Aurorasaurus

No idea, maybe you could figure it out based on the parts that go into the diff? They have a rectangle with two rounded sides for connecting to the diff gears. And I think we know the ratio is 1:1.6. But the biggest problem I see with making your own diff this way is the adaptors from lego to rc for powering the diff. Whats your plan for that?

Has anyone tried using the porsche hub with a heavier vehicle in the same chasiss setup? If the hub has enough torque to move ~300 more pieces, then its probably gonna be an rc set.

I'd argue that the old corvette is worse. But this is pretty bad. If I see it for cheap I might grab it for orange parts though.

Probably 1 big supercar and 1-2 F1 cars. It seems like lego has realised the benefit of selling a well known car over selling a new one, so now theres a lot of cars that they could make. A zonda could be cool, but a terrible choice for TLG, since the community has already made some incredible zonda mocs. I think it would be cool if they sold the F1 cars as a chassis set which had all the parts to replicate the different types of suspension the different teams use, and then body kits for each team. But I'm sure it would be a logistical nightmare.

It has 300 more pieces. I think it will be a 1:10 car like the peugot 9x8.

Maybe it will be a good size to play with the dump truck volvo set from a few years back. That feels like it would make sense.

Nice! I'm glad it helped you find the right fit. Maybe you should spend some time dialling in your ABS settings? I've never printed with it, is it really that much better than PLA+? Also it may be worth trying ASA instead of ABS for your next spool, apparently the smell is not as bad.

Have we ruled out the possibility of using the new porsche hub in the base for the tracks and superstructure, and a brand new different hub for the arm functions?

Maybe we will miss the position sensors or the "low prices" by inflationary standards. But I think the power of these motors is objectively lacking. I really hope the new sets have a new power system. Sadly it seems we may have to wait until later in the year for an rc set.

I find them most useful for making fenders! I find "Technic Beam 1 x 9 Bent (6 - 4) Thick" much more useful. Sometimes the 7-3 one is good if you're making an 11 7 9 pythagoras triangle and you want to use that to support the angle, and the other two wouldn't fit for some reason.

Thanks very much! What are the metal parts you're waiting on again? Threaded rods and U joints, iirc? I'm looking at getting an LED lightbar like for a proper rc car, and proper RC shocks. @Krzychups Did you fill your shocks with oil? Or were they fine without it. If they need oil I think it's not the solution for me at this time.

If its anything like the wrangler, the community will mod it a tonne. Awesome!

Thank you very much! The two parts are slightly joined together, too much for me to break apart by hand. I use some pliers and put the two ends in two opposite holes and then I am able to twist it free. At first it spins with some resistance but a drive later they spin just fine. This is probably close to the 6th actually distinct design. Fusion just ups the version number every time you save. I think there is a lot further to take this idea, since it's so easy to design and make new hubs this way. I've been toying with the idea of selling them, for as low of a price as I could while still taking a small profit, maybe 4 euro each. But I suspect the market for such a thing is tiny, and the shipping would be outrageous to the EU from NZ... Not to mention people seem to be more inclined to use RC wheels than lego wheels. I just have two buckets full of lego wheels so it makes sense for me.

That looks like a prime candidate for an RC set, if they stick to the image. Which they wont.

A sort of inverted version of this part. For mounting suspension arms and stuff. I know I can already have basically this part with 2 little connectors... but what about single part!

Clean! I think the look could be improved by increasing the width of the axles, more like 42069. But the functionality for this little model is impressive. Everyone seems to be making little models these days...

Hello friends! It had been a while since I made a brushless model, so I whipped up a quick chassis last night and had a little play. This model is using my newest design of wheel hubs, which are the same mounting points as the standard hubs found in 42077, 42096, 42156, and literally every 1:10 car. This means I can also use them as a replacement with less resistance on non brushless models. And a quick video of it in action: More about the wheel hubs: The idea with these hubs is that there is always a weak link, and its better if it is easy to repair. These hubs need no glue, and only 1 bearing. They print easily, and only break a bit if you drive the wheel into a signpost. Not that I'd ever do that, right!? Instead of needing to buy new bearings and more glue and dealing with that mess, you just reprint it when it breaks. This also means that you can really drive the models and not worry about breaking expensive parts. Perfect for me! Link for the STL for the front hub Link for the STL for the back hub .18mm layer height .2mm first layer 6 walls 90% support cubic infill PLA+ (but try other materials) pause at layer 106, then wait some time for the plastic to shrink slightly so the bearing goes in nicer, continue the print like normal I hope this helps someone out!

I thought those were prone to cracking and breaking? I guess 12t double bevel gear teeth arent particularly strong either though.

Impressive to fit such functionality into such a small model. Can you share a photo of the underside of the model? I'm guessing you're using 12t bevel gears and dual drivelines. Do the wheels come off? They appear to have no bushes keeping them on. Or maybe you tape-tricked them? I'm also really curious how robust it is, can you pick it up by the roof? Anyway, it looks nice quite cleverly constructed, well done.

I love this model, I think it is a great balance between price and performance, using accessible parts. How is the driveability with the CV joint in the steering train? Does the caster angle feel like its compensating for the U joint? Would you keep the caster angle and slight slop in the steering for the realism if you did it again?

I hope so, it would be useful if it was affordable. But I suspect C+ as we know it is dead and half way buried at this point.

2x5x11. Behind the cockpit.

I'm really impressed, the way it folds up made me think it was a spaceship for a second. The bodywork looks very clean, and yet I can see many functions. Playability and looks is a great combo. I think you should be proud of this one, I genuinely wouldn't know where to start on a model like this.

Amazing- thank you so much! Your results with the shield look amazing and give me a lot of hope.