Krxlion

Like I said under your YT post: "The suspension feels so smooth :D I wonder if those two links on the rear axle don't pop off during riding on heavy off-roads? I love how you hide all those RC electric components and the body looks great as well! I can see a real improvement since your latest models, great job!"

No worries Daniel, take your time to finish the MOC. I am looking forward to find out how this "black box" contributes to the whole build.

@gyenesvi BM means "brushless motor" and you are 100% right in your comments. For me right now the website is still not as professional and trustworthy as I would like it to be. There are no names or brands of RC components at all, thus making it more distrustful. Regarding components itself I feel like only differentials, steering wheel hubs and this small transmission attached to BM are the only things I would consider worth checking. Other components can be bought from different websites for a fraction of the money that is stated on the website. Edit: I have even found out now the 36mm gearboxes that are attached to BM and they are available in different gear-ratios for like 10-15€.

Great stuff @MaxBrix, I watched this video right after release and I am curious if you have found a matching brushless motor to L or XL Lego PF motor housing, that would be a breakthrough, because lot of a time some of us rely on printing their own housing using a 3D printer or other tricks.

Okay @gyenesvi I will give you and all that read this topic a sneak preview of something that I am currently working on, to help you and others that may have same questions. As you can see here I screwed "Flat Head Screw M3 X 10mm" to body of the A2212 motor and get through pinholes of Lego Technic 87082. This right away gives me possibility to mount the motor easily to Lego chassis. Be aware that I left one stud hole between two 87082 parts, because in that hole there is a part of A2212 motor shaft that is spinning pretty fast. Next your questions was about gearing down 3:1. What I meant here is that there is gearing down done by @FriedlS in his model, but after closer look it is not 12-tooth gear to 36-tooth gear, but 12-tooth gear to 20-tooth gear (the black 20-tooth gear confused me, haha). There is no additional gearing down that I can see, that was in the initital post (third picture, gray oval metal part attached directly to the motor). To answer your question about kv/torque values in same size of brushless motor I will redirect you to this video. It explains it for sure better than I can: Your final question about placement of the battery can be answered by my photo below. This battery is "GensAce 11,1 V 1800 mAh", dimensions are 92x31x25mm. They are not 100% ideal for Lego system but 25mm side can fit nice and tight in 5x7 frame, without any issues and I can still use that frame as structural support in my models. Of course you can find different batteries, but keep in mind 8mm distance(one stud distance), that will help you get what you need. The final thing that I wanted to share with you guys is attaching Lego Technic bricks to shafts of the brushless motors. In most outrunner brushless motors (for example A2212) the shafts are oval, without any grooves and this does not help attaching anything to it. With a help of @janssnet video I modified A2212 shaft so I can use it in a way I preffer (without drilling, cutting or anything like that in Lego parts): So what I did in my A2212 motor is I removed the shaft from it and then grinded it to the point it matched the groove that was already in it (below I attach photo of A2212 motor shaft with mentioned groove). After that, I put motor back together and attach first a half technic bush as a separator. Then, with a help of small cutted part of a credit card or any card I can attach any Technic part. In case of photo below I attached Lego 52731 part. The small technic bush above helps me create the distance that matches Lego Technic system (multiple of eight milimeters). Created distance from one end of that bush to the end of the motor is ~32mm.

Based on my knowledge, motors usually have 16mm and 19mm mounting screw points (to attach motor to "body" of the model and we use the first ones as one stud is ~8mm). The gearing is only 3:1, which for 4000kv motor is pretty low for me. What is kv value? It represents revs/turns per provided voltage. In the setup it may be 11.1V or 7.4V, which means from 29600 to 44400 turns per minute, which is HUGE. Of course it is then downgraded 3x times, but for Lego it is still huge value. In the initial topic input we can see that this BM is also having planetary reduction just so Lego can witstand the power and probably for building torque and being able to control the throttle more precisely.

What is show here is actually opposite. Going from smaller gear to bigger one is gearing down. The first gear ratio is actually 3:1, not 1:3. You need to turn 3 times driving gear to achieve 1 turn in following gear. Hope that clarifies this topic. ;)

When you pushed the throttle to full with A2212 aboard I was like: "Sheeeeesh! :O". It really couldn't end better than twisting axles, melting or something popping out :D. For me, speed like 12-18km/h is fine and desirable. I also prefer to have an option to go slow with the model for some precise manouvers. Great showcase and keep us posted. Little off-topic, but an informatioo for Daniel - my Frontliner progress will be showed later as I found my current method of meshing Lego Technic with BM, to be too messy.

I've tested 3 different gearbox systems in my Lego WIP Frontliner powered by A2212 BM. I seriously couldn't achieve reliable two-speed gearbox. First gear was working fine almost in every build, but when I tried switch to second, cracking noises are all around when pushing model to 50-70% of power. The thing that @dustblue said about pushing the clutch out of clutch gear is 100% accurate, the speed of brushless motor is simply too big. I finally gave up on this topic and simply build the car without gearbox, which means less weight, less "play" or loose end of the whole drivetrain. I think what Zerobricks did with his 4x4 recent MOC pushed Lego Technic gearbox system to like 99% of its limits.

