Aurorasaurus

When on the desktop client, under some users names there is slightly lighter colored text, seemingly set however the user pleases. But I cant find an option to edit this on my profile. I've quickly skimmed the rank information topic and cant find anything glaringly obvious. I'd search it up, but I'm not sure what we call that text...

https://bricksafe.com/files/Aurorasaurus/miscellaneous/3d-print-tolerance-tester/tolerance tester.stl Here's a simple test piece I use for checking how different filaments tolerances are, this should be perfect for you. 0,9, 1, and 1,1 on the side are how deep the counterbore is. And the other numbers are the diameter of the pin hole.

5mm for pin holes, 6.2mm for the little counterbore or whatever it is, 1mm depth for that too. 8mm spacing between holes. Theres even a site for it: https://marian42.de/partdesigner/ That said, you should make a simple test piece to dial it in even more for your machine.

Oh, just one of english's many tricks, I thought it meant anything but still lego.. my bad :) Wow, thats very solid indeed. How would you say the strength of your models is in a bit of rough play? Light weight = less forces under its own propulsion, arguably more sturdy than big strong builds sometimes.

Hopefully this is the right topic for this: What are the internal rules that you have for yourself when you're building technic creations? Or maybe, what is your design philosophy? For me, the models I make are always play oriented, so being able to pick them up by the roof and shake them around and drop them without anything breaking is non negotiable.

I'd like to share a little something I've made on the weekend: A brushless trophy truck (chassis) Sorry about the black bars on the video, the google photos tool for adding videos together is very primitive and I didnt feel like turning my computer on and using DaVinci for a 30second clip I forgot to record in 1080p. This setup is: 1400kv 2212, hobbywing 10bl60 esc, dumborc x6fg, geekservo, 1500mah 3s lipo, metal differential from zene. This truck wont last much longer, it has a tendency to roll because of where I placed the esc and because it's quite narrow. The next one may also be AWD, but we'll see. Thanks for your time, and have a lovely day :)

While I would love good a trophy truck set too, I dont think we can trust lego to make a good one, so I'd honestly rather they left it to us. Not to mention 1:10 trophy trucks are nearly the size of 1:8 supercars. Source: I have two ~1:11 trucks atm and they take up a significant portion of my lego table.

@MisterCreators Custom MOCs This looks very promising, I would change is using an xt60 plug rather than a T plug, but that's really just personal preference. Also, I think (if its easy to do) simply having PWM ports is a better option than using an adapter.

Can you provide a link to this part? I dont know what you're talking about, it sounds interesting.

Camera stabiliser thingie Mic arm Flywheel nerf gun Car jack Filming backdrop Automatic windowblind opener Gridfinity part sorting system Auto rotating fan Claw machine Workshop scene

Whatever we get for the 50th anniversary, I really hope it's not another damn licensed car. For me, the most memorable sets I would want redone would be 42099, 9398, and 42069. I'm too young to remember the older Technic sets though, I'm sure there were some real treasures back then too. Or if they were catering specifically to me, they could do a rerun of 42077, with lots of different color variations.

IIRC Racingbrick did some tests and found that the XL motor is better at sustained loads than the L motor.

I think building it from angle connectors would be best, you cant guarantee the flex axle stays at the shape you want without more pieces holding it in place.

I don't think so. They've been phasing the powered up system out, and we haven't seen any leaks for patents for a new hub or anything. Like with the hub of the new porsche, we got some info about that a while in advance. I think it will just be some dumb car with an overcomplicated gearbox nobody will play with.

Wow, this is some really fun stuff to watch. The mechanisms are what I would have loved to make for my system builds as a kid. Good work showing the evolution and multiple designs, I liked that.

That's some impressive speed, would you be able to show us a video?

These look incredible, I wonder if they'll look so bright in real life.

If I recall correctly both versions slide smoothly, but I may be wrong.

Its very simple but recognizable, very elegant. Are you able to share more detailed photos of the drivetrain, possibly without wheels?

Merry Christmas everyone, thanks for a great year!

Thank you very much! Not that you'd believe it if you looked outside today... I have a draft version from the gathering group chat, so they are subject to change.

Tomorrow I will try film again, surprisingly the performance on the road isn't bad. But the model does flip over easily. About the tires, how would I pre-heat them? Thank you :) I switched the gears around in my mini racer this year, so yes, I will do that again to gain more control. Thank you! And yes, the flights are... unpleasant. But it was worth it this year. If I can afford to go again, I will.

In the past week or so, I've been working on a car for the 1:12 racers competition of next years Buwizz gathering. The rules state that each participants vehicle must have at least two of the following features: opening doors, working steering wheel, suspension, working fake engine. For a long time I struggled to pick what to build, I thought about a warthog from halo, because all wheel steering would give it good maneuverability. I also thought about an LMP1 car, but some tests found that neither of those were good options for me. Then, I was inspired by a rally version of a porsche 911 3.3. The building process started with the front axle, I wanted to have at least 2 studs of ground clearance so I could comfortably drive on grass or gravel. To do this, I decided to use part 2393 rather than part 48989. This allowed me an extra stud of ground clearance compared to the solution I used in my mini racer this year. The 9 module flip flop beam is still unreleased, and not added to LDD new parts yet, so I made my own one with this handy tool, then used LDD brick editor to add it to LDD. I have uploaded this file here, along with the 3d model I was working off in LDD. The steering rack is in front of the center of the front axle to keep the model as compact as possible, but unfortunately meant that the steering axle rotated in the opposite way to how the working steering wheel should. Luckily, the spacing between the axle for the steering wheel and the actual steering wheel was perfect for 4x 8t gears, meaning the steering wheel rotates the correct way. Next was the rear drive. I knew from my previous mini racer that 2 Buwizz motors would have plenty of torque, I previously geared up 2x from the slow output and had no issues. For this model, I chose a less extreme gear ratio because I wanted to have enough torque for light offroading, and with the higher weight and larger wheels I needed a lower rpm. I settled on a 20:16 ratio from the fast output. This gives me, theoretically, over 3000rpm at the wheels. I positioned the motors so that the rear part where you can see the actual motor is in roughly the same spot as the engine in the real car. This is also good for the weight distribution, as in my previous mini racer, I suffered from a lack of grip at the rear wheels for the huge amount of power I was putting down. Then, chronologically, I added the working steering wheel, and seats. Because of the 3d model I imported, I was able to place the seats and steering wheel almost exactly where they should go in the real car. Some simple chassis reinforcement followed, and then I assembled it in real life and did a test drive: At that point, I was happy with the performance, so I kept building the bodywork. I struggled for some time with the hood; the real car has a tapered hood but a straight hood was easier to make with lego and looked better. I would like to thank @N1K0L4, @Alex Ilea and @Zerobricks for helping me with that decision. The next interesting thing I designed for this model was the front bumper. It is mounted to two rubber parts so that it actually functions to absorb some impact. After the bumper the next interesting part of the build was the doors, which have a bi-stable mechanism to keep them closed while driving. This also fulfills the requirement of at least two of the listed functions. And so, after making the trunk openable, it was all done, and time for a test drive. And that went pretty bad. So I've decoupled the rear wheels, they now run independent of each other. This will probably kill the performance on grass, but fix the performance on other surfaces... right? Anyway, I wrote all of this before finding out it drove poorly, and I'm not just going to delete it all. I'd be glad to receive any suggestions, I clearly need some help... More photos + files download: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/rally-porsche-1224

I have never wanted to build an alternate model so much! This model is just fantastic, the functionality is outstanding, and the execution of all the functions is flawless in my eyes. And the way you presented all the details makes it so easy to understand, seriously good work.