Aurorasaurus

Oh, my bad, somehow I thought you meant the headlights?? I can't see sticker lines on the main logo either.

I actually use this frequently enough that I'd be annoyed if it was retired, it definitely has its uses. But for everything else, I completely agree. Especially the wheel hubs/differentials.

If you zoom in close enough you can see the raised bit where the sticker starts/ends.

I like this one more. It feels a lot cleaner than the colored one. I also like the more technic body a lot more than the old one. Very nice!

In the past week, I finally got around to making instructions for one of my favorite models: Hammerhead. (called so because I thought it looked like the fish) I've had this model for >3 months now, and thought it was finally time to share about it a little bit. I will make a full post for it soon enough, but for now I would love it if some people could have a look through the instructions and tell me any problems you see with them. Because I designed it, I will never see these problems the way others can. It runs on 2x buwizz 3.0s, and 4x buwizz motors geared 12:20 from the fast output, 2 per rear wheel. Live axle rear suspension, independent front suspension. I feel that the chassis even looks somewhat realistic, it has some complex angles and is very robust indeed. Hammerhead is on the left here, the other one is a failure. Instructions Studio file A few more photos

Awesome. It looks like it turns fast enough for me. How have you found the mounting points on it? They look.. not well thought out.

Your video appears to be private. Why not put it on YT and unlist it? Personal preference?

That looks great, I feel like you captured the front of the car very well. It feels fast, just from the photo.

I considered that... its a lot of extra weight and unneeded complexity, if there exists a better solution I would prefer that.

@Variteck Nice to see some progress, have you tested these outside yet? On another note, does anyone have a solution for getting a secondary motor, for a winch/other motorized function working with a brushless setup? I can attach gray geekservos to my receiver but they still act as servos not motors, which I guess is to be expected.

I'd consider myself closer to the general technic audience than the other people I see on here - I dont have much enthusiasm for construction sets, at the price Lego sells them for. But I think the general technic audience will never get tired of cars, because the group will change, new customers come and old customers move on to other expensive display items. So sadly, I don't see Lego moving away from cars in technic.

Teeny tiny! I think its really cute, and good looking for the scale.

Or another car?

I used an a2212 with xl motor reduction, I've only tried it in a model once (with a very poor drivetrain design) and broke an axle on the first bump because of the sheer mad torque from the motor. If you can drive a little carefully and manage a proper drivetrain (unlike me ) I think it will be okay. Just spec 1400kv or slightly greater so you get a decent output rpm. I think you can find all the files I used a page or 2 back, maybe that will help you. In regards to planetary hubs, I've no experience with aliexpress ones, but I would expect them to be fine. Since you're using brushless power, I would stick to fake ones, theres no point destroying more expensive things for no reason.

This bigger board sounds a lot more like it! If it can reliably drive 4x buggy motors, then it may serve as a much needed competitor to buwizz units. Being able to use a 3s lipo is very important in my eyes, I think you should make sure its possible.

@Auroralampinen I think it would help you a lot to get a bunch of something like this - all the same, so they stack- and sort all your parts into them. Then you can have a much tidier space, and find parts easier. I keep the lids off mine so I can immediately see what I'm looking for, which maybe is the reason you haven't put your parts in boxes yet? Another trick to keep parts off the floor is to add a lip to the edge of your desk. Some cardboard taped in place will work. It only needs to be 1.5 studs high to keep the majority of parts from falling by mistake.

If you prefer dark mode, just use dark reader. For me, the unread threads are a little easier to identify with it. Up from (IMO) easy to identify to completely clear. The other thing could be to retrain yourself to look at the gear icon, I find that very helpful.

Thats really clever, and I think it sounds fun too!

Thank you very much! Yes, the spring loaded doors are a must have for me now. The body isn't removable, because A. that would be worse for strength (it rolled a lot of times so I'm glad it was strong) and B. I was feeling lazy. I haven't rebuilt it, and I dont intend to rebuild exactly this model ever again. I hope to improve the design in the future though.

The motors are hard-coupled, so it effectively has diff locks full time. Thanks for the praise!

Just over a week ago, I started working on a Land Rover. I posted about it in the Generic WIP/POC topic. A few days later, I finished it. So, as I said in my original post, it's based on Gyenesvi's 42177 C model. I saw it and just had to make one, but I didn't have the G500, oh no! I started on just the bodywork, with the intent of building a complete chassis underneath once I was happy with the look. Some WIP photos: Once I was done with the body, I took a short lived journey into making a brushless chassis for it, which didn't work out at all. The only photo I have of that is the axle the brushless motor snapped... But! Never give up! I started on a Buwizz powered chassis, knowing I could make one easily. I went for the most basic setup there is for 4 motors; 2 for the rear 2 wheels, and 2 for the front 2 wheels. The model weighed >2.1kg by the time I was done with it, ~1kg of which was the body alone. So this model needed a total of 10 springs for the suspension. Then, because there's nothing worse than your doors opening while driving, I added springs to the doors and rear door to keep them closed too. All up, this model used 13 shock absorbers! This build was a lot of fun, but as you'll see in the video, it there's a reason I say "was"... Thanks for taking the time to read my post, I'm happy to answer any questions I can. More photos/higher resolution photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/land-rover-defender

@Milan Maybe these topics should be merged?

We're off topic now, but I'll say this much: I think I got my brushless setup for around the same price as a buwizz 3 unit, give or take a bit.

;) come to the dark side, we have more range than you have space to play with Hopefully buwizz 4 uses proper radio control.

Interesting to see different angles. From overhead, it looks like a brick, I really dont like that. The sides are too flat, not curved like I expected. Otherwise it looks fine, I guess.