We will probably need to wait like with the heavy-duty differential, which was first available only in Lego Ferrari Daytona set and then almost in every car. The only thing with gearbox parts is that they I would assume need bigger things in order to be included in sets.

I've been waiting for a new project from you, Daniel, and it's here! Clever usage of steering rack with perpendicular beams in rear axle arms. You built something similar that I recently have, but it didn't yet see the light on forum yet! A great display of clever engineering and I am waiting for video describing them even closer (something similar to Pathfinder video, it was very informative). I have some questions if I may: 1. You switched to 1200kv motor from 1000kv. Why is that? Was previous one too slow or something? 2. Are you planning on leaving completely Lego hubs, because the custom ones are so good? Have you tried the new ones from Lego Audi set? 3. I would like to see how rear suspension works if you "squezze" it, is that something you can add to your future video? 4. I can see that you are using 1500mah battery, instead of 1800mah. Have you found any good "housing" to it, so it can fit for example 5x7 frame like in the 1800mah battery? 5. I think I remember front axle usage in different project. Was it in your old but great Dragonflay or in one of Андрей Цапенко projects? Once again, great showcase of your skills, I will probably find more great inputs in your model once I will dig deeper into the topic.

Hello everyone, I recently came across a problem that I didn't get previously. So I have a model that weights 1,2kg (4-wheel drive buggy - 81mm wheels dimensions), which is powered by 4 buggy motors with two Buwizz'es 3.0(two motors for each unit) and of course one L motor for steering. When I hook this thing up to BrickController app and try to ride it with PS4 controller I cannot exceed like 20% of power, because it will immedietelly shut down both Buwizz'es and then I need to put them to power source to get back working. Out of curiosity I launched this setup without BrickController and straight up to BuWizz app and I don't get that kind of situation, I can really push model to it's limit without any shutdowns. I wasn't using Buwizz and BrickController for past two months, because I focused on brushless setup on a different model, is there something that was changed in BrickController app? I didn't receive any update. Is anyone having similar issues like me?

I have been there and I burnt same amout or even higher number of buggy motors, though with using Buwizz 3.0. Some of those motors were having visible capacitors, some of them don't. The first thing to prevent burning motor is to avoid motor to "stall". If you have big obstycle or high grass, where the motor simply doesn't rotate wheels or rotate them barely, it creates a situation where currency is too high. If it only stops and is not already burnt that is actually very good scenario. I wonder how would Buwizz motors perform, I believe those have better capacitors to prevent "smoking", but who knows. If anyone here burnt a buwizz motor with normal usage, please speak up.

That's indeed very cool MOC. It has nice "flex", great bodywork and suspension works pretty smooth. One thing that I am maybe afraid of is battery replacement. Keep up the good work!

I have no experience with FlySky FS-GT5, but the DumboRC is actually pretty good starting point (be sure to go check if it is dumborc x6fg - it comes with gyro receiver that will help you stabilise your model). The receiver also features 6-channels and in my case I use one of those channels to control gearbox with another geek-servo.

Indeed, great B-model. I don't dislike original set, but your instruction may help anyone searching additional building experience, using bricks they have.

Great discovery @Zerobricks. I was curious about any news regarding new wheel hubs and here they are! I do not know though if 6 pin connection would be that great. It sounds good at first, but in harsh circumstances the wheel could pop out with a part of wheel hub. There is no proof yet about fixed towballs, so let us wait for more details, maybe there will be ones that can be disconnected.

Same thing from my side as well. I like your models, they are each time better and better, but maybe it would be good to modify one topic and call it for example "vergogneless workshop".

Marvelous job SpaceHopper. It indeed has a lot of details, which is pleasant in "display" model. I see a lot of interesting angles here and there, which indicates effort put in the MOC. I would like to see this model on more pictures, maybe even "stripped" ones, haha. Thanks for showing it to us and hopefully this is not the last model that you present here, take care! :)

I have bought your instruction once - "42129 C model". That model does have double-wishbone suspension, so if it also features good steering angle I can take solutions from that one. But if I will do that, soon my Frontliner will be more "yours" than mine MOC, haha. :D Either way, I will take a look at your guidelines, I appreciate your input a lot! :)

This is exactly what I got - Anti-ackermann geometry, which is good for drifting, but not for my purpose. Thank you Gyenesvi for commenting. Regarding your entry, it doesn't really bother me where I will put steering rack, because I simply want to learn the proper way of achieving good steering geometry. I read your comment few times, but it is hard for me to put it together in my mind and create useful front axle. Have you got any solutions on rebrickable or any other source, that I could follow to learn more about it?

