Aurorasaurus

Hopefully this silly little build will put a smile on someone's face :)

This is a nice, elegant fix. Good work!

Nope :( I tried that and was honestly confused why they didnt make it work with it.

I used them on a buwizz motor powered vehicle, they add more resistance than I liked. I also managed to melt a small turntable with buwizz motors once. You will need lubricant on these, and then they will turn smoother but with a different kind of resistance. But I think they'll be strong enough for brushless models. Maybe you can, I havent tried this.

I have used a vice and press fit gears onto them, if you have the appropriate metal gear. But if you want to attach Lego gears, I advise you to glue a 2L axle connector to the shaft. But every pin hole your moving axles go through will need bearings or it will melt. I like this, the use of a smaller servo for the diff lock is nice too. And the snow is so beautiful. Like this, 6 pins can be used to hold the wheel, rather than the 3 you find on Lego wheel hubs. Using 6 pins, I have not had my wheels come off once, even in a 37km/h crash. You can connect a planetary wheel hub and then use pulley wheel to get 5.4x reduction, with the strength of injection moulded inner gears. After that, maybe you can use planetary wheel hubs again at the wheels. You can also use the internal reduction from a fake PF XL motor and a 3d printed part, with a metal gear, to get 37x reduction from the output of your A2212. I posted about this earlier in the topic.

Do you mean on both sides? If I understand correctly, this gearbox is reinforced on both sides, so shouldnt have too much of a skipping problem?

Thank you, and thanks Peppermint!

I think its for attaching a towball too, then using a 9L link for pull/pushrod suspension. I think the 3L suspension arm with towball has an axle hole on it to connect to the really long wishbones and use conventional hubs. The spacing is right, I think.

Yes.

The yellow diff is okay, but I managed to skip teeth using the yellow diff, which is why I think metal diffs, or 3d printed diffs which you replace constantly, are the only way. Of course if you had a lower power setup, the lego diffs are okay. I'm going to find out in the next little while. I need to order more bearings so I have enough to experiment with. On another note, I've been using 5mm id 8mm od 2.5mm depth bearings, they are fine for lego. I put one on either side of each pinhole, so 2 per stud. They are cheap. If you mean just a series of gears for getting reduction, I've found normal lego gears are well up to the task, as long as you use bearings and lubrication. I broke my wheel hubs and still never skipped gears, in my trophy truck. But if you mean changeable gears, I think that is a very different beast. The lego clutch parts are too weak for 2x pf xl motors in some cases, brushless would destroy them. Maybe some kind of classic heavy duty gearbox could be made to work. I'm looking forward to seeing what you have to say about those, wheel hubs are the number one problem stopping brushless lego from being actually viable in my eyes. I think our wheel hubs should connect to lego wheels, using 6 pins instead of 3.

Top right hand corner part could mean Lego is making a small live axle with planetary hubs. I really hope that part comes in good quantities in an affordable set. Bottom left seems like it might be useful in specific scenarios, top left could maybe also be useful in a live axle. But I honestly have no idea what the part in the bottom right is.

Reading through this topic I've seen a lot of us are using 3d printed parts to hold bearings. I've been trying to make wheel hubs with 3d prints and bearings and metal U joints, and gluing all the parts together. But now the glue on my wheel hubs broke. My friend suggested setting the bearing inside the hub while its printing, and I initially wrote this off, because the plastic itself would be the next easy thing to break. But then I thought about it some more, and realised that if we can find a strong enough material, it may be very possible to make wheel hubs this way. The only problem is finding what material to print in. I've used PETG and PLA, and neither is strong enough for really intensive applications. I'm aware of carbon fibre and glass reinforced filaments, but I think those only serve to be more rigid. Does anyone know if my understanding there is correct? Ideally, we need a material that is very strong even in very small areas, because of the limited size of a wheel hub. Anyway, I've rambled for long enough, heres how I broke my wheel hub:

They use LDD pro AFAIK, but I don't get why all bew parts aren't highlighted either, it seems like a simple way to make things better for most people. Maybe they're worried about colorblind accessibility or something? On another note, how hard/soft is the compound of the g500 tires? Are they actually suitable for offroad use?

Good for you! Thats quite an achievement, well done.

To be fair, they could just put a big pink highlight on the part to make it stand out. Or gray out the rest of the pieces applied beforehand, I believe I've seen some instructions that do that. But personally, colored pins make my life a lot easier, reverse engineering builds and organising parts.

Hm! Thanks for the explanation :)

Oh, I see. And yup, I meant the "Pushing some buttons" text. What's it called?

When on the desktop client, under some users names there is slightly lighter colored text, seemingly set however the user pleases. But I cant find an option to edit this on my profile. I've quickly skimmed the rank information topic and cant find anything glaringly obvious. I'd search it up, but I'm not sure what we call that text...

https://bricksafe.com/files/Aurorasaurus/miscellaneous/3d-print-tolerance-tester/tolerance tester.stl Here's a simple test piece I use for checking how different filaments tolerances are, this should be perfect for you. 0,9, 1, and 1,1 on the side are how deep the counterbore is. And the other numbers are the diameter of the pin hole.

5mm for pin holes, 6.2mm for the little counterbore or whatever it is, 1mm depth for that too. 8mm spacing between holes. Theres even a site for it: https://marian42.de/partdesigner/ That said, you should make a simple test piece to dial it in even more for your machine.

Oh, just one of english's many tricks, I thought it meant anything but still lego.. my bad :) Wow, thats very solid indeed. How would you say the strength of your models is in a bit of rough play? Light weight = less forces under its own propulsion, arguably more sturdy than big strong builds sometimes.

Hopefully this is the right topic for this: What are the internal rules that you have for yourself when you're building technic creations? Or maybe, what is your design philosophy? For me, the models I make are always play oriented, so being able to pick them up by the roof and shake them around and drop them without anything breaking is non negotiable.

I'd like to share a little something I've made on the weekend: A brushless trophy truck (chassis) Sorry about the black bars on the video, the google photos tool for adding videos together is very primitive and I didnt feel like turning my computer on and using DaVinci for a 30second clip I forgot to record in 1080p. This setup is: 1400kv 2212, hobbywing 10bl60 esc, dumborc x6fg, geekservo, 1500mah 3s lipo, metal differential from zene. This truck wont last much longer, it has a tendency to roll because of where I placed the esc and because it's quite narrow. The next one may also be AWD, but we'll see. Thanks for your time, and have a lovely day :)

While I would love good a trophy truck set too, I dont think we can trust lego to make a good one, so I'd honestly rather they left it to us. Not to mention 1:10 trophy trucks are nearly the size of 1:8 supercars. Source: I have two ~1:11 trucks atm and they take up a significant portion of my lego table.

@MisterCreators Custom MOCs This looks very promising, I would change is using an xt60 plug rather than a T plug, but that's really just personal preference. Also, I think (if its easy to do) simply having PWM ports is a better option than using an adapter.