Aurorasaurus

Thank you! The space in the trunk looks good, I bet you could put a hamster in there ;) The speed in high gear is surprising as well, I think you made a good MOD. Maybe a photo of the front of the vehicle with the doors closed, from about the same angle as this photo. You can right click, or on browser hold, and open just the image in a new tab. Then you can copy the URL and paste it to embed. But this site has rules about image size, below 1000x1000 is the rule. If you upload your images to bricksafe, they have a handy option to open images in resized resolutions, which is perfect for eurobricks.

At least on my samsung phone, I can have two apps on the screen at the same time. Swipe up from the bottom to bring up the apps you have open, then hold press on the one you want to open over the other and drag it onto the the other app. It's a little weird but you'll get the hang of it. Regarding the model, it looks awesome! What motors are you using, and what are the gearbox ratios? A few more photos would be great.

The way I did it: Loosen the hex screw, then remove that little metal tab. Then use a 3d printed template (or something else, its not very important) to have a guide for where you want the shaft to come to. Then just put it in a vice and gently press the shaft until it goes to the length you want.

You should totally do it! I'd love to see how you tackle it.

As I mentioned a little bit ago, AWD is where I thought to take my brushless adventure next. So, here it is! Wheel hubs: I'm using custom wheel hubs, 3d printed from PLA and using a 15x21x4mm bearing. In the rear I have a simple design I'm sure I showed earlier here, with 2 degrees of negative camber. These ones have the bearings held in with glue. In the front I tried something else; the wheel hubs have no glue. The bearing is put inside the hub while it is printing, then the print continues and traps the bearing in. In theory, now the weak link is the 3d printed plastic. If/when the wheel hubs break, you can simply reprint them. Because there is no glue, the bearing will be easy to re-use. The front hubs have a high caster angle and 2 degrees of camber. STL files for the hubs: LEFT, RIGHT. Drivetrain: I'm using 2x metal differentials from ZENE. They make a funny noise but work flawlessly so far. Every part in the drivetrain that could melt has been replaced by parts with bearings in them. I'm using a 1400kv 10t a2212 brushless motor from aliexpress. I gear it down 12:36/1:3 for more torque, and then 16:16 to lower the drive axle for the front, just because of how I made the model. The metal differentials from ZENE apparently have a 1:1.6 ratio, so the overall ratio from the motor is around 1:5. This proves very effective at keeping the speed high while also providing enough torque to easily run on grass. For suspension, I have independent front suspension, and a rear 4 link live axle. The rear axle was very heavy, and very robust. It has angled drive elements in order to get more ground clearance in the rear. Here you can also see how I achieved caster angle at the front without tilting the suspension arms. Like all my models, this has problems. For this one, the front ground clearance simply isn't enough, and the springs come apart when you do jumps or whatever. I broke a few parts, but nothing major this time. To get the half red axle out of the metal diff, I used a small drill bit and then a screw, and then some pliers. Electronics: Hobbywing Quicrun 10bl60 ESC, Giantpower 1500mah 3s 60c LIPO, 1400kv 10t a2212 brushless motor, dumborc x6fg receiver and dumborc x6 transmitter, geekservo 360 2kg, generic battery buzzer from the RC store. More photos Feel free to ask any questions, but please bear in mind I have already disassembled this model.

Once again I'm complaining about performance... but this time it's definitely slower than before. Sometimes it will load just the text, I'm not sure how to call it. The text without the visuals or fonts or anything. I'm using Firefox, windows 11. However, on chrome, it loads significantly quicker. I guess this is what I get for using Firefox

You would hope so, it doesnt seem like a particularly difficult thing to design

I'm using firefox on android 14. Its the same on mobile data and on wifi, and now it seems faster. Perhaps it was just my network being slow at the time, which happens occasionally. Sorry for the confusion.

Today, I've been working on a Land Rover Defender. I've taken a lot of inspiration (copied ) Viktor's 42177 alt for the front end. Then I freestyled the rest. The doors are spring loaded so they wont come open on their own, but the hood is permanently shut as it is somewhat structural. I'm happy with the progress I made, given I only started ~18 hours ago. I plan to motorize it with RC electronics, but we'll see. There's some clear parts where I am lacking the correctly colored parts, but I've made sure that they are available in white where I've used these. The body weighs >750g already, this will be a very heavy model. More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/land-rover-defender/wip Thanks for reading!

A general observation: the site seems to load a bit slower on my phone than it did before? Maybe it's just my brain tricking me, maybe others can say?

Milan says the exact same thing to everyone who posts oversized images when he sees it. Upload the images to bricksafe, link a low res preview and have a link to the page with the full res images for people to click on. Sorry to hear about your bad experiences, sometimes that's just the way it goes.

I also use this extension, and with firefox on android it works just fine for me. I would definitely be willing to make some contributions. I've never noticed a flash on EB and it works fine on lego.com in my memory. The only thing it doesnt work nicely for is gmail, but you can easily stop it from running on gmail. It works visually but slows the site down enormously.

Maybe you can replace gears with a rubber band pulley system somewhere? Everything else is looking good to my eyes!

Does it really have to be bulky though? We've come a long way since 9v, there could easily be a non bulky solution, I'm sure of it. On the other hand, something like the old MacBook chargers where they magnetically attach would be worth the bulk to me.

Do you still have this? Roughly how many and what size do you think they were? I'm very curious about this, it seems like a great method for reducing friction.

If we are going to see a new electronic system, hopefully it has removable cables like the 9v system. With PF and PU, the cables break at the motor pretty easily, and if you dont have experience fixing them that can lead to a lot of waste, and a lot of replacements for TLG to send out. Maybe they're finally realising that?

Oh, makes sense. Thanks for the answer!

Its K1t, searching that online yields https://german.alibaba.com/product-detail/QXW-Original-IC-Chips-LMV821AICT-Operational-1601107496432.html, which says that the chip spec is LMV821AICT, whatever that is. Apparently its a general purpose amplifier.

Just to give my two cents: I thought kick was a pretty scummy company/platform? I wonder why cada chose to associate with them...

You can always take them off and clean it :) This looks like a huge project, I wont pretend I understand how you're doing it. Good luck and great work so far.

THIS. I didnt get what all the fuss was about til I used proper servos, now its honestly really unpleasant using the makeshift solutions lego has done in the past. They're cheap and precise and strong. Whats not to love?

I agree. Or with radio receivers, some of the chinese fake pf receivers use 2.4ghz, so there's no reason lego couldn't do the same.

Meshing gears along a half stud offset is quite tricky. Maybe you could use 32291, 69819, 63869, or 6536 with half bushes to get the offset to make some reinforced enough structure. Good luck with this project!

Impressive! It looks really polished, you used the available parts really really well. The use of wheel arches for the rear bodywork and under the front windshield is brilliant too. In my eyes it looks good from all the angles you showed. Great work!

I think its possible to semi permanently change soft hoses shapes by putting them in hot water. I saw someone else on the forum trying to do this to make a spring for a clock. Maybe this could work for your fenders? Overall, what a crazy build, it looks gigantic and super detailed, I'm really impressed with your dedication to realism.