Hi everyone! I want to create an off-road vehicle with these functionalities: - Speed around 13-16km/h - Positive caster angle - Good steering radius - Covering bottom of the car - Vehicle must be as versatile as possible (on-road, off-road, climbing capability) - that is why it is called Frontliner - No melting/damaged axles(or other parts) or at least minimal wear - this is with usage of brushless motor A2212 1000kv - Weight around 1,2 kg - Big wheels 100-110 mm (provide additional ground clearance) - Two-speed gearbox (optional functionality, may be implemented in the future) - Total gear reduction set to approximately 12:1 (including differentials reductions, etc. This still provides good speed of the model with usage of brushless motor) - Pendular suspension (optional functionality, currently implemented and it's very useful) What I will be using (non-lego): - RC setup (DumboRC X6FG - provides gyro stabilization) - Geek-servo motors (those works simply as servo-motor, but with 6 channels of the receiver I might use additional geek-servo motor as switch for gearbox) - A2212 1000kv brushless motor (I was previously using different BL motor, but this one is 14-pole, which means it has shorten rotating angle per-pole and is more precise in working with the throttle than 2838 3200/4500kv BL motor) - Metal universal joints (those are simply more robust than Lego ones) - Lucas oil white lithium grease (used to lubricate gears and axle holes) - 35A ESC - 3s li-po battery This is the first time I am seriously using Bricklink Studio to create a MOC. I had few attempts before, but this time I really pushed myself to at least design front and rear axle in it. Front axle: I used Geek-servo motor to steer the model (the front red weird stack of liftarms is actually it, dimensions 3x3x5). It also features planetary hubs, reinforced steering joints and planetary hubs. Rear axle (heavily insipired on @gyenesvi 42129 C model): We can see here the new differential (knock of part for now. I am soon gonna buy 42157 set to replace it with original Lego one). The yellow UV joint symbolizes metal version of it. Middle section: The yellow stack of gears symbolizes A2212 brushless motor. Between two 5x7 frames I hold battery and on top of that all RC components. This provides placement of all RC components in relatively small place. A2212 motor can rotate around 11100 RPMs at max throttle, then it is gear down 20:28 (differential gear). The differential distributes the power between the front and rear axles, which in my opinion creates less axle load than with just regular 28-tooth double-bevel gears. After joining above components into one setup I received the first prototype: I bought third-party wheels just out of curiosity and I have found that they weight slightly less than Lego ones, with pretty much same radius - 103mm. The body is just something I come up with in one day, I do not worry about that part for now as it is just prototype. At first I wanted to use 23801 steering hubs, but after few test runs with above model they simply couldn't stand the pressure. Other than that, the small steering joints were popping out from wheel hubs during steering on bumpy road. So that left me with only two solutions. Either I will use old portal hubs or new planetary ones. The first ones are more suited for big trucks, at least for me. So the choice was to go with the second option. (We need to wait for the Lego Audi set 42160, hope it will have good steering hubs, that support CV ball joints and are without planetary reduction) With that setup I was afraid that main shaft will have too much speed (around 7900 rpm at max throttle) and axles will start to melt. I was surprised when I took apart the model after hard run, because parts were in perfect shape! Those positive results are I believe because of light weight and short driveshaft. I am far from over with this model, that is why I submitted this topic. There is still room for improvement in those areas (at least :D): - Steering radius is simply poor. I thought that If I will put servo on the front and steering rack as close to the center of front axle it will solve the problem, but appareantly no. If you guys have ideas how to solve that or know any good front axle solutions I will be more than happy. - I need to cover bottom of the car. Shouldn't be problematic, but needs to be pointed out. - Body will be totally new. With 42157 set going soon into my arms and 42136, 42149 already in my hands I will be going with one main color and I believe you know which one I am aiming at. :) - Two-speed gearbox, but It will probably change overhaul look of middle section - Extending rear section. This is tricky one, current solution do not put much stress on axles, but with longer rear driveshaft it would give more "Trophy truck" vibes into it (and I love that :D). Other than stress on axles, this modification will actually shorten steering radius even more, so I am really thinking about implementing it. That's it. If you survived this wall of text I am more than happy. Here is GALLERY for you. Do not hesitate to write under this topic as I am open to suggestions and questions about this MOC.

I didn't really think you can pull a decent body out of this scale, but you did! Reall great looking small vehicle ;) Regarding mixing colors, black comes really good with white, but you can go with something more unusal. The change of remote control is also a step in good direction. I feel like you can simply take it with you in small bag or something and whenever you find flat road on a walk or something, you can bring this small car out! When I wanted to go out with my MOC - Trophic, I needed to get my trekking 35L backpack, haha. :D

I really love it! I have already made a comment on your YT channel, but I wanted to appreciate your great input. Maybe in the future, when I will understand all the required components I will try something like this myself, haha!

I see, good to hear that you do not experience any unwanted behavior :). What is also great, is that A2212 motors have 14-pole in them, which means the "jumps" of rotor are not so big (only about 25 degree). When for example I was using 2838 motor it has only 4-pole (90 degree jumps). With that motor it is very hard to drive gently, haha. :D