Aurorasaurus

I kinda like it... maybe they could be used on a skateboard model or something. The colour sorta sparks my imagination, which I think is a really good thing. Damn is that set ever bright though...

Whats the differential? I will try look for the other gear on aliexpress.

I believe this should have a good amount of power. Do you mean 14:22 or 12:20? 12 and 22 do not mesh. Also, the hubs from zetros are planetary hubs, and the internal reduction is 1:5.4. Please let us know how it goes, this set has huge potential.

You can make it legally using 2 of this part and a 3L frictionless pin. I really like this, it seems promising.

This is super promising! Will you also make models for a version with 2 drive inputs for use with more wheels? It looks functional and strong, I like it. Are you using metal or CF axles? When I tried using my 1400kv motor with an XL motor planetary reduction thing, I snapped axles the moment I gave it full throttle. Or maybe you're running 2s and its not an issue? Well, I'm out of work, so I can spend a lot more time on lego at the moment while I search for a job. I'm glad you like seeing what I'm making, that makes me feel better about putting the time in to publish things. I took apart the brushless rally car after sending it 2 meters in the air at a skate park... As they say, its not the fall that kills you, its the sudden stop at the end... Worth it :D Also, I drove this model on asphalt a bit, and after a little while I noticed less and less launch speed. I was a bit confused until I saw the tires. The rear ones had lost a lot of tread! So I've ordered some more RC tires that are approximately the same size, because I'm not done with this idea yet.

21355 https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?O=21355-1#T=S&O={"iconly":0}

Take your time, I hope things are better now. Looks promising, but the video is private sadly. That prop must have a crazy amount of speed, straight from a 2200kv motor!? Crazy!

I see a lot of speculation about pneumatics, but is it possible that lego will stop making pneumatics? We seem to see a lot of problems with pneumatic parts, pumps not working after some time or whatever. I'm sure providing support to those people gets expensive for years and years after a sets release. I just don't think it makes sense to make more of something that seems to have such a high failure rate.

Thats a valid way to go about things, for sure. I wouldn't exactly say Sariel's book or the forum resolves all the problems though, there really is no substitute for experience. They are just tools to get you through those points where you feel like its impossible, or a way to get your base knowledge quicker. Anyway, I think we can all agree that if you like what you're doing, there's no need to change it, as the hobby is about having fun!

Really nice! I particularly like how sturdy it is, it seems to take a beating really well.

Thats right, if you couple the two, the rpm should be about the same as just 1, but the torque is doubled. As for sariels book, you may learn more by just experimenting... if you know what experiments to do! I'd highly recommend getting it, it'll save you a lot of time.

It was also in the gokart set, but I wish it was more common because it looks amazing.

My guess is something to do with knob gears

Please not more new incomplete colors...

Are the two outputs connected? Why not have the motors hard coupled together, and an axle going through the middle of them? As for capabilities offroad, it really depends. Some people can make extraordinary things with 2 L motors (Attika, look at his pickup trucks on yt) and some people opt for much more power. If you want a decent balance of speed and power, I'm sure it can be achieved with 2 L motors, just keep the weight down. Also, I think you might find Sariel's book on lego technic useful, as a good way to get all the basic knowledge you need coming into the hobby. Its outdated, we have better pieces now, but the principles are the same.

Has anybody really pushed 42160 wheel hubs to the limit? If so, how much rpm/km/h did it take to break them? I know they have an internal bearing from plastic, but is it good enough for really heavy use?

G wagen at least offers some playability value, mclaren does not.

Does anybody know of a good replacement for the 75mm spiky wheels from the ford raptor? I kinda accidentally made the rear tires of my brushless 42077 bald, so now I'm searching for a better replacement. I found some on aliexpress, the ones for rm8's baja truck, but I'm sceptical about their grip level. Judging by the page, these are 1.55" tires, which fit racing small rims (ones for 1:12 cars). Maybe its the wrong link?

I think keep the speed the same for indoor play, slower would be boring IMO. Maybe use an rc lipo instead, or a buwizz with current limits.

I've made 3 off-road racing vehicles, and they are all absolute joys to drive. The trophy truck, Hammerhead, has 4 buwizz motors and rwd, with a live axle at the rear and independent suspension at the front. The front suspension is slightly modified from Madoca's trophy truck, and the rear axle is modified from the big buwizz trophy truck. I have published free instructions for this model. The green buggy needs a name, it has rwd with 2 buwizz motors, and it is based on agrof's class 1 unlimited buggy. But it is a complete overhaul, the body is actually structural, so the whole model is very light and strong. The front suspension was also overhauled to have a second steering rack and a stronger setup overall. The blue rally car is 42077's body with a complete redesign of the chassis. It is powered by a brushless motor 1400kv and a 3s lipo, and is also rwd (to keep it slightly fairer compared to the other vehicles) I've also recently got a gimbal and a new phone, and started filming with a tripod rather than attaching a phone to my controller. Unfortunately, this makes most of the footage I got of the hammerhead in the past 4 months useless :/ I'm considering building the green buggy digitally so I can make instructions for it, but the rally car has too many specialised parts.

I like this more than I thought I would, nice work. How come the bits that go from the front spoiler under the wheels are so large? And what are they?

Probably to make it a little harder for the blades to fall off.

Ahh, that seems a lot more accurate. I always thought 1:1.6 was wrong.

No idea, maybe you could figure it out based on the parts that go into the diff? They have a rectangle with two rounded sides for connecting to the diff gears. And I think we know the ratio is 1:1.6. But the biggest problem I see with making your own diff this way is the adaptors from lego to rc for powering the diff. Whats your plan for that?

Has anyone tried using the porsche hub with a heavier vehicle in the same chasiss setup? If the hub has enough torque to move ~300 more pieces, then its probably gonna be an rc set.