Aurorasaurus

Take your time, I hope things are better now. Looks promising, but the video is private sadly. That prop must have a crazy amount of speed, straight from a 2200kv motor!? Crazy!

I see a lot of speculation about pneumatics, but is it possible that lego will stop making pneumatics? We seem to see a lot of problems with pneumatic parts, pumps not working after some time or whatever. I'm sure providing support to those people gets expensive for years and years after a sets release. I just don't think it makes sense to make more of something that seems to have such a high failure rate.

Thats a valid way to go about things, for sure. I wouldn't exactly say Sariel's book or the forum resolves all the problems though, there really is no substitute for experience. They are just tools to get you through those points where you feel like its impossible, or a way to get your base knowledge quicker. Anyway, I think we can all agree that if you like what you're doing, there's no need to change it, as the hobby is about having fun!

Really nice! I particularly like how sturdy it is, it seems to take a beating really well.

Thats right, if you couple the two, the rpm should be about the same as just 1, but the torque is doubled. As for sariels book, you may learn more by just experimenting... if you know what experiments to do! I'd highly recommend getting it, it'll save you a lot of time.

It was also in the gokart set, but I wish it was more common because it looks amazing.

My guess is something to do with knob gears

Please not more new incomplete colors...

Are the two outputs connected? Why not have the motors hard coupled together, and an axle going through the middle of them? As for capabilities offroad, it really depends. Some people can make extraordinary things with 2 L motors (Attika, look at his pickup trucks on yt) and some people opt for much more power. If you want a decent balance of speed and power, I'm sure it can be achieved with 2 L motors, just keep the weight down. Also, I think you might find Sariel's book on lego technic useful, as a good way to get all the basic knowledge you need coming into the hobby. Its outdated, we have better pieces now, but the principles are the same.

Has anybody really pushed 42160 wheel hubs to the limit? If so, how much rpm/km/h did it take to break them? I know they have an internal bearing from plastic, but is it good enough for really heavy use?

G wagen at least offers some playability value, mclaren does not.

Does anybody know of a good replacement for the 75mm spiky wheels from the ford raptor? I kinda accidentally made the rear tires of my brushless 42077 bald, so now I'm searching for a better replacement. I found some on aliexpress, the ones for rm8's baja truck, but I'm sceptical about their grip level. Judging by the page, these are 1.55" tires, which fit racing small rims (ones for 1:12 cars). Maybe its the wrong link?

I think keep the speed the same for indoor play, slower would be boring IMO. Maybe use an rc lipo instead, or a buwizz with current limits.

I've made 3 off-road racing vehicles, and they are all absolute joys to drive. The trophy truck, Hammerhead, has 4 buwizz motors and rwd, with a live axle at the rear and independent suspension at the front. The front suspension is slightly modified from Madoca's trophy truck, and the rear axle is modified from the big buwizz trophy truck. I have published free instructions for this model. The green buggy needs a name, it has rwd with 2 buwizz motors, and it is based on agrof's class 1 unlimited buggy. But it is a complete overhaul, the body is actually structural, so the whole model is very light and strong. The front suspension was also overhauled to have a second steering rack and a stronger setup overall. The blue rally car is 42077's body with a complete redesign of the chassis. It is powered by a brushless motor 1400kv and a 3s lipo, and is also rwd (to keep it slightly fairer compared to the other vehicles) I've also recently got a gimbal and a new phone, and started filming with a tripod rather than attaching a phone to my controller. Unfortunately, this makes most of the footage I got of the hammerhead in the past 4 months useless :/ I'm considering building the green buggy digitally so I can make instructions for it, but the rally car has too many specialised parts.

I like this more than I thought I would, nice work. How come the bits that go from the front spoiler under the wheels are so large? And what are they?

Probably to make it a little harder for the blades to fall off.

Ahh, that seems a lot more accurate. I always thought 1:1.6 was wrong.

No idea, maybe you could figure it out based on the parts that go into the diff? They have a rectangle with two rounded sides for connecting to the diff gears. And I think we know the ratio is 1:1.6. But the biggest problem I see with making your own diff this way is the adaptors from lego to rc for powering the diff. Whats your plan for that?

Has anyone tried using the porsche hub with a heavier vehicle in the same chasiss setup? If the hub has enough torque to move ~300 more pieces, then its probably gonna be an rc set.

I'd argue that the old corvette is worse. But this is pretty bad. If I see it for cheap I might grab it for orange parts though.

Probably 1 big supercar and 1-2 F1 cars. It seems like lego has realised the benefit of selling a well known car over selling a new one, so now theres a lot of cars that they could make. A zonda could be cool, but a terrible choice for TLG, since the community has already made some incredible zonda mocs. I think it would be cool if they sold the F1 cars as a chassis set which had all the parts to replicate the different types of suspension the different teams use, and then body kits for each team. But I'm sure it would be a logistical nightmare.

It has 300 more pieces. I think it will be a 1:10 car like the peugot 9x8.

Maybe it will be a good size to play with the dump truck volvo set from a few years back. That feels like it would make sense.

Nice! I'm glad it helped you find the right fit. Maybe you should spend some time dialling in your ABS settings? I've never printed with it, is it really that much better than PLA+? Also it may be worth trying ASA instead of ABS for your next spool, apparently the smell is not as bad.

Have we ruled out the possibility of using the new porsche hub in the base for the tracks and superstructure, and a brand new different hub for the arm functions?