyone! Today I want to present you an off-road car, that I've been working for quite some time. There were several attempts, some of it ended up as unpolished models, without all features I initially had in my mind, and some were just concepts of gearbox, axles, etc. These were my initial assumptions on the model: Sturdy drivetrain and gearbox with a wide range of gear ratios Remotely lockable both front and rear axles Up to 1:10 scale, nothing bigger Utility vehicle - it must be able to climb step hills and also provide decent speed on plain terrain Removable body (if it would have one) Precise low speed control - to provide maneuverability over a variety of obstacles Planning the wheelbase and car elements, based on an existing vehicle - to ensure the authenticity of the model Using trusted A2212 1000kv BL motor and other RC components to power it Gearbox I always try to start with a gearbox if my model would feature one. The idea was to make it simple, yet robust. In order to achieve it, I needed to make sure each important gear will be supported by another. My other goal was to make a gearbox with a wide range of gear ratios, so at least for example 1:1 - 1st gear and 1:3 - 2nd gear. The Gearbox I use worked well in my previous concept model I didn't present here. Final gear ratios are: 1st gear: 63.787:1 2nd gear: 16.329:1 3.9 times difference between first and second gear! Now you may ask how I achieved this based just on a picture below, but we will get into that later. Axles I went through massive amount of research to have a working concept of both front and rear axle, that is driveable, able to turn (front axle) and also featuring locking mechanism somewhere. None of the concepts on the Internet were actually fitting my model. I do not have small technic pistons (I am looking at you Lego Technic Emirates), and it didn't seem I would have a chance of finding something different that will work in my case (rc car). I also knew I would use geek-servo for locking system, so only 90-degree turn must provide option for locking and unlocking mechanism. Gray 2L driving ring is actually a new one - 2473. It is not yet added to Lego studio, but the existing ring was working for me just fine. With that concept of the axle, I just needed to make sure the upper steering arm is angled, because other way it would collide with the gears. That angle is perfectly calculated, so I could work on finishing the axle, adding steering (for the front) and most importantly - locking differential mechanism. The finished front axle features: 2x 9.5L hard springs, 3x steering arms to cooperate with springs, 4x steering links, lockable differential mechanism. Did I tell you this was my own first solid axle build attempt? I guess it may be called multi-link suspension, but you have to correct me on that one. Locking differential mechanism on axles As you probably already noticed, this whole model is based around locking differentials functionality. When I was organizing my parts, I came upon instruction of my CADA C61006W, which featured locking differentials in similar scale. The idea of having one gear turning around 90 degree and pushing by it two different gear racks at the same time was splendid. That movement could rotate 6641 Changeover patch part, and thus lock and unlock 2L differential, that was the key of my goal. I went to the drawing board and after some time I created this. As you can see, If I would rotate 12T black gear to the left around 90-degree, it would push by using 6641 and 64781 parts the 2L 2473 driving ring. I just needed to make sure pivot points are correct, so the mechanism wouldn't move unnecessarily during suspension work. Chassis It needed to be as symmetrical as possible, due to previously mention features. I simply wanted it to be robust. I do not focus much on exterior or accessories - it just adds unnecessary weight to the model. The chassis also needs to have all points to attach both axles to. Body Let me just start with one sentence, I am not proud of the body. I am also not a great body sculptor. The overall design was based on Ford Bronco Badlands from 2021, but I only planned wheelbase and door placement around it. The rest was improvised, simply because I don't like rebuilding 1:1 real cars in Lego. The body is detachable and features opening doors and hood. Power system and drivetrain Ah yes, we are approaching icing on a cake. The model is, like I already mentioned, powered by A2212 1000kv BL motor. It also features 3x geek-servos: steering, changing gears and locking differentials. On top of that, I developed some sort of RC-hub (mostly because I want to organize everything in one place). This hub contains 3s battery, receiver and esc. It also features Lego Technic dimensions: 9x9x4 studs. If you want to know more about all of that, check out Brushless motors in the lego world - general topic. As you can see in the top right corner, there is an A2212 motor directly hooked to the planetary hub. This way revolutions are downgraded to let's say civilized number (from 11100 RPM to about 2000 RPM - similar to buggy motor in fast output). This also provide us built up torque, which we will for sure need in off-roading. Summary I am really proud of this model. Especially because it taught me many new things in Lego Technic world. I believe some of you can also learn from my problems and how I approached them. Here are some numbers that may interest you: Weight: 1.590 kg Length, width, height: 43x19.4x16.9cm Theoretical max speed 1st gear: 2.67km/h Theoretical max speed 2nd gear: 10.44km/h Soon I will be able to record some footage of all the features of the car and of course playtime! For now, I have more photos and GALLERY for you.

I believe that @kbalage has a video on this topic. Please take a look at his YT channel. 😉

Those are great news! The more sets will receive new 12T clutch gear the better! My heart and wallet was bumping that I would need to get both 42172 and 42177 to get all the goodies, but it looks like I will get this one and yacht (for those pistons).

It uses standard PLA filament to print, if that is what you asked. This case required some support, yes. Bambu Studio (3d printer app) offers easy to use support feature. I could probably print it with even better quality with smaller nozzle, but this one do the work and pins are holding pretty good.

Thanks Krzychups, I just want to have clean build, without rubber band or anything similar to hold all the RC components. The 3D printer is Bambu Lab A1 mini. I am using almost default settings as they are really well-prepared for printing lego'ish things. By the way, if someone is interested I can share the 3d models of this case and a cover. I was using mostly https://marian42.de/partdesigner/ tool to get it done.